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Partner with Doheny's Pool Supplies for all of your pool and spa needs! Do it yourself and save. Extensive inventory, eight fully-stocked regional warehouses, friendly customer service operators, popular brand name products and equipment, overnight delivery, a money-back guarantee, and a long-term commitment to customer satisfaction since 1967.
All of your swimming pool supplies, including maintenance pool chemicals, vacuum cleaners, pumps, filters, heaters, liners, solar pool covers, winter pool covers and a wide variety of other accessories are just one click away. Whether you have a traditional chlorine-based swimming pool or spa, or you use a salt generator, or alternative chemistry, Doheny's Pool Supplies is your source for discount pool equipment and swimming pool supplies.
You cannot get quality without higher price. Salt is MUCH, MUCH better for skin and respiratory system. I mentioned something strange in swimming pool 5 years ago. My skin is fine, no smell, so I asked what is so different about the pool. A guy tells me that no more chlorine, but salt. NICE. Today: Public swimming pool asks $300 for swimming from May to September. No problem for me and my wife. But, no salt. We gave up. They offer barbeque (smoke during swimming - "NICE") and Wi-Fi. Money means nothing in the US. Poor country.
We changed from Chlorine tablets to the Salt Generator years ago. I have have to replace the salt cell twice. Both have lasted over 7 years. Salt in our area runs between $7 and $9 per bag. I usually have to add five or six bags a year to keep my salt levels up, so 6 bags at $9 is $54 per year. Chlorine Tablets in our area runs from $150 to $175 per bucket. We used 3 to 4 buckets per year so 4 buckets at an average cost of $162.50 is $650 per year. The last Salt Cell I bought was $929. At about 7 years of life it comes out to $132.71 per year. So the salt and salt cell cost per year is about $186.71 compared to $650 per year for Chlorine Tablets. From our experience, using Chlorine Tablets has been much more destructive to our metal patio furniture around the pool than salt. I could never open my eyes under water when we used the tablets as my eyes burned when I did so. With the salt system, I have found that it actually feels soothing, for lack of a better word, to my eyes when I open them under water. All of this is my opinion and what my experience has been. I am sure others may have different views. Do what works better for you!!
Check the pH of the pool water. It should be between 7.1 and 7.3. When using phenol red as a test solution, the color will be orange if the pH is correct. The color will be yellow if the pH is too low and red if the pH is too high. If the pH is too low, you will be consuming chlorine at a high rate. There will be times when the chlorine level will fall to zero and algae will start to grow. If the pH is too high, the chlorine will become less effective. Use a DPD test kit for monitoring the chlorine level and maintain it between 1 and 3 ppm. Maintaining a clean, algae free pool will also extend the life of the DE in your filter.
I have one of these types of pool vacuums. It does an excellent job of getting the debris off the bottom - even fine sand particles. However! If you leave it in your pool for more than two days, the cord will *definitely* get tangled. The cord has no swiveling capability.
I thought the misinformation was the Variable Speed Pump myth that they are more economical than single speed pumps. The fact that all those extra electronic "features " that inevitably go bad. It's a lie to all accept paying 2K on a pump that will last three years max. My Pentair VSP first got water in display. Replaced that a year ago at $400. Now the bearings are bad along w/driver controller board. If its so economical, why use a 3hp pump?
Non-stop running of the filter is terrible advice. Typically a good rule of thumb is 1 hour per 10 degrees. So on a 90 degree day, run it about 9 hours. If you want to add an hour or two that's fine but shouldn't need more than that. Just run it during the hottest time of day. Recommending 24 hours is ridiculous....I managed a pool store so I'm educated on what I am talking about. You also don't need to shock every week. Often times you just need an oxidizer to free up any locked chlorine.
can a suction side pool cleaner replace a pool cleaner with a booster pump. I was given a suction side cleaner thats newer than my pressure side pool cleaner. can Polaris 360 run with a booster pump.?
Thanks Kathie! We don't currently have a video covering that topic, but if you give a call to our customer care line at 1-800-574-7665, they could answer your questions in further detail.
I have had a salt water Chlorinator since 2016 the first couple of years it worked great after a few years I would have to add a jug of liquid chlorine to keep up in the summer especially if we got a lot of rain .Periodically you have to pull the cell out of the line an clean it with a little acid wash in a 5 gallon bucket its not a big deal you just need to be careful when using acid. Also with a lot of rain you have to add a bag of salt to keep the salt range above 2700 ppm. Right now mine reads 2400 no mater what. the actual water was 4200 ppm when I had it tested. I paid 1200.00 for my unit in 2016 now a circuit board is 700 and a new cell is 1000 plus having someone troubleshoot it. I have a 24000 pool so I have to have the biggest unit they have today it is 1800.00 for a new complete unit. My last complaint is my pump and sand filter are very close to my house like a couple feet. I have noticed over the years that the cement blocks and stucco wall in that area down low are literally being eaten away. I have decided for know to go back to the old way
Chlorine price have gone through the roof. It’s insane. And a rip off. It more than doubled since the start of the pandemic. And I’m pissed about that.
Debra, great question! In your case, it would be based on personal preference. If you upgrade to a larger pump, you just need to be aware that the connection sizes may be different and that it may be a little pricier. However, you’ll end up with cleaner water and would not need to run the filter as long.
The biggest CON wih salt water pools is actually the COST: $1,000+ for the unit, $400+ for installation and then 600+ pounds of salt. Then the salt cell generating cell plates need replacement every 3-5 years at $500+ a pop. Plus there’s monthly maintenance, future salt additions and the need for a separate salt level tester. For the 5 years expense of owning a salt pool you could literally buy two decades of liquid chlorine - it’s easy math.
In addition to what’s suggested here I’d add a pack of NON- chlorine shock about 1 hour before guests arrive. Keep the pump running throughout the party. I’ve been at pool parties when the water turns cloudy and great mid event. It’s super embarrassing for the host because it appears unsafe and poorly maintained. The guests are even more embarrassed because everybody assumes somebody has been urinating on the pool. It’s insane how much organic stuff enters the water when a dozen guests get sweaty and jump in
@@Doheny Shocking on a schedule is wasteful. Only need to shock if free chlorine zeros out, high combined chlorine, after a bad heavy rain or pool party - any other time you are throwing money in the trash
If you are going to balance your own pool chemistry the first step is to throw away those test strips. They are doubly inaccurate given the colors are hard to read and each color represents a wide range rather than a discreet value. A decent liquid drop based kit may cost twice as much as strips but it will last 3 times as long and give accurate results. You can’t dose chemical additions properly without knowing accurate what your current levels are. The liquid tests aren’t hard to learn and will save a ton of chemicals, time and money in the long run
with all due respect, as I am a customer of yours for over a decade, easy - how was this helpful, as you just reviewed the stuff you sell - NOTHING ABOUT THE PROPER WAY TO BLOW OUT YOUR LINES - really? - probably the most important step for anyone north of the Mason/Dixon line - how do you release these videos, as they appear to be just thinly veiled attempt to sell only you products? I just lost 4:12 of my life that I can not get back
There should be a couple dimples towards the bottom of the floater. Just punch those holes and you should be good to go. See 0:43 for a visual of the dimples.
“The pool pump is just like the engine of your car - you want it running all the time”. Nope - who the heck keeps their car running ALL the time (and why would they)
A bit of misinformation in the video. You claim that when the pump starts making noise or squealing it is the shaft seal that is making the noise. I have over 20 years experience working on swimming pools and pool equipment and have repaired/replaced many pool pumps that were squealing and not one of them had the source of the noise being the shaft seal. On 100% of the pumps I have encountered that owner said "squealed" the source of the squealing WAS a result of the pump shaft seal wearing out, however what makes the noise when the shaft seal wears out is not the seal itself, but is rather the front pump motor bearings that the pool water got into after the shaft seal had started leaking. Replacing the shaft seal will stop the water leakage, but it will not stop the noise. The only thing that will stop the noise is replacing either the pump motor or at least the pump motor shaft bearings. And if replacing the motor shaft bearings, it's a case of false economy to try to only replace the front motor shaft bearings but not replacing the rear shaft bearings because the rear bearings sometimes encounter moisture just from the humidity in the air making them typically start to fail within a year or two after the front shaft bearings were replaced so as a customer, if the pump makes noise, your best option if the bearings are able to be replaced is to replace both motor shaft bearings at the same time that the pump shaft seal gets replaced.
I have a question for you. I have a flo pro k series pump with a 1 hp motor. It’s a W48Y magnetek motor single speed 3450 rpm attached to a jacuzzi cartridge filter on an above ground 16 foot pool. The motor dies after 15 or so years. They discontinued that motor so now I need a new pump. Can I use the same HP pump in any brand to replace it? I’m on a budget so I can’t spend a lot of money. Probably around $250 or so. What would you recommend? I got another magnetek motor but still need a pump as I busted the impeller and can’t get it detached from the motor and it seems to replace all the parts to the flo pro is way to expensive buying each individually. That was according to inyo pools website.
Hi Luis, You can see our liners here www.doheny.com/pool-supplies/liners , if you need help determining which one you need give us a call at 800-574-7665
