Thanks, man, I'm old and I can't tear all that stuff apart again. So I'm gonna try that. Hopefully that fixes my problem. And I don't have to deal with it for a long long time. Next project shims M y g m c rear end
Brother thank you had a problem with my 94 ranger came across your video.i did it a little different but it worked keep up the good work and God bless you 🎉
Help i have ford f350 6.0 cant seem to yake off properly after stopping tow haul light comes up replaced transmission solenoid ssd and its stilll not responding
This worked so well I thought the wrench was slipping and it didn't work! Thanks! If anyone cares I took an 18" Pittsburg adjustable wrench from harbor freight I had laying around and ground down the tips until they fit the narrow space. The hammer trick worked like a charm. (I really didn't want to drive to a store)
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 I got it on but didn’t heat enough. Went on half way. Had to torque it down and reset TDC. Chrysler 300, 2010. Thicker balancer.
@@IVIylostpotato I doubt you blew the seal. There is much more pressure pushing the pedal than that vacuum creates. However, it does sound like you have a leak somewhere
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 so I agree and I just looked and it’s pouring oil from what looks like an oil filter on the transmission. Which wasn’t before does that mean slave cylinder? I didn’t try tightening that filter but I will also
I have a problem. I went and bought me the vacuum pump, but the master I have has a long cut and two tiny holes, and when i pump, it comes out and empties the reservoir and is not working to me can someone help mi understand it better
4 of us over here getting pissed off. All of us have changed them in the past several times. One is a mechanic. Watched and repeated your video and came off with ease. Great tip thanks.
Hate to keep bothering you but I'm just not having any luck at all doing this. It's a 87 Chevy r30 , replaced master and slave, it's not sucking the fluid back in, I'm getting 25 on vacuum when I pull the hose doesn't suck the fluid back in any suggestions?
@@garyturner5786 okay, do it with the pedal down and then pull it up and do out. You should get a lot of bubbles the first time you do it. If you aren’t, air is likely trapped, in the master. Putting the pedal down should bleed it.
I own a 1981 f250 witha 1994 clutch and trans. I tried to bleed the clutch all day. I even removed the slave cylinder and bench bled it. When I put it back in, I tried some more to get the very last bit of air out. I only got more air back in. Then I saw this vid. I tried it. It works like a charm. Thanks for making this vid. It saved my week.
Cool trick to remove the fan if you are replacing the old water pump. But i'm afraid that could cause damage to a new pump, in case you are not replacing the pump.
Howdy Shawn, I replaced the slave cylinder on my 96 f150. When I am trying to bleed it the normal way, no progress down below. I tried your method with no success sadly. I got small air bubbles coming out of the line, but nothing like you had. After trying your method for 2 hours (clutch depressed and not) i still have no peddle. I tryed going back to a vacum bleed on the bleeder and got no fluid. I tried reconnecting the hydraulic line to make sure it was seated, still no luck. It doesnt take any fluid from the resivor either. Got any ideas to go after next? Thankyou very much.
@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 Howdy, it ended up being the new master I got a few months ago failed. Replaced it and now have the lightest clutch I have ever felt. Thankyou for your help. Have a great day.
This dude.... needs a PayPal link, I'd tip him for saving me a few hours..... It did take more like 30 hits for me, but got it, and I was on my last nerve
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 the pin rod snapped off my clutch to the master slave so I replaced it and pedals stays to ground and bleeder screw won't come unstuck without twisting the aluminum it's connect to so this idea ypu have is genius wish I seen it 6 hours ago funny part I never searched for thos info it was recommended like RU-vid heard me cussing my truck out lol your a blessing to the RU-vid community I replaced all clutch components about 2 years ago
Bro ypu are the man it worked perfectly back on the road I'd love to send you a donation for that info you got a way to donate your a hero I have over 4000 in work stalled because the issue amd can be back to work
I JUST dealt with this nightmare, instead of going through the reservoir ( I tried countless times)... it was nearly impossible to remove the air from the reservoir, at least in my case, I had a mobile mechanic take my vacuum gauge and connect to the bleeder valve, on the slave cylinder, he turned the valve slightly open and within 5 minutes, my nightmare was over
Wow built my own 36mm wrench 1/4 steel. I kept pounding in direction of removal, pulley kept moving to belt. 😢 Your technique tapping straight down other hand gently pushing indirection of removal, maybe less than 5 seconds. All be it I had a good solid wrench. 👍👍👍👍👍
@@mikeprice8307 yes, I thought you said you wanted to replace the fluid. To do that you suck all of the fluid, from the reservoir and then open the bleeder. After it’s empty, you fill it up. With the pedal down, use the method, in the video and then again with the pedal up, till all bubbles are gone. If you’re not replacing the fluid, then use the procedure. I made this video after a clutch job so, the fluid was new.
@@mikeprice8307 If you’re just changing fluid, you shouldn’t get any air. Just bleed it from the bleeder and make sure to keep the reservoir full. Have you bled brakes or clutch before? If not, you need two people, one working the bleeder and keeping the reservoir full. The other pumping the clutch. You pump it 3-4 times, open the bleeder and when the clutch hits the floor, close the bleeder and repeat until new fluid comes out.
@@lovejesus186 you might be able to pull a fuse or unplug it but, these newer cars are pretty sophisticated. I don’t know if you can. It may not start when you’re done. unless it’s an aftermarket one.
94 f350 pump pulls great vacuum but nothing comes through line tried with pedal down and up truck has set 15 years clutch does disengage just not enough to shift while running any thoughts?
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 no fluid either just negative pressure. Slave moves some and clutch will disengage slightly just not enough yet. does get fluid at the bleeder when try conventional method of bleeding
I don't think this works with f150 4.9l the way my serpentine belt is routed the belt runs off the back and there isn't enough grip or tension for the pully to stay in place. Also it's on tighter than pants on Justin Bieber.
