Ya. . . Id say steering shaft bearing. Known issue on these. $30 from an autoparts store. You'll have to remove the bolt from the intermediate steering shaft, and seperate it to get at it. Its right above your gas pedal. 15mm & 13mm if i remember correctly
My 2002 Tahoe was broken into and the alarm never went off, I have upgraded to a viper alarm system but it still doesn’t go off when it should plus I don’t ever see any door ajar messages when the door opens except for rear trunk lid. Would replacing this fix that?
Honestly no clue on this one. My guess is if the latch mechanism isn’t registering with the BCM then maybe. But aftermarket alarms are their own can of worms.
@@West1134 yeah I want to think it’s a faulty security system but I remember testing to see if the factory one would go off and it didn’t, but the lights will still turn on when a door opens so I’m really confused on what’s going on
So I’m having similar issues with three different doors that have all popped up in the last week, one rear door and both front, alarm has gone off once. You mentioned a faulty BCM, would that be more likely than all three door switches going out at the same time?
I would think so yes. To my understanding these sensors relay the msg back to a body control module (BCM) which then interprets that to set off the alarm etc. My suggestion would be to find a wiring diagram and see if you can trace where the BCM is and test. Another possible avenue is a low battery. I’ve read tons on low voltage creating all sorts of gremlins! Get your batteries tested as a good first and easy troubleshooting step.
When i hit a bump in my 2010 Tahoe i hear rattling from the door. Then it reads door ajar. People have told me to move my striker back a tiny bit and to replace my door seals. I just want to fix it so i can sell it for something smaller and it doesnt sound good when someone is test driving it. Any advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Could this also cause problems for the doors to lock and unload on their own? Can it also cause other problems with the windows not waning to roll down or go up when they are supposed to?
I don’t think this module would affect the symptoms you have. It did make my doors lock/unlock at times because the sensor was failing while I was driving (ie you shift into park and it locks the doors) but nothing to do with the windows.
Thank you for the information. There is another video dealing with this door light switch by Jason Golden which shows how to remove corrosion from the contacts on the back of that plastic gear. Both very informative unless your plastic gear is broken.
@West1134 Thank's for the video. My issue is the driver's door. Constant message in the dash "driver door ajar" and sometimes as I roll up to speed the door locks actuate a dozen times. Would the driver door be the same part number as passenger door?
Same exact symptoms on my Suburban so switched out part and it's still doing it. Found one for under $40 cheaper part. Wouldn't think a cheaper part would cause the same symptoms though. It's annoying.
Problem is fixed. I had replaced my master window switch a while back with a cheaper Chinese one because the button pad was worn and that's when it started. There were a couple of other issues with the switch. Everything works great now. I will still buy cheaper parts because I saved $140 trouble shooting with the cheap door lock actuator and the Chinese window switch that had crappy electronics I managed to salvage the button pad from and got my old window switch working good again.
@@chewy98ta28 I have an 07 Classic Silverado. I added power folding mirrors but the right mirror adjust had been broken for a while and it did not operate the power mirrors. I bought a Chinese master window switch. It operates the mirrors fine but the truck thinks the drivers door is ajar. I though perhaps I jammed the latch during door panel installation so I ordered another and installed it. The problem is still there-Driver's door ajar. Do I need to try another manufacturer for the master window switch?
@@TheModelmaker123 I ended up putting my original MPS back in but I took the contact pad out of the Chinese MPS first and put it in my original and that took care of the door ajar issue and the buttons work fine except the door lock switch but I just lock it with my key FOB.
Hey great vid ! Anyone know if cutting the pink and black wire going to my bcm and just capping them off will cause me problems ? I did it to get rid of my door adjar warning light that will never go away due to me cutting my barn doors off and bolting on a lift gate door ..
Thanks for the upload. The door ajar notification comes on, in my information center while I'm driving but my dome lights aren't coming on. I'm pretty sure it's the same switch. Over 200 for a switch, dang.
Does your dome light come on when you truly open the door? If not, I know my truck has an override button to disable it. Yours might be set to not have dome light on which is why it isn’t happening. I believe it’s all integrated in that same switch. And yeah it’s spendy.
@@West1134 I think I did disable it on the light control when it first started. So yeah, I'm fairly sure that's where my power draw is coming from. Brand new battery dead within 2-3 days. The alternator works fine. Something is causing the drain. I'm fairly sure it's that switch
@West1134 I'm not much of a car guy so this video is extremely helpful, thanks. If I don't care if the car locks or not (which I don't) can I just unplug the latch or does that send something to the BCM that will continue this problem? Thanks again!
Did the door courtesy light stay on? Awesome that’s the issue. I’m having with mine but don’t light won’t turn off and the driver door courtesy light stays on even while driving I just had to remove chain. It was driving me crazy!!
Yes. My issue was the door courtesy light stayed on plus when it would work I’d lock the truck then the part would fail again and set off the alarm since the truck (falsely) “sensed” the door was opening. Part resolved all issues.
I don’t have a video but it’s pretty straight forward (at least for the cab mounts, which is what I did vs also doing the radiator mounts etc). Basically, you get a wood block and a vehicle jack. You loosen & remove the bolts holding the body mounts then use the jack to slightly raise the cab. Pull out the old body mount, replace with new then replace bolt.
Off the top of my head I think it was 10W30. I just matched whatever oil came with it, and kept the little bottle to fill from the bigger bottle of oil so it was easier to measure, and pour in.
This was exactly what I was looking for. I bought a similar kit for my Silverado and did not want to run power all the way to the battery. I will poke around on the 7 pin connector for the trailer and see if I can find a constant 12v somewhere. Thank you!
Found the "red and black" wire, pulled the fuse that runs to it, used one of those crimp/splice taps to get power for the LEDs, replaced the fuse, drilled a ground connection on the frame near where I spiced the positive, and it works perfect. Not too sure if I am going to keep the switch that runs this thing, but for now I used hot glue to hold it to the side of the bed. Also used hot glue to try to keep the wires from wiggling and wearing through the insulation. So far, so good. Thanks again for the assist!
Aftermarket with LED DLR's, and HID low beams. The headlight kit he bought (linked above) failed about 6 months ago, where the driver for one of the low beam HID's quit working and they were hard wired to the unit and couldn't be replaced so you had to buy a whole new headlight. The plastic also was flaking and looking cloudy due to UV damage as these aftermarket headlights didn't have a protective film. So rather than throw money at it, he returned it to stock, and then a short while later his sunroof seal started leaking damaging his headliner, and he ultimately got rid of the car for something else. He told me there is a different company that sells a very similar kit with all LED low, DRL, high beams, UV protection, etc. for about $300 more, so not cheap but you get what you pay for. I don't recall the brand/company though.
