I recommend a panel gap larger than 0.02", so that the glue has a place to go with ease, and sawing is easy. 0.1" is what I use. As for the "glue-gap" where the flat-depth male meets flat-depth female, I'm with you on 0.02". It can't be zero because you'll have regions where the endmill can't reach and they won't be entirely flat
It works but for half the price you can get almost double the amount of walrus oil furniture butter. It works better in my opinion. Thanks for the review!
I have tried Odies, Rubio and Osmo and found the results were just fine but the price for the little dap you get is a bit challenging. A search for 'making your own' got me on the trail of being able to make my own for pennies (well, nearly pennies). First, one needs a hot plate...Amazon sells a very nice lab type hot plate for just over $50....one can also get a pound of hard way, a pound of pine resin, a quart of Limenone (A solvent made from orange peels) and some linseed oil. Melt the wax into the linseed oil by heating to about 153 or so...NO need to boil, it just needs to melt into the oil. Desolve the pine resin into the limenone, the more resin the higher the sheen, plus it hardens nicely.when applied. You will discover your own mix, but I've had good luck with 1 part oil, one part wax, 1/4 part resin with a bout the same amount of limenone. Just vary the oil and solvent to come up with the consistancy you like. wipe in on....rub it off....that's it. Mineral oil and suchlike are NOT drying oils, best not to use them. The orange peel solvent is quite pleasant and your shop will smell like a fruit salad.
I’ve been using Odies oil on all my latest projects. I don’t understand the difficulties some people have had. No heavy VOCs to deal with, smells great, can be refinished if needed like a table top. I’ve used a lot of different finishes, Boiled linseed oil, Tried and True, Watco Danish oil, Water and Oil based Poly and prefer the Odies over them all.
Will say, the owner and whoever operates Instagram account are freaking nuts. Said one thing about it not being as durable as film forming finishes and he went crazy. Started to say shit about opening my mind and that nazis are the ones who brain washed us into thinking poly etc was better than oils and that Odies was better than anything. Lot of bizarre shit, and talking online he does this ALOT.
Wonderful explanation, I have watched so many videos with so many animations but this was the best. Explaining everything with real wood examples, really makes it clear, especially what the start depth and flat depth mean. Thanks once again.
I added some… but not in this video. I think Odie’s is great for interior products. Although it doesn’t seem to ever get a hard coat like other finishes do.
I know they call it glue gap but I think it is there so it does not bottom out. This would insure that it sits on the taper and should lock in. In maching this is called a "taper lock". This is the point of the taper so that the gap on the sides close up before hitting bottom.
I used an Amana 90º v bit. I like the double ended replaceable blade feature. I have had the bit for 7 years and have used about 6 or 7 blades. It's easy to keep one on hand for when a replacement is needed. Amana Tool - RC-1102 Insert V-Groove 90 Deg x 3/4 CH x 1/2 Inch SHK CNC Router Bit Amana Tool - RC-1102 Insert V-Groove 90 Deg x 3/4 CH x 1/2 Inch SHK CNC Router Bit $131.04 Toolstoday.com 180-day return policy
What an excellent idea! Thanks!! I did a test carve but didn't go off the edge. II had to cut through it to see what the gap looked like. I was about to do some more, when I came across your video. I honestly was zeroing in on 0.02 flat depth, although I prefer a SD of 0.3. You've saved me a lot of trouble . . . and I truly, TRULY appreciate it! I'd like to buy you a drink . . . Perhaps I could Door Dash it to you ;o)
I have used a vacuum press. They work well with the disclosure that the glue does not dry even after leaving it overnight. No air…no drying. I would vacuum press an inlay for only a couple hours and the remove it so it is able to dry.
lol i just started doing inlays a couple months ago and was wondering same thing about the glue and gap. nadi just happened to use .18 and .03 Good video
I will heap on the praise as well for this video. I'm starting to do some inlays myself, and having different examples where you can visibly see the difference when you change the numbers is excellent! Appreciate you taking the time and for posting.
I just watched a video with Becky from Vectric. She was doing inlays in inlays, and started with .3 for the female, and .1 and .2 for the male. When she routed out for the 2nd inlay, she had some tear out due to the “glue gap”. So she changed the male to .28 and .02. Worked great. You could see after the 2nd routing that there was pretty much no gap, just like your .18 and .02. Yours and her changes make a big difference. That glue gap works ok with small inlays and letters, but with bigger pieces and especially on cutting boards, you can tap on the inlay and hear the void. I think after some use on a cutting board, the inlay would start to split out. My thanks to you and her for the info. Will be a great help as I am currently working on a cutting board with 2 inlays and was trying to figure out how to get rid of the gap.
I would like to add that the male flat depth isn't that important. Personally, I use .05" so there is more room for glue squeeze-out. Another hint is to add a coat or two of sealer to the female before carving, so that any squeeze-out is easier to remove.
I have been trying to wrap my brain around the numbers and until today it was not 100% clear. I used the predesigned formulas from Vectric and others but never fully understood the mechanics. Thank you, Chet, for taking the time to break this down in the way you did. This was the most helpful explanation I've seen thus far.
i know Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@William Derrick Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Good video. You stated that the pocket flat depth of .15" with a start depth of 0" gave you the best result. What was the inlay flat and start depths that went along with the pocket?
@@shaynetcrocker You can make it whatever depth your bits allow. Ive seen people set the vcarve so that the final layer will be under the surface, then mill off all excess with the CNC.
@@chweatherl I’m having issues with having larger gaps for the glue than I want. Trying to make them fit perfectly. I’ve only seen one video on deep inlays. I’m trying to get 1/2” but I’m learning from trial and error.
@@shaynetcrocker I've done deep inlay for the purpose of 3D carving it. What is your end goal? How are you clamping the pieces together? Even pressure over it all is key to a great inlay.
All these numbers make sense but my issue remains that when my cnc tries to remove .18 on the first pass, it basically destroys the material on the finer detail. I’m using a Dewalt 611 on millright system. Any tips?
I've had that happen as well. I found that there really is no need to have your female pocket all the way to .2" you can play with the numbers as much as you want. As a matter of fact, one of my best inlays was done with a .08" flat depth for the female pocket. I can't remember the male numbers off the top of my head.
Run the inlay in multiple passes. Example, I have had good success running the first pass at .078 start depth and the second tool path with a .18 start depth
It took me quite a while to understand how you can make your Start Depth "below the surface". After watching many videos it dawned on me that you're not just jamming the Vbit down into the material. Because you should run your "clearance toolpath" BEFORE the Vbit toolpath, the material has already been cleared away so that the Vbit will only be using 1/2 of the diameter of the bit to cut the side slope of the path. Hope this helps.
Caleb, I was thinking about your comment. One of the keys to great inlays is tooling. I highly recommend Amana tool's 90º V bit with the replaceable blade. It's really worth the money and with each blade you get two uses out of it.
Excellent explanation of how a v carve inlay works. I did a few before start depth ever began to make sense. Started with complicated vectors but began using basic circles and triangles before it clicked for me. Brilliant how you used such a basic pattern to create your video. Wish I had one like this when I first started.
Excellent demonstration of the different settings. I've just started trying v-carve inlays and I also thought, like you, "why would I want a 0.1" gap for glue??" I certainly don't want gaps when gluing up cutting boards or butcher blocks! I wonder if you increased the flat depth would that give you a bigger gap between the pocket and the plug piece (e.g., for bandsaw)? Hard to wrap my head around it! I think with .18 and .02, you have both a .02" glue gap and a .02" distance between the surfaces of the pocket/plug. If you did it at .18 start and 0.1 flat (assuming the pocket is .2), would that still give you the small glue pocket while giving you more space between the pieces to cut them apart? I suppose I should just experiment :) Cheers, thanks for the informative video.
One thing that will make it all easier: the "flat depth" setting on the male (plug) inlay is the gap that you will end up with after gluing and pressing the two pieces together. With a setting of .02, you will only have 20 thousandths gap. BUT: You can make that measurement anything you want- it has no bearing on the fit of the male (plug) into the female piece. So go wild with that figure. I usually make it about .0625 (1/16th gap) You could make it .125 (or more!) if you wanted to get a fat saw in there... The only thing you have to remember is that the thicker the 'flat depth' the more clearing there will be when milling the male piece...😉
