Welcome to BallsOutPerformance. My name is Archie. Been working on cars since I was 15. I specialize in Japanese cars but also work on a lot of GM trucks. On this channel you will see performance, repairs, customization, bodywork/ paint, suspension modification, tint, car wraps, audio, guns, etc. Really no limitations. Stay tuned to check out my current and future projects. Be sure to comment and leave suggestions. Thanks.
Watching this video because I took too long after removing it before putting it back in and forgot where most of the wiring sits/clips into. Thanks for a good reference video
Another cautionary note is that it may be a real bugger to disconnect the electrical connector to remove the coils, the tab not being readily accessible on my vehicle. Since my coils were trashed anyway, I ground the connector down at its mount with a drill and rasp bit to get it off the mounting tab, which enabled me to turn it around to access the plastic tab to disconnect it. There must be a special circle in hell for the engineers who designed that one, where they have to take apart their own electrical connections.
Hey I have a 19’ 1.5 Accord, it struggles with cold starts in the morning to accelerate as well as when I come to a complete stop the rpm’s bounce around and feel the car almost jumping to accelerate. Is this the fix I’m looking for I can’t find anything wrong with it
Cool. I didnt think of wrapping mine gonna put cloth instead. They make a wear tape for aircraft interiors and I'm going to put that on the back so it doesnt rattle. Looks good.
Its probably the bearing. My seal ended up leaking again about 4 months later. It had a little bit of play. I replaced the bearing with a good Timken and a new seal and its been fine ever since
@@ballsoutperformance okay I have a 2009 tahoe 5.3 4x4 I think 6l80 do you know what part I need for the bearing and seal I cannot find it. The exact and or part numbers
Amazing video!! On my channel I complain about the same rough idle problem (P0172 error code) which required changing all 4 fuel injectors and fuel rail on my 2018 1.5T Accord. I experienced this issue one year before your post otherwise I may have attemped it myself instead of spending ~$1600 for a mechanic to do the job. Hopefully some of my viewers find your video and save a chunk of money or give your their business. Massive respect! 💪🙂
Great DIY and video what a pain to get off the thrust plate separated after removing the plates bolts. I was just tapping it with a hammer and screw driver and a metal chunk broke off. Got new one threw it on and good as new thank you man
Dam that’s it. Exactly where I think mines leaking seeping from thanks. Great work there’s another known leak under that ear valve but to the side it’s a plastic cover with that same o ring. Then there’s the VVT seal on back of passenger side of engine. Just a heads up.
Thanks for this video. I found out reason I couldn't put my window down is my motor was continously turning to the up position. I did a light test on the up and the light is always on, even if I'm not pressing up. Do I have wiring issue?
@ballsoutperformance I unplugged the switch and no continous power! I'll pick up switch from the junk yard tomorrow and try that. Thanks for your quick response!
Hey Brotha! I appreciate the video! I love these old cars, too. I want five 7th gen civics in rotation - I drive all day everyday for my job over this tristate SE area, and further. Any other seat gets me sore, but not these for some reason. Haha. I've got a coupe and a sedan, so far, both 2003's 5spd. Prob nearin half million on the sedan, and thinking of a full front end rebuild, but, from experience, I am very wary about the low aftermarket quality in these parts, especially when I rely so heavily on them. From your experience, can you recommend good lasting quality parts brands and even ones to avoid when it comes to all things suspension? Many thanks and best wishes!!
The only aftermarket I recommend for suspension is MOOG. For wheel bearings, MOOG, National, or Timken. I used to do suspension work for a living, and thats the only parts I seen that held up, other than OEM.
@@ballsoutperformance I'm just interested in a OEM or better ride - but quiet, comfortable, smooth as possible with the short wheelbase, but also heavy duty for high speed RR tracks and potholes. I pretty much floor it between stops. I mean, it's a 5spd, right? Haha Would just replacing bushings with some space age upgrade material in my current OEM parts be a better option then MOOG? When I look for high performance parts, I always find race/lowering stuff, but not much for an OEM+ ride. I don't wanna pay thousands, but is there a next tier or two up of some specialty high performance type parts I should consider? Ya know - the most for the least, type thing. Certainly not into diminishing returns, but don't mind spending for something that would make being in a civic all day everyday -highway and city with multiple stops- the best it can be. Thanks again, Archie!! New subscriber and binger. Haha
For a street car id just go with Moog. Theres not much middle ground between oem style rubber bushings and performance bushings (urethane). Urethane bushings are noisy and harsh riding, not pleasurable for a typical street car. Thanks for the support
