I just did mine friday night , truck wouldn't let me go into service mode said fuck it anyway and proceeded as usual, ended up taking the parking brake motors off and backed them out that way. 5 hours later brake job was done no codes , no vibrations no nothing kind of confused about it all
Good video, question on the rear callipers when you push the piston back in, did the piston rotate as it goes in or did it just get pushed straight in? Thanks.
Have a 2002 Chevy avalanche with 375000 miles has rust on the wheel well.I had fuel pump done on it and new starter and all brake lines done plus water pump
Great video.....got a 450 but looks like the same....how about using wd-40 before you took it all apart??? be safe...why tighten the tie rod bolts until your down with the install and alignments???
I'm going to do a friend's 2015 Chevy Traxx (1.4) and for the life of me, I can not find out what the drain bolt uses for a washer! The internet is vague and ust plain messes with me. Does it use a rubber one like my Ford EcoSport, or a crush washer like a copper or aluminum?
@canamsledder Thanks. I dug and dug and finally found out. Got a 5 pack of OEM equivalent for cheaper than a Dorman. Exact fit, style, length and 10mm bolt. Should last the rest of that vehicle's life. Or most of it. It gets one change a year for a 72 year old who drives only around 1,500 miles a year. Super Tech 5W-30 dexos 20,000 mile formula synthetic with Mobil 1 oil filter.
I have 07, and have the very same problems as you, so decided to get another truck, well, when I started looking, prices knocked my socks off, so being retired for a number of years, I chose to keep Ms lady a while.
Nice video! Any issues not replacing the front rotors and only the pads? I am at 62K miles and at like 20% on the sensor, visually they match this and are worn pretty good. Debating just changing out pads vs pads and rotors.
A great video!Just done the exact same boot replacement on my 02.One thing he did say in the video is to use the original clamps.That is a must since the amount of clearance in the housing is about 1/8 ".New clamp was peeled off immediately (only referring to big clamps wheel side).
At the back of the transmission.... Which is the top line and which is the bottom line? I only have to replace the bottom line. The top line is all good. Awesome video by the way 👍👍👍👍👍
Dude I think the metal sensor on the brake pad goes up not down check the schematics from the Chevy dealer they'll print it out for you, your video was still helpful
Great video other than the “C-clamp” part. Should you need to retract the piston , the C clamp method will not work with the 2019+ caliper design. They have a threaded piston so a spinning type clamp must be used. With that said, If put into service mode it isn’t necessary as the piston should retract close to 100%.
Interesting. With my ‘20 Sierra at4, I had to grab a caliper threaded kit to screw the piston back in to allow enough space for pads. However, there is a possibility that this happens if the piston extends too far as I didn’t have an issue needing to retract as far when doing the opposite side.
Great video very detailed. My 07 Avalanche is giving me code P0430 but does not tell me if it’s sensor 1 or 2. It’ just reads catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank 2). From your video it should be passenger side but sure which sensor it is??? 🤔
Ummm, I don't think you need a new sensor. It sounds like your catalytic converter in getting clogged. Here, watch this. Click>> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O2JrxhiWlPY.htmlsi=bbB29AvzEmVdRf3c
Thanks for the reply. My Avalanche uses Flex Fuel I wonder if I can use this on that type of engine. I have to do some research. I saw the video and noticed your light came back on after a few months. Did you end up replacing your catalytic converter?
I see the rust along the rocker panel and that fuse box mounting mess which means its far worse as you would move back under the vehicle, and like you said brake lines and not sure if that has steel fuel lines as if they are they will fail, the fuel tank will rust through and on and on. I am dealing with a rusty truck myself and its way past borrowed time and will have to get something else very shortly. Its had a new engine put into it a while back and at that point the body still looked reasonable but it went down hill not long after and of course the transmission failed once again so that was even more than the engine ( since I installed the new engine myself ). The fuel tank got a pin hole from rust, the rear diff cover rusted through, the brake lines have failed more than once ( talk about safety issues ), not long ago a transmission cooler line sprung a pin hole. I've had the truck since new and have an attachment to it but the reality is its "finished". Hindsight is 20-20, I should have cut my losses when the engine went and bought a new pickup then before everything went stupid with massive increases in vehicle prices. When I see and hear what is going on with this one and the amount of miles you have on it, its time to send it down the road at an auction or someone that wants a very cheap vehicle. No one wants to hear that and I hate to be another to point that out but sadly its the reality. The big three are all having rebates etc on new 1/2 ton trucks as one example, it might be the time to look seriously in that direction.
I've done the fuel lines and transmission lines already. But I think you are right. The only reason I've kept it this long is for content. I do have a newer Silverado.
Transmission is good. The frame is getting a little thin, no holes yet, but lots of rust. At the very most, the frame MIGHT make it through two more winters.
Always check the rubber connectors at both ends of the hose from the back of the valve cover and the intake side , mine were split creating a vacuum leak
Brother it’s got to go. Sell it or junk it. Taking care of your new cars is critical. To get the truck back up to reliable means is an absolute waste. My recommendation is to find one from the south and make it yours. Or find a mid 2000’s suburban. You got the 300k out of it, plenty of trouble that will only get worse with time. Let her go.
Hello it's me again I followed all the steps in this video and after I started my truck I had all the codes come up. The same ones mentioned in other comments on this video. I drove it around the block got to 43 mph twice and took it home. Parked it for around 10 to 15 mins started it again and all codes were gone except the engine light. Turned it off again and waited around the same amount of time and it also went away I have now driven the truck about an hour round trip to work and back for the day. However I am home now and still nothing I can't get the front brake life percentage to reset. Cannot find a way to resolve.... any ideas??????
@@canamsledder I haven't seen anything come up in info center and I didn't even put it in brake service mode because I did the front brakes and was under the impression from all that I've gathered on the web and here that I didn't need to turn on brake service mode sorry I didn't say that unless back brakes were being changed
