Welcome to my channel. Cars maintenance and some random stuff is what you’ll find. I’m one of only a few that will answer any questions asked about the process or results.
Thanks for watching, please like comment and subscribe. 🇺🇸
Very hard to watch. No one cares about your dog and his hair. The close up video and moving all around makes it extremely hard to watch. Most of us are here looking for a solution, not trying to hang out with a buddy in the shop. All the banter is annoying. It's an old video, I assume you have done much better as time goes by..... but, yea.... very hard to watch this one.
@@kenlyons224 It’s been a while. I just took the actual roof size and added a few inches. I believe the side to side was close, and front to back added a few feet. Avery wrap is what I used. Thanks for watching.
Where I live I refuse to take mine to dealer. They messed up all four of those wheels that are currently on it when we replaced the tires. If I had to guess 200 plus. Thanks for watching appreciate the comment.
I sold that car to another BMW guy! After doing the cam shaft sensors and replaced MAF it ran fine. It’s hard to tell with those things though. If it’s stalling unplug MAF. If it idles like that id start there. Hope this helped.
I can understand your frustration.bought bmw 2010 3x second day died on me just got new abs module control brought home two days ago after being in shop for a month and started car ready to leave EML light comes on and car dies again🤬😡don’t know what to do I’ve only drove it like 4 x since I bought it two months ago
Wow, I have almost an identical model to your 3 series sedan man. And I’m going thru the same issues right now. It’s so frustrating to drive in this atl traffic once in limp mode. I just replaced whole ccv system & disa valve due to vacuum leak concerns, thinking it would fix it but nope. Now you got me wanting to try battery & check voltage @ MAF sensor.🤷🏽♂️
Hi there. I had the same code 2D2E, but I had cracked timing chain slide, thus timing out of about -13°. Changed complete timing chain and adjusted the timing and the problem is gone.
Hey Eddie - Just curious, did you lose some of your speakers when you did your install. I have the logic 7 system in my 2011 E93. I installed the latest Eonon radio (Q65 Pro) along with the specified decoder box. I connected the RCA cables from the decoder box to the RCA cables specified in the instructions on the wire harness that goes to the head unit. After the install, sound only comes out of the front speakers. The sound is good, but it would be a lot better if sound was coming out of the back speakers. Did you or anyone else your aware of have this problem?
Is your Eonon still working great???? Any hiccups since the install?? I see it’s been a couple years. Just curious if it’s still working and sounding great?
@@eddieellison7679 did you retain the original BMW chimes and Gong?I didn't see you install the chime box. Im looking to retain my sounds with the aftermarket radio. i whent with the EKIY T8 kit.
So , I’m thinking about getting this exact unit setup for my E90. My question is , I have the Logic 7 Fiber Optic setup stock now like you had. But I’m getting no sound at all with my factory radio. So if I go with this new eonon unit with the decoder box thing you showed will it work ok? In other words my stock unit has no sound now. So with this new setup will it restore all radio sound? Or does my issue of no sound with my stock unit now need to be addressed before I install the Eonon unit? Or will doing that correct my issue of no sound now with stock setup? Thanks so much for your videos and input! Best video I’ve seen on this info!!
That is a good question for sure. If you have an issue currently I would say you’d need to fix that first. My stock unit worked great. The fiber line is easy to check once you remove your factory deck. It’s a two part wire. Black perforated and green that come directly out of your factory harness. If the radio has power it has to be a lose connection of sorts. Hopefully this helps. I do respond to all questions unlike other people on here. It might take me a while though and I apologize.
Perfect! Thanks so much for your response! Yes. The stock deck in there now has power. Turns on , everything up and running and lit up. Just no sound. I’ve tried the loop wires off Amazon. With no success. Just no sound. So I’m curious if I go with this new Eonon deck and decoder , if it will work?
Need to pay better attention then! Decoder is why it didn’t have sound. Read the comments. This channel isn’t to make money. It’s to help people through trail and error. Literally at 28min. Literally!!!
Hi Eddie. I'm so glad you're continuing to make great videos. It might seem like it's slow to get views but I think it's tough no matter unless you're doing sensationalist junk and not helpful videos on things for car owners like us. LOL. But it's funny I think seeing as you and I seem to own very similar cars. I have 2008 N54 335XI as well as a E46 330CI except mine is swapped out for a 2006 M3 . Everything except the fenders hood and mirrors. Anyway I just wanted to encourage you to keep up the great work!
Hey dude, loved your video I’m having the exact same problem. I have a 2002 BMW 530i and I bought an Eonon Q39pro Stereo and like you everything works except for the sound ,that part that you recommend will that work for all Eonon stereos?
When my wife bought the unit, directly from them they recommended that to go with it. Does yours have the green and black perforated wires in the main factory plug? If yes you will need that decoder.
Mine was definitely a combination of MAS mass air flow sensor. I changed battery and got new sensor and it runs fine now. You can check battery for 12volts or higher when car is off. Start car check battery while it’s running and if alternator is good you should show 14 volts or more. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
For me if I pass anywhere between 3.5k and 4k rpm the car goes into gets the eml light and the rest that comes with it. I've recently changed the throttle body and it worked for a while but then the light came back on. Now after seeing your video you're saying it might be a battery problem?
Oh man I was so hoping you'd have footage of putting in the inlet on the rear turbo. I have upgraded 17t turbos on mine with 2 inch inlets installed BUT the inlets (I had no clue at that time) were ones without wire running through them and now I have collapsing inlets as the boost is too high for them with out re enforcement wire in the inlets! Why they sold me those inlets pisses me off to a huge degree and there's no chance of my getting my cash back through ebay as I had them too long before I installed them!! So EVIL! Anyway it's now going to mean I have to do the job all over again. Well not quite but I have to drop the front subframe just to put the upgraded 2 inch inlets in AGAIN!!! No matter Thank you for the videos and learning!! You're a big help.
Man, modifying all wheel drive like me is a whole different animal and you know what I mean. The wire reinforced inlets are way harder to get behind the motor in between the fire wall. Most people modify the rear wheel drive cars cause they’re a lot easier to deal with when it comes to downpipe’s in inlet some things like that. Honestly, that was important to me to get the reinforced ones that’s why I went with a known company for tuning parts and accessories, but when I put my new turbos on, I’m doing hot side, inlets not cold side I would highly recommend you did the same thing if you’re going to go through all the troubles again, thanks for watching. I appreciate your feedback.
Thanks for watching, let us know how it goes. The channels along roof are definitely difficult. Take your time there. Yes that is my favorite color combination. We did sell that Range and are currently looking for a new one. I’ll update soon. Thanks again for watching.
