You are correct, the grill is HT, but as someone mentioned in the comments already, this thing is an amalgamation of a bunch of H series Holden’s. So many armatures worked on it before we got it, I don’t even trust the build plate!
In theory yes, the cover is only meant to come off when you remove either the head or the sump. I was lazy and did it the extreamly dumb and risky way. Dont be like me, remove the sump or the head.
Thank you for the videos! Could you advice please? I did recently headgasket on 2013 c250 m271 1.8 l turbo and when doing headbolts, i did proper torque and just 2 90 degree turns, supposedly by manual, but headgaslet still leaking. Ive found some video of m271 assembly where they do 4 90 degree turns and it feels like I need to do more 90 degree turns, I ruled out other possibilities of head gaslet leaking. Please, thank you in advance!
Hey mate, I can’t say what’s correct for your engine. It’s been over 5 years since I’ve worked on a Mercedes and I only ever did this one repair. If you followed the steps and it’s still leaking, I would start looking at warped head or block surfaces or maybe your leak is from somewhere else. I would also recommend selling your car as they are terrible and buying a Corolla or something else more reliable and mechanic friendly.
I'm pretty sure I explain it in the videos but here it is again: The oil and water were mixing. I miss diagnosed it as a blown head gasket. Once i found a good condition head gasket i kept looking for an issue and found that the oil cooler was broken. This oil cooler allowed both fluids to mix. Once i replaced it and put in a new head gasket i noticed that the water was still getting into the oil but the oil was not getting into the water. After a bit of research, it seemed that the water pump O-rings were the likely cause of this issue. I removed the water pump and found that the O-rings were worn out and poorly fixed with some plastic and silicone. I then completed the repair you see in this video twice because i damaged the O-ring the first time. After the repair was successfully completed, the mixing of oil and water stopped. Any other questions?
@@FuryGarage thats what exactly happened to me. 1. I changed the head gasket. 2. Then i had to change the oil cooler(an obvious leak). But still i can see milshake on top of the oil cap (but no milkshake on dipstick) . No smoke. No engine heating issues. Just sweet smell. And reducing oil level and water level. So i think these O rings are the last thing to do.
Very informative video! Quick question: I own a C35 Laurel that’s AWD & I was planning on purchasing BC’s as well. Do you know if coilovers from a Stagea AWD(RS4) would fit into a Laurel without issues, since both share the same platform/suspension?
Thanks for the kind words, i don’t know if they would fit your car. My understanding is the c34 stagea shares its awd floor pan with the c33 laurel. I don’t know if it would fit a c35 chassis. Good luck and let me know how you go!
Excellent video. It's great to see a run through with all the pitfalls and issues. It's helped me decide whether I want to tackle this myself or hand it over to a garage. It was also really useful to know that there are other places where oil and coolant can potentially mix. It seems that these locations fail more often than the head gasket.
Thanks for the reply bro! Nah not at this stage I was just making sure I was shopping for the right one. Allways done cefiro laurels etc with r32 brackets new to the r33 c34 etc conversions was assuming the 33 bracket was what I would need just wanted to confirm with someone that had done one
Well, for clarifies sake: I removed the bracket out of a c34 manual stagea and welded it into my auto c34 as seen in the video. But the hand brake handle was already in my stagea when I bought it and I was told it was from a 33.
The head gasket is not the issue on these. The thermostat seals leak water into the front timing cover and down into the sump where it mixes and gives head gasket symptoms.
Very helpful video thanks. I'm trying to get a feel for how long it should take a pro who's familiar with Mercedes & who has a well equipped workshop, to strip a similar engine down to get access to the valve stems, replace the valve stem oil seals, then put everything back together. Doing my research before asking round for quotes later this week. I'm guessing an 8 hour day for disassembly, then another 8 hour day for reassembly, should be doable? Am I being reasonable?
Hi, thanks for the comment, as I am not a professional Mercedes mechanic with a well equipped workshop it took me maybe 4/5 days to do this job start to finish figuring it all out along the way. So presuming the technician has done the job before and there are no major unforeseen issues, I don't see why the removal of the head and the refitting will take longer than two 8 hour days. However, I have nothing to add for how long it would take to replace the valve stem seals. Additionally, all of my above estimations are based on my own very limited experience and may be completely wrong. I hope this helps.
Just checked with the Mercedes accredited garage - he said he'd really want to take the head off, wouldn't be happy trying to shortcut by leaving the head on and doing the put-rope-inside-the-cylinders trick to keep the valves up while refitting the seals like I'd hoped. Even so he was happy to agree 2 days should see it done. He did suggest though, maybe my engine's smoking on startup not because of valve seals, but because of worn turbo bearings, which would be a bit quicker to fix. I understand most of the M271's had superchargers but mine's one of the later ones they did put a turbo on instead. He said he's never seen a M271 that needed valve stem oil seals, guess that's a good sign. Anyway you're a star for making the vid. Nice 1 thanks :)
When my cclass gets to 80degrees or half gauge temp, and I give it a little rev to 2k rpm.. I hear water that sounds like its moving about under the dash.. is this the seals for that ? Sounds like an under filled cooling system water rush about..😂😂
Fury Garage, thnk you orthe video, i have a w203 mecerdes benz compressor that has a disgusting coolant mixed with oil in the system ,potentially meaning i have a blown head gasket, this sems like a lot of work but i will take my time, dealership or taking to mecerdes to have the gasket replaced will cost alot of money.
Seriously good video. Succinct with no editing ( I removed this earlier ) accurate step by step procedure. I’ve seen videos of others doing same job. Video was 30 minutes and not as instructive as your video. Your video is the one I’ll be guided by when doing my cv joints. Thank you.
There is another hole for tentioner btw. Not surprised thet you broke your tip :D shame you did not show the whole job of removing the top of the engine.
Hi ! I have a c180 2004 and i had a problem starting it ! Well i changed 2 cam gears, chain ( the old one was streched and had jumped , thats why it was not starting ( i guess ) the engine turns over but has no spark ( its like a no compression ) Do you think i have bent valves? I have to take the head of right? Im Flucked
Anyone know if it’s possible to adjust the rocker clearance, one of mine is tapping when it’s cold and thought it was a follower but looking at the video it seems to have a form of rocker assembly. Anyone have any info regarding the adjustment.
I think it would be good to re-edit this and remove the background music. Kind of hard to hear your explain everything with lyrics in the background. Good video and really appreciate the continued stag documentation.
Hello buddy. My w209 clk 200 just mixed oil in the coolant tank. So i guess its the damn faulty oil cooler since the car is low mileage and never overheated. I also noticed some oil leak right under the exhaust manifold area. Any clue whats under there assosiated with oil? Thank you!
Sorry mate not sure. Best to check with a coolant pressure tester. Otherwise it might be a good idea to get a professionals opinion before you start replacing things. Good luck!
80 series radius arms up front with a 3 link in the rear and twin arb air lockers. One of the most capable rigs on 33’s that has put comp trucks to shame!
