WERKS Parts LLC got its start by building custom modified clutch baskets for Suzuki V Strom and SV 1000 v twins. Unique in that ALL the machining, fabrication, assembly are done in one shop. Successes with the clutch basket work have led to other projects, all with the same personal dedication to making them the very best available. Anywhere. Videos here are meant to show some of the highlights of the clutch basket and other projects.
This was a great video but my heart sank when I went to the website and saw that you've retired. Any thoughts on reliable alternative suppliers would be appreciated.
Спасибо вам за проделанную работу!!! Очень жаль,что Zuzuki так и не захотели исправить и модернизировать это узел,он действительно очень нагружен по работе и нуждается в усилении и доработке!!! У меня V-strom 2015 года пробег 23.000т корзина сильно грохочет и добавляет вибраций,что не приятно:( Если бы производитель озаботился этой проблемной и выпустил корзину сцепления с усилениями и исправил все недочеты,я уверен они бы продавались с большой популярностью и отбили бы все затраты производства,так как,данный мотоцикл очень надежный и с большим ресурсом мотор. Вам большое спасибо за ваш труд!!!
Thank you for the detailed video, they are few and far between on the internet these days. A friend picked up an 03 dl1000. It wasn't well maintained before he got it and has higher milage, will mention your shop to him and that he should keep you clutch basket in mind,
hello, there is a difference of 1mm between the basket body (the length of the fit under the weakest spring in the body of the basket) and the groove in the gear, that is, the groove in the gear is 1mm longer, because of this there is free movement, should it be like this? or do something about it? at the same time, the weakest spring has a rod diameter of 4 mm, the rest are all the same, (gsx-r 750) The backlash is the same as in your video at 2:28
hello, there is a difference of 1mm between the basket body (the length of the fit under the weakest spring in the body of the basket) and the groove in the gear, that is, the groove in the gear is 1mm longer, because of this there is free movement, should it be like this? or do something about it? at the same time, the weakest spring has a rod diameter of 4 mm, the rest are all the same, (gsx-r 750)
I live in northern Ireland and have an SV 1000 I really like it,,but the clutch rattle just ruins the enjoyment,,I will look you up on the internet,, to see if you sell the modded basket,,☘️☘️☘️ from Belfast
No balancing. Not "balanced" at the factory. Too many moving parts to balance as an assembly. I did have one customer attempt to have this done....and found NO improvement at all for a LOT of time spent. My practice of centering all parts relative to the gear hub bore and trimming the anti balloon ring on exterior of the aluminum bell does seem to make the clutch baskets WERKS builds smoother than new ones.
I recently bought a 2003 SV1000 with just over 32,000 miles. I don't seem to have any of the symptoms of the chudder. Is there a way of inspecting the basket to see if you've already fixed it? The bike appears to have had good care taken of it, although I did have to do the fix on the flywheel magnets.
I machine the anti-balloon ring smooth on all the baskets I upgrade. So you might be able to get a flashlight and small mirror to look through the oil fill cap hole at the center/anti balloon ring on the basket. If that shows machining marks, it has been modified. There are modified baskets out there done by Sharealike in the UK that won't have this done to them. Some of those are well done, some are not ( main bearing clearance is all over the place with those). Otherwise you would have to pull the clutch cover and pull the clutch pack out. If yoiu see 3 threaded fasteners instead of rivets that clutch basket has been apart. You can also look for a Bronze bushing pressed into the main bearing area.
I have this problem on my 2014 V-Strom, and its ugly. Especialy the fact, that nobody in Czech Republic do that repair or tuning, you can just replace for new one, which is not what save situation for long time. Ill be so happy if somebody like you help me :( I dont want to change bike, iam Strom lover and got thirt liter already 😄
I have shipped my WERKS modified clutch baskets all over the world. I can help with yours too. Just contact my via the contact forms on the website or the e-mail address listed there.
I finally got the v strom together....I had this vicious overheat problem...im thinking that i failed to line up the impeller shaft with the key hole in the gear cause that baby broke right off...I thought it was the thermostat, then the electric temp switch. It took a few months to realize the impeller spun freely. Wait..is it supposed to do that? lol....Anyway, after Sir Terry re-did the clutch basked 6 months ago and today is the first day of riding it...and man o man, what a sweet heart is it!....It used to chug like a tank at lower RPMs. Now? nothing...Thanks to this gentleman....Kudos Terry..!!..From San Francisco....
Thank you for this video! I start to get weak once in a while about buying a newer vstrom 1050 but I can't take the chudder again. It drove me nuts. I'll look at 650 vstroms instead.
Nothing wrong with the 650 V stroms. I own one. But they are NOT to be compared to the new 1050 for an all around road bike. No comparison in braking, suspension, power, and you can get cruise control on them. Chudder? Well, the newer versions are a bit tighter and take a bit longer to chudder. But the WERKS modifications fix that so it never happens again. Every bike has something that needs fixed, upgraded, or changed. Hell, a new seat costs more than a WERKS modification!
This is likely due to the hydraulic clutch actuation system being neglected. These are self adjusting....but when not maintained they don't function properly. Flush out the system with fresh fluid and bleed it well. That usually helps and should be done annually.
Thanks for making this video. I am thinking to buy a 2022 or 2023 suzuki vstrom 1050. So this problem may occur in these late models? Would you recommend not to buy one? I appreciate your response, it will help me decide
While the new DL 1050 has basically the same design clutch basket as the first generation DL 1000, there ARE a few improvements. Mainly they tightened up the casting clearances ( takes longer for wear to get to the point noises and vibrations become noticeable) and finally machined the bearing surface of the steel gear ( ground finish instead of rough tooling marks ) so the steel doesn't eat into the aluminum quite as fast. I often see these with well over 20,000 miles now and no real obvious signs of chudder. So, this would in no way keep me from buying one of these bikes. Besides, should it come to needing a clutch basket upgrade, I can fix it so you won't need to do it ever again! All bikes have some inherent issues. This one is figured out and an easy fix.
@@werkspartsllc7856 Hey thank you very much for your response. I have been researching this bike for a long time and your advice really helps me in my decision to buy one. I kept hearing about the clutch basket problems here and there in video comments and then found your video. Thanks again, much appreciated.
Glad you enjoyed it! Not often you get to inspect something like this. BTW, the bike this came out of now has about 438,000 miles on it. Engine has never been apart!
I have not done engine internals before. I assume you don't need to remove the engine but it looks like you want to drain coolant and engine oil. Anything else need to be done prior to the install? Can you tell me the model number on your EBC removal tool? The only part that makes no sense to me is the "peening" of the piece of metal before and after you remove the clutch nut. If someone can elaborate more on that I would appreciate it. Thanks for the awesome video.
You do have to drain the oil and coolant. But you don't remove the engine. Simply remove the "clutch cover". In fact you don't even need to remove the water pump. "Peening" is the process of indenting a metal part to lock it in position. The clutch hub nuts are "peened" where the nut flange overhangs the grooves in the transmission input shaft. This keeps the nut from backing off. For removal you have to lift this peened down area to remove the nut. Then, once tightened, you peen down an area above the groove/slot in the transmission shaft to again lock it into place.
I have a 2003 dl1000, and the chudder is bad and it only has 45k kilometres on it. I’m in Canada and I’d like to get it fixed if possible but I’m no mechanic. What should I do?
Go to the website www.werksparts.com first. Look over the details to learn about what is going on. It also covers the 3 ways to get the WERKS upgrades for your 2003 Vee. There is an installation video and an FAQ page that will answer many questions. Then send an e-mail to info@werksparts.com with further questions and if ready to proceed send shipping info and what parts you need.
Hi, Sorry for the irrelevant question but I have a 1050 XT model from 2020 with about 9000 miles on the clock and the clutch slipping severe above 4,500 rpm when open full and hard the throttle. Any idea where to look first? I took it to the dealer and tells me bsh!t Thanks in advance 🙏
Are you sure the clutch is slipping? Does the tachometer rpms raise quickly when this happens? If so then there are two areas to look into. First is the clutch slave cylinder and pushrod that goes into the input shaft of the transmission ( in front of the front sprocket). Those can get covered in oil, grease, and road debris and cause the piston in the slave and the pushrod to stick. This does not allow full pressure from the pressure plate. Next is the slipper assembly. 2014 and up have a slipper inner hub design. I don't have much experience with them, but if there is a broken part or something out of place it could cause this too.
@@eugenemorozov Slipping isn't part of a clutch basket problem. Typically that is going to be caused by a pushrod not returning properly, or a slave cylinder not retracting fully under certain conditions. Aftermarket clutch levers are a known cause of causing slipping too.
@@eugenemorozov Below is my update-answer from the fb group Vstrom 1050. I tried the bike today,on a long ride on twisty b roads ,pushing the 3rd and 4th gear hard all the time,up to the rev limiter. Thi slippage completely disappeared,making me even more angry for the local Suzuki's technicians. I need to have two words with them also 🤬 The problem was the clutch's push rod.All this sh*t glogged the clutch and wasn't fully returning when releasing the clutch, resulting clutch slipping. The amount of the debris,old grease, road filth in the area was incredible. When I took it to the dealer and I told him that this might be the reason for the clutch slippage,they looked at me like the cow in the field watching the trains passing by 🤣🤣🤣 .They only changed (and charged) the clutch fluids and then suggested that I pay and change the clutch disks.The bike has 14.000km of extremely easy riding... I hope the clutch stops slipping now 😀 If anyone tries this,be careful of the rubber "sock" that protects the cylinder from the debris (it can be cut easily if not careful) ,and drain out all the clutch fluid as the cylinder will pop out if you don't...
I find incredible that Suzuki didn't make a recall, and replaced with a new revised part. I've had a brand New k5 Sv1000, and with just 20 thousand kilometres, it developed a horrible vibration from the clutch. I've send it to the dealer at least 5 times, and the mechanic keep saying that it was normal... Men, I sold that bike so cheap, just to get ride of it. I was a die hard fan of the brand ( I've owned 4 Suzuki's before the SV), but after that SV, I won't ever, ever spend my hard earned money on another Suzuki again!
I did exactly the same after owning an 2016 dl1000. It developed an horrible an chudder. And mechanic told that it was normal. Sold it.... I will never buy Suzuki again.
@phil884 Same. I absolutely loved my SV1000, such a fun bike, but the vibration was horrible and after finding out this is the cause I sold it and wont buy another. R1 will be my next bike.
I have a 2012 650 with 71,000 miles on it and just bought a 2014 1000 with 11,000 on it for a back up which will eventually be the 650's replacement. The 1000 is fine at this time but I'm thinking just go ahead and make the upgrade and be done with it while the 650 is still going strong. I keep my bikes for 100k and at my age this 1000 will most likely be my last one. I be dammed if I want to think about when is the chudder going to start every time I ride it. Guess you would call this a piece of mind fix.
Nothing wrong with upgrading the clutch baskets in the 2014+ DL 1000/1050. These typically go longer before developing chudder than the first gen bikes...usually closer to 20,000 miles. So you have time to decide if you want to get the upgrade done.
Hi, I saw several of your videos about the suzukis sv1000s clutch basket and I want to tell you that I have the same problem, could you solve it or if I could buy you one that you already have? I am looking for someone serious who knows how to do it and until now I have not found him. Please answer me. I am writing to you from Barcelona Spain
Most any motorcycle shop ( Independent shops as well as Suzuki and some other brands ) will be glad to do an installation of a WERKS modified clutch basket. You will simply have to contact those in your area to find one you feel comfortable with. Typically they are going to charge 2-3 hours labor to do this job. I sell a lot of new OEM baskets with WERKS modifications to international customers. No return shipping or shipping your basket to me required. Take as much time as needed to install them. Currently a new OEM SV 1000 clutch basket with Standard Level build service costs $655 US. Add $75 shipping to Europe to that ($730 US total shipped ).
@@werkspartsllc7856 I need the piece rectified in its entirety for you, the assembly will be done in my workshop. I just need you to do the work of eliminating all the gaps. or exchange my piece for one that you already have rectified, paying you all the work. Can you do it? Thank you
OK. So I never leave comments on RU-vid. But I had to make an exception. Thank you so very much Terry. Everything from placing the order to the super fast response time and even faster shipping was a pleasure to do business with you sir. And this video was the topping on the cake. Having a step by step walk through of disassembly and reassembly made this job a breeze. I asked Terry for everything I would need. And he delivered. An absolute must if you have the clutch chudder of the vtwin I have a 2003 sv1000s with only 13k on it. But the chudder made riding a choir. I received the werks basket and installed it today. The bike runs better than new. The chudder is completely gone and the low end torque is back. An absolute breath of fresh air into my bike. Thank you sir Terry. 100% recommend Werks Baskets. Don't second guess it. Pull the trigger....
Thanks Terry! Just installed the new werks basket taking my time especially on the gasket surfaces, took just under 3hrs. Chudder is completely gone and the motor purrs again! The dedication to your craft is greatly appreciated Sir.
All the DL 1000-1050 baskets are "interchangeable". I use the 31Y11 and 31Y20 clutch baskets when I sell the new OEM modified baskets to all DL customers. I do prefer them over the older design, but they do NOT fix chudder or main bearing wear. I simply like the heavier top spring plate on them....
Hi. Why did you choose screws over riveting the plate? Would that screws hold a bigger power than DL1000? like for example R1, GSXR1000, ZX10RR, S1000RR? I'm interested in making a colab with you, but we're from Europe
Rivets are ok for a high production facility watching costs closely. They can have one machine set up to do the riveting with little labor or cost involved. High strength threaded fasteners take more time, labor, and money to use. Casting must be threaded. Threaded fasteners are more expensive to purchase or make. more labor involved to start the threads and torque them to a specification. The downfall to rivets is that they are a softer steel. The must be to allow the expansion of one end to seal the rivet in place. Rivets do not hold the parts together with the same compression strength that a threaded fastener can and does. So there will be an amount of "fretting" from the not so tight fit between these parts. Cost of fasteners isn't a big part of the cost of building a WERKS clutch basket. The fact that the threaded fasteners I use have both a higher compression tension loading AND a higher shear force rating is the main reason they are used over rivets. I could set up a press to rivet these, or like some weld on them to finish them, but the fact is that the threaded fastener is a better, stronger, and more precise way of reassembling these clutch baskets.
Thanks Terry as I was able to install your clutch basket correctly and the bike now feels like new again. Had to watch video a couple of times making sure all was put together correctly but with it, a success all the way.
@@noedelacruz5910 You can send in your current basket. Usually takes one business day for the modifications. I also have an exchange program where I ship you a basket built on a good used core. You install that one and ship back your old one as the core. Last, I have new OEM baskets that have had the full WERKS modifications done to them.
I have a 2020 1050 with 30 000kms..roughly 18 000 miles. Just did a run to the arctic circle. The basket makes horrible noise. I'm in the east coast of Canada. Can you ship to me?
I'm so grateful for the work you do. You transformed my sv1000 from an annoyance to an absolute joy. Keep it up! What you did to my clutch basket was worth every penny.
Idle Hammer is not related to the clutch basket. Some might think it is, as idle hammer will soften or go away sometimes on some bikes when you pull in the clutch lever. BUT....that only changes the load on the crankshaft ( which is what makes the idle hammer noise ). Clutch chudder is a vibration in these bikes in the 2500-4000 rpm range mainly. It can be a rather harsh vibration actually causing body panels to vibrate! There are also noises associated with worn baskets. A tinny sounding metallic slapping noise at idle is a common sign the inner plate ( as shown in this video ) is loose and slapping back and forth.
Even so...the 650's to on occasion require clutch plate replacement. Usually due to incorrect adjustment, but if used hard off road they can be short lived too. This isn't a 650, but they have a similar setup so many things still apply.
Thank you! When I set out to do this video I was getting e-mails or calls about every day from owners having issues with clutch basket installation. The video dropped that to maybe 5 times a month! So I know it helps and I am glad to help. I need to do one on the later 2014 and up models.
this is the single most helpful video on clutch baskets in the internet. Is there a lot of difference for the 2014+ models ? it will be great if you do :)
@@danielfalin Aside from the difference in the body work and getting to the radiator cap and reservoir tank, the only real difference is in the inner hub assembly. The 2014+ DL 1000 has a very nice "slipper or back torque limiting" hub/pressure plate assembly. These give a MUCH lighter lever pull and have some other benefits as well. So far they seem to hold up well, but these models are much more sensitive to having the hydraulic clutch components working in tip top shape. They are known to have some issues with the plates dragging even with the clutch lever pulled in.
@@werkspartsllc7856 Hoping to get some advice. On the highway wide open throttle, my clutch is slipping. Only 18k miles on bike. I have already cleaned the rod behind slave cylinder, as this was all gunked up. Are there other adjustments that I can try before calling the clutch done?
@@rocketj7449 Assuming this is an SV or DL 1000...Have you installed aftermarket levers? Those are a VERY common cause of clutch slippage problems. Cleaning the pushrod is good. Checking it for straightness is good too! Next up is the slave cylinder. These can get gunked up too. Which causes them to not fully retract....and the clutch slips. If it is corroded/gunked badly I would replace it. Some that have a good piston and bore can be rebuilt...but the cost for the kit isn't too cheap and the whole assembly isn't really high in cost.
The 2014+ models are different than what is shown. Check a service manual if you have a 2014 or newer. Basically the last three plates get installed into the clutch pressure plate and the last plate you put into it gets rotated so it will go into the short slots in the basket. My 2014 it smoother and quieter after the install.
Thank you for a really clear instruction in replacing the clutch basket. I have a dl650 and when I release the clutch when in neutral, I can hear a rumbling noise, It reminds me of a thrust bearing type of rumble, I can see there are a couple of bearings the larger bearing behind the basket, and the smaller bearing right near the end of reassembly, could it be one of these bearings, or maybe something else within the clutch assembly? The noise only started recently, I may be a little paranoid, because when I hear it, I can’t help but think it’s getting louder! Does anyone have any thoughts about what may be going on here? I can’t imagine after 20,000 miles the clutch would be worn to the point it’s causing any major issues, or could it? The year model is 2008 and I have owned it a couple of years, I have probably rode a couple of thousand miles in this time. Thanks again for a very clearly explained and demonstrated vid 👍
Andy, I rather doubt your noises are associated with the clutch basket. Two things to remember. First is that when you pull in the clutch lever , the clutch basket does NOT stop turning! It is mechanically connected to the crankshaft gear and if the engine is turning, so is the clutch basket. Second is that there are a lot more bearings, gears, and shafts spinning in the transmission that slow or stop when you pull in the clutch lever. Even with a modified basket, it will always be a bit quieter when you pull in the clutch lever. All those rotating parts make a bit of noise and slowing or stopping some of them simply makes less noise. Transmission bearing issues are almost non existent on these bikes. I would listen to another DL 650 to see how it sounds. I suspect your noises are quite normal!
I cannot say what the "whine" is without listening to it. But it can be any number of things. I highly doubt it is coming from the clutch basket. The DL 650 is a completely different design and shows virtually none of the issues the design of the DL 1000 can give. Under load....tends to make me think it is simply gear meshing noise.
@@werkspartsllc7856 I wasnt sure if it was a bearing related issue, ive only just got the bike so still learning about its 'quirks' :), thanks for replying
I've got a 2006 DL1000 with 19,000 miles on it and it has pretty bad chudder. What happens if I just keep riding it? Is catastrophic failure waiting to rear its ugly head in the near future, or is it just a performance and comfort issue? Thanks.
Not a catastrophic failure! At that mileage it is just getting bad and will get worse. But they don't explode or cause you to trailer it home. Call it performance or comfort, but it changes how you ride the bike. You miss the rpm range where these bikes really shine by keeping them above 4000 rpm. You can install a new OEM basket, but once you know what chudder feels like you will see it start in by 10,000 miles most of the time. Install a WERKS modified basket and you should never need to worry about your clutch again.