Your sample was nowhere near the alder door yours didn't have the yellow tone . This caveman will match that color blindfolded . Raw umber / burnt umber linseed real paint thinner adjusted for maple seal right over with light yellow dye in my clear and booyah brotha I'm done and mixed my own butternut lol
Adding thickener and using cure lamps to stop runs and drips screams too heavy of a spray. I’d like to see this dude spray SW products and watch all the drips and callbacks he gets. He sprays the airless the way an hvlp should be sprayed.
@bingobunga8995 hey I have many videos and have sprayed everything under the sun cv lacquer emerald pro industrial Enduro every brand of urethane from centurion Renner ilva envirolak not much I can't spray my friend
@@dennisrodriguez9700 why do you put it on so heavy then? Not many can put emerald urethane down without a single drip on verticals using airless. That stuff just runs and takes forever to dry. 2k is great cause of how quick it sets up but damn you put it on heavy.
@bingobunga8995 hey anytime you wanna come down and see me spray in-person just.let me know I can show you how to. Sorry vertical I'm in socal just let me know also I put on hands-on refinishing classes all over the country have one coming up in. Oct in Oklahoma
@@dennisrodriguez9700 thanks boss, I’m not anywhere near that area. I’m in Florida which is why at first I thought you were crazy for spraying it on so heavy but now I understand. I am totally and completely at the mercy of my climate (hot/extremely humid) and paint products take much longer to dry here which is why there’s the higher risk for runs. I get great flow out of super thin coats which lets me save a little on material but I’d still like the stuff to dry within the dry time which most of the time it doesn’t bc of the climate. I’m sure Oklahoma is a lot drier and I’m sure not so many super humid days where nothing seems to want to dry even solvent based lacquer.
@bingobunga8995 so just heads up dehumidifiers definitely help and a couple infared heaters. I know it's hot but to dry out air is what u need this will allow coatings to dry way faster. With a mid sized dehumidifier you can drop the humidity 20% sometimes as high as 30 % which would make considerable difference in dry times. Check it out for a small price you can save hours of wait time on coatings
Brother your way out of line , maple is blotchy alder is the most even material mainly hardwood . Get right and use linseed oil ( real paint thinner ) and utc adjusted to weather . You can seal right over with in 15 minutes. That door you stained should show beautiful EVEN grain yours is blotchy . Venezia Cabinet & Furniture Finishing since 1987 we use real hand glazes all UTC and stains then we shade with Naptha and utc for verticle or fast dry . Stay in your lane I like your spray teqnique ,
@robertvenezia1646 what u are talking about is basically caveman style finish I know and have used that style of finish 30 years ago but today with microlith technology and pigments it's a whole other level of stain and finish look into it and open your mind trust me
@@dennisrodriguez9700 open my mind and make a simple piece of hardwood alder look blotchy ?? Uh no thanks I'll stay custom your talking production so you know our way is used in multimillion dollar estates and custom finishing shops around the world . Let's see you do the glazing we do with your wb on 50 foot panels brotha you'll get smoked We Spray naphtha and dry brush glazes over casein and peels it's way above your titan my boi
Im seeing wiping marks from cup rings i put on my black sample but i only waited a few days before testing it out.. im wondering what other options would be good for a dresser
I'd say most samples should cure about 72 hours but a solid 2k coatings say Renner centurion or envirolak are solid choices and extremely water resistant
Hey question- did u just say that airless is better finish then hvlp? Also y not prime with shellac? I've never used renner donu like it ? Does it cover tannins?
851 is designed to be more tight to wood. Have almost solvent look. And at higher catalyst ratio it's gonna be a touch more durable 765 is a bit fuller looking coating also with thicotropic style coatings does have better virtical hang. It is also a 2k but the catalyst helps more for adhesion the the hard durability like 851 but it's a solid coating
@@dennisrodriguez9700 I really appreciate you replying. just discovered you today - amazing videos & content! I don’t mean to be dense, but I’m not understanding how i apply it here; bc In your video, you have a fan pointing outside. The only door for this bathroom is shared with master bedroom, so a fan would be blowing it into master bedroom, not outside. 😓 the closest window is on the other side of the bed in bedroom approximately 14’ away.
Thanks for the informative video. I have been painting cabinets with Pre cat Kem acqua and am happy with 8t but have heard a lot of good things about Renner 2k. Maybe a stupid question but how would you compare the two? Also what stain blocking primer do you use with it? Would Shellac based BIN work with it? TIA
Hey. What satin sheen for white Renner is the best in your opinion? What about black? Also how about black or a dark color flat sheen? Thanks. Great videos. A lot of good info.
Isolator is a bonding blocking coating that helps to encapsulate issues that you might see in some refinishing projects or a substrate that has issues with adhesion this will do both. We use it for cabinets that are plastic as bonding element and for doors that are giving us concerns of bleed or adhesion this will promote bonding and blocking