I believe that this is an Epson x5 printhead. it has 2 white, 2 clear, black, red, yellow, blue with a uv heat lamp that cures the UV ink. its comprised of the head, 2 ribbon cables going to the motherboard if I can remember correctly. The printhead, carriage sub board A, decorder input board which connects the 2 ribbons from sub board A to the bottom of the printhead. So it has 8 small ink catriadges, 8 tubes going to the ink tanks. You want to make sure to always maintain the head or ti will get clogged. The white ink has to be circulated by a pump which is onboard the machine. You want to make sure that no ink gets into the carriage otherwise it will deteriorate the ribbon cable that goes into the head and can cause print issues. Maintainance is vital. It does print very well and many different suraces that are prepped or made for UV prints.

Thank you for your comment. For sure if the pinch rollers have too much tension or not adjusted equally/properly this too can cause shifting as well as a vinly being pulled off of a heavier roll too can cause slight shifting if not prepulled for the job. I hope you have all of the quirks smoothed out.

@@TheWorkBench Yep! I do now By the time I got my pinch rollers adjusted to about the 3rd thread ring, the whole UScutter SC unit started behaving beautifully! Thanks!

My issue was the yellow grounding block located behind the seat left side just under the small fairing under the seat. I had an issue there and perhaps something is arching or loose so that the pump may not be properly grounded possibly. I would start there. It also won't hurt to replace the pump even which I had also done. This hopefully should help. Also, check in the nose of the front CBR fairing, there is a tilt sensor that will shut off the bike when it tilts/crashes to cut the fuel. This could be tilted and needs to be more upright. Also, check the relays that are also near the tank on the left side. These 3 things are the only things I can think of at this time.

Hola. En lo que respecta a las líneas adicionales que está haciendo el cortador, hay algunas cosas a tener en cuenta. Número uno, si tienes un gráfico o usaste uno de la web, si no está vectorizado y comienzas a hacer una pegatina con él, podría tener más de una capa y tendría que romperse con Sure Cuts a Lot o tal vez en Vinyl Master. Tendrías que separar las capas hasta que tengas una buena para usar. A veces la gente se olvidaba de vectorizarlo y de ahí venían esas líneas adicionales. La segunda es ver exactamente lo que son. Dale la vuelta al vinilo sobre su soporte de papel y luego usa la herramienta de adaptador colgante para 'trazar' pero no cortar el diseño de la pegatina, esto te permitirá ver qué está haciendo exactamente. ¿Son las líneas consistentes sin importar qué grapic / pegatina esté cortando o es solo esta pegatina? Asegúrese de hacer el 'corte de prueba' que está en el cortador y desconecte el cable USB. Creo que cortará una estrella en una caja. Debería hacer eso, si está estropeado o es malo, entonces podría ser la placa base. A veces, el "corte de prueba" es bueno, pero el cortador comenzará a cortar/trazar números y letras al azar en un lado, lo que es una placa base defectuosa. Hasta ahora, estos son los 2 mayores problemas que podría tener con un cortador MHMK2 de USCutter. Normalmente, los motores y otras partes de la cortadora no son el problema. Estoy seguro de que estás colocando el vinilo donde viene hacia adelante y hacia atrás sin seguir demasiado a la izquierda y a la derecha. No creo que se trate de líneas recortadas en las que, por ejemplo, un círculo no se cierra o las letras se ven extrañas. En Vinyl Master hay ajustes para sobrecortar y conseguir la mejor calidad. El tercer problema podría ser que el perfil del cortador no se configuró correctamente y el cortador se ha estropeado o causado un problema al azar. Todavía puede funcionar, pero si el controlador y el perfil en el software y la computadora no están configurados correctamente, puede causar problemas de corte. ¿Alguna vez el cortador ha causado un problema en el pasado? ¿Alguna vez el carro de corte ha hecho zumbidos y golpes a la izquierda o a la derecha? Hello, In regards to the extra lines that the cutter is making there are a few things to look at. Number one, if you have a graphic or used one off the web, if its not vectored and you start to make a sticker out of it, it could have more than one layer and it would have to be broken by Sure Cuts a Lot or perhaps in Vinyl Master. You would need to seperate the layers until you have a good one to use. Sometimes people forgot to vectorize it and thats where those extra lines came from. The second is to see extactly what they are. Flip over the vinyl onto its paper backing and then use the pend adapter tool in order to 'plot' but not cut the sticker design, this will let you see what its doing exactly. Are the lines consistant no matter what grapic/sticker you are cutting or is it only this sticker? Make sure that you do the 'test cut' that is on the cutter itself and unplug the USB cable. I believe that it will cut a star in a box. It shold do that, if its messed up or bad then it could be the motherboard. Sometimes the 'test cut' is good but the cutter will start cutting/plotting out random numbers and letters on one side which is a bad motherboard. So far these are the 2 biggest issues that you could have with an MHMK2 cutter from USCutter. Normally the motors and other parts on the cutter are not the problem. I am sure that you are placing the vinyl where it comes forward and rearward without tracking too far to the left and right.I don't believe that these are overcut lines where say a circle is not closing or the lettering looks strange. In Vinyl Master there are settings for overcut and getting the best quality. The 3rd issue could be that the profile for the cutter was not set up correctly and the cutter has been randomly messing up/causing an issue. It can still function but if the driver and profile in the software and computer is not setup correctly, it can cause cutting issues. Has the cutter ever caused a problem in the past? Has the cutter carriage ever made buzzing sounds and slams to the left or right?

@@TheWorkBench Hola muchas gracias por responder. los archivos que manejo son sencilloss yo mismo los he disañado en flexi, el probelam esta que hace una lineas en diagonal y otras formas raras tambien. No se si esta mal configurado el programa. he revisado pero no encuentro algun problema con ellos. Me podrias ayudar a configurar el Plotter?

@@yerssonsupelano6843 También puede intentar guardar los archivos como otro tipo de archivo y ver si eso ayuda. Creo que es la interpretación del expediente. Esta sería la única otra explicación de las líneas impares. Pido disculpas, pero no podría ayudar de esta manera. En la empresa utilizábamos software para iniciar sesión en los ordenadores de los clientes cuando les ayudábamos y podíamos hacerlo. Vería si pudiera llamar a la línea de soporte y luego podrían iniciar sesión en su computadora y asegurarse de que tenga todo configurado correctamente. 1 425 481 3555 Están más actualizados que yo en este momento. También puede enviar un ticket al soporte y ellos también pueden programar una llamada con usted. Creo que puede haber alguien allí que pueda hablar español. support.uscutter.com/support/tickets/new

Hello Bryce, This may indicate a couple of things. Normally it is an indication that the temperature controller, that whole box-like display needs to be replaced. It could also mean that there is a disconnection from the heating plate to the controller due to overheating and the wire does not conduct any longer. Normally when we saw this, we just changed out the controller but if we looked in more detail we saw the disconnection somewhere due to a burnt wire. I believe this is the wire that connects the red and black wires to the back of that temperature controller and if its loose or the wire has burnt out, you could get this 'HH' showing on the screen. Also, with the heat press unplugged, check the 2 black covered wires just behind the heating plate and see if its a white ash color indicating too much heat over time that has burnt the wire off the heating element. I believe that the red and black joined wire goes to the heating element and feeds into the controller to be able to sense the temperature of the element as it heats and cools to maintain the temp that you had selected. There also is a solid state relay in the back, screwed to the bottom, inside of the press once you take off the back. It should be a square, greyish object that has voltages and a red light on it indicating power. If that is broken or no longer conducting, this also could be the cause. The SSR, solid state relay I believe could be found on Amazon as well as the tempterature controller. There should be an exact number on it somewhere besides the XMTE like ' 618T' or something. USCUtter used to sell those parts but they were the older models from back in 2012 and I think 2018 that we had used to sell. I do not remeber exactly what that controller number is off the top of my head. It looks like USCutter is still selling it with a new temperature controller and even that could work. But it seems the shape of the old controller vs the new one would not fit. Transforsa Heat Press: uscutter.com/Transforsa-Clamshell-Heat-Press-15-x-15/ Digital Controllers: uscutter.com/uscutter-heat-press-replacement-parts/ Phone number for support: 425-481-3555 I would contact support and see if you can get a picture of the wiring behind the new controller and see if all wires connected are the same as what you have on the older controller. If they match, more than likely you could use the newer one. Sometimes, USCUtter will ask you to create a ticket, this way you both can share photos too. Submit a ticket: support.uscutter.com/support/search?term=create+a+ticket Setting the temp for the heat press: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CTIKdBqN9mo.htmlsi=EkI9XEjaIhsQ4CPj Be sure to include photos and a good clear shot of the wiring and controller for support. I am hoping that its just a loose wire or a wire that has been burnt out and an easy fix. Let me know what you have found out.

Please i know it being long i mean the video but mine has 2 light and it shows red on the off indicator and never heat up

I apologize for my late reply. It depends on the graphic that you are contouring. You can however up the speed and it is just as fast. Accuracy for the Titan is always improving as there are 2-3 companies that are working together to improve contour cutting, easy calibration, better registration marks and other program features that allow other calibration for the Titan cutter. The Graphtec is Japanese made I believe where the Titan is Chinese. Either way, the Titan is a great competator to the Graphtec. Both the Graphtec and Titan works with the new latex HP printers. Starting a buisness you can always use the Titan and it will work suberbly. In the log run gaetting a Graptec is a great buy as they have a great life span and little issues. The Titan has fast cutting speeds as the Graptec does too. The Graptec has other advantages in contour cutting where the Titan does not. Graphtecs do perforated cuts arount the contour cut where as the Titan does not. Graphtec is a big name brand compared to the Titan aka 'Saga' the Chinese company or manufactuers. Yes, the Titan can cut fast and can take thicker materials like the Graptec can.

@@TheWorkBench thank you for the informative reply! Can it still do two cutlines as in easy peel sticker cuts? Thats the most important to me so diecut with a kiss cut around the image

@@dandee28 You are very welcome. The best bet for the die, kiss and 2 line cuts would be the graphtec because it has 2 tool holders for kiss cut and perforated cuts around that main cut so that the stickers are easier to pop out individually. I do not believe that the Titan has that ability as well as the graphtec currently does. It can be done but I think its far easier with the graphtec. I know that the Titan and Vinyl Master software has come a long way and perhaps will have the ability to cut like the Graphtec in respect to diecut/kiss cut and perforated cuts around the decal.

@TheWorkBench ahh okay. Before I get the graphtec I have a vinyl express q42 which I'd essentially like the graphtec fc8000. Do you think it can do perforated cuts and kiss cut? It has the arms system too

@@dandee28 Yes, the FC8600 actually is the cutter that we had along with the HP Latex printer to do demos in our showroom. We had a tech do kiss cuts and perforated cuts. I believe they were using Corel Draw and each color line represented those certain cuts and the FC8600 had done the cuts in order of the software.

For a heat sensor, would this be the solid state relay, the control panel? Is it the small white 'thermister thing' that senses heat? For some reason 'heat sensor' is not ringing a bell in my head yet. Normally USCutter has these as extra parts that either they are supplied by the manufacturer or scavanged from defective units that are damaged during shipping. Last, on Amazon you could look for solid state relay with the specifics on the small part. I did see a few that might work. I would ask USCutter and see if they have any stashed away that they could send to you. We used to do that back when I was there working with them. uscutter.com/contact-us

Hi Bobby, I am guessing that you also have a MHMK2 cutter there. Normally if anything power related happens to the cutter first its has a fuse inside the left endcap I believe. The right side, the motherboard. If the fuse is not burnt out then see if the green ight on the power supply is at least on. If the green power light is not showing them go ahead and take the power from the motherboard so its disconnected. Then try to see if the power supply shows a green light steady. If the green light is on more than likely the motherboard could have been damaged. If the motherboard is bad nothing will happen of the cutter will act up making grinding noises with the carriage moving left to right or just to the right without stopping. If you have tried the fuse, different power cord check the power supply. The only other ting is the motherboard. If I am wrong about the cutter, please let me know which one you have.

Hello great video, will try removing power from the motherboard. The fuse is good, different power cord and outlet were used. The Cutter is the MH 721-MK2@@TheWorkBench my power supply is EXACTLY the same as in the video. The power supply on the US CUTTER site is a lot different with higher voltages and a -8V. Surprisingly the TITAN cutter power supply is closer in match

@@bobbyramdass7317 It could be that the picture on the website is wrong. Sometimes it can happen that they take a picture of a Titan power supply which you can flip a switch for 220v to 110v and have it labeled as the MH power supply. As far as I know the MH power supply already comes with ability to range a certain voltage without any switch to be fliped, its automatic and thats why in the picture it doesn't look the same. I would get someone on the phone to grab a power supply and walk you through a matchup of where wires go according to the label to be sure if needed. If they send out the MH power supply it should be the same. I have actually never tried connecting a Titan power supply to an MH cutter. I am not sure how that would work. If I was still there working, I would try it and consolidate the power supply the same for both MH and Titan.

I would think that the issue could be the meauring of the material and its not reading the last pinch roller. The step-size in the software could be off. Its possible that the model selection of the cutter itself thinks its a wider model and needs to be reset. Perhaps the material sensors need to be cleaned. I believe when it starts up the cutter goes to each pinch roller then back, it could be possible that the number of pinch rollers is set wrong on the cutter itself. You may be able to turn off the material measuring when the cutter starts up and manually place the carriage where you want it. These are some of the things I think could cause the issue. Let me know what you find out and I'll try to figure out something else.

I apologize for not answering quicker. Possibly you may have found the issue. Its possible that the software registration marks/profile its using is not set up properly and from what I remember the LIYU brand of cutters was being worked on at that time by Chinese vendors and Vinyl Master to create a better, lower cost auto contour cutter. Its possible that there is a glitch. Its possible that the carriage 'eye' or registration marks reader is dirty, too close or too far away as I believe there is a small adjustment for the eye. If it does not auto move to the mark, I would see if I could move it slowly manually by hand if its possible to move the carriage or with the software controls if not by cutter itself. I believe those motors are stepper motors so its more likely to be moved by hand but normally you should never have to do that. It has been a while for me with this cutter and I was not able to spend a lot of time on it. Make sure in Vinyl Master that the profile is under USCutter/SC2 ARMS cutter. In the Vinyl master software you should be able to recalibrate just like a Titan cutter which the cutter makes the registration marks, reads them and then adjusts accordingly. Sometimes you just need to recalibrate. Try this with a sheet of paper/flip vinyl over to paper backing side and go to the ARMS controller in the software. If the registration marks are made in a different program and then you expect it to cut the same, there could be a difference in the software/hardware trying to read the marks. Normally the project can be created in any software. Once the image is brought over into Vinyl Master, here is where you should add the registration marks and contour cutting lines adjustment. Let me know what you find out and if at all this helps. Again, I do apologize for the late reply.

Hello, I believe being new, the first and most important thing is loading the vinyl and doing mock runs. Basically, flip the vinyl over to the paper backing. Then use the pen tool to plot out how the cutter would cut. This way you can practice without cutting lots of vinyl. The biggest thing is loading it properly because if you're doing a say, 5 foot job that has long straight cuts needed the vinyl placement and pinch rollers are vital. When you load vinyl, go ahead and run it forward through the cutter 5 feet and see just how straight it comes out or it starts angling hard right away or after 1 foot. Make sure to give your project slack from the roll because the small motors can have a hard time pulling and this can also make your project misaligned and have bad cuts. I believe I do have a video or 2 on loading material and traction for vinyl cutters. Go ahead and try what I had described and let me know how you're doing.

My plotter is vevor sk 1350 model

I feel like some kind communication failure/error.

Hello, Yechnically I do not know what sensor it is but it is some kind of optical sensor which senses the break in the rail before it hits the side wall of the cutter. If yours is broken off, bent or you can not fix it the part is availiable here : uscutter.com/uscutter-sc2-vinyl-cutter-replacement-parts/ You would have to get the whole carriage. If you call them perhaps they can just send out the small green borard that the sensor is on. We used to do that but not sure these days. Most of the time you can bend the snsor back into place and then place the black squarish cover that you will see goes over the sensor, which uncovered looks like a small crystal bulb.