Thanks for watching my video! If you like this video, take a look on my playlists, to see other interesting videos! www.youtube.com/@sirflooz/playlists
The input current depends on the output current. If you look on fig.6 of the datasheet, you see that at 8V input, the best efficiency is at about 0.6A at 5V output. For other input voltages see the other colored curves. For an output voltage of 12V, look on fig.8. I hope this will help you. Please understand that I cannot give further advice.
it would had been better to say "stated amounts of re-charges " instead as you don´t really know how fast the cells decline over time and actual cycles. cheaper cells typically wear our faster but I seen branded batteries lose a lot of capacity quite fast too. to get real numbers the cells would need to be in heavy service for a year or two to show it´s actual value
Thanks for watching my video! If you like this video, take a look on my playlists, to see other interesting videos! www.youtube.com/@sirflooz/playlists
Thanks so much for your thorough troubleshooting steps. I had the exact same symptoms and it turned out to be the same issue you found in part 2, a bad bulb socket. I will be donating right now!
Thank you so much! Just make sure to read my pinned comment, on the part 2 video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jix7GSIalQM.html) because I had to tweak the solution afterwards. But now it works like a charm.
Thank you for the explanation on the jets I was a little confused that the top of the jets sit in the air rather than fuel but makes sense now. Wellness bath hahaha I will think of that every time I clean jets now!
So, to know the real capacity of any powerbank, multiply the nominal capacity by a factor of 0.85. 20000 * 0.85 = 17000 mAh 10000 * 0.85 = 8500 mAh 5000 * 0.85 = 4250 mAh
Look for the green part below the brown starter relay behind the battery compartment. You can see a glimpse of the green part in one of my videos: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SeHjxoQeSJk.html
Dear Sir, I love some of your videos, but the reason you only have 21 views after 18 hours is because almost NO ONE has almost HALF AN HOUR to watch you yap for 27 minutes about a topic that WOULD be worth watching if i was under 5 mins. But few people have 27 mins. to find out what is, and isn't salvageable from a dead power supply. BREVITY is the key my friend! I know you might love to hear yourself yap, and you DO have a pleasant voice to listen to, but you're a yapper, and most people don't have half an hour to listen to you yap about something that would be very watchable and very interesting if it was less than 5 minutes. #yapper
Well, thanks for your comment. Please note that not every project can be a full success, even if it took a lot of time. The good news for you is, that not all videos from me have a long duration.
AFTERMATH: I had to shorten the screw, switch the two nuts to just 1 nut, secured with screw locking agent, because otherwise the connection is too long, and so the rubber cap rubs against the engine!!!
Just bought a couple of these and turning the screws does absolutely nothing. Output voltage is the same as input Would think maybe one was a dud, damaged in post, but both of them?
The input voltage must be about 2V higher than the output voltage, otherwise input and output are nearly the same. Also, the precision trimmers need to be turned 10 times for the full range. Also, the precision trimmers give no feedback, if the mechanical slider inside is at one end of the range.
@@sirflooz Thanks. My input voltage is actually 5 V and I want to step down to 4V. I actually turned it about 20 times to get the voltage to start dropping and managed to get it down to 4V, But now the current limit does nothing. One board just makes a crackling noise in my bench supply when I short the output. The other board just reads 3 amps output, even though my supply is set to 1 amp.
@@ArcanePath360 Now you know the precision trimmers! The CC circuit of the module is supplied by a 78L05 5V voltage regulator, so your input voltage must be 2V higher = about 7V to operate. Crackling sound could be caused by unwanted oscillations, as I had them in my video. Have fun.
@@sirflooz So it is like an Arduino, where you need to supply at least 7V to the barrel jack to get the regulated 5V? It seems like the more I learn, the less I know. What's weird is the LED shows it is limiting current when I turn it all the way down, but a motor still shows the same output and runs the same... Wait... OMG I just tried it with my bench supply set to 7V and you are right! For the first time I got the current reducing function to work! Thanks a bunch man!
My repaired indicator still works fine. Just make sure, that the rear contact is not longer than the original! Two nuts were too much and it rubbed against the engine, so i switched to just one nut, secured by screw locking fluid.
Should be noted that the 5,000mah is the cell at 3.7, not output voltage. So the Wh reading should be used. If you correct for the voltage though it’s 3,416mah which is 68% efficiency, more than half but it’s alright I guess
Your temperature drift test doesn't make much sense, because not only are you cooling to an extreme that won't normally be seen (that low) but also because you were cooling the wrong chip, as the LM358 doesn't pass the current, isn't going to heat up nearly as much as the XL4015, or the diode which also has temperature increase and drift based on current. Even so, I can appreciate cooling it to whatever ambient temp it will actually be used in, in order to most accurately adjust it before use.
Thanks for dropping a comment! But please have a detailed look on the schematic of the module (can be found on the net). There you see, that the XL4015 has only a voltage regulator, while the OPAMP is used to sense the current and to generate a corresponding control voltage for the XL4015 to add the current limiting function. Therefore my temperature drift test makes sense. The cold temperature is good to show the trend of the error. Of course it is no scientific experiment. Let's have fun in electronics!
In part 2 (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jix7GSIalQM.html) you see, that I have fixed it. But be aware, that the gap between the tip of the connection of the indicator and the engine is very small. So, an improvised connection cannot be any higher than the original setup. Otherwise the rubber cap rubs against the engine and gets damaged.
Hola ! Crees que se pueden modificar los parametros de los BMS de las baterias de litio ( li-ion , LFP...etc ) ? Todos permiten cargar y descargar demasiado las baterias y resulta que las degrada rapidamente , por ejemplo las li-ion es mejor que corte la carga/descarga a 4-3,5V , las lifepo4 que las cargue hasta 3,5V y descargue hasta 3V , o hacer que sea regulable De serie incluso superan los parametros maximos de las baterias! Seria muu util explicar esso para mucha gente . Gracias !!!
That 100~105 hz ripple could be due to ripple from your power supply. Do you live where your mains frequency is 50 Hz? If so, that's more than likely mains ripple from the bridge rectifier inside your power supply you used for testing the board. It may not have been the buck regulator entirely. Great video btw as well.
I soak them in brake-cleaner or gasoline for 24h or more. Even better is to clean them in an ultrasonic bath - but due to a lack of funds (and donations) I don't have one.
@@sirflooz Thanks. Looks like producing these videos are stressing you out, not worth it. There are plenty of videos on Vespa maintenance in youtube with the same information that anyone can find, so no need to put your health at risk.
Tut mir leid das zu hören! Mein mahnendes Video hast du offenbar leider zu spät gesehen. Kopf hoch! Ich hoffe du holst dir ein besseres Bike und sicherst es mit einem oder besser zwei guten Schlössern sowie einem Tracker (meine Empfehlungen siehe Videobeschreibung).
@@sirflooz just put it back to gether , no oil .do it tomorrow ,cant seem to get my panels to fit back properly ,allways a gap quatre of an inch at the back, any idea. thanks for your reply?
Very nice Video. Thank you for the tutorial. I actually tried something similar myself and the step to convert a photo to an STL file was more difficult and did not have nice accuracy. I just checked and you could import .svg files in Fusion 360 (free version) and you could extrude the logo very easy too.
Thanks for your detailed comment! Great that it helped! I use Fusion 360 in free version too. Nice hint! But I really like the open source fact of Blender. So, no restrictions, like in Fusion 360 semi free. ;)
Welcome to the wonderful hobby of electronics. Regarding the capacitor, the value depends on the current you draw. 680uF is a good starting point. A lower value might work, a higher value might be necessary - test it. But make sure to always use low ESR capacitors here (the market provides normal and low-ESR electrolytics, Tantal is usually always lowESR, Ceramic capacitors depends on type). I hope this helps. The web provides also good notes about low ESR on SMPS (switch mode power supply). Stay curious.
No, you normally do not need to add that capacitor, and more often, adding one is needed for higher output, say 2A or above, IF your load can't tolerate the resultant ripple. I would just ignore the example in the video because there are other options for less expensive and smaller, lighter weight, modules to regulate a mere 90mA.
Thanks for the nice feedback! I made the tool myself. It is just a piece of steel band, a 90° bend at the end and there a gap with the size of the screw that I have made with a file. You can probably do it yourself.
I have a PX125 2015 and sometimes the electric starts fails completely - dead .dodo. - don't laugh but if I toot my horn twice, it then turns over immediately and starts no problem. Often it struggles to kick start cold, some choke, could be the same unknown issue so I will try to tooting twice to see if it kick starts better. Also best to turn fuel on for few minutes to fill carb.
These models have a special starter protection device, which could cause your no starter issue. The device is located under the front cover and is usually in a pink housing. To check, if this is the cause it would be possible to bypass this device. But to do this you should ask an experienced car electrician after showing him/her the correct schematic sheet if you are not an expert yourself. Good luck!
I know of this - I have a simplified starter circuit diagram showing just the 9 components. In fact previously my still young 2015 PX125 had very hard bright green oxidation hidden behind the main fuse or relay (next to the battery) - perhaps due to my winter riding - so I will strip it out to check this soon at my annual spring clean service.. But the concept of merely pressing the horn to re-establish the electric-start circuit is still comical to me..@@sirflooz
Den Wagenheber erstmal so anzusetzen ist extrem schwer in der Relalität. Dennoch interessant zu sehen, wo es am ehesten brechen würde. Es gibt jedoch noch genügend weitere Schwachstellen bei Faltschlössern, auch das verdrehen, was teilweise funktionieren kann, ähnlich wie bei Kabel, Panzerkabel- sowie Kettenschlössern unter 10 mm.
Great idea - Your brass bolt that you cut may still have a problem - the normal connection I feel presses against the rear of the engine AND A BIG ONGOING PROB:LEM - maybe touches the electric start motor, causing vibration problems and damaging that silly terminal you drilled out - check the rear of rubber cap at indicator, to see abrasion marks - does not happen with the left side panel. I had the same problems you had, I never touched the terminal at front horn cover, or the indicator switch on handlebar but I did sand all the parts you did, replaced indicator units, tightened the bulb holder (shit design), could see white oxidation everywhere, but light would work and then STOPPED like yours. Both sides but mostly right side. The signal tracer gave odd results, that also changed when side panel was off the bike or on again - weird. Maybe you do not need this but I sorted my apparent earth connection problems, ONLY by running a new earth cable from rear of lamp unit to chassis, with NO problems since. Replacing the bolt [2:57] fixing the indicator unit (and contacting the light bulb earth strap inside) with a new stainless steel bolt, (brass would be better I guess) and also S/S washer and nut [1:45] on the inside of side panel. Then installed a cable (maybe 60 or 80 cm cannot remember) from that nut inside [1:45] [19:23] , using a circular spade terminal under the nut, and running a cable to the .....a) battery earth for left side panel and .....b) to an earth nut on the engine for right side panel - tucking the hanging cable aside carefully when side panels are put back on. I also used circular/spade connectors at these 2 bike earth connection points, to easy take apart during servicing with side panels off, but take care to not rip off the cable.
Wow, thanks for sharing your experience! In deed, there is not much space to the engine. But I shortened the bolt as much as possible and finally used just one nut, secured with thread locker. This solution works for me fine since the repair.
Would this be able to tell you if the usb c cable has a 56k ohm resistor in it (like the nintendo switch pro controller cable) or if it has normal 10k ohm resistor?
You went the long way for a simple fix . It was Most likely flooded from being on its side . if you turned engine over without fuel on and no choke it would have started
Well, I really went the long way. But I have tried the procedure you describe, but it did not help. See parts 2 to see the details: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R9ARoNzmOzc.html.
This light is my first experience with the Anduril 2 UI. I got it using the same link you provided. Awesome flashlight, although I got the 6500k and it's super bright. I do like the color index of yours, and with such a reasonable price with battery, I may go for the other two colors, keep my favorite, and gift the others. Thank you for the upload.
This also my first Anduril 2 UI flashlight, and I am really amazed by it. I use it really often and i really like, that I can scale the brightness according to the light situation. I really appreciate your comment. Thank you for that!
@@sirflooz, did you adjust the thermal or voltage ranges to get additional lumens and runtime on the turbo before it steps down? I saw a couple videos, but haven't done it yet. The last one I saw, was the most informative by @smotheredchrome, and looked reasonably uncomplicated. Haven't tried it though.
@@Gman1024 No, the FL is not modded by be. Thermal circuit is to protect the LEDs from thermal exodus. The lumens of that light is more than sufficient for me. The only option I see here would be to replace the LEDs with a batch of the same type of LEDs which have more lm/W (see datasheet). But I think you would just improve the efficiency of the FL with it, bc the thermal barrier is still the same.
Thank you for showing this, very interesting product of the thousands and thousands of products. I found one that was six or seven dollars on ali by doing a search that says it's bluetooth, so maybe it works with an app. I'll think about it a bit more before taking the chance. Happy Holidays!
