This is a channel for DIY boat and fiberglass people who are looking to stay on a budget. Not to say any fiberglass work is cheap, but working efficiently and with your own 2 hands can help keep costs under control.
I'll be showcasing various projects. I'll also be posting occasional videos on my preferences for different processes, as well as tips and tricks that I've learned over the years through trial and error.
Hey. I'm looking into getting one. Did you have any issues at all, with the unit tipping? That seems to be the only real concern. Especially on grass and/or inclines.
@boilk Nope. When pulling the trailer you keep pressure on the handle so it doesn't wheelie. When pushing the trailer I can do it with 2 fingers. No problem.
Here is a crazy idea. I always wanted to put an old Volkswagen bus buddy on a small boat. Like a 25 foot Carolina skiff. That would make a really cool little houseboat.
That would last maybe a few months before starting rust away in the salt. Plus the VW bodies are much heavier then a typical cabin. I'm sure a carolina skiff could float it, but it's not how I would go about it.
This is a tragic ending, for a cute houseboat ! I was doing up a 26" mono hull, fixed keel yacht. I've finished it now. It took me 2 years, working 2 part-time jobs, to get the money for repairs to complete this project. I live in Australia. If I'd found 1 of these 'Hobo' houseboats, I would've bought it, instead of a yacht. There was 1 of these trailerable houseboats, (very much like yours,)a few years ago. It was used as a 'background prop', in a boatyard, in an Australian tv series. I don't know where it ended up !? It wasn't in series 2 of this tv series. I enjoyed your video, even though it was sad ! 😥
Likely good bones, but that will depend on what you plan to do with it! It is unique and will turn heads amongst the boating crowd. I'd use it as a dockside writing cabin trimmed out in a manly motif. 🤪 Have fun stripping the interior and playing with ideas for setting it up the way that will work best for you! Welcome afloat!
Very informative and well prepared video. Your video covered a lot of missing information not supplied by the sellers - so anyone wanting to purchase one of these will be able to see much better what they are getting including getting a peek at the battery and electronics box. Thank you for posting this video.
I think the weak point of these old boats is that the wood Stringers that run the length of the boats and give the hull it's strength, rot within a layer of fiberglass cloth. So what looks sound is just a few layers of cloth wrapped around the rotten wood stringers. With that reality I wonder what the structural wood core inside the boat is like were the EYE HOOK is supported from within the hull , that was a lot of force being applied to an old rotten piece of wood(??). It will be interesting to see how you deal with replacing the stringers wood core. Cut them out flush with the hull and glass incase the new wood, or cut top of glass, pick the wood out and drop new wood into the cavity and glass over the top.
There are no stringers. These boats are built more like a sailboat, where they get supported by the cored hull from the middle. There's also no wood up by the bow eye. As you'll see soon it's a moot point cause I won't be dealing with any of it soon.
This guy shouldn’t be restoring any boats. I see he has had it for 5 months and done videos on nothing to Do with restoring but instead breaking Chinease winches on the wrong trailer. In no world does an original trailer have a boat with no rollers and overhang.
Yep, bought it a while back, but the warehouse didn't become available until recently. You apparently have no clue about these boats or the trailers. This trailer is original and designed specifically for this boat by Pawson. What you fail to realize is this isn't designed like a typical powerboat, but more like a sailboat. It was designed to be supported by the keel runners and weight balanced towards the center since it is not a planing hull. The transom only supported a 20hp 2 stroke motor max when new, so there was no significant weight, much like a typical sailboat. Had the core of the hull and transom not rotted, you know after 57 years, then it would have been fine. If you are this upset about watching videos where you clearly didn't pay attention to the multi year timeline I laid out, or read the descriptions, you are really gonna be mad with the next one, lol. BTW, they have great resources, like therapy and medication, available for people like you that struggle with such anger issues. I hope you get the help you need.
For future reference, things like ratchets, winches, come alongs, etc, are designed to be used with moderate effort. If you're applying lots of force, it's because you're overloading the tool.
That is incorrect. I have used many, and never had one failed like this. Force is relative to the gear ratio and the rating. If you have a 4:1 system that is rated at 1000lbs then you will have to put all your weight behind it. That's why they make 2 speed winches with 8:1 and 16:1 ratios. If you are near capacity, then you will still need a significant effort, but that doesn't mean the system is overloaded. They are designed and engineered with ratings for a reason. Both the winches were advertised at the same load raring. The second winch did it no problem because it is actually engineered to a 3200lbs standard. The first one I found out actually wasn't rated, only the strap was.
Should you have used more cloth layers, and then flair out at the final finish.? I just do not see strength in the filler mater used with a light cloth layer. The recommended repair is to use a 12:1 taper slope. and fill the hole completely with cloth/ biaxial layers. each layer would overlap the prior layer until the complete void is filled. Under shock loads( Pounding waves) I would be concerned about your large plug breaking down. Just more layers as fillers have low strength compared to filler material. Some people start with smallest diameter first, some with larger first in the over laps. But overlap with multiple layers than finish will flaring compounds. Your stage 2 was great, but then grind out to the 12:1 taper and fill with layers. Enjoy your videos.
You may disagree, but I would put money on that repair lasting the remainder of it's life. The 8:1 and 12:1 taper methods were recommended back in the day for polyester resin. I repaired it using epoxy which you can get away with a much less taper because it is stronger. The filler is a structural filler I make that is fiber reinforced. As I explained in the video, I repaired it this way because I couldn't cut away or grind it back anymore without getting into the chase and bulkhead right above it. Considering the Flex Seal held on and functioned ok for the last year I think this is a marked upgrade from that. Remember this is a flats boat, and only being used on calm lakes. Thanks for watching.
Was not aware of the epoxy vrs polyester taper methods. In the end as you sated the location of use has a lot to do with the strength required, Waves that break the backs of Ocean going cargo ships is a concern where I live, storms develop when you least expect them.@@GhettoGlasserFL
Nice video! After watching your video i have decided I'm going to purchase one. My boat and trailer is 2300lbs. Now i have to decide between the 3600 or the 2800. Thanks!
I got it from woot.com (amazon), but it's sold out now. They do have the smaller one pretty cheap right now if it will work for you. tools.woot.com/offers/superhandy-trailer-dolly-electric-power-2800lbs-max-4
Does anyone know if the 2800# model will be able to move a 4000 pound ultra lite camping trailer? Thanks in advance and any helpful info is appreciated.
In 1978, I bought a HOBO from a marina in Maryland, the owners wife had an 75hp Merk on it with a blown head, paid $4,000 for it, traded the Merc for a 15HP Johnson. I did this for a homeless Vietnam Vet to live in. Put a Dikerson propane heater in. He was drunk most of the time and never left the dock. The Marina owner hired him as a yard dog and everybody gave him a few bucks for cleaning bottoms and waxing. "Snake passed away a few years later from liver failure, don't know what happened to the boat after that as I moved away. Great little boat. Keep me posted, Cap'n Rick Port of Lewes, DE
Take your licking and get rid of it. Sell it as is to the first person with cash. Trade it for a 4wheeler or dirt bike. move on. It isn't really that cool anyway. It's cool, just not that cool.
You have to know that doing that it would be like pulling a bandage on a much bigger problem once the wood between the wall get wet it would just start rotten away I had 1978 boat and it would hit the wall and it would sound like a change machine 😅so it would never be the same as it was why not just redo the whole bottom of the boat and then using kevlar or carbon fiber to make a real difference to the haul 😂it would just keep causing more problems later on it looks good but mechanically speaking it would have been better to have done the complete process
I don't understand what you are talking about, there's no wood in the hull of the boat. It's straight fiberglass. The transom and decks have plywood coring, but that's not where the damage is. This repair will outlive the life of this boat. I think you missed the previous videos that explain more of what I did and why.
@@GhettoGlasserFL ... I'm a total amateur. But I've had a few old old boats, including thru hurricanes, and wow resin is tough. I did patch a ripped off cleat by layers of pure resin that ended up inch thick and it's held up thru year of use, I could see an inch down till it clouded up after months.. I have never heard resin Needs fiberglass, at most fiberglass lets the resin layer be thinner. I sorta think resin alone is super tough, our brains just cant easily adjust to how strong. Our brains think in terms of wood and screws, but resin is closer to steel than that. Would one doubt the strength of a quarter inch of steel?. PLUS I ADMIT RESIN HI COST may be a hurdle, what good is agreeing a half inch of resin laid down in 10 tenthinch layers is strong enough if it costs $5k+? Is cost why they use chopped up fiberglass, not cuz resin alone wouldnt be enough.. Soooooooo, it's wild but wouldnt pressure washing inside and gutting it then laying on resin layers till halfinch thick on inside be fast option? Brute force use of lots of good materials can work.
Resin alone is extremely brittle. I've done many sample tests. Laying thick unsupported resin is a bad idea as it has little flexural strength and prone to cracking. A composite made of fiberglass and resin is many times stronger then the resin alone. No offense but there's a reason no one builds that way. It would be much more expensive, very heavy, and unable to take and dynamic flex.
First cut old transom off back saving fiberglass layer, Then add two layers of 3/4" plywood to the existing final two/three feet inside base of the rear hull. screws to existing runner's (if solid???). then add 2"x2" hardwood along base of transom to attach two layers of new 3/4"plywood transom. Glass old transom to the new wood structure. glass over all inside wood to seal from rot. Fabricate new steel brackets to support base wood to transom and attach new motor mounts to these brackets. (maybe four brackets?) When attaching old fiberglass panels to old fiberglass hull use a 1 in 12 slope angle with layers of cloth to spread the loads. This would make a great Lopper boat to do the lop from Great Lakes down the Mississippi to Gulf then around Florida up the intercoastal waterway, New York to Montreal, Up the Saint Lawrence, Trent waterway and back to starting point. All with a 6 horse sipping gas at a quart an hour.
Thanks, I already have a plan I'm working on. I'm actually going to extend the hull a few feet to make it more like the later models. They abandoned the motor bracket idea after the first year of production. There's some confusion about the runners and general construction. These boats did not have stringers, There's literally nothing there, and whatever coring it did have is shot. Stay tuned, lots of work coming ahead!.
Correct, the transom must be supported else a hook will form. Fortunately this boat was never intended to plane, thus the hook isn't going to prevent this. It has an interesting curved transom, thus I assume it's not a plywood layup. Oh, and the trailer bunks should be directly under the stringers, for support.
Well that's the thing. The transom isn't supposted to have a curve, it was plywood cored from what I can tell so far, and these boats didn't have stringers. Later versions had floor supports that ran across the mid section of the hull between the runners, but no stringers. I have a plan to help remedy that. Thanks for watching!
I am keen to see any methods of sanding these fillets, particularly where 3 fillets come together at the inside intersection of 3 planes. Also of interest is the appropriate radius sizing for various applications. Liked and subbed. Thanks for posting.
Poor design. Any boat must be designed so that all the weight of the boat can rest completely on the keel or keels. All the motor yachts and sailboats you see in the marina yard are not supported by those props along their sides, that's just proping the boat upright. The keel is carrying all the weight.
Not sure I understand the criticism. The boat is designed to rest on the keel runners. The way it's designed it is supposed to sit somewhat level if the tide goes out. The problem is the boat is old and in bad shape. In 1967 I'm sure it was rock solid. Hopefully I'll be able to not only restore it, but improve on the original design.
I am curious to see if the structural damages are financially fixable, since it does look like all the interior wood reinforcement are more or less gone. Keep posting.
I'm the guy mentioned in the video. You know, the third step-cousin? I started doing fiberglass in 1972, making moulds and parts for boats, cars and aircraft, also repairs of course. Admittedly I haven't done much in the last 30 years, but the brush is my go-to. That said, seeing is believing; I'll definitely give this a whirl on the project car. Great video, short, to the point and no extraneous BS. Oh yeah, and no stupid music! Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the support! My goal with all my videos is to try and keep them under 5 minutes, maybe a max of 7 minutes for really involved stuff. Good luck on your projects.
Good luck and I'm glad you are saving another Hobo! I spent 1200 hrs over 2-1/2yrs on mine. 1971 Pamco Hobo built Wiarton ON, sn 8187, open back Fisherman style, Wiscot trailer. Had registration issues with boat and trailer also but was resolved.
@@GhettoGlasserFL Or move axle perches back if possible if you can figure your new balance point Even changing to a heavier 4 stroke motor has changed my balance somewhat and I might move my keel "stops" ahead a bit on my trailer.
@@oldhobo5610 This is still the original trailer from 1967. While I think it's still easily restored, it's very lightweight and a bit short for the hull as it sits now. I like my boats to have their transom supported.
