@timw2313 hello. No. I also tried the 3 ignition cycles for 10 minutes and it never went away. I ended up buying a scantool to erase the code and it didn't come back.
Did a great job !! I cant understand why the instructions and lack of pics are so bad?? If i didnt have these videos to watch i would still be trying to figure this out👍👍
I am rebuilding the exact same bike and I have everything back together and it doesn’t turn over when I try to start it. I was able to get it started by bypassing the starter relay and jumping the battery, I am going to order a new starter and hope that does the trick for my bike as well
@timw2313 if it started by bypassing the starter relay then the starter isn't the problem. Check fuses first then check connection to the starter relay.
@timw2313 check power to the relay first. The connector should have power and ground when the start switch is pushed. If you don't have power to the relay, then you need to look at kill switch and / or kick stand switch, etc
Do you remember what clear hose you connected at 34:00 is? The only clear hose I have is the one coming out of my airbox, do you remember if it’s that?
@@haya262000man, you made lifting the new engine in look easy! I’m working on this same project now and I am struggling with lifting the new engine in, it does not stay balanced on my floor jack at all. I am doing this solo as well
@timw2313 the hardest part is balancing the engine on the jack while you maneuver it up. It's not bad if you have a second person helping you. Hydraulic jack does help if its just you. If you don't have a jack then 2 people can lift it in place while a 3rd person puts the mounting bolts in.
thanks for the plug info. I've been on the fence about one of these but they are on clearance right now for $69.97 so I think I'll bite the bullet. I want it for cement work for small projects and get rid of my old barrel type mixer hoping this works out.
@UnkleAL1962 thank you for the comment. For that price grab it quick. I use this mixer daily for concrete mixing. It is the strongest one I've used to date. It can mix a full bucket of concrete. Has a lot of torque.
@@haya262000 snagged it. It was the last one. I asked the guy if they were discontinuing and he said it means they will probably be replacing it with a new model. It works out of the box but I'll still change the plug.
The ECU has probably been flashed and he’s probably running some aftermarket Cams the bolt was probably loose. How’s the valve shims they should be fine . The only way to tell if the ECU‘s been flashed is to literally looked at it on the computer even then I’m not even sure if you can pretty sure you’d be able to if you hook it up to the computer to look at the Maps values.
@@haya262000 I love the Hayabusa. I’ve got a 2003 GSXR 1000. I’ve been working on got the manual for it , fast bike not as fast as the busa thought . The older 2003 back are a lot easier to work on they don’t have all the technology, sensors for everything they are nightmares . lol for me anyways, I prefer to control the bike not a computer
I have a 2002 Hayabusa. The first generation Hayabusas' are the fastest. That explains why your 03 is so fast. My ECU was flashed so it will definitely outrun time lol.
@truckdriver_8469 thanks. My other 2003 is in stock form and the first time I took out this copper 2003 I was shocked at the acceleration. It definitely surprised me.
Thanks. In my case I had no choice but to replace the driveshaft as it was damaged. The smaller diameter driveshaft and the 3/4" bump stop spacers have solved the issue.
@deanwamboldt5477 I'll check mine for a part number. Harbor freight changed out all there tools a couple of years ago so it might not be sold there anymore. I bought mine 8 years ago
@deanwamboldt5477 mine is an autocraft 4" 2 jaw puller. I tried to find it on Google but nothing came up. It looks like Amazon and Walmart have a similar one.
The 1.8 is a very reliable engine. It's only downfall is it has a timing belt. The 1.4 is a great little economy engine. Displacement is key. It will cost quite a bit of money to make the little 1.4 powerful. In its stock form the little turbo only makes low end torque. The 1.4 does have some reliability issues as well.
I inspected the transmission when the clutch cover and the oil pan was removed. I didn't see anything broken. The bike does shift in all 6 gears and I noticed yesterday when I put it in first gear i was able to push it. I had the clutch cover off at this time and the clutch pressure plate is sticking out farther than the basket. I watched a bunch of other gen 1 busa clutch videos and that's when I noticed the pusher rod behind the pressure plate sits flush to the shaft whereas my pusher rod sticks out a good 1". I think it has to be a seized slave cylinder. Ill check on it today and know for sure.
@@haya262000it has to be a stuck slave cylinder...one thing possible is, that the old clutch was driven past its wear out limit, allowing the push rod of the slave cylinder to extend past its normal operation range
@@therovingrobin5938 it's possible. The slave still pushes out and retracts when using the clutch lever. All the clutch parts have been replaced as it looks like the previous clutch basket grenaded itself. I'm going to remove the slave cylinder and inspect it.
@haya262000 sad story lol bought the bike and my buddy dropped it 15 min later. Took it to my mechanic put new tires new battery and fixed the handle bar and side pegs etc. Bought the fairings took the bike to a friend he took the bike apart and the oem and aftermarket parts were in a storage that he stopped paying for. Now I can't even get the bike to start just cranks over and doesn't start. Thinking maybe something was taken off 🤔 like the thing that goes under the seat. Black square box. But I don't think it would make sense for me to send the bike to Chicago since I live in LA.
@brandonnakoud9265 yes that would be expensive. Check the basics so you can narrow the issue down. It definitely won't start without the ecm. You need fuel, spark and compression.
To avoid any confusion on the conical washer install. The concave side of the washer installs toward the clutch basket side and the convex side of the washer points toward the pressure plate side. Also I messed up the valve lash spec. Intake and exhaust lash have different specs. I didn't notice this until I flipped the page in the manual. The intake valve lash spec is .004 - .007 and the exhaust lash spec is 008 - .012. The good news is the exhaust cam is in spec and no adjustment is needed. Time to put it back in the frame on the next video.
Hello. You should see the previous videos on my channel. I haven't worked on it in a month as I have to get this busa up and running so I can make room. I should have another video on the superhawk turbo build this week. Thank you
Any luck on tearing down the old engine? Hopefully the cylinders aren't bad. The crank and pistons are probably a loss but the top end, oil pump, water pump, and transmission will hopefully help cover the engine cost. If you ever need to swap another engine, before installing it, pull the plugs and put it in gear. You can then use a chain on the sprocket to rotate the engine.
Hello. Ill have a video of the old engine teardown as soon as I'm done with the remaining bike repairs. I'm still waiting on parts to finish it up. I'm hoping I can salvage at least the head and transmission to resell to get some money back. Please like and subscribe.
I have OBS Ford F250 4x4 but I have not bought the kit yet. I saw your other video where you had it touching the driveshaft. I know it is so frustrating. You would think this should be a simple bolt on and go kit but you really took this on the chin really hard especially when you depend on the truck to make your living and you need a daily driver. Best wishes and good luck!!!
Thanks for admitting and showing your mistakes. You are actually helping and saving us some time and money. I am so sorry that you are having issues but you did well to push the envelope. The dump kit can lift more weight than the truck was designed to carry but we are all guilty of trying to get the most out of our trucks and sometimes we go a little too far. Even if you beef up the suspension, the rear axle bearings and differential will give out under load in the road. Been there. Done that. Got the tee shirt and it was full of holes...
Thank you. I did this to my 1500 because I wanted to take on more small jobs as a concrete contractor. My 1500 chassis truck can handle up to 1 yard of broken concrete or gravel. This is about 3k lbs of weight. My truck is definitely over weight as it is only designed for 2k lbs of cargo weight but it works fine. The kit can lift 4k lbs so it can handle more but the limitation is my trucks 1500 chassis. I did this to my 1500 truck because of fuel savings as it is the v6 version that uses cheaper e85 and the fact that I use my truck daily for business as well without needing to use the dump bed. I am creating another video soon to show positives and issues I've had after 1 year of use.
Thanks for the vid. Just did this on my own machine. From what I can tell though there was no point in using valve grinding compound on the tapered part. From what I saw it is just a bearing spacer, and that is exactly what they call it in the manual. It doesn’t make the fit any tighter on the bearings nor the hub.
Thanks for reaching out. Yes the spacer seats on the taper between the 2 bearings. I stated the lapping wasn't required but on my machine the taper was rusted/corroded. I did it to clean up the taper
@@haya262000 Yes mine was the exact same way. I believe that the fit is pretty loose which allows it to corrode. After installing my 2 new bearings, the spacer in the middle kind of floats around between the two bearings. Nothing really holds it in place. The reason it's tapered is because the bearings are different sizes. I don't really see the point of having the spacer at all, but maybe I'm missing something. The bearings cannot be pushed closed together as they are seated on the shoulders in the hub itself.
Finally going to be ordering my kit, wish I ordered it sooner. With this record high inflation the price of the kit has gone up a lot. One main concern I had was the weight in the bed. I'm going to reinforce the bed and for some reason if the kit is struggling to lift the load I will put my Load Handler back on ( conveyor belt truck bed unloader) to unload some weight, but hopefully it will be strong enough. I'm unloading wood chips and the box that's on top of the truck bed. Well also the truck bed too. Hopefully it will be ok. Hope to see you unloading the concrete in the next video.
Yes they went up 400 when I bought mine in October 2022. I had some issues with mine. I'm in the process of making a video on it. As far as weight, I had 1 yard of gravel (~3000 lbs) in my bed and it lifted just fine. My truck is a 1500 so it's only rated at 1900 lbs capacity. This is far from the 4000 lbs Rating of the scissor lift cylinder. I was going to reinforce my bed as well but decided not to when it dumped the 3k lbs of gravel with no issue.
Thanks for the video. I'm getting ready to order my kit here soon. Been checking out everyone's videos on the tips ,tricks, issues. Trying to save some time and get it done right the first time. Hope to see some videos of it in action.
Hello. I'm currently re-installing my hitch. Requires bumper modification. I'll make a video on it. My concrete season is starting now so I'll have some videos of it in action soon. I still have to add some angle iron for extra bed support. I'll start that if the weather ever gets better.
@@haya262000 my concern is being able to get my hitch system on and still clearing the tilt and hinges when dumping. I don't necessarily need the bumper back on even though it would look better. I have to pull a chipper that's little over 5000 pounds.
@Anything uploads since the bed has to be moved back 1 inch the hitch has a little more clearance. I am trimming back my bumper a little to allow the bed to tilt. It looks odd with the bumper being trimmed as you can see the spare wheel through the trimmed bumper but it looks much better with the bumper than without. A lot of videos with these kits without the hitches or without the bumper. In my case I need my hitch but I want to keep that factory look as best as possible.
Id be worried about how it hooks on the back of frame reinforce where it connects to pu box frame I built the beds for my dump trucks big ones put a bar on the bottom of the bed that drops down and you can secure it in case it comes down saw a guy get cut in half cause bed wasn't secure don't take much to save your life are body parts 8:39
