You're right! There are lots of good designs out there. Part of the puzzle is working in different material constraints. For example, for HPM01 we determined to use only materials from our local scrapyard, to show these can be built using junk parts.
Great question! I don't have good data, but my understanding is a direct chain can bump up efficiency by 5~10% over a friction drive (ballpark from 85% to 95% mechanical power transfer, ignoring losses in converting to electricity.) In hindsight I'm wondering if the simplicity of the friction drive outweighs the marginal improvement of the direct drive.
@@McGuireMechanism I was thinking the same thing. By the time you get the chain swapped over and everything hooked up for direct drive maybe the friction drive would still be worth it since you can just throw the bike in and go. Would be an interesting thing to calculate over a certain time period!
I have a massive collection of standard and custom sprockets from my scooter business. Unfortunately, my entire shop melted in the neighbors tire fire last October and I lost almost everything...except the sprockets which are just rusted from the fire fighting efforts. These sprockets are for #25, 1/2" bicycle, #35, 8mm, #40, and many others. Many custom hubs because I had a mill and lathe to just make what I needed, which also burned in the fire. I can't sell them at retail because of the rust, (some are stuck together in plastic bins) but I would gladly sell them all to someone who needs them. I would give them away if I weren't broke. I can send some pictures and if interested make a deal on the entire collection.
Option omitting fancy ball thing. At 1:02 you show a barrel in simplicity with screen and downspout coming straight on it. You should've also shown that, and cutting the top hole, fastening screen, etc.
Great question! No, the sizing is correct as specified. The 3/4" dimension of the 3/4-14 NPT hole indicates the inside pipe diameter. Accounting for the pipe wall thickness and threads, the 7/8" pilot bit is SMALLER than the major diameter of the 3/4" NPT hole.
Hi, I have a small question. I am connecting two steel plates together with a self-drilling screw. I wanted to just drill the two plates through at once, but I was told that I should make a pre-drilled clearance hole at the top plate and then just drill through the second plate so that the two plates would stick together more tightly. Is that so? Which method is more common in real steel structure construction?
Great question! In steel construction, yes the second method (clearance hole in the top plate) is far more common. The fastener in your case is clamping the two plates together. By virtue of having a clearance hole, the screw pulls the bottom plate up as it tightens. If the threads are forced into both top & bottom plates, then their relative positions are set and they cannot clamp together without the threads "fighting" between top/bottom.
I started working at a furniture store recently and one of the things we do regularly is tie down large loads to vehicles using baling twine. This is the exact technique we use. I have all of these steps down except for the last step. How do you tie a square knot when one of the lines is completely straight and unmovable? I'm used to the type of square knot in shoelaces where both lines have loose ends, so I'm not sure how to tie it with just one loose line. I'm trying to learn either a halter hitch or a taut-line hitch to replace the square knot, but to no avail. Really, anything simple could help me out.
Great question! Try tying your shoes using only your right hand (just keep the lace in your left somewhat tight, straight up or off to the side.) This way, you start with a familiar application. By muscle memory, you might see how your right hand just loops its lace around your left hand's lace, then underneath itself, then tightens to the left. It's the same idea with a trucker's hitch shown here, only the lefthand "lace" is tied to an anchor point.
Hi, I am from Zambia . A soon to be mechanical engineering graduate All I wanna say is, Please keep up with such content. You are doing the world a Great service! I also appreciate the references provided Thank you so much!
Guess why NASA and most american science institutions use METRIC. Yes, for some specific job IMPERIAL could be slightly better, but if you ask the sharpest minds in the US, most will prefer metric.
Metric is a good system, and it has it's place: EVERYWHERE. - I've learnt imperial first on an americal school and then forgot it completely. The simple fact that you need a sheet to explain it proves the point. - It is also not correct that imperial only uses multiples of 12. If was at least consistant, it would be better, but that's not the case.
Good on you sir for making these points and defending the imperial system. Here in the uk we’ve sold out to the metric on-slaught. But the imperial just won’t go away and so it is necessary to be familiar with both. We are proficient at both but expert at neither.
@@McGuireMechanism I wanted to state another warning from the UK. Our plywood still comes in 4 x 8ft sheets. In metric this is 1.22m by 2.44m. The drywall manufacterers here in Europe have, in their wisdom, decided to make their drywall sheets a simpler 1.2m by 2.4m, which is about an inch smaller than the imperial plywood. This means that when the carpenter comes to layout his studs, he has to make them fall an inch shy of a full width of plywood in order for his drywall joints to fall on a stud. But now all his plywood sheets have to be cut down by about an inch in order work. All because the metric system hasn't been developed out of any practivcal application, and so they're bending the practical to fit their abstract idea. Another note and then I'll stop. A regular internal door is still 6'6" by 2'6" but these are sold as 1981 x 762mm. Everyone remembers the imperial dimension but not the metric (for obvious reasons) but some carpenters, siduced by the "metric now" propaganda, have got themselves metric only tapemeasures, so you literrally hear guys asking "how big is a 2'6" door?"
@@briefoutlines4505 Nicely put. Such interesting examples! Haha and I just ran into a some rectangular tube (a hollow structural section) named HSS254x152.4x12.7 (254 mm wide x 152.4 mm high x 12.7 mm thick,) then after a calculation I realized that's just a standard 10" x 6" x 1/2"! And I just discovered your channel. Enjoying the thought experiments.
Clarification: Hydrostatic pressure is a function of the water SURFACE location. The height of the working fluid volume's centroid could be used to calculate the AVERAGE hydrostatic pressure available between full and empty.
Metal roofs you dont have that yucky taste from the asphalt roof if you want potable clean water of course a fine mesh filter to keep bugs out. Why not have some way to divert overflow to a manmade pond or plants animals etc
I use a way-easier method. I use a PVC pipe cut on a bias @ 45° with a circle of nylon window screen segmented so the perimiter can be folded over the edge and glued to the outside surface of the pipe. The bottom of that inlet pipe is clamped to the drum inlet. Rainwater carrying debris hits that slanted screen, and the water goes through, but debris rolls off onto the (ultimately) ground. I pull (use) water from a pipe capped at its lowest end, through a hole drilled about 3 inches from the end, which touches the bottom of the barrel. This forms a "settling" area for sand and other tiny stuff that makes it through the window screen.
To prevent excessive leakage, try using a bicycle inner tube heat shrunk to fit the gap and over the hinge part, have a half inch overlap that you can use a plastic clothes drying pin to hold than in place, this way when you need to access the area, lift up the pin, take off the inner tube and it’s easy
Neat idea! Leakage hasn't been an issue yet, as the water seems to want to go straight down, but I will definitely remember your tip for sealing, thanks!
This is one of the best simpler water collections I've seen.I'm just beginning my Homestead here in New Mexico. I greatly appreciate at this video.✌🏽🙌🏽💧💧💧
Thank you, Renee! One upgrade to this design is a quick pivot to access the screen filter. Here is a video for that modification: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gbu9gWmTb2M.html Best wishes on your new homestead :)
Hi Billie - taking a quick look, there are U.S. companies manufacturing rain water tanks. This example here is a budget DIY example, showing how you can use an $18 recycled drum.
Yes! Great point! As long as they are connected in parallel, they can drain together through one spigot. I like my barrels to be modular, so if I wanted I could pull one out and I'd still have a complete system.
Yes! Of course you can but it might take longer. A big factor is correct grinding of drill bits and keeping them sharp at all times. We might even look for a hand-operated pillar drill like the Goodsell-Pratt manufactured, I think, somewhere between 1890 and 1930. Good hunting!
I bought one of these back in 1989 and I am shocked at the price now exacted! A weak point is the arrangement for raising and lowering the quill which rapidly broke. The original is not a good design in my view and it looks like with my example they goofed up back in the factory. I am working on a solution with does not require a lathe but have a few points to tidy up. On the plus side, there is a 3/8" chuck and I had to replace the original springs: fiddly for an old guy but got there in the end. Another point to note is there is actually very little room to drill if using standard length bits. At a push, it looks that if you remove the little round table and remount the whole machine you could drill almost to the centre of the Earth as long as you have a bit long enough!!! Best regards - Jozef
The big drill is commonly called a breast drill. Millers Falls and Goodell Pratt made a lot of them. The smaller drill is commonly known as an eggbeater drill. Yours is a single pinion gear design. The better versions have two pinion gears which help eliminate racking while drilling.
Oh, that loop should be a "directional 8" knot. The bends in the figure of 8 knots equal to greater than 3/4 of the ropes diameter, thus retaining 80% of the rope's strength. I assume from the looks of the rope you used, it was a dynema or a synthetic blend with a small core count?
Interesting! So much to learn. I'm no knot expert haha - this is just one that I learned way back when and use all the time, so I wanted to share :) I grab synthetic or cotton ropes at 6 mm or 1/4" and swap them out when they start to feel flimsy or stiff.
Time management is procrastination and then blaming everyone else on top of requesting deadline extensions. In all seriousness, great tips. Creating a pipeline helps tremendously, along with ensuring that your capacity is never scheduled at the maximum to prevent burnout.
Being a Eurupean (Danish) metric person i like your argumentation for imperial. Especially when it comes to length measurement. But when it comes comes to the lengt, weight, mass combination i think metric is easyer, and more precise. But when i did reparement in my old house i often used an old danish ruler with old danish "tommer" (not quite equal to an inch, but same principle). My house was before wood construction in denmark turned metric
A friend of mine built a whole rally car in his lock up with just a hand operated drill as there was no electricity and cordless drills had not yet been invented. Lighting was by Tilley lamp and because he had very limited funds he concluded that to be competitive he had to "add lightness" (Colin Chapman) that meant cutting all excess lengths on bolts and superfluous material away, which he collected in a bin and had weighed in for scrap being 50kg of weight saving!
Found and old hand drill in a corner in an attic in an old house I rented years ago .Along with two handfuls of 1' FDR buttons. Have the handdrill to this day ,absolutely love it.
Do you find that with the lower rpms that you don't need to apply any oil during the drilling process? I think these types of tools are great to have on hand in the event there was no power source to use a modern drill.
Yes! For sure. The metal stays cooler so oil is not required. After a few trial runs, I found that with a low gear, I could steadily drill through metal bars easily. No dull bits. I wasn't able to get those nice spiral chips like you get with a drill press or mill though, I'm guessing cause of the jerky motion of hand-crank cutting.
