The "No bus" is a complicated issue. There are so many things that can cause it to happen and therefore the symptoms are always different. I'm no expert on this. I'm just the guy that made this video to show what my problem was. You can read the update to my issue in the description box and you can check out the comment section for The symptoms and issues at other people i've had. All I can say is I wish you good luck.
The wires going into the pcm. Same issues with 99 1500 ram. It dies when even while driving, at the light, usually it happens more so in the summer. But if you walk around to the 3 clips where the wires run into wiggles them, fuel pump comes on and the no bus is gone. I put white grease inside the connection, also seems to help. All dodges have this same issue.
So, I'm having the exact symptoms that you have going on here. This is the only video I have found that shows anything about the odometer blinking like that... BUT...BUT... MY ODOMETER DOESNT STOP BLINKING... EVER! No matter the time frame I've let it sit. Otherwise, the exact actions that yours showed is spot on! Sooo... no bus doesn't come up... just blink on & on! Computer? Please hellllp me if u can!
I wish I had an instant answer. However, I'm not an expert on this kind of stuff. I'm just the guy that posted a video about it. And I did learn a lot about it along the way but again, i'm still not an expert on this no bus issue. If you haven't already, I would ask that you go and read the description box for this video. I posted an update to the video in the description box. Essentially, the no bus issue can take on many forms.
My recommendation is to check the obvious first. Check all sensors starting with the crank position sensor. This is one of the usual suspects. Check all engine sensors. Then go for the wiring harness and check it close as well as ground connections and PCM connections. After you check all connections, check them again. Crazy I know, but these Dodges have wiring that will crack or split and let corrosion get it. Also, check all connectors for corrosion. If you replace the PCM, make sure it is programmed for your specific vehicle/engine.
99 Durango 5.2 4wd. I'm having similar issues. Truck runs fine for 25-30 minutes then it will stall and won't start until it cools off for about 30 minutes. I tried squirting some starter fluid in and it fires up for a few seconds. Made me think the fuel pump or fuel filter was bad. So I replaced them. That didn't solve the issue. Still stalls after 25-30 minutes of driving. I've never paid a mechanic to fix an engine issue and never will. I have had transmissions replaced and alignments,tires and balancing done. My next step is a crank position sensor, then cam position sensor, then ecm. I've already checked the single coil.There are no codes on the scanner tool and I don't get a no buss message on the odometer. If its not one of those things. I'll probly junk it or just use it in town.
I've been driving mine almost a year now it cuts out with a no bus on the dash. The problem is a computer heats up with a 5.9 liter in any cracks in solder joints separate with the heat. I squirt ice-cold water on the computer jump in and it immediately starts. I use about a 16 ounce bottle with the tiny hole in the lid. Works for me every time.
Its the exact problem I'm currently having. Noone can figure it out my gut says it's the pcu aswell just needs to be replaced. But what ended up fixing your truck? It's dejevu lol exact same symptoms
The answer to my fix can be found in the description box below the video. However, you need to know there could be any number of problems that cause "no bus".
Maybe this will help somebody. I had this problem on my 2002 dodge Dakota 4.7 liter. My truck would idle and die after 8 minutes and then it would crank no start for a long time. I cleaned the throttle body, changed TPS, IAC, no change. then I decided to leave the key in the "ON" position (with truck not on) and started wiggling the 3 connectors to the ECM. The middle connector must be where the fuel pump is connected to the ECM electrically because I heard the fuel pump engage which then I turned the ignition key to turn on the truck and it started. Maybe it's a bad connection between the middle connector to the ECM or a short. I am still working on it but I think I'm on to something.
I've been dealing with this exact scenario on my 99 dakota. Sent it to the shop and they said it was the fuse box shorted. I took it home and starting to think it's computer. Literally replaced every sensor and the problem is just getting more common as time goes on. Not a lot of information on this problem
Sorry to hear. After what I went through I truly feel for anyone having the "no bus" problem. The saddest part is that it is not limited to one thing, there are so many things that can cause the problem that it is a luckshot to find the problem quickly. It can be sensors, PCM, corrosion at a connection and the list goes on. I guess that is why this video has 58,000 views and counting.
I had to buy a brand new ECM computer from flash Masters and it cost me $385 to replace it and have it reprogrammed to my vehicle That's what took care of the no bus problem your ECM is bad
Not hardly the problem at all in my case. Like many who have viewed this video, you haven't taken the time to read the important updated information in the description box. Actually, replacing the PCM was the very first thing I did. I had the PCM programed at the dealer and the problem never changed. The reason for this video is to show "you can buy a new PCM" and still have the problem. I'm glad yours is fixed.
I have a 2001 ram 1500 5.9 The truck will run perfect anywhere from 20 minutes to a couple hours sometimes even up to a week then randomly the truck will shut off no bus pops up then wait a minute the truck will start back up I can’t figure out the problem any ideas? Pretty much same issue as your having
If you are not familiar with the "No Bus" problem I would suggest starting with checking all sensors on the engine. Crank Position Sensor is where most mechanics will start. If you're lucky it is a sensor. However, the no bus issue can be many other things such as a problem somewhere in the wiring harness. It can be a cracked wire, a corroded connection and it may not always be detectable. It can all so me the PCM (computer). I am not an expert just a guy that made a video of what happened to me. In the end my problem was a burned wire leading from the electric fan into the main harness. In your situation it could be a bad connection... I'm just guessing.
I have a 99 5.2 starts runs but no cluster when first start all lights come on biut 30of running I get no bus and check engine but no codes will drive down Rd I have done the cluster test and they all will calibrate but then don't work when they are finished. No clue what to do now other than pull harness it all started after I changed heater core gages all worked for days afterwards then stopped. Would love to hear anything u have to put in on this project
Sorry about the late reply, I was away overseas. The no bus problem has a vast amount of possibilities. I'm no expert however, I would suggest as a starting point to check all engine sensors because they are the most likely and easiest to deal with. Crank position sensor being the usual problem. If not a sensor, now you move into the unknown. A bad connection, broken wire or corrosion on a connection. It could also be the PCM (computer). In the end my problem was a burned wire leading from the electric fan into the main harness.
I have a 2005 dodge magnum it’s reading NO BUS on my dashboard it runs and drives my windshield wipers don’t work or the radio my lights stay on my cluster doesn’t work my heat works tho I’m trying to figure out the issue
It was a short in the wiring harness. This whole problem started after the electric fan burned out. When that happened, one of the fan wires got hot enough to melt a few wires inside the harness in the area where the harness ran under the left bottom side of the radiator. From the outside the harness looked fine. But, if turned on the key, got no bus, get under the car and grab the harness and move it around, instantly the no bus disappeared and the motor would start.
@@dimimerhie2633 if it is working after knocking on it, it could be a loose connection or a corroded connection. It will be a matter of hunting down the problem.
@@dimimerhie2633 Before changing the PCM (computer) I would look at the connection going to the computer. I have heard of the pic connectors getting corroded. When checking connection you must be very thorough, I can't emphasize this enough. A friend of mine had similar problems and after checking connections three times discovered very fine corrosion in the pin connectors. Other things to look for are cracking on the outer wire coating. Think cracks let moisture get in and cause corrosion. Also, a loose ground wire or a ground that is connected to rust. Buying a new PCM can be costly. Also know the PCM has to be programed for your specific vehicle/motor combination.
For two years I've been battling this same exact problem. Thank God I found your video. I swear I thought I was alone and most people just couldn't understand. You don't know how many times I've heard "Why don't you just put it in a shop". For starters, once I buy a vehicle, it will never see a shop again, and I could do exactly what a shop would do, plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, Crank Position sensor etc. Minus the ridiculous labor rate a shop would charge. What always drove me crazy was hearing a solution, but it wouldn't make sense. I could R&R any part on my truck. But I just refused to do that if it don't make sense. In other words, I always would ask myself How would a ambient weather increase cause a certain part to malfunction and cause a crank no start condition. I've yet to find that answer, but I now at least have a few good paths that make sense to me. My key ignition has always been suspect as it's been flaky as long as I owned the truck. Also My aftermarket stereo has kinda been suspect mainly because the dash was damaged many moons ago when replacing the heater core. So the dash that holds that stereo is not very secure. But my gut feeling what I've always had but never heard other people with common experiences, is the wiring harness. Unlike frying the wires to the fan. Many years ago I lost my front left wheel well bulkhead splash guard. Living in California, where it seems were normally in drought mode, I didn't think much about it. But after reading through some comments it got me thinking and it kinda makes sense. I looked at my harness by the fuse box for a quick inspection and I quickly realized, water has been getting up in there because the harness is definitely weathered and it wouldn't surprise me if there isn't some intermittent corrosion going on around the harness close to the fuse box. Acting like a fried wire or relay, but different as corrosion or short being the problem. At least I feel like I'm on a good path that makes sense. I'm sure Allot of people like myself don't care to voyage down this rabbit hole. Make no mistake, this is a rabbit hole of the worst kind. If I find a solution, I'll definitely post it. Thanks to all that shared! Ralph 2000 Dodge Ram 5.9l 298K original miles⁴
Recently a friend seen my video and was telling me about a situation he had with a early 2000s Dodge pickup truck. Was having similar issues with the vehicle shutting down. He did the normal run down of all the sensors and visual wiring checks and found nothing wrong. He contacted a friend of his who worked for many years as a mechanic at a dealership and he was told to "check the harness". His exact words were "I mean really check the harness, look for cracks, corrosion and other flaws". So, my my friend did just that. It was winter time and he had a lot of time on his hands and he pulled the harness from the truck and took it in the house. He and his wife went over every inch of the harness and found 1 wire that was cracked. I should say the outer coating was cracked but, the wire inside was in one piece. However, after deciding to repair that section, upon cutting the wire they found massive corrosion inside the wire. Apparently, the wire had cracked and moisture leaked in and traveled down the inside of the wire coating. This then made him want to re-check the whole harness again. Eventually, he found two more similar spots. He also found corrosion inside of a few pin connections. In the end he never knew which spot was causing the problem. He put the harness back in and the engine fired up and has run fine to this day. The takeaway here is; if you think you looked close and you still can't find the problem "look really close". With that in mind many people don't have the resources or the time to do in depth searching and give up when all that is causing the problem is something as simple as a cracked wire, corrosion or a short. In the case of my friend's story he said the problem would have never been found if the harness wasn't removed from the truck.
I just put a pcm in my '02 4.7L manual transmission Dakota after watching a couple diagnostic videos. Now I'm getting 'no bus' videos recommended. My little truck just shut off out of nowhere a few times (electrical stayed on, engine cut out). I wiggled the pcm connector- #1 I think- and heard relays click, so I unplugged all 3 connectors from the computer and blew them out with contact cleaner followed by compressed air, plus visual inspection around the confuzer and the fuse block for rubbed-through wiring or any signs of corrosion. Nada. Next time it stalled out on the highway, so I started checking wiring when it was in the faulted state. Easy enough since by this point, a week into the symptoms, all I had to do to get it to f@%# up was turn the key on and wait a few minutes. I found that both powers and both grounds for the pcm were intact, I had my 5-volt reference at the throttle position and coolant temp sensors, and most importantly my scope showed normal activity on the pci pin meaning the bus line couldn't be shorted or open like the message on the dash was indicating. 90-ish miles in on a new pcm, when I couldn't even get out of my neighborhood last week.
@@Tomato41866 Yes! I've gone a few thousand miles with no issues. If you're getting "no bus" on the dash, your order of testing/inspection should be something like this: 1.) Find a wiring diagram that shows power distribution and grounding for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Make sure it's for your exact vehicle (for example, my 4.7L 4x4 is wired different than the California 4.7L 4x4, and they're both different than the 4.7L 4x2). The old Haynes/Chilton manuals didn't have the computer-related wiring diagrams I needed, so I ended up taking a screenshot of a YT video showing the diagram for my truck. 2.) Visual inspection of wiring between pcm, its connectors and the fuse block (Doge calls it the power distribution center, oo la la), you're looking for damage to the wiring or that distinctive 'green death' from corroded copper wires. 3.) If your vehicle is similar to my Dakota, your pcm has two power feeds and two grounds, both need to be intact (not more than 0.2 ohm resistance on the grounds, and full battery voltage on the feeds when the key is on) 4.) If power & ground are there, next you need to see if you have activity on the PCI bus line (the high-speed communication network that the "no bus" message is claiming is shorted or open, we need to see if that's true). You'll need an oscilloscope to see the data transfer across the line, with normal activity looking like this: _l''''l_l''''l_l''''l_____l''''l_l''''l_l''''l____ (square waves between 0-5V in little packets) and _abnormal_ activity looking like either like like a heartbeat, with irregular spikes and sloping lines instead of uniform, vertical lines between 0V and 5V (clean 'on'/'off' or '0'/'1' binary signals the computer can interpret) or a flat line at 0V __________. 5.) If you have those nice clean repeating square waves, you now know the CAN Bus is still up and the code on the dash is a lie, so now you just need to verify that you have 5V reference signals going from your sensors back to the confuzer. I chose the coolant temp. sensor and the throttle position sensor because they were easy to get to, jammed some T-pins in and saw nominal 5V (I think it was more like 4.5V or so, they're rarely exactly 5V but they need to be close) which means all the inputs to the computer are there. 6.) If you get this far, that means your pcm is getting all the right inputs: power, ground, communication from sensors and other modules in the network... congrats! You need a new confuzer. Got mine from Flashmasters for $375 (you'll get a 10% core charge back if you send them your old confuzer), they've been around a long time. If you're gonna tackle the diagnostics yourself, I'll be checking this comment thread in case you have any questions I might be able to answer. Good luck Thomas!!!
Dear fellows: When analyzing an electronics problem in your car, please consider all you are doing is counting with a healthy perfect electrical system ( battery, alternator, wiring, connectors, switches, and shiny perfect ground connections). What I imagine you are dealing with: a shorted rectifier diode, inside the alternator, will damage the battery. A damaged battery will upset operation in many modules. First things first. Dont pay attention to any computer codes until the car has a sound ELECTRICAL system, which is the platform for all computerized ELECTRONICS. I mean; take the alternator to the lab and test it for rated amps. Try to find a REAL battery ANALYZER in 2020 era of ignorants. If you can find one, make certain it is not internally shorted. If the mega stores won and you cant find a battery analyzer, buy a new one hoping the new one is not SHORTED ALSO. CUT OPEN battery primary wires. Sulfated blue o white talc is a good reason to discard the entire wire. Those wires should have terminals and those terminals (one eye connectors) should be shielded from atmophere to avoid generation of O3 the tri- oxigen known as ozone, a fast corrosion agent. Chassis / body /"alternator body" ground spots ( yes, those with female o male threads in the middle) should be silver shiny and covered with dielectric grease or better to avoid corrosion and ensure an enhanced electrical path. Reassemble. And you are ready for the Chrysler products, first step: take out the BCM computer and spray volatile contact cleaner and dry it with duster spray (almost freeze it). Then install / remove at least three times. Reinstall and re-assemble all and start the car. Usually voltages cause FI to inject economic amounts of fuel, more power, lower emissions, brighter front beams, transmission shifting great, and a lot of computer related " CODES" gone. If it keeps on the "no bus" indication on, it is a physical problem related to the bus circuit, not a basic electrical problem. If "Check Engine" is still on, the circuit to, or the sensor or an actuator generating the code, must be fixed first. All of this, as a general practice rule prior to any " ELECTRONICS" repairs. Victor Borges Automotive Electronics Technician ASE Certified Master Technician
Dam older thread, but good information. My 2000 just dies with the same symptoms. I do have the 5 volts. No bus on I/p Has code for iac for months, but ran. Have issue with cooling fan relay. Need to check inside power distribution box for damage. Have pcm on order and crank sensor. Any other ideas?
My problem all started when the electric fan shorted and burned the fan relay. Replaced the relay and awhile later it shorted again. This time the No Bus appeared and the motor shutdown. As soon as I pulled over and lifted the hood I could smell burnt wiring but found nothing. Then started this long process of checking all sensors an replacing the PCM and still having this problem you see in thus video. Turn the key... wait and sooner or later it will start and run perfectly. During all my searching on RU-vid I found a video where a Durango had a very similar problem as mine. Turn the key and wait and in cold weather his Durango started right away. Mine, in cold weather would start in about 30 seconds. Finally I had time (I work a lot) I found a hidden short in the wire harness under the left side of the radiator, where the electric fan wire join the harness. The wires were partially melted and that was causing a partial short. When the key was turned on the wires would eventually make a connection and the no buss would disappear. This short was inside the harness. The outside of the harness looked perfect.
@@richardsmithjr Thanks. I’ll check the harness. I did smell the burning slightly. Have not tried to let is set with key on, And see what happens. I will try that tomorrow. Thanks
@@dalev1319 how I found out about leaving the key on was purely be accident. I had a mechanic install the PCM. Pick vehicle, started fine. Next morning started fine. Went to leave work gor lunch and when I tried to start I got no bus. I called the mechanic and while we were talking I had the key on. We talked about 8 minutes and all the sudden the no bus went out and I started the engine. From that moment on it always gave no bus before starting. Please, keep in mind the reason I made this video is because my "no bus" situation was very different than most. Most often when you get no bus your engine will not start at all. But, it is worth a shot to see if it works. Also, keep in mind that with mine when the no bus went out a second or two later the gauges powered up and then it would start. If I waited more than 10-15 seconds after the power up of the gauges the power would die and no bus came back.
My 01 dodge 1500 5.2 was doing the exact same thing and after running all kinds of test with meters and oscilloscope showing everything is fine i change the pcm anyways and it fixed it, in these types of trucks the pcm is a very common thing for the solder points in the pcm to heat up due to it being position and mounted next to the motor, this cause it to have the interment problem when it heats up the solder points break contact giving the no bus and when cools down it will work again, but sensors and shorts in the wiring will cause the same like on this video so be sure to check all that first, and make sure its good you can before you replace the pcm, a simple way is to unhook the sensors and see if the no bus goes away (remember the vehicle wont start with certain sensors unhooked even if no bus is gone) after if not a sensor i would check for shorts and broken wires that are crossing or hotwire touching the frame, and if still nothing i would go for the pcm replacement. Hope this helps if you having same problem thanks
The only problem with this particular situation is that it’s not turning on. Going on 2 hrs. This happened yesterday and I managed to get home. Today not even close.
@@JoseCastillo-ye7je there are many different scenarios to the "no bud" problem. Many times the engine just won't start at all. My situation was rather unique (a short in the wire harness under the radiator area) and that's why I made the video. To my knowledge from what I learned, the place to start is the crank position sensor. Many people say that is the most likely culprit.. And then if that is not the problem you need to run down and check the other sensors on the engine.
@@JoseCastillo-ye7je You can also read through the many comments on this video to get some ideas as well. But keep in mind it's RU-vid and there are several comments that people have left that are just totally idiotic lol
Seen a guy on here fix his by replacing a faulty transmission shift solenoid, the old one was made of plastic and it would vibrate loose causing no ground and a no bus
As I have learned there are so many things that can cause the "No Bus" problem. Most no bus problems the vehicle will never start at all and then there are others who get no bus and the vehicle starts and runs fine but, they have no power to the gauges. In conclusion it is a problem that literally has to be traced looking at one thing at a time. Most mechanics start with looking at the sensors with the Crankshaft Position sensor being the number one culprit. In my case that you see here in this video it was a melted wire in the wire harness that was caused when the electric fan burned out (see notes in video description). We checked, rechecked and checked again every possible sensor, connection, ground point and so on. Even replaced the PCM with a new one. When that didn't work we tried a good PCM from another Durango... either way in the end it was a bad wire in the harness.
It was a short in the wiring harness. This whole problem started after the electric fan burned out. When that happened, one of the fan wires got hot enough to melt a few wires inside the harness in the area where the harness ran under the left bottom side of the radiator. From the outside the harness looked fine. But, if turned on the key, got no bus, get under the car and grab the harness and move it around, instantly the no bus disappeared and the motor would start.
Coil pick up tested good and PCM was replaced. In fact all sensors were checked. It was a short in the wiring harness under the radiator area. The electric fan shorted and ever so lightly melted 3 wires.
Well my 2001 Durango has the no bus how ever the car starts right away .. I don’t have to wait at all the thing here is that my headlights stays on (you can bearly notices) but enough to drain the battery … any help ?
If the motor will start it most likely isn't the PCM. It sounds like the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM controls all your inside switches. No guarantee but it's a good place to start.
Big plug in fuse box underhood with screw in middle screw has about 3/4 inch of threads cant tighten plug is comunication between pcm's still runs change screw and tighten fixed
Did you ever find out how to fix it because I have the same happened on A diesel truck which it has glow plugs light comes on please wait I can crank it after that light but the whole time and no bus is on please tell how you fix it
I wish I could tell you exactly what's wrong with it however, there are so many variables that can give the "no bus signal." With that said; if you're experiencing a similar problem like I had in this video where you have to wait, it very well could be a short somewhere in the wiring. The longer the power is running through the system eventually the short makes a connection. That is what was going on in my situation. After this video was made I found that when my electric fan burned out it had light burnt a wire in the harness that was causing the my problem. The wire looked good on the outside but was damaged on the inside.
I have a 99 Dodge Dakota rt and all the gauges went down with the no bus came on but still has all the power and runs like a champ still but no gauges work
Sound like the bus system is working under the hood but, not inside. I would check the connection on the back of the instrument panel or the BCM (body control module). PCM controls under the hood and the BCM controls inside the vehicle.
I can give all kinds of information on it but the people I told you have videos on that stuff can show you better then me telling you like this. Both of those people can be contacted and help you out give them a try.
Tap on your computer the board resistor is getting hot. I have seen it on several vehicles. Top on the computer and it will start. Tap again it shut off. Its a relay or resistor on the board. New level auto has videos on it.
