Sounds plausible but after shutting both butterfly valves open up the drain valves and check if the butterfly valves hold. I mostly find fairly new butterfly valves will hold but after 10 years or so maybe not.
Lol. You pulled out the idler screw. That's a tough reassembly. Essentially though you're fine just tilt the assembly vertical and gently try to slip it back together. Freeze the ends for better clearance.
@MrBerniebling it's a two screw pump. You have the screw shaft that's driven directly, and you have the second screw which is either driven by the first screw through mesh contact or by a gear set at the bottom. Given how the unit fell apart your pump is probably not a gear driven second screw. So simply ploping the idle screw back into the bearing will solve your problems.
@@MrBerniebling the draft diverted keeps the draft constant no matter what the pressure is outside, ex. Windy and cold to warm and mild. It allows the heat to be absorbed by the water in the boiler. If you try to run an oil burner without it you get nearly zero heat transfer to the water. If it was forced air it still won't make heat even if it's burning.
I'm no authority, not even close, but I've been reading up on this because I have a similar problem with my home system so this vid caught my interest. If I understand the theory correctly, it seems to me that any leak around the damper *increases* the volume of air going into the stack and should act to *reduce* draft. Effectively, its like using a bigger damper. I can see where it might be a problem if you had too little draft, but then there probably would not have been a need for the damper to begin with. Or am I just missing something obvious? I'm guessing that's why the installer didn't bother to create a better seal though it doesn't seem like a particularly good idea to deliberately create a leaky chimney, so probably not deliberate.
I like what you thinking but isn't b vent on each end of each fitting machine pressed or at least one side I would think there wouldn't be that much infiltration unless it's an adjustable piece
6.1 The handwheel can be removed and repositioned in any of six positions around the stem. a) Close valve fully. b) Remove handwheel-retaining bolt. c) Remove handwheel and turn indicator sleeve by grasping the handwheel and pulling away from the valve body along the stem. d) Select a new position for easy reading and with the sleeve and handwheel held together in the closed position (0.0), push them back over the bonnet head and valve stem. e) Replace handwheel-retaining bolt. f) Open valve.
Hmm, I wonder if hot gas bypass is an option on your application? Introduction of hot gas would prevent the cycling on the differential pressure control switch. Im sure if it was an option you would have been all over it.
This is plumbed correctly.. 1) Change one filter to backwash. Leave the other filter in filter mode. Close the return valve and you're backwashing. It uses the clean, filtered water from the opposite filter to backwash. Call a pool professional next time..
I did call in a heavy hitter pool guy, thanks for the insult.. That said, your exactly correct and I just didn't see it at the time I recorded this video as I am a mechanical contractor and not a pool filter professional. The only thing I knew for sure was the customer was backwashing via gravity flow and the delta P across the filter was way out of range. Where were you 9 months when I needed you? I only took care of the boiler that was connected to that pool filter.
