How to repair Golf carts and equipment. Car repairs, Classic cars and car shows, Dart instructional videos Birds at my feeders Our Bouvier des Flanders dog
I WATCH ONE GUY HE FLUSHED IT OUT WITH GARDEN HOSE WATER FOR A WHILE UNTIL IT FLOWED PRETTY GOOD THEN BLEW IT OUT WITH AIR LINE GOOD LET DRY NEXT DAY PUT IT BACK ON EVERY THING 👍 BY THE WAY NICE CAR ❤IT
I have an 08 gas Club Car 4 seater. Is the steering supposed to automatically straighten out after a sharp turn on pavement? Like a car? On mine, I have to help the steering unwind. Thanks!
most definitely start by jacking it up and making sure there is nothing bent, and that the king pins are free, if everything is good then do a grease job and alignment
Great Video... Have you ever seen a king pin break? Had a tournament last week and a king pin failed (broke) on a cart driven by one of our players and the course is saying that it was due to negligent driving. However, there wasn't any sign of a damaged fender, bumper, wheel/rim, tire etc. just a broken king pin. The course wants to charge us $600 King Pin and bushings + labor. The driver of the cart told us that the cart started steering rather oddly halfway through the round and then finally it went bonkers and the wheel splayed out at the top ( apparently when the king pin totally failed) Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
well I can't say for sure as I was not there. BUT if they have not been greased properly they seize and can break. Whoever worked on them might have given them a shot of grease BUT IT NEVER WENT THROUGH, That is why I used the proper bushings with the the groove to let the grease through.
I have almost the same cannister. But it says (from left to right) purge (goes to base of carburator), air cleaner (I think just access to blow through the carbon cannister and also back toward tank), and then "tank" (assume this is a line that brings vapor pressure from the gas tank especially when filling and when empty). Tank line has a small disk like diaphram perhaps? in line to the "tank" fitting on the cannister. I assume this is like a "check valve" of sorts maybe to prevent the clogging of the line with charcoal or ??? Thanks for the video, the gas smell was the clue, I don't have pressure on my gas filler cap. Just some kind of back pressure that perhaps makes the fuel pump work harder hence the longer revolutions to start.
have a 1989 chevy truck, v6 automatic. Always started first turn over. Then it started having serious starting difficulty, 6 cycles of the engine with 3 gas pedal pumps is only way to start. Mechanics did everything except fix the long starting problem. I assumed it was gas pump, top of tank under the bed. Smell of gas from somewhere not obvious. My cannister is I think same.... part # 1708715JU. Will check the vent (called "purge" I think on the top of the cannister. Or is it the "tank" line that is the breather ?? Please help. thanks
hello I am not positive that this is your problem BUT it is an easy cheap thing to check , and eliminate . Disconnect the line that runs from the gas tank to the Canister. Do this at both ends. Now blow compressed air into the line. to see if it is blocked. DO NOT BLOW AIR INTO THE GAS TANK.
I agree, white cars, silver cars, grey cars, black cars, not for me-I want a colour that ‘pops’ in the sun and the green used on Bullitt Mustangs has that. Great cars, hopefully one day my garage will be home for one of the 3 generations of Bullitt Mustang🙏
I agree on the colour aspect. when I am washing it, I want to enjoy it, and when I park it and walk away I turn around and love it. though that is just me, and my taste everyone to their own have a great day
I think i have the same problem with my toyota corolla. I replaced two gas tanks already. The gas tanks buldged. I was thinking the charcoal canister was the problem. But now i think my lines are full of carbon. I need to check them. Thanks!
Iv'e watched several cart alignment videos and you are the first one too advise toe in. Everyone else goes for zero toe in or out. My yamaha cart ran great at high speeds with rather large toe out. I adjusted the toe for both wheels at zero toe. It was wildly all over the road and an inexperienced driver could probably flip it over in 100yds at full speed. Although it ran perfectwith toe out, I will' try slightly in now. Which is it 8/10 or 1/8 inch? Pretty big diference.
Yes it is the spitting image of a 1973 Cuda 340 that I used to own as well as a 1973 Dark Green 340 Cuda that we used to own Very sorry I sold them both
Thank you for a great video. I have the "big brother" snap on box to yours. It is loaded with tons of specialty tools that will see very little use again. I loved USA KD tools.
I am going to tackle this job soon on a 2015 GC. Just ordered the parts from Dorman, their website says that the parts now come with an alignment tool? Did you use Dorman parts or know what alignment tool they are referring to?
@@davidandsuzy2516 I ordered the gear and a new actuator. This alignment tool came with the new actuator. Its basically a small plastic spindle oriented exactly like the one coming out of the actuator and they tell you to stick it in the housing and rotate it so it aligns with the position of the new actuator you are installing. I am taking it apart today finally, so I'll see if it is of any help.
@@davidandsuzy2516 well I did the job today. Mine was stuck just like yours. It took me forever but I finally got it unstuck and to the point where it moved freely. I installed a new blend door actuator and a new gear. It went on very easy. Putting everything back together was the frustrating part. Anyway, tested it out afterwards and it’s not working. Some say they need to be calibrated at the dealer or try disconnecting the battery to reset the system. I’ll try the battery option in the morning and go from there. Did yours work right away without any other work needed?
@@davidandsuzy2516 So after I made the repair and was able to "free up" my blend door by hand which was stuck, I put everything back together. Mine is a 2015 and the actuator did need to be "calibrated" with a diagnostic handheld tablet per the manufacturer. I took it to a shop to have the calibration done and they said that the computer could not get the new actuator to calibrate with the computer system for the HVAC. At this point I assumed that the whole assembly that houses the blend doors was damaged beyond repair even though I had gotten it to move by hand. These doors do have rubber and foam sealing around them and if they rotate too far they can not only become stuck but also get jammed so bad that even after you free them up by hand they still don't function as they should. Today I got back to the issue because ours blows heat constantly and now that summer is nearly here it needed to be replaced. The dealer is pulling out the dash and removing the entire blend door system and replacing it with a new one which while expensive is a necessary repair for the vehicle to have proper A/C in the summer. These dual zone climate systems are great options and luxuries to have but they are quite complicated. If I tried to do this bigger job myself it would take me many days so I threw in the towel and have paid the shop to do this more complicated repair to the HVAC system. Your video was very helpful to me in replacing the actuator but I knew there was a possibility it would be a bigger issue. At least I got a proper education of what may have been wrong with the system and I don't feel like I am having an unnecessary repair done. Thanks again.
@@enjoylife7030 I am glad that you watched my Video and got something out of it. Sorry that you have to take it to the Dealer now. To me there are only 2 gears, the one mounted to the door, and the one that drives it from the actuator .There is only one way that they will go on correctly . When you assemble them so that the index is lined up then no need to calibrate.
And the camera work was 7:35 thanks for the spot on but I cannot find schematic of where all the parts exploded view of the vents and parts are shown ?
My door , on the right leg of the passenger side door just blocks the blower , sitting way down . The gear supposed to move a door ? It looks as if there’s something that held something but it’s a shaft that is missing ? 2008 jgc with barely any air flow hot or cold !
Actuator and gears move freely and teeth intact it just doesn’t move a flapper when turning because the flapper fell way down and not retained in any way to the driven gear , did I lose a shaft from the top gear ?
@@davidandsuzy2516 I guess if in some way am able to remove the blower motor down which gets me to where the door seems to have fallen but I need to expose the bottom and blower motor . If that’s the way in ?
@@davidandsuzy2516 gears yes but the flapper is not hanging off the top gear , thanks , continue tomorrow weather permitting, I’ll keep your channel updated, thank you
May I ask where you purchase your bushing kits. There are numerous places of course but would value your opinion as to a seller with good parts. Also, I see the king pin bushings (top and bottom) both have a flange. I have seen where the bottom bushing has a flange but the top does not. Of course, I like the two flange bushings better.
Thank you David for your update. I've been on the fence about buying a mid-rise lift. My ceiling height is also 8 ft and my garage is very small. I've been considering just using it in my driveway but I worry about being able to move it in and out of my garage by myself. I probably won't use it but maybe a couple times a month. At one time I had four cars. I only have one now. I will check out the Titan lift if I decide to go ahead and buy one. Carl
I searched and searched for a practical way to do the alignment and this method was by far the easiest and most painless. Thank you SO much for sharing your expertise as it helped not only me but many people who struggle to keep our carts on the road. If you have any easy fix for bouncing after installing new tires, I am all ears. mine almost shakes my fillings loose.
David and Suzy, thanks for the video. It was spot on for removing and installing the bronze bushings. I know your method is a correct way since I got in a hurry after installing the first set of bushing and pounded away on the second installation only to mess up the bushing. Use the king pin as a guide as shown.
David, what type of fluid did you put back in? I topped off a little bit with CHF-11, but it seems its just ATF-4? Also when you take this off, did you just drain and refill or did you just top off and did any pressure needs had to be done? Thanks!
Hello I just crimped off the low pressure line, so that I didn't loose very much fluid. Then I topped it off once the repair was done with CAM2 Power Steering fluid
My problem is the hill brake wants to engage every time I press the brake even lightly. I tried adjusting the cable but if I tighten it enough so the hill brake doesn't come on then the brakes drag. 06 Club Car Precident.
GO BACK TO BASICS lot's of times I have seen either 1 or both of the cables are rusted, or damaged and will not release. If so replace them. Are you adjusting them correctly? Make sure the foot brake is loose,THEN adjust each rear wheel separately so there is just enough drag, THEN adjust the foot brake . Of coerce it goes without saying that the shoes and drums are in good shape .
I was there as well. It was the first time attending the annual British car show. As an auto enthusiast, I must say, it was a fantastic show! Great to see the enthusiasm for the british cars.
