"How to" videos on mechanical stuff, with a little bit of know how, you can do the work! I also enjoy posting other miscellaneous stuff like the cow working and ranch videos, enjoy!
You can add a telltale to the thermostat and give yourself a visual on whether the water pump is working at all times! Only takes 15 minutes, a 1/4" piece of plastic line and a 1/4" 90 degree fitting with a pipe tap to install on engine - the only thing you need is to drill and tap a NPT thread to match your fitting
My hoses aren't blown out but the coolant has filled the reservoir and now won't suck back in and the car gets so hot the coolant just sprays out of the radiator cap.
i was driving today and noticed my temperature of the car was at max. i pulled over and realized my radiator coolant tank was bubbling, sizzling and steaming out. i turned the car off and added more antifreeze. Even then after i began to drive again about 15 seconds later it began to bubble again. i also beleive that the radiator fan hadnt been spinning. can u tell me what to check please. 2000 honda civic se. thank you
Im doing this with my 02. It was a battle just getting the four bolts out of the back of the hub assembly but now I cannot get the axle nut removed. I have tried every possible technique I can think of penetrating fluid wax heat with a torch long breaker bars of pipes on them using a jackto try to spend the nut free nothing has been working
The big problem with these cable hood releases is rust in the sleeve where the cable enters at the hood latch. Before you install the new cable and sleeve, run about 10 drops of 30w motor oil down the cable and into the sleeve at the latch end. It will help keep the cable running nice and smooth for 20 years. It also helps to give the latch mechanism a blast of lube; not WD40.
Hi, I have an 1.4 aerodeck year 2000, I have changed termostat, coolant not leaking...I get the temperature variations up to the upper quarter of the dash indicator. What about the temperature sensor?
You probably have an air bubble in the water jacket, making it low on coolant, try burping the system by letting air out at the thermostat hose. Then add more coolant.
I spent three well two stressful days trying to bleed my clutch on my 01 civic and I tried every way I saw I thought I was gonna need a vaccum pump but this way did it!! Thanks for your video it helped!!
Outstanding explanation. Very helpful. At the last part of your video it seems like the slave is angled so that the bleeder is the highest part. Do you think that helps avoid having air get trapped anywhere?
The best way is to reverse bleed it, fill a large syringe with brake fluid, attached to a clear tube, attach tube to bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and crack it open pump fluid upwards into the reservoir from the slave cylinder it takes about 10 minutes and all the air is pushed out the system. Job done.
@@rm4213 make sure you have pumped all the air out of the pipe from the syringe before you connect it to the slave cylinder bleed nipple, otherwise you will be putting more air in to the system.
I spent 2 hours with a vacuum bleeder on mine and only got a little fluid. It's weird. The master and slave are both mechanically functioning, I can't find any leaks, pressing the clutch pedal forces air and fluid out of the slave, but the reservoir level doesn't go down or only occasionally dips by a barely noticeable amount when I tighten the bleeder and raise the pedal. I know the system holds pressure because my vacuum gage on the slave bleeder says so. But I can't get all the air out. I'm about to try using an oil syringe to force fluid through the slave and hopefully that can push any air up through the reservoir since I can't get it out of the slave. Been messing with it for a week now lol.
Question for whoever can answer. Basically initial problem was clutch was all the way to the floor, and stayed compressed. So I changed the master, still nothing, changed the slave, and now im having a heck of a time bleeding it. I dod the steps as you did in the video. I open the bleeder screw (bs), compress pin, a little bit of fluod comes out, then whem its bottomed out, I close bs, But the pin stays compressed, doesnt go back up until I open the bs again, but when I do that, all of the liquid goes back in the slave that just came out. Can anyone shed some light here?
Pull the thing out manually after closing the bleeder then crack bleeder and push it down and close it and pull it back out keep doing it that way till just fluid comes out
I replaced mine with a billet tappet cover. It has a o-ring, so it will resist an oil leak for a very long time. If one had to replace a failed VP44, I would certainly replace the tappet cover seal at the same time. Also, the Cummins vacuum pump reseal kit is only $35, so it might be wise to proactively reseal it at the same time. It is possible to remove the pump with the VP44 installed, but the process is easier while the VP44 is out of the way.
Works!!! Take your time after this the clutch master I guarentee you will have air in it. Use a clear tube & keep bleeding the clutch master & it’ll come back up after you bleed it. Have patience 😊
We never used bells but I'm sure it wasn't as big of an area.. unfenced etc.. it was about 3 miles by 10 probably forest lease. Bells probably would have helped.. they sure know how to hide sometimes.. pretty neat hearing them!!
We never used bells but I'm sure it wasn't as big of an area.. unfenced etc.. it was about 3 miles by 10 probably forest lease. Bells probably would have helped.. they sure know how to hide sometimes.. pretty neat hearing them!!
