I have a 270 (very similar) with a broken front motor mount. There is access from underneath but the top side is killing me. Any advise getting a wrench on the top?
I lifted the cab up and worked from the top. The best answer for me was having someone to help you hold one side while you tighten the other and a good amount of extensions
FINALLY got my 270 to start reliably! Get a gear reduction starter! Totally different machine! Takes way less juice to roll it over. I did have to lengthen the 3 wires that come together to the post by about 10" because the new starter has the post coming out the bottom. Also, had to relocate the breather for hyd reservoir. Totally worth it though
Highly suggest Oldtowncoleman on RU-vid who gives a much better break down in how to disassemble these lanterns. That is where I learned how to do this
@@ruraliowa8475 I've watched many of his. I know how to disassemble them. But for those that don't, you are doing them no good. A video should be useful to others. Not just to the maker.
On older skid steers something is always going to break. When pulling stubborn trees don't be afraid to approach the tree from different sides to loosen it before pulling.
I've got a 270. Bought used recently. Intermittently would start but weak. I put a rebuilt starter on, needed anyway. Replaced battery which was old and too small. Still wasn't reliably starting without boost. I then took ALL the wiring apart and inspected it and found continuity at both ends, found the usually wear in places on insulation and patched accordingly. Still no joy but the blower fan woke up, yay small win. I added more grounds, replaced the ignition switch which had signs off getting too hot. No joy. It kept blowing fuses as fast as I could put them in. FINALLY I took the tops off the relays and one was melted out around the terminal that the purple wire comes into. I've got a TON of hours in this thing. Replaced about half hoses and rebuilt the hydraulic pump which was leaking horribly. If you ever take out the pump your hydraulic coupling which drives the pump from the flywheel is probably shot. I dont know how this one was still doing anything. OEM is black with 4 ears, replacment is blue with 6. If that thing quits you're stranded dead in water.
It's always something with older machines 🤣 of course we had John Deere out and the guy could not figure anything out but still try to charge over $200
Yep i have a 250 also and it is also a wiring nightmare. Park brake issues! I also have had to replace motor mount on the rear. Pretty sure it was bad when i bought it but didn't know any better. It actually was so bad that it broke thottle lever on fuel injection pump but once fixed i havent had a problem just wish i would have replaced them all.
Helpful video. I just bought a boat with a 1977 50 HP Mercury...Majority of Wire harness is green powdered copper oxide...so I'm hoping that with a relatively cheap harness...I'll get it running and will do the impeller after that...assuming it runs...
I have an issue with mine where it sounds like you are throwing gravel at the radiator. I think my fan is getting into radiator because of motor mounts. At idle my engine is really moving around. So new radiator and find out whats causing something to hit the radiator. Good times! Thanks for the video.
It looks like there could be a button but on my skid loader there is no button, it is just a cut out. My guess it would be for an accessory if I had that option.
Thank you, my machine has hydraulic accessory, but I don't see a electrical connection point. I've tried pushing it randomly while working and nothing seems to change. No clue
Thanks for showing the coupling connector. I wasn't sure how it went on, I remove the engine several years back and I finally purchase a new engine. IPB doesn't show a clean view.
I have a 250 I'm having the same issue with. I didn't see how you finally got it to crank to raise the booms? I have jumped from my dozer, from my tractor and still can't get it to crank. I also tried jumping the solenoid on starter and just get lights on dash to light and a very soft tick tick sound! I'm was down to thinking the Relay (Fuel, starter and accessories). I appreciate the video, not many out here on skid steers that I have found!!!
Hey there, I also have a 250 and am only getting a small click when trying to start. But it starts once in a blue moon randomly. I get all the lights turning on coils heat up and when turning the key only a small click from the starter. How did your turn out ?
I'm still fighting my 270. I have to park it with booms locked up next to a building with electric for my booster. I've no flipping clue. I've replaced starter, had alternator checked, replaced ignition, manifold heater solenoid, battery, fuses, fuse block, relays, bad wiring, grid heater switch. I don't frickin know, not funny anymore...
There was allot of cussing... Fussing... Some blood and tears... Honestly I was so annoyed I couldn't even bring myself to record.. partly because it would have been so hard to film getting it in with the limited space, sorry I couldn't help ya out on that one but I think you can agree... It sucked 😂
I had to change mine last summer. It sucks with the boom up. I can't imagine with the boom down! I had a buddy lift the boom on mine with his skid while I held the pedal. It'll leak by enough oil to get the boom up and locked.
Thank you for uploading this! While greasing today (2006 model 727) I found the front jackshaft bearing had gone toes up. Our dealer has the bearings and we are picking them up in the morning. We will be mowing tomorrow evening if nothing goes wrong.
Hey, I bought the shut off switch on Amazon, a.co/d/11iQqsN , it works pretty well, thank you! Grandpa would be happy, hoping to get a live well this year 🤞
Thank you! I have a long ways to go but going back to watch the original video of this boat series, it is all worth it and I hope you think the same when you work on your boat!
I am having hydraulic issues with mainly the rear coupler that the hoses connect to. I have purchased a seal kit and will be posting a video on me trying to fumble my way through that. DEFINETLY replacing the hydraulic filter helped, but it still has a considerable hydraulic leak at the coupler.
thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a john deere 250 as well and it works but is a wiring mess!. i love to see move videos of this machine. its a popular machine but very little videos out there.
Thank you for the video. I bought a 2630 about 7 years ago, but have not used it very much (I ran it more today than I have since I bought it). The hydraulics on the loader have never worked very well, so I knew that I needed to change the filter and clean the screen, but the pictures in the book that I bought are so dark that they were not helpful. The book does list the crankcase oil capacity as 10 qts and the hydraulic oil capacity as 10 gallons. It does not specify which oils to use. Your video cleared up some of my questions.
@@michaelwelborn6576 What exactly do you mean by putting the draft down and locking it. My lift on the front end loader will only come up very slowly and if I try to lift it quicker, the lift falls as though I have over pressured the system and a relief valve has released.
We did, the container said that you need a specific thinner, methyl ethyl ketone, I can't remember what my ratio was but I think we needed more thinner than what they suggested to get it to go through the spray gun
