Maker of overly ambitious projects that include 3D Printing, Machining, CNC control, fabrication and automotive work.
A background in Engineering, combined with a bad habit of believing I can fix anything I set my mind to often leads me into some pretty strange projects. From building 3D printers, to home renovations to working on machinery and making my own tools, if you've found this channel, I'm pretty sure you're just as addicted as me to making the impossible possible.
That is the wrong way to fix abs the right way is to either get some pieces of abs Soak it in acetone or MEK Then take a dribble tool and make A Slight indention in the crack And brush on the ABS solution on your 2 pieces
Nice video and presentation. I gave up the solid hollow cone idea based on the contact junction isn’t area contact but a line contact. When you have time do a blue ink test and you know what I mean. Also chips can trap in the expansion slot preventing it from closing and release of holder.
Nice score, Bubba. I just copped a LMS 5500(Sieg sx2.7) I'm waiting on my grizzly g4000. I'll be watching your vids for ideas and such. I'm really diggin your show keep; them coming.
Looks good. I just made one that looks very much like yours. It's a lot more work than it appears in a short video. Tolerances and finish requirements make it a precision job.
Super cool, are the designs available I'd love to make one for my lathe as well if you're ok with and able to send some designs that would be amazing! Either way great work man!
Hello Thanks for your nice video.ihave one qoetion: Exactly in the centre is big hole 🕳️ and exactly the besaid this hole also you did one small hole.for what you did?is nesesery? Best regards sina
Hi there, thank you. It's not strictly necessary, I did it to help the part expand easily without cracking over time. I didn't want sharp edges that would lead to stress concentrations
@@Mark_How thanks 🙏 it is very biutifull. Ihave one small lathe iwanted do ather one that isaw in RU-vid but ilove your change tool post.be sure imake one small for my lathe. Best regards sina Von Österreich 🇦🇹
Wow! This is going to be interesting. The Kurt 675 was a classic. Got two a few years back and they were expensive. In places like South Africa I can see it as hard. Your going to need to check your draft angles. You also need to finish against swell. I been at it for years. I like sugar pine and mahogany. Durhams wood putty is an excellent filler. For cores, you need to use sand with water glass. WG is sodium silicate. You gas it with CO2 to make cores. I am going to enjoy this series.
Nice Job! This design is similar to one done by This Old Tony a while back. These heads are really useful. But….what is really cool is if someone would tackle a wohlehaupter head or the exotic and rate Tree taper boring head. I would do it but I am moving my shop and home and won’t be able to post machine videos for a while.
the magnetic disk is a marvelous edeal thank I try to put it on my ondinary sanding belt i sldo use the photocopier motor on my colon dril for vey slow speed jacquessavard videotron ca
I buy my harm from a supplyer of tv in the hospital they have allready strong harm ; also I stabilesed my camera whit a vintage hard disk ; I remouve all magnet harm and remouve some spacer betting disks afte I put x7 disk inside like this when I plug it I have a powerfull gyroscope effect ; the nesxt project is to replace the disk whit lead disk very heavey and get more guroscope effet if it still start ; probaly make a utube to explayned howto make the guroscope also very usefull for binocular observer ; but only when i finish ti learn how ti make utube video thank for the project
That's a pretty cool idea to use hard drives for the gyroscopic stabilization effect. I have to dampen out vibrations on this manually every time I bump it. But glad to hear from a fellow crazy inventor👍
@@Mark_How I probLY Make utube demo of howto this later this summer now try to find very hold HD like a 5 inch 29 meg or 3.5 40 meg fulle hight about 2.5 inch that is the best I send the tuto later
the 45 degree is a very good edeal ; I use vintage phocopier motor like the xerox2000 or some cannen liquid inch they turn naturaly at 280 rpm and have a very strong gear box possible to control whit simple dimmer ; thank for the setup
Very nice build, I have a question for you regarding the carbide blades for your scraper, Is there a South African supplier for those, or did you need to import those? T.I.A.
Thanks, so I searched high and low for Carbide blanks, the most promising lead was the guys that do carbide tipped scrapers for conveyer belts for the mines. I eventually found a genuine Sandvik scraper from a guy on marketplace down in Durban, no idea where he got it, but it means they at least exist here. Other than that I've built 2 home made scrapers using square slab face mill inserts with no chip breaker geometry, but also not common anymore
I made my first one before I got a mill and I used endmills in the lathe collet chuck. Key held in a boring bar toolpost holder (designed it to have the same OD as the boring bar holder for that reason) and once it was centered up went to town on it with the end mill. Kinda tricky to square up the different sides without a flat reference but a construction level and machinist square did the trick well enough. I find that in machining there's many ways to skin the same theoretical cat, some easier than others but you gotta wee with the willy you got. Keep up the good work and cheers from Cleveland Ohio
Thanks for sharing this. It's a very interesting and accessible design. I think I can make it entirely on the lathe if I to a bit of tomfoolery to mill the dovetails. That's awesome!
