LIFE makes short educational films that empower people to transform patios, parkways and yards into spaces that support healthy functioning food webs and ecosystems. We want to empower people to retrofit with native plants that not only make sense for our climate and soils, but also feed the birds, butterflies and other creatures that add beauty, life and movement to our gardens.
LIFE Vision - A Southern California populated by environmentally literate people engaged in sustainable practices to mitigate our water, energy and biodiversity crises.
LIFE Mission - Through video tutorials and public speaking on native gardening, smart irrigation and water catchment, help Southern California communities shift to appropriate practices that reduce water and energy consumption and support biodiversity.
Thank you for letting us know you find our work helpful -- good to hear, as that's what we hoped to achieve! We hope to be able to make new content shortly... Really appreciate you getting in touch.
All my searching and I finally found your page. Thank you so much, for all the clean, informative bits- such gems your videos are. Thank you! Thank you! I'm curious, do you have any advice on where to buy seeds online for California native plants? Or is it best to go to nursery? It is hard for me to trust places if their plants have been sprayed with chemicals... Wondering if you had any tips on this would be much appreciated. Take care 🩷🙏🌱
@lgarcia, thank you so much for letting us know that our videos have been helpful without being overwhelming -- that's what we were striving for! Your comments are a real boost! As for seeds, the Theodore Payne Foundation for Wild Flowers & Native Plants is an excellent source -- one you can trust. Here's the link for buying seeds online from the Foundation, which is located in Sun Valley (part of Los Angeles), California: store.theodorepayne.org/collections/seeds-1?_ga=2.20843391.692253062.1719918682-1456974998.1719918681 All our best to you and your garden!
Hello, Here are two links about the edibility of Nevin's barberry berries: www.cnps.org/gardening/garden-qa-edible-native-plants-for-the-home-garden-12580 and pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Mahonia+nevinii
Hello, San Clemente Bush Mallow is in stock right now at the Theodore Payne Foundation in Sun Valley, CA (a suburb of LA). The Foundation doesn't ship plants (only seeds), but you can place an order for the plant and pick it up usually within 2-4 days. The best time to plant California natives is in the fall, at the start of the rainy season. Planting now is more difficult because SoCal is heading into its hot, dry seasons; there's a planting guide on the Theodore Payne website. Here's the link for the San Clemente Bush Mallow on the Theodore Payne nursery inventory: store.theodorepayne.org/collections/plants-1/products/theodore-payne-foundation-malacothamnus-clementinu?_pos=127&_fid=dc0836a0a&_ss=c&variant=45543190430004
Yes, you can, but ... Would you be trying to force a second bloom? If you cut back the buckwheat after blooming, the pollinated flowers won't be able to make seeds for birds, and the habitat value of the plant becomes much, much less. If, however, you are talking about cutting back the plant after the seeds have been consumed throughout winter, say cutting back in spring, that would be a good time to cut back the plant so that it does not become too sprawling. I hope I've answered your question!
Excellent! When I left the pompoms on my California buckwheat over the winter, sparrows, goldfinches and other birds would sit in the crown of the plant, feasting. There'll be beauty for you to watch!@@vickiesorenson2383
Over two years ago I bought my 1st White Sage at Sloat Garden Center in San Francisco and I planted it inside a one quarter sized wine barrel. I was so stoked how well my first one did that I decided to plant one in the ground, I bought it from CNP in Mill Valley.
Yes, colder airflow makes the tree flower better. As for zone 10, do you mean the high desert in Southern California? If so, it would all depend on the specifics of your site.... This tree likes areas near moisture, and when you see it in the wild, it's growing in ravines, canyons shaded from the hot afternoon sun... With Southern California becoming more extreme in its heat, locally native species that are more heat- and drought-tolerant might be a better bet, because they'll be more resilient. If you are in the desert, have you considered a Palo Verde tree?
Hi guys! I ordered a flamethrower redbud online, but it’s just a stick without any budding, no branches, no leaves! I did cut the top to see if any sign of life, and there is some small green in the center. Any tips to help it grow, would be much appreciated!!!
Hmmm...Wish we could help, but the flamethrower redbud is a cultivated variety of the eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis), a cross of two cultivars that are not native to California. If you live in California, you'd be better off cultivating the western redbud (Cercis occidentalis), which evolved here and is, therefore, much more suited to our environment and supportive of its various native insects and other animals. For gardening success and giving back to the natural world, it is always best to cultivate a plant that evolved in that place. You can "stretch" the range, but it will have its limits. Here's the link to the Calscape.org website page for the western redbud. The range map is instructive: calscape.org/Cercis-occidentalis-(Western-Redbud)?srchcr=sc64eb044326d59 Though this reply may not be what you wanted, we hope it was helpful!
The toyon is where my enthusiasm for native plants began when I noticed it growing in a corner of my yard abuzz with many bee species I had never seen before. Two years later I've added dozens of native plants and continue to add more each winter. Thanks for producing these videos.
While you make good points on some things there are lots of non natives that support pollinators, birds, etc. Also if native plants are so important they should offer them at at box stores and town nurseries instead of having to go to a speciality nursery or native plant sale. Make them more available to the general public. I think both non native and native plants can coexist . I truly think 🤔 having to pay membership fees for these plant sales is a waste as we are in a recession right now and money is tight. This native plant business has turned into a profit making business with the books., T shirts, etc,
Non-native flowers can support pollinators, BUT there is the issue of the flower shape and depth and time of bloom being right for the particular pollinator to be able to access at the time of year when that pollinator is active. For example, short-tongued bees need asteraceae-type flowers where the pollen is at a shallow depth in the flower, and available when that particular type of bee has emerged. Locally native plants co-evolved with locally native insects and other animals, and so there is no guess work for getting the plant-animal pairing right compared to if one is planting a non-native. As for birds, up to 90% of leaf-eating insects, such as caterpillars, can eat ONLY native plants. Non-natives do not support caterpillars anywhere near as well, and this matters because caterpillars are the main food of baby birds. One baby chickadee-size bird needs about 1,000 caterpillars to make it to adulthood. Without natives, that baby bird has a slim chance at survival. We completely agree that big box stores should sell native plants, and some are trying, but without adequately trained sales staff, many of the recommendations are wrong, and then natives unfairly get a bad name. Years ago, Armstrongs nurseries tried selling natives without commensurate training and lost money, so decided that it was financially better just to continue to keep selling non-natives for their profit-margin. Also, many nurseries make a good chunk of their profits from the soil amendments and pesticides that are needed with non-natives, so this makes natives less attractive. Not sure which nurseries you are referring to that require membership fees to shop there for native plants, but the Theodore Payne Foundation doesn't require membership, for instance.
It IS hideously tough, agreed! The cardboard coverage, thickness, and overlapping edges for smothering the Bermuda must be absolutely impeccable for it to succeed. Digging it out by hand is best for peace of mind, no nasty surprises...
Yes, it is one of those... Think of how a larger herbivore might nibble on a mature plant -- they would eat the tender tips of the branches, not the hard wood (unless they were starving). So, in the fall, once all the seeds have been devoured by birds or scattered on the ground, prune back the sage to just below the whorls of old flower husks, above where the leaves begin. And the old stalks make beautiful dried arrangements!
If your question is about Nevin's barberry, I would go ahead and try it, since the Calscape description of the plant says that it is very cold and heat hardy: calscape.org/loc-California/Nevin's%20Barberry%20(Berberis%20nevinii)?newsearch=1 If you plant it and it works, great! If not, you have performed an informative experiment. Endemic means that is occurs naturally only in that place. Nevin's barberry is not endemic to Northern California, but as long as you plant it in a place that receives full sunlight, it has a good chance of working at your site. Have you thought about Oregon Grape (Berberis acquifolium) for your site? This species is endemic to Northern California, and makes berries for birds like Nevin's barberry. Oregon Grape needs shade, though, as it is a woodland plant. Here's the link: calscape.org/loc-California/Oregon%20Grape%20(Berberis%20aquifolium)?newsearch=1 Let us know the result of your experiment! Happy planting!
Hello, it depends on your kind of soil and the weather. The goal is to not let the young root ball completely dry out. Very broad brush: If you have fast-draining soil, like decomposed granite soil, approx. 1 x per week, about 4-5 gallons each time, for the first year would be about right. If you have slow-draining soil, like clay, you would water less frequently, because the clay retains the moisture much longer than more porous soils. With clay, you'd water approx. every 10 days to 2 weeks. The best way to know how often to water is by inserting your finger into the soil by the roots and feeling where the moisture level is. Here's are links to PDFs of two indispensable guides from the Theodore Payne Foundation for watering and establishing your plants: theodorepayne.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/PLANTING-GUIDE_FINAL.pdf theodorepayne.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/YOUR-NATIVE-GARDEN27S-FIRST-YEAR_final.pdf Here's the link to the plant guides page from the Foundation. It's a wealth of information! theodorepayne.org/learn/guides/ Thank you for planting native!
I wish more people knew how great that poppy is at fighting erosion. I’ve saved a few Cliff on my property by the American river with them. Such a tough and beautiful native plant.
Here's the story behind that photo: when I saw the Epilobium rustling, I ran inside the house for my camera. After about a minute of watching the plant, I saw the towhee hop out onto the stump, with a beak full of caterpillars for her nestlings. All these years later, that photo still makes me so happy.
Hi Michael, Here's the link to the PDF of the planting guide/establishment and watering guide from the Theodore Payne Foundation, one of the best native plant nurseries (and education centers) there is: theodorepayne.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/PLANTING-GUIDE_FINAL.pdf And here is the link for the PDF for the Theodore Payne Foundation's guide about your native garden's first year: theodorepayne.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/YOUR-NATIVE-GARDEN27S-FIRST-YEAR_final.pdf For even more information, check out the "Plant Guides" page under "Learn" on the menu of the Theodore Payne Foundation's website: theodorepayne.org/ Have fun!
@@life-landscapeintegrityfil6821 maybe it’s the camera or video playback on my iPad but I definitely see the violet undertones but it seems more magenta than pink from here.
Since this splendid tree becomes 15-35 feet wide (depending on its growing conditions; on average, the canopy having a 17-foot-radius from the trunk at maturity), I would plant it 20-25 feet from the house. Otherwise, you'll have leaf drop all over your roof, which is a fire danger.
After having done both drip and overhead irrigation for many years, I must say that I prefer overhead. For years, I used a rectangular oscillating sprinkler attached to the end of a hose. The water came out in big drops and penetrated into the soil evenly, providing for good root development. Let me back up: The first year, in my garden with granitic fast-draining soil, I gave each plant 3-4 gallons of water, by bucket, once per week . The next year, I elongated the dry periods to two weeks between the deep watering by oscillating sprinkler. The third year, when it wasn't raining, the plants received water every 4-6 weeks, depending on the temperature and heatwaves. (Never water in the heat; always deep water before the heat.) I am not a fan of drip because it promotes uneven root development, and there's the pain of having to reposition the emitters as the plant grows to make sure the water is at the root tips (roughly at the drip line of the plant and beyond), and not at the plant stem, which is where one often unfortunately sees the emitters.) Also, in the drought, the drip lines were chewed through by squirrels, looking for water... better to just leave water out for animals than to have all that plastic in your yard. Also, my sprinklers are on 3-foot tall risers, to make sure their spray isn't blocked. If you have slow-draining or clay soil, you will water more infrequently. Here's the link to a handout from the Theodore Payne Foundation about watering your plant in the first year: theodorepayne.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/YOUR-NATIVE-GARDEN27S-FIRST-YEAR_final.pdf Hope this helps!
What is the best soil composition for this plant? It doesn’t seem like I should use basic potting soil of succulent soil? If there a recipe or composition you would suggest?
Showy Penstemon grows best in fast-draining sandy or granitic soil. It does not grow well in clay or soil that retains water well. I have never tried it in a pot and am not sure how well it would do in one. If you do try it in a pot, use cactus mix, as for all California native plants. With the heat in full swing in SoCal, it would be best to wait until autumn to plant, when the weather cools and the rains (fingers crossed!) arrive. Be sure to check out the Theodore Payne Foundation -- they are a great place to visit for ideas about planting combinations and ideas, and they carry different penstemons from week to week. They also have a weekly nursery inventory. theodorepayne.org/
Hi Samantha, Here's the link to the plant list for the garden, which was on the Theodore Payne Foundation's 2016 Native Plant Garden Tour: www.2016.nativeplantgardentour.org/wp-content/uploads/plant-lists/garden-31-la-canada-flintridge-2016.pdf The four species of grasses and sedges are Carex pansa, Carex praegracilis, Festuca rubra, and Elymus condensatus 'Canyon Prince.' The tours are a wealth of inspiration and beauty!
I have one of these growing in our backyard. It is about 20 feet wide. The leaves are hitting the ground on a slope. Is it okay to prune this tree and if so, how and when?
It is okay to prune this tree, but best to avoid pruning during a heatwave, because the tree will lose a lot of moisture through the pruning cuts. Generally, it is best to leave pruning to cooler, dry days. Autumn, after the worst of the heat is over, would be a good time.
Your videos are beautiful and informative. I moved here seven years ago after 50 years in Minnesota and have struggled to learn the extremely different plants from what I knew. Your videos are very helpful. I see your most recent was two years ago and would love to see more, but hope you are well and thriving in this incredibly beautiful state.
I have 3 plants near one another a couple of feet apart in part shade. Going on 2 years; 2 of the plants have grown nicely and are a deep rich green & has bloomed as pictured. 1 has hardly grown at all; has bloomed, but color of foliage is a very light bright green. All 3 get the same watering. Any ideas why 1 is doing poorly compared to the other 2 plants?? Located Central Valley CA.
Hmmm... does the one that's doing poorly receive more intense sunlight at the end of the day? Or is there some difference in the soil? Soil can vary from place to place in a yard, but usually not in such proximity that it would turn leaves a bright green... are the leaves bright green, or yellowish green? Were the plants grown from seed, or vegetative cuttings? If from seed, perhaps you have one that has the genetic variant to have light bright green leaves. Clearly, something is off with this plant... perhaps you could contact people at the Tilden Botanic garden at UC Berkeley to see what they say... Sorry to not have a definitive answer! Good luck with solving the riddle!
I found it clones fairly easy with rooting hormone, I just put new cuttings in new locations during winter.Unlike St Catherine lace, which for some reason can't seem to root from cuttings, unlike the other buckwheats
In a hot area, redbuds should have filtered afternoon light, or afternoon shade, otherwise, the redbud will fry in the heat. In its southernmost locations, it grows in shady canyons where it is protected from blistering sunlight and heat. Though you might have seen that the City of Los Angeles plants redbuds as a street tree in sidewalk tree wells, this kind of location is not a good idea, as the concrete (and nearby asphalt) radiate heat and stress the tree in a situation vastly different from that in which it evolved.
Birds need insects for the protein their bodies supply. Up to 90% of leaf-eating insects, such as caterpillars, can eat only native plants. (Caterpillars are the main food of baby birds.) If a migratory bird were to touch down amid a host of non-native plants, there would be much, much less protein for that bird than if the plants were native. Please see the work by Douglas Tallamy, a professor of entomology and author of "Bringing Nature Home: How You Can Sustain Wildlife with Native Plants." And here's his website, Homegrown National Park:homegrownnationalpark.org/
I am happy to have inherited several of these shrubs in my new home’s native landscape, but a couple have yellowing leaves with leaf drop. One is completely bare. Any hints to what’s going on? Thanks
Hello, please forgive the tardy reply... It sounds like the plants need a good deep soak or two. If you have access to a hose, put it on a slow continuous trickle for several hours as you move it around the root crown for coverage. Do not put the water directly on the stem of the plant. You want to thoroughly wet the root ball. Hope this helps!
This plant is not a good candidate for a pot, because it propagates itself mainly by rhizomes -- underground runners -- and will continually be trying to escape the confines of the pot. But, in a sense, putting it in a pot might be a good idea because that would contain the plant, preventing it from spreading throughout a yard, which can happen as the rhizomes seek out water. The calscape.org description of this plant says that it gets up to 3.3 feet tall but, as you can see, the plant in the video was much larger, hence my thinking that it would outgrow a three-foot-wide pot in no time. You could try it in a pot as an experiment? Gardening is experimenting, finding what works for your site, and what doesn't... Here's the Theodore Payne Foundation link to a Plant Guide for Containers: theodorepayne.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/CONTAINERS-2017.pdf Sorry to not be able to be more definitive, but we hope these comments help! Here's the calscape link: calscape.org/loc-California/San%20Clemente%20Island%20Bush%20Mallow%20(Malacothamnus%20clementinus)?newsearch=1
@@teaceremony2460 That's wonderful! Be sure to deeply water the plant once a week, if you have fast-draining soil, and every ten days to two weeks if you have clay soil. Given the drought, baby plants are going to need all the help they can get. Here's a link to a PDF of a care/watering guide from the Theodore Payne Foundation: theodorepayne.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/YOUR-NATIVE-GARDEN27S-FIRST-YEAR_final.pdf
To answer your question, it would be best for you to consult a cookbook written by Indigenous Californians about harvesting and preparing native foods. (It's also best to grow your own buckwheat, rather than foraging from the wild.) Here are some websites that also might be of help: arroyosage.blogspot.com/2014/10/making-california-buckwheat-pancakes.html mtlaguna.org/california-buckwheat/ Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for letting us know -- we really appreciate your feedback! Do you know about calscape.org? They are a fantastic resource for information about native plants, and have a native plant finder by zip code. Here's the link for Idyllwild: calscape.org/loc-33.7608,-116.7379(92549)/?&poploc=1 There are 603 plants native to Idyllwild -- have fun planning and playing!
@@life-landscapeintegrityfil6821 Thank you so much for the info. I LOVE Calscape! They helped me narrow down options for Idyllwild for sun, partial sun and shady conditions. And the best news is that I can order from Moosa Creek and they deliver to our local nursery, Idyllwild Gardens! So far I've planted California Buckwheat, White Sage, Bush Monkey Flowers, and Narrow-Leaf Milkweed. I afraid I'm becoming addicted!
@@swallowcreekvideo So glad to hear that the information helped! Your garden will be beautiful, and it's a beneficial addiction: the pollinators, birds, and other animals will love you for it! You're doing a world of good!
