Our RTA Cabinetry is made to order and manufactured in the United States, not imported or pulled from stock. Choose from an incredible selection of high-end doors, finishes, and options, including custom sizes at no upcharge! Looking for inset cabinetry? No problem! We offer full overlay, inset, beaded inset, and now our new line of Access frameless cabinets, all featuring plywood boxes, dovetail drawers, and premium Blum hardware. See how much you save by building custom cabinets yourself! Our innovative assembly methods and helpful videos make it possible!
Hi there. I'm confused about the DIY jig measurements. You say the holes should be located at 2 1/2" and 2 3/4" but the illustration shows 2 1/2" and 3 3/4". So which are the correct measurements? I certainly don't want to drill the wrong hole locations on the frame.
What would you recommend if the drawer box appears to be tilted diagonally? i.e. there is more space in the bottom left hand side between the drawer box and the face frame, and less space in the top right hand side? I've confirmed that it looks tilted before even mounting the drawer front. Does that mean the drawer slides are not level?
Hey Drew, thanks for reaching out! You should be able to adjust the left/right leveling of the drawer front by using the drawer leveler lever within the orange clip. Slide it back to raise the drawer front on that side. If that doesn't work, please give your cabinet coach or our main line a call and we'll help you out.
Very informative video as always. Having watched the original video featuring the double sided tape technique, I definitely prefer this new method. It is straightforward and simple and requires only a 1`/2" line struck accurately for success. I found that some of the larger boxes were a bit racked and the "fingernail" reveal on both sides was difficult to achieve on those, but it did not seem to matter in the end. I decided to clamp the front to the box before drilling the pilot holes--not as much confidence as Brian exhibits in the demo! Cheers
The information was so helpful. I live in the Caribbean and the material for my cabinets need to withstand our climate. However, I am afraid a full MDF. I find that it should not be placed around water at all. But you've been some very good suggestions. Would you say the hybrid is the better choice for the Caribbean? Also, is the box made out of only plywood or is it MDF material?
25 years ago we bought stained all wood maple doors for our kitchen and they held up well but even in a mild climate there was some minor cracking and warping. Our cabinet coach Nathan had us consider hybrid and MDF painted doors and we ultimately chose MDF. The cabinet finish looks great and I think it was a good choice.
I have white solid wood doors. They look beautifull, no cracking. Even if i do get hairline cracks in the future, I don't mind that my cabinets look real. Why do people demand perfect, just seems plastic to me?
Question about the drawer glide installation. I've watched multiple base cabinet assembly videos and there is often a reference to a separate video that shows how to connect the glides/slides to the attached brackets. I can't seem to find the video. I've installed glides before so I imagine that I can figure it out but I would watch the video if I could find it. Cheers
Hi Jeff, sorry we didn't make that easier to find! Here's the video you're looking for: www.cabinetjoint.com/video-library/blum-tandem-installation-overlay-inset-features-new-pilot-holes/
"Heigt-th?" Lol! I thought only my family from Pennsyltucky said that. There is no "th" on the end of the word "height," dude... It ends in a "t" sound. I'd be a little embarrassed if a contractor/installer mispronounced this word that they use every day as part of their job/career!
Hey Ken, While not commonplace, Merriam-Webster does state that the word "heighth" is a dialectical variant of the word height. www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/heighth And for reference, we are based out of Pennsylvania. Hope you feel better soon!
Very helpful video. I can't imagine how frustrating it must be to overlook the hardware install on inset prior to assembly. I'm sure the cheap DIY jig option would work just fine but I opted to get a platemate. For the record, the replacement screws required are metric M4 .07 50MM. Cheers.
I see all your points but you forgot 1 major point about MDF and solid wood. MDF does not hold screws well at all qnd since doors have hinges on them i always prefer solid wood frame with mdf panel.
Thanks for commenting! You're right, this can be an issue with MDF in general but it's not one we experience with our cabinet doors. The weight of the door is taken by the cup hinges, not the screws. The hinge screws are simply retaining the cup hinge not taking any weight. In addition, the knobs and pulls are through holes so do not have this issue as the threads are not retaining the screws but the head. We do offer solid wood doors or the hybrid type you mention for people with this concern. In our opinion, the other benefits of MDF doors outweigh this small risk. Once properly installed they perform very well.
Thank you for the walk-through!! What kind of hinges do I need for the full overlay door? Do you have a video or advice for the installation? (Assuming it is the same but without a wooden block on the inside?)
You're welcome! The full overlay install is explained around 12:30 in the video. The supplied plate mounts to the edge of the face frame vs a bracket on the back of the frame (inset) and the plate used in overlay is quite large. In addition to the two screws holding it to the frame, it is advisable to place a block of wood behind the frame and attached to the cabinet side. The rear single hole is what mounts to the spacer. Note, this block is optional, not required.
The larger screws should be the ones used to hold the front of the glide to the face frame when installed in normal cabinets. The larger head prevents the screw from pulling through the hole in the glide. You need 2 of those screws per glide rail. There's a chance that manufacturer may not have provided enough of the larger head screws since the glide packs are not packaged with these pull outs in mind. In that case, you can source a similar flat head screw locally so that all the screws holding the glide rail to the panel won’t risk pulling through the hole. Let us know if that doesn't answer your question!
Hi David. You can use the botttom of the front frame opening. In other words, if the second drawer opening is 13” off the cabinet floor, that is the bottom of the rear bracket. Simply measure up on the cabinet back from the cabinet floor and strike a line or lay the face frame on the cabinet back and mark it that way. Let us know if this doesn't answer your question!
Helpful and informative as always Brian. I learned this lesson the hard way once a long time ago and it was due to the adjacent piece being a dishwasher similar to the situation you described. At the design stage I had calculated the clearance needed for a drawer pull but not for an appliance. It was a rental unit so not a huge deal and I've not made the same mistake since! Cheers
That's not how quartersawn is sawn at any mills I've known. They cut into axial quarters (as you show), but then alternate cutting planks between one flat side and the other--i.e., at 0 and 90 degrees, such that the growth rings cross through each plank almost perpindicular. It's 45 degrees off from what you show.
Our cabinet coach is recommending using this along with a cswco to joint together to make a square hood with a display shelf that is similar to the S-style hood. You wouldn’t happen to have a video on joining these two boxes together to make a hood of similar design would you?
Really timely video as I will be using a false drawer front on my order. For insets is it wise to paint the wood bocks black so that there is less chance for the block to be visible? Cheers Jeff
Thank you for explaining cabinetry. I am a junior interior designer, but working in custom millwork shop. Still learning and looks like your channel is great source for me to learn from. Thanks again.
Timely video as I have one of these on order. I'm a bit apprehensive that I'll be able to stand it up but my cabinet coach Nathan has assured me that I can. I will have end panels on both sides so I can trim the bottom corners if necessary. Thanks for another solid video.
Hey Megan, thanks for your comment! You're right, in our previous videos we do show that step, however, we've since found that if you pound the socket-post down, it locks in place. The goal is to ensure the socket doesn't spin when making leg adjustments. In an effort to simplify the process, we have omitted the screws, but if you'd like to screw them in too, that would be just fine!
Hi Brian, Thanks for another great video. What primer if any would you use with these Conestoga supplied kits (color and clear as used in this video) in the case where you were applying this to bare wood (like in the case of "some customers painted posts to match") OR, if you were applying this to an unpainted MDF drawer front. Thanks, Chris
Hi Chris, Any solvent-based aerosol primer would work. We would recommend testing on a scrap piece before full application to look for any adverse reaction or adhesion issues.
Thank you for discussing clearances, I hadn’t even considered that until you mentioned it. I plan on remodeling my wife’s pantry and I’m working with limited space so a lazy Susan would look out of place and a blind corner cabinet feels like my best bet. Thanks again! Great explanation
Great question - sorry for the confusion! The "equal height" refers to the fact that the lower 2 drawers are equal in height, as opposed to a standard 3 drawer base where all 3 heights are different (the lowest drawer being the tallest).
Hi Brian, Really enjoy and appreciate all of your videos. I'm adding the tip-out feature to an inset conestoga sink base. My drawer fronts are MDF and I may want a little more clearance (at the top inside edge). Is it ok to machine the MDF drawer-fronts a little and is there any special considerations for refinishing the MDF afterwards? Thanks!
Good question! Removing any of the finish, especially around the sink, will compromise the drawerfront and make it susceptible to water damage, voiding any warranties. We recommend ordering another drawerfront in the size needed.
@@CabinetJoint Thanks for the quick Reply! Makes good sense to order the correct size drawer front if needed. However, I am still curious about refinishing the MDF drawer front. Are there any special considerations for the MDF, or can it be handled the same as faceframe repair/touch up that you covered in another video? Thanks again for all of your great videos!
Great video! I ordered a BUCM 3" wider than my drawer microwave cutout specs (to account for 1.5" face frame x 2) and the opening was PERFECT. The default height of the opening for the 34.5" cabinet was already the right height, so no adjustment needed there. The microwave slid in easily with no gaps and there was enough room in the back left for the electrical box cut out. The back side of the electrical box is in the adjacent cabinet which is a trash pull out so it's not in the way of functionality (no drawer slides to contend with). Example: cutout specs - 15.6" h x 22.13"w cabinet ordered- BUCM 25 1/8"W x 34.5H x 24"D.
Good question! We recommend checking your appliance specs for ventilation requirements, or consulting with your appliance dealer for your specific microwave model.
Glad you're sharing this hack for handling the inset hinges. What happens if you have a drawer that you want to place on the bottom of the cabinet. Won't it hit the hinge?
A standard height bottom pull-out tray (POT) will miss the hinge (but sometimes hit the 90-degree door stops when mounted to the cabinet floor… a different issue). This is the case whether you use the POT install method shown in the video or cut the vertical corner pieces to clear the hinge bracket…or even if you mount the tray/box to the floor. The top of the tray/box should just miss the hinge regardless. If you upsize the height of the POT it WILL hit, in which case you need to order custom width (narrower) trays/boxes to clear the hinge and then mount it right to the cabinet floor (no cleats).
@@CabinetJoint - Thank you. Could you also do a video covering the assembly table that you guys use in your shop? Looks like its a 4'x8' sheet of MDF, on top of some 4"x4" legs with some support framing underneath about 24" off the ground? *edit* - I see you just posted a video today about this! Thank you.
@@krislindgren3997 You're welcome, Kris! We send this video in an email to customers after they order, but since you made this request we thought we would post it publicly. Thanks for asking!
Great video, quick question for you. What about the screws holding the hinges. I feel like mdf doesn’t really hold the screws as good as wood and in time the screws get loose
