I love learning and doing DIY automobile work. I have learned a lot by watching RU-vid videos and this is my way of giving something back to the community. Hoping to get better at video recording, narration and editing to deliver quality content. I also work on electronics and fixes around the home.
A lot of DIY stuff needs knowledge and safety precautions taken before attempting to do it. Please take care and pay attention. Make sure you are aware of the risks involved in attempting to do it yourself, otherwise hire a professional. Thanks for watching!!
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This is awesome! Which mirror (stalk) mount did you order to directly mount the mirror onto the adapter for the VW GTI? I don't see one for the VW on the WolfBox site. Thanks!
Have you checked or considered changing the spark plugs 1st? I got the same code today and changed my SP after 177K miles on my honda accord. Cleared it using my scanner and haven’t gotten the code back. Will keep this in mind LT from scotty.
First things first if an HVAC company was out to rob you by charging you $6000 to fix this then he should’ve been reported to the Better Business Bureau and consumer affairs. For DYI homeowners who are handy with soldering and some troubleshooting skills and isn’t afraid to work with electricity being mindful to shut off the circuit breakers a five dollar part save this man from a bank robber a burglar a thief that was ready to rape him over a barrel. Just a few weeks ago, I had a similar issue however I have a newer, American standard conditioner and air handler with an American standard thermostat and at the beginning of the summer it started to give me intermittent problems on a 90° day that night. The system finally decided not to work anymore, I then called the HVAC installer that put this unit in six years ago and he couldn’t get to me for a week so I went up in the attic just to take a look at things. I took a lot of pictures and videos first off I noticed that the return hose that got connected to the air handler was half hanging off. There is a double sided tape that they peel off attached the flange and then they supposed to use self tapping screws to attach the flange, guess what they never did, so I had to put in a dozen self tapping screws, and I used aluminum tape around the entire flange, then he came, looked at the system for 20 minutes and told me it was the blower motor and he wanted $1000 dollars to replace it, I then called American standard because it was under warranty till 2028 and some parts till 2030, yes the parts were under warranty but they want $170 for the first half hour and $85 each additional half hour or $170 for each additional half hour they sent out to men personally who was a one-man job no need to send to men so I told them both that I would think about it, so I got a little daring and took out the thermostat and put in a Honeywell 7450 I think and set it in the settings for cooling and guess what the system worked. I then got a little bit more daring and reconnected the American standard thermostat and after doing some further research was able to access the mechanics access or technicians access page, which by the way are not in any of the two instructions that come with the thermostat or the air handler or the compressor, but I found the info online somehow someway mind you I never knew how to access it prior to make any changes because I didn’t know how to do it until I found the video. It was set to a non-variable whereas my ECM is a variable, then it was set to two compressors two stage, so I changed those two settings to variable speed, which is my ECM motor and single compressor to stage and guess what the American standard thermostat and the blower are working perfectly and have been for several weeks, be mindful of HVAC companies that want to take advantage of homeowners because the HVAC profession is corrupt and should be investigated because a lot of the systems can be repaired by homeowners who are tech an electrically inclined who in many ways no more than the professionals, I’m just going to tell you something about a car I once had that I took to a mechanic and he did some front work. He put in the front stabilizer bar in backwards, and my car was squeaking for a year until I figured it out and flipped it around and fixed it and these other professionals that are supposed to know more than we do, bullshit, bullshit, and bullshit anyway my hats off to you for a job well done also PS when applying solder or flux or side that has flux use 90% alcohol to clean off any excess flux, do not use 70% alcohol because it contains too much water and short circuit board there is 90% alcohol or 91% and abovethat is used that way it does not cause short circuits and be careful of the flux too because sometimes it could be conductive and it has to be cleaned with 90% alcohol. But that’s just the way I roll.
The stainless steel ####-ZZ bearings don't resist moisture as well as the original rubber-sided ones (-DDU aka -DU aka -2RS). Thanks for the detailed video!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was very helpful. I think I am going to have to do this exact repair. You have helped me to prepare for the job by sharing the bearing information. Thanks!
How have you found the camera picture copes with rain, and is the infrared picture good enough for parking at night time? Have you had any issues with the camera like unstable picture? I do really like the idea of a unit that replaces one of the number plate lights for my own Mk4 Golf, so your experiences would be very helpful to hear.
I have a s40 2005…would this be the same? Is this a common issue for these cars ? And also it would be great if you’d talk about the signs and symptoms to needing this doneplz
Aa said before, never tap on the outer race. If you put the bearing in a toaster oven on broil @350° for 10 minutes it will usually push on by hand. You will need heat resistant gloves. Nice work by the way.
@@SivaFolsom that was a concern of mine. Because I've had a 12-volt Port blow its fuse with inopportune timing in the past. Just makes me wonder about those kind of things now.
On Amazon: "Safe The self-locking power structure feature keeps the raised jack from falling, even when the power is off. When the power is reconnected, the jack will still stay at that height." In other words, as Mr. Siva Folsom said, "always have a backup".
Hey, thanks so much for this video. My base switch reads about 1000ohms in the closed position, whereas the other blue switch reads about zero. I don't have a beeping multi meter so I'm wondering if my readings mean my base blue switch is faulty. If so, do you have any recommendations on how to replace it?
If you are getting that high resistance in closed position, it's very likely the switch is bad. Your resistance should be 0. You can buy the OEM microswitch from Honda or buy aftermarket version from Amazon and modify to fit. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABIPV5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@SivaFolsom Thanks, just ordered one from digikey. I also cleaned up all the linkages like you said, but have a quick question. I took off the electric motor to clean it and was wondering if that gear on the motor is supposed to spin freely? Because it would not budge and I did not want to force it too much. Curious if you know.
Nice video👍. I just ordered the damper retro kit for my ZTech from RetroZone based on your installation instruction. My setup is similar , but I have a two wire, but can to 3 wire. My syncron motors just went out on a 22 year old system. I didn't like the idea of replacing it with an OEM motor that was always drawing power. Seemed very wasteful and inefficient .
Thank you so much for posting this. I've ordered parts and should knock this out in a couple of days thanks to you. I have one question: what size (4/6/8 inches) bearing puller are you using? Thank you in advance.
There’s no sbc system on these brakes? Or is the car battery disconnected to work on them? I was thinking of doing this myself with a friend but I was scared off by the sbc. And ended up just paying for it
I bought the switches from DigiKey in USA... but I did not need them! Like yours they were fine... but the mechanism had locked up from the old dead grease. WD40 freed the mechanism and 3in1 oil lubricated it. I removed the motor and was able to exercise the mechanism through all functions... the motor is there to pull the final door closure in. I put my window bracket opposite what you showed... but it seems to work OK, the windows don't go down all the way anyway. Finally, the door won't pop all the way open using the fob... it seems to hang... but with the handle it opens fine (the handle gives it that last tug to clear the latch) and it closes nicely.
I’m having the same issue. I tested the impeller motor and wheel motor by taking it apart and when providing power, it did not move. Might just need to replace it by getting the brand new motor compartment.
