Really love this! I have a small army of werewolves to paint and I wanted to elevate them more than a plain wash of speedpaints but also not spend much time on them 😅 thanks for the tutorial!
love the white fur! been trying to decide on a fur color for my own given the rest of the army colors i chose, and after seeing this i may very well do the same!
Nice! Love your videos, very informative but also just relaxing to watch someone painting. I've got a fallen divinity i have to tackle at some point. Big models are intimidating though so i'm holding off for now!
Thanks - I try to make the type of videos I like watching! One everything's I like about the large Conquest models is that they don't have a proportionate increase in amount of detail, so they don't take quite so long as large models from some other manufacturers.
Wanted to go for a deadwood/drow bodies to make a frightening sylvaneth army but your tutorial reaaally make me rethink my choice. Don't know if you're still there but what would you do for all the insects and base decoration we got on the sprues? Same thing or more neutral?
For mine, I used a bright contrast blue to make them pop a bit. That's the most common question from this video - I really need to do a follow-up showing bugs! I also think the Turbodork colorshift paints could be fun to try for insect carapaces. I've played around with some of their reformulated paints and they go on nicely with a brush.
Nice. Will try a metallic with contrast(the talassar blue pops a lot over metal) or the army painter color shifts. But popping color won't do a lot of contrast with the pretty dark minis? Still, love your scheme, seems way easier than mine...😊 Thank you for the answer, gotta subscribe now^^
Great video! I modified it slightly...i found the initial purple wash dominated the model, so a glaze of Agrax earthshade browned it down to my satisfaction. On the face as well, to me the final white highlight was too white, but again, with a thinned down wash of Tesseract Glow, it works!
Do you have issues with the crackle paint chipping off? I am working on my conquest army and am planning on using a similar base effect for the 4 unit stands but I'm concerned with the paint chipping off of them when I transport them etc.
I haven't had an issue with it. It might help that I usually transport them on movement trays, as a unit. So I'm not handling the surface much. Just make sure to use a primer on the plastic, which will help all the paint (including the crackle effect) to stick better.
If you drybrush them along with all the wood, you end up with a pretty good, pre-shaded base to add some contrast paint to. They're mostly Aethermatic Blue Contrast, with a bit of Talassar Blue in the cracks to darken them up a bit.
I have a lot of rough, junky brushes that I'll use for basecoats, drybrushing, washes, etc. For when I went to be more careful, I like Rosemary & Co.'s "Pointed Pure Sable" in a size 4. They're big enough to hold a decent amount of paint and pointed enough to paint small details. Their "Smooshing" brush is also great for large areas of drybrushing. Hopefully that helps!
There is a fine texture on the base, before painting. The Jolly Lark fine basing textures works well, or one of the fine pastes, like Vallejo or Pro-Acryl makes.
Not a silly question at all! The bright ivory works well through an airbrush, with a little thinning. It's been a minute since I made this video, but I probably used the Vallejo white air paint that I have a big bottle of. It's my go-to, since it's pre-mixed (Here's an amazon link: amzn.to/4aV3Keu). But really and decent white should work.
@@JollyLark Yeah I took a closer look at the models I painted with a brush now, and that bright ivory will likely not be distinguishable from the Titanium White I usually use with my airbrush once the green is on. Thanks mate!
Yeah, I bet that'd look great. I think Tzeentch flames could look good with a different fluorescent spray too: maybe pink or green? I bet blue ink sponged over fluorescent pink would look neat and create some interesting purple-y transistions.
@@JollyLark Ooh, I might have to try that. Maybe I'll use the orange spray for my brimstone horrors and the pink spray for the accent flames on my other models. I'm still thinking about the flame tip colours but leaning towards blues/purples. I'm new to the hobby, just started painting a few weeks ago. Thanks for the tips!
@@johnw9038 Post a link to some pics, when you try. The key thing when using the sponged-on inks for the flame tips will be using something that will blend with the base color, since the inks are transparent. So I'd avoid any colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel, like I wouldn't layer blue over orange or green over red.
@@JollyLark Thank you, I will keep that in mind and I will try to remember the pics. I think I'll get the 3 sprays you suggested then transition them to various purples/blues as appropriate. I'm excited to try this. I will need to wait at least a month though because my parents will pick up the sprays at a shipping depot in the US.
Great looking mini! Personally I never enjoyed the Montana Gold paints due to their low pressure, I much prefer their Black line as it's high pressure, but I don't think they have it in fluo colours.
Interesting. I'll have to check out the black line. I thought the low pressure was good for a controlled over-spray of orange. For an even base-coat, I could see the higher pressure being better.
@@JollyLark I just felt it didn't come out as finely misted with gold, but to be fair. A lot of work is done by the nozzles/caps you use. I think "we" want soft and/or skinny
Haven't heard anything about the new turbodork metallics but just looking at this footage they look great! Have you tried vallejo metal colour - and if so how do they compare? VMC is my gold standard but would love to fill the gaps in their colour lineup.
I really like the Vallejo metal colours, but they're not great with a brush; they really want to be airbrushed on. I've only tried the one metallic color from Turbodork so far, but I'm impressed with it's sheen and how good it looks brushed on. I'm going to pick up a silver metallic from the local store this week and try it out. I also really like the new, reformulated metallics from the Vallejo Game Color range. They work will with a regular brush and all look great. I suspect I'll land on using a combination of those and the Turbodork paints.
Nice - I was eyeing some of their metallic for the Radjukar. They have a dark bronze/copper color that looks like it might work well as a base coat. I may end up just air-brusing the metallic, but I often prefer spray cans over airbrushing for base-coating a big batch of minis (and I've got 24 Redjukar assembled and ready to paint).
@@JollyLark They look great! but I had to use brush on primer over the bits I wanted to paint over as a first layer! May just be part of the very shiny sprays
@@JollyLark WoW, thank you very much for the information, I had the idea of doing a conversion to create Ork Dreadnoughts but with an Age of Sigmar theme in 40k
That's really cool! For some reason, I've never considered using the purple and blue, even though I know you see the colors in real fire. I'll definitely be trying this
That was my thinking: trying to pull in more of the colors that do flicker through flames. I'm curious to try something similar but with other color palettes. I like the "texture" that sponging on the ink created.
The Montana was the best looking option I found locally, but another bright orange spray would probably work fine, as long as it goes on reasonably thin. I've found airbrushed fluorescents really want to be put on top of white and don't cover other colors that well. I haven't been able to get a similar effect by airbrushing fluorescent paint over an opaque color.
@@JollyLark Not even Bad Moon Yellow? Huh. Good to know. That was actually my plan. I was thinking I could just use a Pro Acryl or Army Painter fluorescent orange from a airbrush. Either way, thank you for the tutorial. I'm still going try stippling purple and blue the next time I attempt to paint magical flames.
@@matthewmatheny387 If I was going to do it without the fluorescent orange spray, I would probably prime white, airbrush fluorescent orange, then wash with white ink, followed by bad Moon yellow.
This is a great approach. I especially like the initial drybrush steps. This is great. do you have a recommendation as an alternative for the Hull Red primer. Would any dark brown alternative work?
Definitely - or you could just prime in black and do a quick basecoat in a dark red-brown. Since you're mainly looking for it to do its work in the recesses of the model, it's OK to just do a single coat and then work up from there. In the Citadel range, something like doombull brown would work well. Most paint range have a dark, reddish brown that works. You may also try using a "Red Oxide" primer from the hardware store. When painting scenery, I've had good luck starting with that.
If I was going for a fiery effect, I would use white, bright yellow, and Bright orange. Maybe a darker translucent orange, like one of the darker contrast oranges. The key is to have your glow colors all be lighter than your bark colors. Red may not show up as well, which is why I would stick to the lighter fire colors.
Hi there! Thanks for the video, looks like a wonderful way to get presentable and sturdy flying things! Do you happen to know its success with resin prints?
I haven't tried it with resin prints, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Thinking about it, I'm not sure I've ever drilled into 3D printed resin - it might be worth trying it on a spare piece to be sure. I'd try to use a sharp drill bit to make the hole in the resin, which should reduce the chance of cracking (or model the hole in the bottom of the model, so it prints with the hole already there).
@@JollyLark That would be ideal, but I lack the experience and software to make such holes in the piece prior to printing. I’ll give it a try regardless, it looks like a neat technique! Thank you again(:
@@JollyLark I haven't attempted drilling into resin yet, but I did find a very accessible alternative to adding one to the model first. I've been using an in-browser tool called TinkerCAD, which has been entirely free thus far, and you can import STLs and OBJ files no problem. From there it's relatively straight forward and intuitive to create a 1mm diameter cylinder and just create the hole yourself before you print. It's an extra step to printing if the model doesn't come with it, but it's extremely easy to do from there. I struggle with 3D programs and this has been a godsend for specific things like this lol.
I'm planning for a Phyrexian inspired color scheme, so your tutorial was spot on to give me ideas, huge thanks for that! I'd be curious to see your method applied to smaller members of the Spires, like the Avatara and the drones, any chance that's on your planning? :D
I'm also curious to try that. At the moment, I'm happily distracted by the new Sorcerer Kings models, but am curious to paint more Spires at some point. At some point, I'm just going to end up with an army for every faction...
@@JollyLarkFor what it's worth, I applied your method on my own avataras, and it looks great! Curious yo see what you're going to think of for the SK, I'll stay tuned!
We have lots of new options planned! The Cthluhu-themed add-on includes two bodies with shotguns. Tommy guns would also be fun, but we'll have to see what stretch goals we unlock.
Thankyou so much for this. I've watched a bunch of 'slapchop' videos (black primer, grey drybrush, white drybrush, contrast paint) and while I like the basic idea, the black base coat and monochrome underpainting really doesn't work in a lot of cases IMO especially for flesh. I think shadows should be more saturated, not less. I've theorised that blue primer with a pale warm drybrush like Wraithbone would simulate natural light and add the needed saturation. This video is very close to what I was thinking and seems to validate my thoughts.
Blue primer with a light highlight is my go-to speed painting undercoat. It works well for most colors. If you want to see another example of it, check out my dragon painting video.
Very nice scheme and paint job, I'm borrowing this for my Sylvaneth! One question: on the weapon blades you first use Warp Lightning Green, then after the white "NMM" you say you "go back to the same pot of Hexwraith Flame". You're not using Warp Lightning again (WL first, white, then WL again), but actually switching up the color on top of the white?
That's right - it makes the white highlights a lighter green than using Warp Lightning. Hexwraith Flame is very thin to start with, so you can use it right out of the pot. Using diluted Warp Lightning could also work, but I liked the contrast between the greens. Using undiluted Warp Lightning would probably cover the white highlights too much.
@@JollyLark Yeah that totally works, I just wasn't sure I missed something in the video. xD I just got a Sylvaneth lot in a trade and was looking for inspiration. Your army reminded me of how I (100% less well) painted my Tzeentch, and I really enjoyed that fast but striking process. I hope you don't mind us poor souls copying your beautiful scheme. xD
@@pederbergenwall That's what the video's for! More than not minding, I'm always happy to people putting these techniques to work for their armies. After you get some painted, shoot me a pic!
Hi Jolly, would Army Painter Oak brown be too bright compared to your medium brown and can you by chance recommend a substituion for the greys and whites you're using (preferebly citadel) since those products can be difficult to get in my country? :) big fan of this work!
I'm not specifically familiar with that Army Painter color but, looking at pictures, it seems like it would work. For the gray, you're looking for a warm gray - even just mixing a tiny bit of brown into a neutral gray would work too. Something like Dawnstone, but with just a really little bit of brown mixed in. Death Korps Drab might looks good too, maybe lightened up with a bit of bone mixed in. This is a pretty flexible technique though and the exact colors matter less than the overall tone. It can help to do a quick test model and see what you think.
That should be fine. 1mm wire is pretty sturdy. If you get some "piano wire" that is hardened steel, it will abosultely be enough - but that stuff is hard to cut without something hefty, like bolt cutters. You'll ruin any hobby clippers trying to cut it.
Probably a silly question but I noticed you glued the magnets towards the sides of the bases, if they were centred I imagine they wouldn't magnetise to the washers effectively?
