A perfect time for me to watch this great video, because I just finish brewing a Red Irish ale and had issues making my final gravity during fermintation. So thanks this gave me a lot to ponder moving into my next brew day. I do have a question about grinding malt. Does the size really mater all that much. Is a smaller crush or medium crush all that different in mash extraction process. I’m just a beginner in brewing so I’m wondering what some like you would say having a billion brews under their belt. Thanks!
Dark gold color, clear, white foam, moderately abundant and durable. Malty in aroma. Malty in taste, clean in profile, light hop herbalism with a metallic note. Low bitterness, carbonation and body in the norm. Correct märzen.
Very good video, thanks. I think stouts with lactose in them have always been called milk stouts in the UK. I remember back in the seventies and eighties there were some commercial ones available (e.g. Mackesons) but they weren't common, but I have noticed a few modern examples starting to appear in the supermarkets recently, such as Black Sheep Milk stout.
Brewers often choose phosphoric acid over lactic acid for pH adjustments in brewing due to the following reasons:Flavor Neutrality: Phosphoric acid is flavor-neutral at typical usage levels, meaning it doesn't introduce any off-flavors or alter the taste profile of the beer. In contrast, lactic acid can add a slight tangy or sour note when used in larger amounts, which may be undesirable in some beer styles, especially if you're not brewing a sour beer.Cost and Availability: Phosphoric acid can sometimes be cheaper and more readily available, especially in larger quantities for brewers looking for cost-effective solutions.Concentration: Phosphoric acid is usually available in higher concentrations (often 85%), so brewers can use less of it to achieve the same pH adjustments, which might be preferred for precision and efficiency.Water Chemistry: Phosphoric acid doesn’t contribute significant flavor ions to the water profile. While lactic acid contributes lactate ions, phosphoric acid introduces phosphate ions, which are generally more neutral in impact on the final beer's chemistry.
@@Ping_Localh0st127 Do you believe that at a 5 gallon brew level it makes a difference? I have never noted an off flavor using lactic acid. I do not usually use more than 3ml (max) at a time in my recipes. If I need further pH lowering I will add some acidulated malt to the grist. Also never causes me an off flavor.Maybe I just cannot detect it. Cheers!
@@SCROWMD I brew 5.5g batches.. Using lactic acid in amounts above 5.5 mL (or roughly 1 mL per gallon) may start to impart a noticeable lactic or sour flavor. If you need to add more than this to reach your target pH, consider using phosphoric acid instead, as it will have a more neutral impact on flavor.
I like your videos, always good information for us homebrewers, thank you. It is obvious to me you have had a brewing and chemistry education. I missed a brewing water chug at ending. I get it, you're standard message is important, and not chugging maintains it's credibility.
That water profile looks great to me! That should be sufficient sulfate to enhance the hops. If you are happy with how your IPA turns out, I wouldn’t change it at all.
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and process on pressure fermenting. I do it often, but very debated on forums and by local brewers. Is it really a lager, it doesn't taste the same... meh. 🍻
If you use a lager yeast, it's a lager. Plenty of lager strains ferment very clean into the high 60s or even low 70s, like W34/70. Blind taste tests show most people can't tell the difference. Brulosophy did an experiment once where they did pressure vs no pressure at high temperatures and sent the results to a lab to compare. Ester levels were actually lower on the non pressurized batch for the yeast they used. I don't know why it's so controversial if it produces great results. Brew the beer you like to drink!
This is a great video. There is so much info around on how to do a mash….heat the water to X degrees and add and stir the grain etc etc… but very little info on WHY temperatures and all other detail are so important. Thank you for offering the theory behind the practice. It is very helpful. I am from Australia and my only criticism from such an informative video is Fahrenheit is so foreign to so many of us who aren’t in the USA. Please don’t take offence as I am sure any of us who need to convert the temps will replay and note down and convert the F readings to C readings. Thank you for the information. Love all your videos and bring on more including brewing theory.
Thank you! I am sorry you are absolutely correct, this afternoon I will add all of the temperatures and their conversions into the description of this video. I will respond in this thread once I’m done!
@@thebeerjunkies1 thank you for that. It is a strange world we live in where within some areas we just cannot come to a standard. When I grew up in Aus the temperatures were in Fahrenheit and then one day the elected government changes it all on us including our money, distance and everything else. The one I just can’t get used to as a tradie was the torque settings and pressure settings. It is still foot/ lbs and PSI to me..😃
The temperatures are all added in the bottom of the video description! I agree, I wish everything was consistent. I am very familiar with metric since it is what I used in school, but I am so used to dealing with imperial here that sometimes I forget. From now on I will try to remember to include the metric measurements in the videos along with imperial.
A lot of great info, thank you! The last few brews I did ( all from same 55# two row bag) showed a big drop in my efficiency.I am blaming the grain itself as I have not changed my process or mill grind at all.
A drop in efficiency is always so frustrating! If you haven't already, I would double check the mill gap width. I noticed a significant drop in one of my mashes a couple of months ago, and when I checked my mill the gap had somehow doubled!
Mostly because this is the method we've always used and at this point I know exactly what to expect with it. Also, since we don't have rakes, we would have to stir once all of the brewing water is mixed in, so we prefer to do it all in one go.
Extremely important video right here! Thanks for posting this. I wish I could re-circulate my mash, but a single pot on the stovetop is all I can do right now. I always struggle with pH too....I'll try to bump up my calcium level to 100 ppm, and see what difference I get.
If you would like to, send me an email at brady@thebeerjunkies.com and we can try to work through some things to get that pH and water profile under control!
@@thebeerjunkies1 Another great video, cheers. I have been wet conditioning my grain pre-milling, helps maintain intact husk great for the lautering and grain bed recirculation.
Nice! I would love to try conditioning my grains. Have you noticed better efficiency and quicker conversion times compared to dry grist? And do you condition yours by steeping?
@@thebeerjunkies1 I brew with a single system, Brewzilla 35 and 65, I find that the husk is out of the way and the wort can get to the starches better. I use a spray bottle and moisten to 2% approx, 2-3 Oz per 5 gal batch.I get 75% mash efficiency on the system.
Great video, a ton of useful info to digest! What are your thoughts on shortening mash times from 60 minutes if your target gravity reading is reached sooner. Are there benefits to keeping a 60 minute mash?
Thank you! You don’t necessarily have to do a full 60 minutes, once conversion is finished you can begin mash out. You can use the Iodine Test to ensure that you have completely finished conversion by adding a couple of drops of iodine to a small sample of wort. If conversion is not complete, it will turn dark blue or black. If it is complete, it will be either clear or a shade that is very similar to the color of the wort.
I brewed this and just tapped the keg yesterday. I used the hops I had, so Citra for bittering and Mosaic/Amarillo for flavor/aroma. Came out very good.
That is exactly right, lagering is holding the beer at near-freezing temperatures for upwards of 12 weeks. It cleans up flavors by reducing lactic and acetic acids, acetaldehyde, and diacetyl. If you are using a traditional lager yeast it is highly recommended to perform this step, but you can shorten the length if you want. There are some new high pressure lager yeast strains that ferment at 67F under 15 psi and do not require a lagering period.
I'm using WLP833 with regular Helles to bring out more maltiness. Seems I'm on the same page, just lower ABV as this, however, i did add some carapils to help with head retention.
