Welcome to Speed Boost RC! My name is Dmitriy and we're a father and sons trio - Nikolai, and Dmitriy Jr.-who are passionate about RC cars. What started as a fun hobby has grown into a journey filled with high-speed thrills, custom builds, and endless bashing sessions.
On our channel, you’ll find us chasing speed records, diving into the technical side of RC with custom builds and upgrades, and sharing our love for extreme bashing. Whether we're hitting new speeds with our ARRMA Limitless or pushing our trucks to their limits, we’re all about the excitement and challenge.
But it's more than just the cars-it’s about family, fun, and the joy of sharing this passion with others. We’re here to document our adventures, learn from every run, learn from our viewers, and inspire you to join in on the action.
If you love RC, speed, and the thrill of the ride, you’re in the right place. Subscribe to Speed Boost RC and join us as we explore, experiment, and enjoy the world of RC together!
Moreover, one of the guys I know does run the dual motor, but he just showed me the results of dual motors. He gets only one run and his foams are ruined. My foams cost 50 bucks for a pair local. Amazon same price over a weeks wait. Adding the money up and time spend doesn't make me happy for a new PB. His car is so heavy it ruins his foams. They don't make a belted rubber tire that stays together over 130 mph. At least not yet. Foams are the way to go. So when you speak about dual motors, those batteries are going to be heavy, and you will be replacing your foams after every run. Even Raz will show you the results of one of his runs, his foams are chunked. I'm going to now start using the CONTACT foams JB35B they seem to hold together.
I do understand your need to build a dual motor car. Today I saw a 4s dual tp motor car do 162 MPH. His 2s is even faster, as I saw this in person. He is using almost the entire road over 3350, which equates to more with a scaled car. Your problem is screaming at you from your logs. You see the dip in the voltage, and your not holding a full trigger for over 3 seconds to allow that power to recover. That is your problem. DISTANCE. We are doing a min of 3000 feet of running space. I'm consistent at 135 mph, with what I'm running. I'm only using 3000 ft of space which is about 4068ft of scaled space. Which in my mind means I'm doing full runs and not crashing at the end, able to return my car for a reading. Your not being consistent, and you want to run dual motors, that is not going to work. I say this to help you improve your PB . I have watched all of your videos, and notice one constant, you don't have enough space to run. If your not doing over 3000 foot of running your wasting your time and money. Here in Maryland we run on a road that is flat, old but in great condition, it's over 3000 feet, as far as you can see and it has a dip, but not bad. In the scale world of distance that is about 2000 ft more of space. It is a smooth road , but I have seen speeds over 195 MPH in person. You need that voltage to recover. That is going to get you a better PB everytime. I'm just trying my best to help as much as I can, but I have to be very frank with you an others I watch. The main thing about speed runs is being consistent. Example: I ran a 135 last weekend, and I did it two more times, no crashes. Now I can add a bigger pinion on my next run. I'm going to suggest this again. Run something slower a few times before you run your main car, this will help your build confidence in running the faster car. I ran the V2 limitless today, got 110 mph. I have to run it again to make sure it's 110. After that I will add a bigger pinion by 2-3 teeth only each time. I have to do the same top speed 3 times before I move on. it may take a year, but it will be a consistent run with NO crashes and a good return with no repairs. I have seen a guy do 180 mph and crash that cost him over 2K to rebuild. 180 mph means nothing if you crash it at the end. You have to start all over, and make sure you have everything exact as the car you just crashed. 5 steps forward, and 10 back every crash. That dog don't hunt.
@brianstevens2244 I’ve done some testing by driving the car around slowly, and it seems like the sensored is working fine. The sensors are active only at low speeds, and once you hit a certain RPM, it switches to sensorless. I’ll definitely keep an eye on it though. Thanks for the heads up!
You’ll have to take a Rlaarlo car on and do a 3650 , tp4040 and then duals 1412 or 1415s maybe they seem like a fun platform to play with. Test some smaller esc maybe to.
I run the radiomaster mt12. After watching a few videos I was able to setup my launch control where I have a race mode and a regular mode on one of the switches. As for gearing I would stay close to what you was running on 8s, maybe go down 5 teeth on the pinions and leave the spur the same. That’s a good start.
Nice ! I’m on vacation I guess the season is over for me. But I’m building 4 speed run cars with some high hopes. After seeing people wreck it made me wanna slow down the process and enjoy the cars a little longer. Good luck man. I asked raz what’s the smallest spool he ran on a live show ill have to look again but if possible try 34 42
@@SpeedBoostRC I sitting thinking about even having a good income it’s damn expensive. I’m really trying to enjoy and extend the process maybe 4s isn’t a bad idea and truly starting with modest gearing and meeting the goals.
@@SpeedBoostRC it’s not about me but I know your chasing the dream sorta thing as I’ve done with other hobbies it’s truely about the memories and process! I’m on vacation and bought 5 cars 6 maybe because the day you got a small one I did to by coincidence. Another xlx2 and I went with a 2028. I’m adhd and so far we bith seem obsessed lol. I wait for you videos ! I’m rooting for you.
Yes I plan to use the Noble speed / launch control and no longer use the perfect pass. I really never should of got it and got the Noble from the beginning.
WTG. 4S dual should get you to about 140mph, if not more. Good way to test how it runs. Probably no need for 6S. NB4 has a throttle delay feature, so no need for perfect pass. Keep it as simple (to use) as possible. I use a separate Rx battery. No BEC from escs at all. Both therefore run as slaves. Yes, JST pliers, good quality terminals, shorten all wires for neatness. I put separate switches at back of the car, then you can assemble / tape body before turning car on. Makes life a lot easier, but wiring is more complicated because of switches. All fans run from Rx battery too.
That's funny you mention that because the first thing I did after opening it up was to change the shock oil to something thicker. Do you have any tips for keeping it running straight? It tends to wander all over the road.
Nice. The front and rear spring, should not have any down movement. Crank them down until they go off the threads. The stiffer the suspension the better you can keep the car under control. Especially when your stopping. It should stay straight.
I have an infraction and was wondering what tires you run at high speeds? I have GRP for now, that I want to upgrade. What foams do you recommend? Thanks
Yes. Alignment, ride heights, how to set prefered droop, spring tensions, diff oils. Camber settings. Tires and balancing. Where slop is reduced. Point how you straighten the car after building. All this stuff to run straight under load.
I think the turnbuckles are on the wrong way sir. Besides that awesome build.👌🏽 Ohh and for the flex on the servo mount you will still get it on the upgraded one you got you will have to adjust your end points.
Lock your diffs bro. You don’t have to worry about that pin anymore. Also don’t just run on 8s of rip. Do small increases. I have a limitless with all the bells and whistles upgraded that u can think of and only running it on 6s right now before jumping to 8s. Small increments then recheck all your parts to make sure everything is still tight and within your spec. Good luck.
That is your rear diff had the broken pin which doesn't match with the steering, as the rear end of the car would have spun towards the front, meaning come around or rear steer. That did not happen, you drifted off to the side of the road. Watch the video, as the car passed you it was already going towards the side of the road, after it caught the gravel/dirt then it hit the grass. Your rear end would have spunout first, not the entire front end into the grass. And if the tires would have locked up you would have saw a skid mark just before impact, or saw smoke from the rear. I think it was something else. But your going to rebuild. I would suggest, bring more than just one car to run a few times before you try for your PB's, it will help you focus. Something like a 6s first a few times, then get the fast ones out.
All my diffs are locked up, and I have a spool. When my diffs broke, and I have had front and rear break. My wheels just spun freely. They did not lock up, the car just sat and rev'd up, no movement. But , I'm not quite sure they could have thrown off your steering. The servo, and steering linkage along with output from the operator causes steering issues. Also unbalance weight, and the tires not moving evening with the other. Meaning when you lift the front or the rear the tires don't come up even. That was mention in the last video by a viewer. Because I'm having those same issues with my infraction. I have 9 speed run Arrmas, and only this infraction gives me steering issues. I have the same servos in all my vehicles. But anytime the diffs went out the wheels would not move, and they are not locked up. Again Diffs act weird and do different things as well. But not lock up from my experience. I have 3 infractions, two are still 6s, I have 4 converted felonies, converted the rear diffs into the limitless diff, and 2 Limitlesses, one still in the box brand new.
