Worst advise ever. Do not balance your models on wood pegs. There needs to be foam in-between your plane & the peg. Adding weight should be a last resort. Move your battery before adding weight. 👍🏻
But I am not getting straight strips ,not cutting in equal length . What am I doing wrong ? could you please help me how to cut 1/20 inch strips in straight
If you would like to see the on-board footage from the Tiger-Moth then check out Mark Croucher's video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QAfn1pxayzE.htmlsi=WS_FCGqtreLDchGI
Well done excellent instructions. As someone brought up on diesels and later to glows I hope you have de mystified the process for new converts. I accept electric is the future but my heart goes with internal combustion.😊
Hi Tony, great to hear from you. Unfortunately due to pilot error (i.e. 100% my fault!) I lost control of MB in the glare of low sun. photos.app.goo.gl/nYBWn8wCj4xdvXbf6 I was gutted. But I still have the plans, plus the plans for the Lowbo. So I might build another. Have you been doing any designing and building lately?
Hello Connor ,nice to hear from you . Re designs no Aircraft have had about six simple steam engine designs published in the model engineer magazine. Haven’t flown for years due to medical conditions ! I’m mainly into electronics now ,building vintage radio control items . Single channel etc great fun . Do have a go at the lowbo flys a treat best regards Tony .
Well I know this was years ago, but I still have a question. From someone who knows nothing about woodwork, how did you hold the wooden door frame together? Did you glue it or nail it? I can’t tell from the video. Many thanks if you do see this and reply after all these years 😀
nice video, i need watchmakers glasses, i cant see anything even with my glasses, I didn't know you have to twist the stubs, but some stubs are on view, so twisting is no good so folding them looks neater.
Hello, this is a good video for lots of guys! Two small comments though: (1) your method assumes that both 2 and 3-bladed props must generate the same thrust in the end. (2) the dependency of the prop thrust on pitch is less than the power of one. From experimental data published in RC Groups, thrust changes with D^3.5 * P^0.5 as opposed to D^3 * P.
Hi, you make good points, and there is a huge amount of debate on the forums on the topic of PLF. Most RC pilots change diameter or pitch choice depending on how they want the plane to perform, so even after these calcs are done there is still room for manoeuvre. The debate continues...!
@@piratelechuck1911 It is not nitromethane. Glow fuel consists of mostly methanol, some oil, and 5-30 % nitromethane( 5-20% is fine for most engines) The nitromethane aids combustion when combined with the rhodium element of the glow plug. Some glow engines will run with FAI fuel which is 0% nitromethane, and the 30% is primarily for helis and some cars. “Nitro” is just a buzzword that developed in the RC car community, and was derived probably from top fuel drag racing speak.
@@piratelechuck1911 Nitrotane is a brand of glow fuel produced by Losi, a popular RC car brand. It’s blend makeup is just as I described. Again, they are using the word Nitro in their name because it is a popular buzzword.
Good morning so I have a question for you. I have an FYP 51 1.5 that comes with a four blade propeller. I am trying to put a two blade propeller and I am unsure of the size that I want to use so that this will run properly maybe you can help.
Really nice introduction to the basics of glow engines. I think a great service would be to shoot a video (or a series of them) for the person possibly interested in glow engines for model airplanes. My first question would be is every internal combustion engine used by a model plane a glow engine? Are there other types of fuel engines that model airplanes use? If a person had to keep their plane inside their house and not their garage would an internal combustion engine stink the place up? Are their different sizes of glow engines?
Desde Colombia, sr. O´neill sería estupendo compartieras los planos de este avión para poder fabricarlo tal y como lo explicas; es una excelente experiencia el armado de este hermoso modelo... Gracias por compartir sus videos
Good thing to catch before the maiden. Some suggestions to consider: 1. run a taught string to check the alignment a bit more accurately, just to be sure it isn't an illusion from the pushrod tube coming out of the fuseleage there. 2. Is the vertical stab. Warped? Or just set crooked. 3. Are you absolutely sure you can't fly it first to feel it out? That said, cutting a resetting is pretty low risk I suppose. 4. Have fun! Looks like you already are. :)
Thanks David for the suggestions. I'll definitely run with your string idea, it'll also help me align the fin when I reset it. I don't believe it's warped but will check before I take a saw to it! I'm hoping for a smooth first flight, and I would hate to have it crash from a problem I knew about!
Conor, I've been flying 36 years and I've never built a plane from a kit, all arf set ups. My very first plane was a kit but I didn't build it. That was in 1986, it was called a Yamamoto trainer 40. This video has wet my appetite for buying a kit plane as a challenge over the coming Winter. Many thanks for sharing.
Hi Aidan, if you decide to build from a kit then it would be good to see a video or two of the progress. Best of luck with it, and keep us up to speed!
If that is Chinese 2212 1000kv. Most efficient is 9x4.7. 2 blade carbon prop. And 3 blade is 8x4 ... The best results tested the drag. Rpm Vs thrust output. In practice.. I tested it on 2212 1000kv. 9x6 prop is a bit to big pitch. For 1000kv on 3s. 9x4.7 is spot on efficient for 2 blade and 3 blade I would confidently put 8x4 produced best current draw Vs rpm and thrust output of 1.1kg
