I'm back y'all! I have been absent for various life reasons but I'm going to be making some more content and rethinking the Dave's Garage youtube channel! If you have any recommendations, questions, or comments please leave a comment in the comment section or contact me through the Dave's garage email at davesgarageemail@gmail.com. Thank you and have a great day.
Is this a mk1 block or a mk2 I just got a vnt15 for my 1.6d out of my 81 caddy pickup and I herd mk1 blocks like to crack on the corners of you apply boost to them it's very hard to tell bc I've seen ppl push reliable boost with them but anything over 10psi shouldn't be on mk2 blocks I've seen push over 30s
Hello! Sorry for the late response. I haven't been on here in a while. I have since sold that car but heard it was still running just fine. I ran it like that for over a year then I know of at least another year. Hope that helps
First 15 sec of accel reminded me of how a 1.6 NA I was having cooling problems with...cheap Prothe HBs...bolt's stretched & coolant (just water @ the time) was entering the cylinders. Happened on the 1st test drive & over pressured the cooling system but fortunately no actual damage. Got up to 60 in about 1/2 the time that is normal while simultaneously made the installed mechanical temp gauge rise @ almost the same speed. That motor got fixed but wasn't working out as well as hoped...had other ongoing issues...in the lil truck. Now has a TD from an 86 Jetta that just need to fab up the exhaust for now. Also have the turbo + manifold from a 1.9 for a future retrofit job elsewhere.
Hi Dave, Thank so much for you video. I have a 1978 VW 1.6 cc. Rabbit diesel. I did exactly what you did the engine is working now, but the RPM are to high and making a lot smog. I want to ask you if the pump need to adjust. I really appreciated if you can help me in this matter.
You are missing the top radiator card as well. This keeps the radiator from pulling hot air from the engine bay. You can make one from cardboard or from a yard sign material.
Hi Dave I have a 1974 peugeot 504 It has a va4 pump, I'm resea.ling. The throttlevalve was leaking, anyhow the pin on it was broken off so I had to get a used pump for parts. It's identical ive reassemble it with the best parts from both pumps. The 3 shims for the port to closure one got lost,so I'm going to try n run it anyway. The timing advance has shims stock is 2 I added 2 as the land rover adds 3.not sure 8f that's safe or not. The injectors have new nozzles. With aftermarket fuel water filter separator better than stock. Have you rebuilt your injection pump? How many shims are in the bosch for its port to closure? That's the shaft the delivers fue.l. My car is a non turbo with a bigger radiator and added electric fan in combo with magneto factory fan . Dual fan switch 2 temp setting to start each fan as heat increases, and cool down when engine is shutoff. So advancing the timing is going to heat up my exhaust? Done with shims or adjusting it witch one cause greater heat risk...
hello! Yes I have resealed a VE pump. I don't recall the shims you are referring to. but I do know that advancing the timing will lower exhaust temps to a point. my pump is timed off the rotation of the pump not a shim. hope this helps!
I honestly don't remember how many turns i did. you do not want to try adjusting fueling to the idle. the problem with doing that is the fuel "valve" can over extend and stick. i didn't have that happen on this 1.6 but i had that happen with another 1.6 i put a turbo on. once you shut the key off it turns off but its not great on the engine. plus you really dont need that much more fuel for NA it just cant handle the extra fuel as well. hope that helps!
hey bud your not gonna believe this, and i hope youre still active on this account but i now own this rabbit ive had it for about a year and a half now, crazy i just randomly found it on youtube
@@davesgarage2039 Man these old school diesels are easy to tune just adjust the fuel screw and there we go! the darker the exhaust gas is the more power gain you're gonna get unlike a carburetor there's a lot of jets, fuel mixture screws and such to mess
I have to agree. they are pretty simple. however for naturally aspirated engines you don't want much smoke. running rich on a turbo diesel is okay because it has more air to use and the extra fuel is used to spool the turbo. however on a naturally aspirated diesel it just adds heat, soot, and unnecessary fuel consumption.
@@jasperdomacena6491 i get 47mpg with the current "tune". i would say it wont change much you will just have less power. it would be like only being able to push the gas half way down instead of all the way. i found gearing to have more of an effect. i got 50mpg in my hatch back which had a 4th gear overdrive .70 instead of a regular 4th 1.00
I just wanna know why my throttle hangs up around 2,200 rpm.. i have to put it in gear and let the clutch out a but to get it to drop back down to idle.. very annoying
@@davesgarage2039 pump is stock settings.. it was bad fuel the local gas station was selling.. went to a different gas station and the problem went away
Its super easy. All you have to do is run a positive wire from your battery to a solenoid (I used one for a lawn mower starter) then wire up a switch for the solenoid inside the car and hook up the glow plugs rail.
I went in with mine about 30 years ago and all i remember is getting greedy until i had a run away diesel lol. Got it shut down and put the screw back to a safe place and left it be.
Hello Dave. I have a 1.9TD engine I’m putting into my 1992 Jetta GL. This engine is a replacement for my 1.6TD which blew up. I’m looking to advance the timing and adjust the fuel screw. Do you happen to know what stock timing should be as well as where I can safely advance to?
hi Chris, i would recommend you get a Bentley manual to find exact numbers for your engine. however, my recommendation would be 1.05mm at tdc. that is stock for a 1.6td so i would imagine it would work for your engine. as for more advance, i am not sure and would look it up in bently manual. sorry for not having more info. Dave.
Hi, i have an 306 XUD9 n/a and im looking to make it turbo, i have and old XUD9T kit, turbo, intercooler and pipes. Changing the gasket for one thicker to down the compression it is viable? Im aiming to 120 cv to the wheels this is posible with stock engine? Or i have to change pistons and push rod. Sorry for my bad inglish im from Argentina, here nobody tune diesel engines so i have not information. I download technical manual for XUD 9 motors and size of components in XUD 9A and XUD9T are pretty similars
I have a Peugeot xd90 engine with a similar kind of pump. Am planning to add a turbo to the engine. Very basic turbo with mild boost. Since I won't change the injection pump I might have to enrich the fuel mixture a bit this way then. Have you done anything similar?
I have added a turbo to an na diesel before yes. And you will want to up your fuel because otherwise you want notice much of an improved or much boost. Check out my video on turbo information.
@@1danny2k I personally have the injection pump maxed out. I backed the idle screw all the way out then in just enough to hold it off the internal stop then set the fuel screw to make it idle there. But I have a 9mm pump and I dont know your setup exactly.
My engine isn't such a rugged one as yours so I'll have to take it half a turn at a time I guess. Cause it's notorious for overheating even non turbo when uphill. So I'm hoping the turbo will lower operating temperature with the extra power.
@@1danny2k yes the boost will help with heat. More air less fuel equals lower temps at the same or more power. Yes try 1/4 to 1/2 turns till it smokes a little then either call it good or back it out 1/2 a turn. I highly recommend getting an egt guage and fuel based on exhaust temp
I have basically the exact same car only in red. Was thinking of doing this this summer to give it a little more pep. How many hours do think you have in the installation so far?
shoot... i have no idea. i know i spent one whole day building the exhaust manifold and another the intake so probably 40+ hrs total. you must do head studs and i had never done the head gasket before so it toke me a little while. plus i wanted to build the intake and exhaust while the head was off for accessibility of the ports. but yeah probably 40+ hrs. you have to remember though i work at a fab shop so i have access to some equipment you may not like a cnc plasma table. hope your build goes well. let me know if you have any other questions.
I don’t think that my pump is getting any power, however I can’t find a hot wire. Where would that be if you don’t mind me asking? Or does it even have one to begin with?
it depends on whether it is a tdi or an older idi (like in the video). if its an idi the wire for the injection pump is to the drivers side of the injection pump on the cast iron block. it should be a smaller wire with a round crimp connector and a nut holding it down. i think its the same for tdi as well. let me know if that helps.
Do you have a video on how to turn up the power? Meaning advance timing and by how much? Up the boost and stuff like that? If i can up my power then maybe ill keep the 1.6 in my samurai?
@@BigStuism I don't have one on turning up the boost because this one is naturally aspirated and my other one doesn't use a stock turbo. If you look on my channel I have a video showing you how to advance the timing. If you advance the timing and turn up the fuel screw you will get some more power. Just be careful how much you turn the fuel up because it can run away on you. If it does that just turn the screw back a bit till it doesn't run away. If you check out my other videos though they have more info.
i tapped a hole for it. www.ebay.com/itm/Pyrometer-0-1500F-EGT-gauge-2-52mm-w-6-5-ft-2M-K-thermocouple-probe-black/263598888974?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
lol! yes zip ties! and duck tape! i honestly don't know where it was purchased. but i have a merchandise store with caddy and rabbit designs. daves-t-shirt-garage.myshopify.com/
this one is pretty fast and is probably pushing 5hp with all the mods I have. my little bike runs 35 mph or 55 kph. i had one with a 212 on it and it was to torquey for me. i couldn't take off without the front wheel coming up.
There is an easier way to do this. I've been planning out my own shave for my street bike. I plan on shaving off .026" using 9x11" 320 grit wet or dry sandpaper (using it wet) taped to a 12x12" sheet of acrylic, 1/8" thick. I'm also not trying to go above a 10:1 CR, so I used a head milling calculator to determine the amount that needs removed. Using a feeler gauge as a guide, I will make a line all the way around the head with a fine tip sharpie pen. After my guide line has been made, I will then put a few drops of machining oil onto the sandpaper, and spread it. I will then plant the head flat on the abrasive, and move it slowly with very little pressure in a figure 8 motion, making sure every two passes to check the line. If I cannot see the line any more, I have taken too much off, where if I can still see a bit of metal under the line, I have not taken off enough. Also, definitely get some octane booster with premium fuel when you take off that much. You will get premature ignition and pings otherwise. Boost that octane up to 100 or higher, and you will get a smoother run with more power.
I agree using a mill machine would be a lot easier/faster. However not everyone has access to a mill. This was just a simple way to do it on the cheap. Thanks for your comment.
@@thegeokiller1529 oh. I have it on a mini bike I built a few years back. The engine is not the strongest stock so I bypassed the governor then it was stumbling off the line so I drilled the main jet then decided to shave the head. Now I can use it off road in the mud and it has lots more torque. HP doesn't really kick in till higher rpms. I've personally had it up to 30 mph and it was sketchy. lol. Let me know if you have any more questions.
