My Channel will cover a wide variety of things, RVing, travel, RV upgrade projects, drone flights, home projects... I'm an engineer, whenever I'm working on something interesting or traveling somewhere cool...I will post things.
They suck. The "Vortex" ball cannot be fully drained of water and you can't verifiy if it has any anti freeze in it when you winterize. This causes the water in the ball to freeze which damages the mixing ball which leads to a BIG LEAK. You can't order a new mixing ball because their not made anymore and Furrion's only solution is to replace the water heater. YOU PAY for this because they claim it wasn't winterized when in fact they is NO way to make sure that the ball is drained of water!!!! We went through this this year and had to remove the mixing ball and bypass it. This works but you end up with hot and cold spurts during showering. I had the bowl repaired and modified with a lowpoint drain so you can get all of the water out of the bowl during winterizing and can then verify that the bowl has antifreeze in it. The ball freezing and breaking is not an "up north" problem, I live in northern AL. So upgrade to a furrion tankless at your own risk!! I have pics if anyone wants to see what it looks like after it get damaged from freezing.
Love this and looks great. I'm looking to put a better lock on mine. However, it does have a lock that handle should have a spring-loaded plastic part that presses down and clips into the part next to your new lock. It's a pain in the but to undue though and is why I'm looking to do the same thing you have done.
Thanks so much for your video chronicles of this build. Am attempting something similar, but I'm building the entire kitchen out from scratch in a skoolie. I read your Amazon review and came here. Completely agree on why i need a dishwasher! Lucked into an older model Fisher Paykel DS603L dishwasher for $40. Similar dimensions. I think it'll look perfect once complete. Few questions: 1) Is the heat from cooking ever an issue for the drawer just underneath to cooktop? 2) Why did you choose to have the dishwasher on the bottom level (as opposed to having the drawer at the bottom)? 3) After you finished the microwave/oven install, do you think there were any other nooks/crannies you could have reclaimed for storage? 4) Would the microwave have fit where the drawer was? I think that'd be pretty neat. Thanks again for your effort with this, made my life (and headaches) much easier!
This looks great! I've never done any wiring, but did you just attach several of the 5.5" connectors together? OR did you do some kind of splicing to extend the cord to the back end of the grill?
Hi Joel, yes, this does require a bit of minor soldering skills, very basic stuff to make the pigtail which goes to the back of the unit. It's pretty easy stuff, but, would not recommend it unless you have basic wiring/soldering skills.
Yep, it is a 20amp plug, it's difficult to say everything correctly when you are in the middle of a video. I thought about updating the video, but I can just update the description above instead. I'm very impressed by the length of time I will have operating off the 100Ah lithium battery. Honestly VERY happy to get rid of that Norcold 2-way fridge, it never really got cold enough regardless of the temperature outside, my nightly Blue Bell little icecream cups were always too soft, haha.
Well, there was some seaweed that washed up on the beach. It wasn't too bad, I've seen much worse depending on where you are. I saw one day when they drove a big John Deere tractor with a drag on the back cleaning it off. Haha, I left the ewww...
I know others appear to be have a few issues, but, mine has been good after the first was DOA. All things have issues eventually. My wife takes 30 minute showers in the camper, have to leave the grey valve open till the day before leaving nowadays just so I'm not constantly dumping the grey tank. 🙃
Well, I was merely looking for the 12V circuit for control power, there's not a lot of load on that circuit. I used a multi-meter to locate those wires. I would anticipate the colors on every RV are unique. I re-utilized the 120V power for another GFCI outlet in the bathroom, you don't need that. The original Atwood had 12V power for the control circuit only, to "enable" the water heater, essentially the gas side of your water heater. The electric side of the hot water heater is "enabled" by 12V too, the other switch. It merely turns on a relay to provide the 120 volts when you are running electric. This is the way mine was wired...hope that helps.
Thanks, I've honestly never really seen a little travel trailer like mine with a Fisher Paykel dishwasher. My wife thought I was crazy, so did my brother, but he helped me anyway, haha. However, it works perfectly and my wife has decided that she LOVES it...haha.
Joe Crusco - 2 weeks ago. My Furrion event. First new one failed when it got cold. Grand Design claimed it was my fault for not winterizing it properly? 1st problem was there was a special twist on the nautilus’s settings that you had to know about only if you contacted GD. So I had to buy a new one, but got grand Design to pay for the labor. Got a new one, discussed with Furrion about camping in cold weather. They told me I needed to buy a new control board or it would fail below 39 degrees F. Instead of doing a ReCall Furrion wants the customer to pay for the board change and install it yourself or put out more money to have a Rv shop do it!
I'm really sorry I didn't reply before now, RU-vid never sent me any kind of notifications or anything. Yes, it is noticeable, you can still hear it of course, but the decibel scale is not linear, a few decibels does make a difference.
I would like to switch our Suburban water heater for the Furrion but I’m concerned of how it will be when camping and the temps dip into the low 30s and high 20s at night.
I will say this for sure, the on demand hot water is fantastic 👌 😀 Long showers, my wife loves it, for longer campground stays just have to leave the grey valve open till a day before we are leaving otherwise my wife will fill it on one/two showers, haha, changes camping from that perspective 😀
We have the Furrion installed in a tiny home (brand new unit) which is hooked up to a line from my home. It runs 65 ft. through a 1/2" line at standard 30-50 psi and I can tell you it will not keep up. Temp is set at 120 deg F and nice warm showers turn cold intermittently. Apparently the only fix is to dial down the flow rate with a valve that in my case does not want to turn without fear of breaking it. I've been talking with Furrion CS and that has been almost worthless. You talk to a guy who is not a technician, but only reads from a manual and asks elementary questions like.... "do you have propane in your tank?" I suppose turning down the flow rate, if I can do so without snapping the valve shaft, will fix the issue but I'm not looking for a trickle of a shower. I'm not too impressed just yet.
I've not really had a problem in my camper, we seem to have plenty of hot water and it sips propane. Every application is going to be different, I probably would have gone with a house type on demand unit for a tiny home, just my opinion. Sorry for the delay, RU-vid is horrible with their notifications.
Welp. This just made up my mind whether I would do a turbo setup or a supercharger setup. I have a 2003 white Tahoe with the 5.3 litre and it's a Z vin. Yup, she's got that e85 motor that needs, and insisted to my wife, needs that supercharger stat! We've had it 10 years and she's our "MON5TER" (including said personalized plates of the same name) I promised my ol'lady that I would keep her running and shiny for ever because she insisted that it's going to be her forever truck. I definitely landed a good ol'lady. She's now a diehard bowtie girl and the only other vehicles we can own are Harley's! Finally I found a broad that doesn't mind if I order bike parts 😜
Thanks so much for this. I have changed my plans to use their product in my RV. Their products are manufactured in China, another reason to consider another manufacturer. Thanks again ❗ 👍
Firstly, thank you, thank you for your videos. Very helpful during my install of the Furrion. I also replaced a G6A-8E Atwood Gas only water heater. I've tried to follow your rewiring video for the switch. I opened up the control panel, and the switch for the water heater has only two connection points.. Out of each of those there are multiply connected wires going to small circuit boards, etc. I'm assuming these could be to monitoring systems. Is it possible the blue wire from the old water heater had been wired out of the switch already?????? I haven't tried the new Furrion tankless yet, and during testing of the line at the new water heater and turning on the RV Water Heater switch for power to the lines showed voltage and the little green light in the switch was on as it always was with the old water heater. What I read also about the Atwood is that the blue line was the light loop, and the water heater would work even if the light was out. So quite honestly, the wiring situation confuses me. But do you agree that the switch would have more connectors other than the two if I had this blue wire issue????????? This is a 2011 Coachmen Mirada motorhome. . ANOTHER INTERESTING FACT. I have an external propane tank hooked up to the propane line that fed the old gas water heater. When that would be empty, I got no visual indication at the control panel. The light on the switch was still green. The water was just cold. I'd go hook up another tank, sometimes turning the switch off then on again, but I'm not even sure I always did that, but 10 minutes later, the water was warming up already. Would this indicate there was no DSI associated with this switch????
Sir, I really do apologize that I never responded to you, RU-vid is not my day job, I'm an engineer for DoD and family stuff, I missed it. It's difficult making a video like this because everyone's situation is going to be different. In my case, using the wiring diagram I got off the internet for the water heater I have which is also an Atwood, I tapped into power at the water heater WITH the water heater connected to power while troubleshooting...trying to find out why the water heater was receiving no power. If you measure the power directly from the switch at the water heater mounting location, it appeared to have power, 11-12 volts, but the moment I connected the water heater load, just for control circuitry which is all it is, voltage went to 0 volts. So, this told me that likely, the 11-12 volts I was reading with the multimeter was probably some bleedover voltage thru a LED or the like. Whether what I did was correct or not, all I can tell you is that it worked. Since I didn't design the circuit for Atwood, my theory on this is that the DSI circuit on the Atwood gas control valve provides the ground for this circuit, therefore, I grounded it at the control side on the switch panel to emulate that function. It turns out I was correct and this worked, voltage at the water heater now measured 13.6 volts and stayed that when the water heater was turned on. I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but I did want to respond.
Agreed, that's why I turned the flexible silicone impregnated fiberglass hose to blow directly out the top vent of the refrigerator...let me say generally, it's directed out the top vent. I've really not seen any impact, I've used the convection oven multiple times. Lastly, even after running the convection oven at 350F for 30 minutes, the air coming out that hose has cooled down a bit and it's not 350F air coming out of it. Much cooler actually, I have not measure it, maybe I should. Hmmm. Nice comment, Thanks. Note: The hose is rated for 480F and the convection oven doesn't get that hot, 400F is max I think.
Hey, Rocket City RVer! New subscriber here. Thanks for checking out our channel, as well! I'm like you, brother, I've got to do it myself, if I can (and sometimes even if I can't!) You're talking like an engineer in this video....I got you, but my wife's eyes glazed over. Great video. Moving on to your schematic video! Peace!
Many of us in the same situation with kits. I am 16 kits away from finishing my Delorean build. I was going to start the Enterprise but told myself to wait till my car was done. With mods I am 1800.00 in on my car but glad I held off on the ship.
Yes your not alone on this I have back to the future DeLorean just needed 4 more kits to complete they did change me for them and never received them this sucks badly
I’m just going to wait till there is something final from Eaglemoss before I decide what to do with my kit. I’ve got up to issue 20. If Eaglemoss vanishes of the earth and no one like Fantome takes over. I’ll either learn 3D modeling and printing in hope of fill in the blanks or make a “what if” mod where the enterprise gets assimilated by the borg.
It's not over folks. Best to be patient. The company is in Administration, so all the books are being looked at and no decision has yet been made was to what will be the next course of action. It's possible that a buyer will bring back Eaglemoss (depending on the debt the company holds). Or another company will take on the part works - it is worth noting that DeAgostini Japan distributes the Enterprise -D and the Delorean is distributed by DeAgostini Spain, but was Eaglemoss in UK. The parts are in China and they need to be shifted....but to who? Don't be surprised if you will be asked to make a full upfront payment for all the parts.
I'm seven issues away from a finished Ecto1. I'm really hoping they get this straightened out. I talked myself into this kit back in 2020 when I preordered.....never again.
While I understand companies struggling, to me, there seemed to be no indicators that Eaglemoss was hurting financially. IMO, the pandemic situation should have increased their business with those having to stay/work from home. Further, it seemed like a good business model, they charged me automatically for the build kits and other items...I was OK with that as long as they delivered...
