I've always been interested in budget home builds and love sharing them with you. Like all hobbies this one costs money- i dont have any sponsors but i have plans in the pipeline for more projects so any donations- however small- would be GREATLY appreciated so i can keep the videos coming. Hope you like my vids so please Like,Share and Subscribe.
I really wouldnt bother with rear discs. My capri has a 5.7 chevy 383 bhp at the wheels. I use 2.8i 9" rear drums with uprated discs and calipers up front. It stops perfectly. Personal choices of course but that money can be spent on other areas of a classic ford
We changed our front struts bk to stock, from racing adjustable springs, the spring is rubbing on the inside body frame, also the are will not connect to the strut, they are the correct parts, any ideas
This German 2.0 ltr. engine was used to power motor cross cars. The drivers would run the heck out of this little engine That's why Hank for went to it for the first generation Pintos. Eventually the US engineers got their engine finished, a 2.3 ltr. of their own. It wasn't that good. Fuel mileage was not impressive and performance was ho hum. Many experienced cam shaft lobes getting wiped. I found out that the best way to fix this was to change the oil every three thousand miles with a new filter without skipping any changes. Mine had ~72K miles on it when I traded it in. I got what I paid for it in '73 and got the wagon automatic BIG MISTAKE! Wouldn't get out of its own way! I should've just gottin' another stick shift.
Use Electrolysis, water, and washing soda. Bolt electrical connections to part and sacrificial plate using heavy gauge steel wire. Get the current as high as you can and run for 24 hours then remove and pressure wash. Put it back for another 24 and wash it again. Repeat till you are happy with the result. You can speed things up by replacing some of the water with white vinegar but that adds expense that's not really needed.
Very interesting. Good video. It has to be asked…..why would anyone want to restore a Pinto block? That thing is the heart muscle to one of the biggest pieces of junk ever made.
They are used in most European fords from 70s to 2000. Even in vans. I have a 2.0 in my ford 81 ford transit van. And it runs great and can handle a lot of Weight. People get like close to 200 hp out of them with 4 carbs.
To all those shade tree mechanics out there, the best rust/ grease removal chemical on iron is oven cleaner( sodium hydroxide, NaOH). NaOH will dissolve aluminum, so don't use it on any aluminum/ nonferrous parts. Pressurized parts cleaners or vinegar (acetic acidCH3COOH) will be ok for that.
I owned a 72 pinto and those little cars were very dangerous and unpredictable it almost got me killed, that was way back in 1984. I'd never own another one.
Good job man, finally someone put vinegar on camera. Here stateside homedepot has started carrying 30% vinegar, stuff from the market is 4%. I'd bet that would speed it up. As someone else said , for oil and grease spray on oven cleaner ,here stateside made with caustic soda. This works a treat for getting down through oil and grease - doesn't seem to hurt paint so engine compartments come out looking new. Looking forward to seeing up coming vids on this project. Cheers!
In 1970, I bought a Pinto for an incredible $1997 on the street. The engine was a 2.0 liter 4 speed tranny. I would shift it when it wouldn't go any faster (haha). Loved that little car.
Had a 71 2.0, 4 spd. installed tach ran it 7k all the time, was going to keep, but someone ran into rear, did not catch fire, but destroyed. Had it for 3.5 yrs. loved it.
Be care full of over-braking on the rear,once weight transfers under heavy braking,the rear can become over active (been there),bias pedal box will help,or an in-line pressure unit (adustable or static) Depends on use and what front set up you have,but,braking hard from higher speeds can make the Car skitty,if you don't valve the rear end. 👍
@@leer798 It'll be no problem to change them- i took them out before i took the half shafts to the machine shop. They slid back in easy with a dab of anti seize!! I'm not worried about changing them- done heaps!!
@@KeefsKustoms hi there, can you giv me some help please, I am doing the same conversion, can u tell me the size of the banjo bolts, and fittings sizes that go into the T piece. Thanks
