Hi, my name is Mike. Welcome to my channel. I've created this channel to share some woodworking tips, tricks, and projects I've done in my shop. The shop is an old shed dating back to the nineteenth century. It is a pretty small shop, so I try to use space efficiently.
It's important to clarify that the 2.5" doesn't come in from just anywhere at the top of the board. More specifically, the measurement from the 4" mark comes down 39" to the edge of the board. From that point at the edge of the workpiece, come in 2.5". The next line comes from the 5" mark to the 2.5" mark. Hope that helps.
It's beautiful, great craftsmanship!! I retire at the end of this month, so I'll add this to my list of things to do to fill my time and keep me busy. Can't become a couch potato!!!
I have watched two or three other people on this RU-vid channel making this and you are the one and only one that explains in detail every single step you don’t miss a beat you’re very detail oriented. It’s the best video in my opinion on this wooden flag.! I find most people on a RU-vid channel lie about a lot of things and hide a lot of things just to get views. I find that honest and you have integrity and I appreciate that. Thank you for your videos.! you do amazing work!
@@oldeshed well you deserve high kudos! because most people on here are full of crap in my opinion and you are honest and to the point and in detail keep up the good work I’m proud of you
@@oldeshed For sure it is on my todo list. Currently, I have several projects that are higher priority. This always seems to be the case for me. Thanks again for the great video!
Setting the fence 60 degrees to the edge of the sled is only applicable if you are 100% positive your sled edge is perfectly parallel to your blade. You're better off referencing it off of the blade itself, or at the very least the cut line. But I like the design.
At about 12 seconds in you'll see a link in the top right corner. That link will take you to my video on the process of making the coasters and using the jig. Thanks for stopping by.
The finished product shouldn't be subjected to prolonged exposure to water.....like a dishwasher. Initially , one coat will protect the wood, but occasional applications of oil are recommended as needed.
The second one, the yellow one is: YONICO 43069C 3-Inch Diameter Carbide Forstner Drill Bit 10mm Shank. This bit is currently unavailable. There are others available with the same configuration. The second one is similar to this: MLCS 9245H 3-Inch Diameter Steel Forstner Bit with Hex Shank, although I don't remember the exact manufacturer.
Not sure if you ever had issues with the bit clogging up. But if you enlarged the hole in the bit to 9/64 it will basically never jam up. Before the modification I had to stop every 3-4 holes and clear it out. After the modification I did 40 without an issue. I also replaced the inner bit with a a higher quality bit. I need to try the tape trick, I had some others recommend it to me. Nice work, keep it up!
Very nice build. This solves several problems associated with CC sleds, particularly how big do you make it & store it. The only potential issue I can see is that (over time) the edge of the ext. fence can get shaved down by the TS blade and you lose the "zero" Have you found this to be a problem?
Hi Andrew...I set the extension so that it just comes into contact with the leading tooth on the table saw blade. It touches, but the blade moves cleanly. I rough measure with the cursor and always confirm with a tape measure. I have not lost the zero. Thanks for watching!
Truly Amazing build I've seen. Not to take anything away from King's. The guy that perfected the Adirondack chair. Their stuff is equally of The Highest Quality. I'm totally in love with northern redwood cedar. I love wood working, love all types of woods, but Really Love Cedar. It's The Stand out of the softer woods. Great video brother. I'm a new sub.🤠🤓😎
Great jig but you shouldn’t be teaching people to use their hand that close to the blade. That little 2-1/2” piece of wood can pull your hand right into the blade if it kicks back.
Thanks Mike, this was amazing, I have recently got into making epoxy crafts and beer flights and this was super helpful, i kept trying to measure and it was a pain for the holes for the glasses, that tool you use will make this much easier.
Mike, your left hand is WAY too close to that blade. Use a push stick or push block on the piece you're cutting and keep your hand further away from that blade. This is such a bad example to be setting for new woodworkers who may not yet realise just how dangerous this sort of operation can be.
Hi Mike. I'm new to this stuff and want to be safe. Why can you not run the work piece against the fence with the off cut ending up on the left of the blade? Using a push stick or something equivalent.
It looks a lot closer on camera than it really was. I don't use the featherboard because when the piece you're cutting, and the sacrificial piece pass through the blade, that leaves the original piece stuck (on the left side) between the blade and the featherboard creating the possibility for kickback. I would usually use a rubber stick (a cleaning stick for a sanding disc), but didn't use it just for clarity in filming. I should have mentioned that. Thanks for asking.
Hey Aaron, I finally found it. I went to a site called shellac.com. They're about $50. They are sealed stainless steel. I have no affiliation with them, nor am I a spokesman for their product. My plans are now available on my website, oldeshedworkshop.com under 'Shop'. Good luck. Send pictures when you're done!
