I like to try and make broken things useful again, sometimes it works and other times I just learn something... grin! The fixes might not be your way, or "the way" but this is how I did it. Hope you enjoy! Peace Before attempting any repairs, determine if the repair is within one's capabilities... ensure one has all necessary safety requirements, if at all in doubt, seek out someone with the knowledge and experience to perform the repair.
Disclaimer: this is for entertainment purposes, I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in these videos.
To all of those eastern europeans and asians who take a pile of rusty iron and spend twenty minutes performing obscure machinations before revealing that their 'amazing' invention is just another wire twister or metal bender... WATCH AND TAKE NOTE OF HOW NOT TO WASTE PEOPLE'S TIME. Nicely done sir. Liked. Subscribed.
You should always take filler plug out before pulling rear. Because if it rusted solid you’re not putting new rear fluid back in. I had that happen on my Ranger and had to buy aftermarket rear cover with filler on rear. I knew this before I did fluid change because the axle filler was frozen.
This is a great video. I have watched it several times and am now putting the I for action to use in changing the bearings on my sharpeners. Thank you for taking the time to produce this video for us Fleming Gray swing arm users.
From what I gathered it's the 1000watt rear hub or any hub electrical drive motor that should have torque arm's , not a 750watt motor as this thing has, your far from wrecking this thing with only a claimed 80nm of max torque. But go ahead and put on said arm l don't care, would be interesting to know how much you stole this thing for from the spoiled brat family that got the punk a car after putting 37k on this thing, there $2700.00+ in Canada, my guess is it went for half that or less.
The upper bushing makes that noise I had to replace my drive grain or shaft just for the upper bushing the next tom I just let it be. 350k mazda b4000 4x4 bought it in 1993 but it's a 1994 model. I told the dealership it was my upper bushing by they said it was my leaf springs so they gave me new ones and then realised I was correct. Letting out the couch and transferring power to drive shaft puts pressure on upper bushing. Just drive it easy and don't worry. ONLY under power it clunks . The bearing is fine. I've pulled people out of sand 100s of times in the desert and towed many trailers. After my replacement shaft began doing the same thing I just said it's the nature of the beast and put 200k more miles on it showing no mercy. 🚬 THAT. 🇨🇦 And my fan for my radiator is made in 🇨🇦 it's been cracked for ever but still it does its job. I did have to remove it and clean it to make it efficient because it is heat activated. The mass airflow sensor can be cleaned but mine is needing to be replaced tomorrow. Will do.
My clunk was getting worse so about a week ago I pulled the drive shaft and cleaned up and greased the front spline with a specific grease... can't quite remember the brand/make, it's made for splines, all is completely quiet now, like a new truck!
i have question my 2008 zuma 50cc electrical start dont work what could it be. i have fresh new battery and 7 amp fuse. i only heard click from start relay
@whatsbroken8309 100% agree. It's sad vehicle's aren't how they used to be made out of steel. These days all plastic and fiberglass designed to fall apart. A simple little fender bender totals out a ride now absolutely ridiculous.
I would have tried thread tape just to see if it would work because thats a crank shaft replacement . I don't think the thread tape is a full time fix but it would go till the parts come in .
My Grizzly was missing and I decided to check the valves. I found TDC with the viewing window, took off the valve cover and found them to have a lot of play.(Maybe a 1/4 inch) How can you set the valves with this much play.?
Loved the video. Lucky cat. Lucky cat momma. Especially appreciate the “no fancy joinery”, “no fancy tools”, “no annoying music”. Stress free project that can be built by the enthusiastic but not necessarily finishing carpenter. And love - we ain’t building a grand piano!😹
Awesome. Had to chuckle at the tight oil drain plug. Mine is same and I did same thing as you but still won't budge. I'm afraid I might snap something. Thanks for a very clear video.
Well.... I've seen frame welding done, (I was a welder by trade), sorta depends on how bad the whole frame is and I'm not sure what insurance would do in the event of a mis-hap...
Tip for the future when you put the motor together make the screws sung I always oil my fans when I take them apart I collect fans. Sometimes you gotta tap the shaft in order it get the bearings aligned it will spin free and not run slow or it could be dry bearings it will make it last way longer.
Could try to hit it lightly with a mig welder and use a dremel tool and file to cut the teeth back in. Will take a minute buy should work it only has 5 or so horsepower
Thanks Jesse, might try that, so far the repair worked but she only rode for a month or so last fall before it snowed, will see what this spring brings...
I've got same bike that needs work doing under you have help me out sooo much thankyou just a question do you do the electric wires I'm having problems with them aswell 😊 But thankyou sooo much for this video ❤❤❤
After years of use mine was the same and I had a cracked weld base plate. I fixed it and put a tiny wedge shim in as well for even better cutting performance
Thanks! I should have checked for cracks... have since sold it and built a "clam plate" and mounted a Milwaukee Fuel 18v on a 6" auger, works great, looking for a deal on a 2nd hand 8" auger right now and will adapt it to the drill also... gittin older so it's a lot lighter to carry onto the ice. The lake I go to doesn't allow vehicles on it... cheers!
