This channel is very loosely based on HVAC related content. Tool reviews/overviews with some other stuff thrown in to mix it up. I try to keep things entertaining as well.
@@jonhvac the flexible lines do help. I have had several customers complain about energy bills after installing these fwiw. They are not efficient when running hard
@@SurfBrosHVACyeah the flex kits are great. That's what I did for this one. I know the board has dip switches to change modes, like echo mode and normal mode etc. I wonder if putting it in echo mode would help?
@@jonhvac we have switched them to eco mode and the difference per the customer was marginal. They are my cheap option and I tell people that much. I don’t even offer them unless the customer is being cheap off the bat
Zippers look like they’ll bust easy…sucks because I need a decent priced backpack with heavy duty zippers. I’ve just went through the “heavy duty” south wire backpack in less than 6 months…I had it packed decent, but nothing crazy
I ordered a replacement capacitor for a unit very similar to this but the one spec'd is too big: 2" vs 1.75 in. diameter and won't fit in the slot for it. Where should I mount it now as supposedly it's the only one recommended by the manufacturer?
Where did you get the 1amp version. Amazon is selling $63.99 and it said 1.3amp. I was going to order one us motor same everything but it rated 1.6 amp so cancelled.
What's best way to remove the bottom drain (base) pan as my capacitor leaked oil and I need to clean the water wheel and surrounding area etc. under the condenser coils?
Mines is about 2 yrs old and I may have used it about 75 times .. sensor bad and they said I need to replace the filter regularly .. Replace filter just after about 75 uses !!!
Hey man, good video. Have you ever seen one of this kind of unit that leaks a ton but has a little to no water in the catch pan? We have a Whynter ARC-14s and a day ago it started leaking a bunch of water. Went to put a hose on the pan but nothing came out. Tilted the unit to see if anything was in there and only got a few ounces. Yet it's producing a bunch of water, to the point we may have to get the carpet replaced. It's of course july in northern VA atm so it's 100F with almost 100% humidity most days and we can't go without running it. Not sure I could afford a tech at this point and I simply can not find a service manual for these things. Any advice would be helpful man.
My capacitor leaked oil, which gummed up the float switch so it wouldn't turn the unit off when the high water mark was reached causing this issue. Additionally, large amounts of dust and/or leaking oil prevents the lower coils from evaporating the water effectively out the exhaust. The bottom reservoir is quite small so you may only get a couple of dinner plates worth of water to drain out.
@@SuperG11123 I literally got spoonful's of water out of the tank. Meanwhile, it's happily dropping about two gallons a day down the insides of the body and out the bottom. I managed to get the front off last night and the heat exchangers aren't actually very dirty. I couldn't manage to get the back off despite taking the two hidden screws out so not sure what's going on there. We have it in a large plastic pan (picture a massive cookie sheet), and just sop it up until we find a fix or break down and replace it. I just hate the whole disposable society thing ya know?
I have to comment on this one. Quite a few of the other houses in my neighborhood still have these units on them. The evap coil is directly behind where the drain connection is and you have to pull the top to clean it.and lastly, i believe DNP stands for Day, Night, Payne
Hey Jon- Rookie question- What about the air thats in the yellow Charge/Vacuum line? So like if I only hooked up to check system pressures without hooking up the yellow cha/vac line, How do I ensure that i wont be sucking air from the yellow line into the system along with the refrigerant when returning refrigerant back into the system? I understand purging the yellow line if connected to a tank, but can't seem to find any info on how to clear it of air on a system check if you don't use it.. Many THX !!
Tightness test is a mbar pressure test for gas pipework 👍 In the UK, we let gas into the pipework from the shut off valve to around half the working pressure then close the valve and watch for a pressure rise. This called a let-by test to test valve integrity. We then charge the pipe to working pressure (21mbar) and close the shut off valve. We time 2 minutes and watch for a pressure drop. This checks the “tightness” of the pipework. You can do it manually (manometer & watch/timer) or with a Testo setup to record it etc 👍
I am glad that I found this! I am a “Run-Test Operator” for an HVAC company. I test the newly assembled units. The test stands have old, worn hoses. I have asked for new ones many times and got nowhere. I purchased 8 Yellow Jacket Plus II hoses with the ball valves at $60 each. Long story short, despite using Coremax Snapmates on every hose, some of the gaskets are wearing. I was worried that I was going to have to buy new hoses.
Good job. I had my exhaust fan blower cage break just like yours. Dozens of the slat pieces on the floor of the portable A/C. I cleaned that up, and can spin the squirrel cage easily by hand. But when I turn on the system, cold air blows out the top, but no hot air discharges out the back. The exhaust fan motor does not appear to be kicking on. So ... Do you think when the cage breaks, the motor typically fails, too? What voltage should I get at the exhaust motor? Thanks.
Good video. Thanks. Viewers should know the compressor being tested is a "scroll" type made by Copeland, which, according to Copeland, can show low ohms on the Supco and still be perfectly functional.
