Thanks for stopping by. My name is Jason and I live... in Maine!
Have you ever just thought "It would be cool to try and make this or that"? Well, that's what this channel is all about.
My goal is to bring you along with me as I try new things for the first time, especially things involving technology, electronics, model building, woodworking, metal working, 3d printing and automobiles.
Each video will feature something I’ve thought about in the past and always wanted to attempt. Maybe it’s something you’ve always wondered about too.
Will we be successful or not? We’ll never know until we take that leap.
So let’s give it a try!
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I do have one of those. Even it needed to be dismantled and cleaned occasionally. Guess it’s just a hazard of being a vacuum cleaner 😁 Thank you for the comment!
And that's why I love my Vorwerk Kobold (Don't know if they sell it in the US; But don't think so) - Vorwerk will sell you every spare part, even for discontinued 30yr old units, if you wanna do it yourself and they offer good serviceable vacuum cleaners. The floor brush on my Kobold can be replaced without a screwdriver. Just pop open the proctective lip and change the part. Don't know why Miele, which is also a premium brand such as Vorwerk if you want to put it that way, makes it so difficult. Cheers from Germany.
I have not heard of the Vorwek Kobold, but it sounds like a great machine! I love it when companies continue to supply parts well past the retirement of a product - I wish more would do that. Danke für den Kommentar! ( I hope that's correct )
The power head on my Sebo has a neat trick where I can pop out the whole beater bar by popping a door off. It certainly beats taking the whole head apart. I've read thread rippers are great for cleaning bars, but never got the chance to try it.
That's a nice feature, for sure! A seam ripper would be a perfect tool. I do have one....somewhere....but my X-Acto blade is always on my desk 😉 Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
I’ve had paint pens and a need to remember where screws go for a long time, how have I never thought to combine them before? Also, love the chill and (crucially) non-intrusive background music👍
Ha! Ya, it was a real revelation when I first thought of marking those screw holes! Music is a must for me, but so is clarity - the balance is indeed the trick. Thank you for the comment!
Thank you so much for this video series , I ordered a new top thinking it would be easy to replace and i can 100% say there is no way i wouldve been able to do it without your in depth video😂 the high quality and in depth instructions were a total life saver for me and my 200 bucks
That's too bad! Did it run before you fixed the blade retention? If so, something probably just got disconnected. If not, it still might be fun to investigate further! Thank you for the comment.
Maine, did you try some acetone on your overspray? Loved the detail in your video, will be replacing my top soon. Thanks for putting this together to help the rest of us through the process.
I did not try acetone, but it is an interesting thought. Acetone is pretty aggressive stuff so it would have to be used quite carefully. I very much appreciate the comment, and I’m glad you are getting some inspiration from the video. Good luck with the install and let me know how it goes!
I thought its difficult for me to understand this tutorial cause Im german. But this is the best tutorial I could find on YT. Your Jetski videos really helping me out and the explanation is always top tier. Thank you for your work and please keep going 👌🏼
Thank you very much for your kind words, or perhaps I should say vielen dank! I'm very happy you found the video helpful and easy to understand and follow. Great work doing the job yourself, and thank you for watching!
Thank you for the awesome video! The only challenge I ran into was that when I loosened off the filter element bolt, I could not pull the filter element out by hand? I had to gently pry the cap up slightly and then I was able to wiggle it out. Also my nut was half way down the stem. Dealer told me to use a bit of blue locktite and hand thread the nut up to the top of the stop. I torqued it to your specs approx. 6.7 FT Lbs., so with any luck it will come our easier next Fall? Appreciate your comments on the above? I checked after for leaks, ran it for 20 sec. All good. Ready for Spring :)
Thank you very much - I'm really glad the video was helpful. My thoughts are that the nut on that bolt, when done up tight, will force the cap up and out when removing the bolt. It seems to me if that nut has worked its way down the thread, there will be more play between the bolt and the cap so the cap won't be forced out. I have not experienced that, but I can see how it could happen. The Loctite solution sounds like a good one - just be sparing with it so it doesn't contaminate the oil. Nice job on doing your own winterization, and thank you for watching!
@@mainejason Thanks that makes perfect sense. I only used a drop or two of blue locktite the top the nut and wiped off the excess. With any luck next Fall winterization will be easier :)
Jason! This video is HUGE! Thank you for taking your time to make this list of parts/tools!! I am about to embark on the mission of replacing the rooftop on a 97' Z3! Ordered rooftop from the same website , should be arriving today or tomorrow. I live in a condo so hopefully I can get all the materials I need gathered and smash the project in 1 day, I don't really want to leave the car roofless over night. Wish me luck!
I’m glad the video is helping you out. Good luck with the install. Take your time and don’t force anything and you’ll do great! Let me know how it turns out, and thank you for the comment!
It will certainly depend on one's comfort level with using tools and working with mechanical as well as fabric materials. It will also depend on if all the appropriate tools are available. I'd say an actual installer could do it in a half day. A competent diy'er could perhaps do it in a day, but I'd budget 2. I'd be curious to know how much time others took as well.
I'd say I'm a competent DIY guy, and I will have all appropriate tools on hand before starting. I also have 3 kids in elementary school, so I'll budget 3 months 😂😂😂
I had this ONCE, on a peavey CS power amplifier.. Pretty much exactly the same scenario as yours... The problem did arise again, about 2 years later... So i gave it another clean.. and again, fixed itself... On the 2nd "repair", i cleaned around each component and then tested again... I found it to be dirt around the potentiometers..... Well... thats what i believe, because as soon as i cleaned around them and removed the dust and grime.. thats when the problem was resolved.... And since the legs of the potentiometers are pretty closely placed to eachother, and dust can be partially conductive over time etc... I hoenstly believe it to be that...
That is some great insight, and I actually believe you are right!! That's the only thing that kinda makes sense. Thank you for commenting and sharing your experience!
Thanks so much for this video. I didn't even know that this was an option when I was first looking at the sensor not working. You probably just saved me a couple hundred dollars instead of the measly $15 It takes to get a new pack. Going to buy these asap.
Just finished my installation and I honestly couldn't have done it without your videos your am absolute legend! the people that are saying the new version of the sierra auto tops soft top isn't installable DIY are wrong but it's definitely more of a pain because instead of plastic retainers that you can neatly tuck in you just get flaps of fabric which I just tucked in behind the brackets that the rubber seals go onto, the new top also didn't come with a replacement for the crimp clips that hold the tension cable so I had to reuse the old ones. to add to the challenge the aftermarket top that was already on the car had been installed by someone who didn't know what they were doing and broke the sealing frame, sticking the broken pieces back in with lots of horrible sticky adhesive and not wanting to source a new one I made a neoprene gasket to seal it off, overall a challenging and fun experience but I'm glad it's over
Thanks so much for telling us about your experience! It's too bad the new tops have changed... I wonder why they did that? Your extra tips and tricks will most certainly be invaluable to anyone doing this project! Great job persevering and getting the job done! It is a big project, for sure, but the reward for accomplishment is great indeed! Thank you for your great comment!
At 9:30 in the video, can you please explain the installation of the second strip of butyl ribbon tape? Are the two strips touching each other, or forming a channel for the water to go between?
You know, that is a very good question. As I recall, the two strips of tape are not touching and are parallel. I believe my thinking was that those side/end sections are a bit taller, so I'd just add some more to those areas. I honestly do not remember if I read that somewhere, or if it was just my reasoning. I CAN tell you that I have had absolutely zero leaks - so take that for what it's worth. I hope this answers your question.
That would be 9Nm for the cover bolts. For reference, here is where it is documented in the video: ru-vid.comUgkxtLQrBsBh0UOh7Zi_MBY21Cv5Yx02vmEd?si=gCc7GGAE6JgOcxkS Thanks for watching
Hi Jason, please help me, I am batteling over 6 months with the new soft roof (aftermarket) installation, all followed your steps, however the final end to fold and put the strip because the top is well away from the closing clamps and unable to close, I have already adjusted the maximum limit to the front locking mechanism but NO LUCK? God bless you>
Just to be sure I'm understanding where you are at: You are just at the point where you would glue and attach the flap to the very front of the top and install the metal retaining bow (at about 19:00 into the video)? There is no doubt that the top is very, VERY tight when first installed. If you look here: ru-vid.comUgkxnxwf3OT5UqP5H_3KqohEleFOq5yjWNLW?si=8NRZ8M5vEwF5LASI you can see what the gap looked like initially for me. I had to sit on the top to get it to lock in. Even better if you have someone to help. Another thing to check: Make sure the seams in the top are lining up and laying on top of the crossmember ribs. If they are not centered, the top may be askew and need adjusting. Also - check for an excessive amount of indentation where the rear tension straps connect. If the top is being severely pulled out of shape when trying to put it up, they may be too tight, mounted in the wrong place, or need some sort of adjustment. If all that looks good, you could try wetting the top so it will stretch a bit. It is canvas and will stretch under tension and a bit of moisture could help that along. I wouldn't saturate it, but just shower it with a sprayer like it was out in a soft rain. Note that after adjusting the closing camps, the top may not lock correctly once you do get it stretched enough to finally close. You'll most likely need to get them set back to there original position in order to get a water tight seal. I hope this helps and best of luck!
Thank you for the inspiration. I think I should give mine a deep clean. I love the Miele design. They are powerful and silent. But the faffing around with the motor filters is annoying
Glad you found the video helpful. There's always room for improvement, but it is certainly one of the best vacuum systems I've used ( and I've used many! ) Thanks for watching!
I found this video last week and after watching it twice , I decided to tackle this job on my '98 Z3. I already owned most of the tools but I did order the pneumatic stapler(wow, that thing is fun!) I bought my top, started the removal process on Friday afternoon, and am finished on Sunday morning! This video was extremely helpful. My old top was slightly different in some ways, as it was not the original. Also, the last top job on my car seems to have lost a few of the bow bolts and some smaller screws at the header. I found some that would work. Overall, A+++ for Maine Jason's video! Thanks, Jeff
Hey Jeff, thanks so much for taking the time to comment on your experience. I'm really happy the video was helpful and that you were able to complete your project - well done!
baking soda is the worst thing for your vacuum cleaner. definitely in large amounts like that. its also just smart to use genuine bags if you have an expensive machine such as miele, sebo, riccarr, kirby and so on. I have 2 Kirby G series machines and I always run genuine bags
For sure! Speaking of Kirby - I sold those door to door for a very brief time in the early 90's. It was a horrible job, but I got some great stories out of it! Thank you for your comment!
I used to work somewhere that required me to check multiple industrial trash bins for things that shouldn’t be there and in the process would find so many vacuum cleaners where the only issues were blown fuses and filters that needed cleaning, it was crazy the amount we got working again. We never had to buy any to use ourselves😂
I've followed this exactly. But the downloader decides to spend several hours downloading full game (yes, I did select 'Just Updated my Updater'). In the downloader window it does actually say it's downloaded the Updater.exe but it's nowhere to be found as the existing Updater.exe I can see is from 2022. What an absolute mess!
As I recall, right around the time the idea of the updater was introduced, the process was kind of in flux and still being worked out. I think quite a bit has changed in the year and a half since this video came out, and, in some circumstances, this procedure may have broken. Of course, I am not a dev, just an end user like yourself, so I am only guessing. Best bet, if you need help, is to head over to the BMS Forum. A lot of knowledgeable folks over there, and maybe even a dev or two from time to time. Good luck, and thanks for the comment!
I kept saying "oh no" with each part reveal seeing the white dust in every nook & cranny of that thing. I also use a miele Uniq canister, but only with the real bags. As soon as you said you used generic bags I immediately wanted to turn off the video because how can you use a brilliant but buy generic bags 😭😭 but it seems youve learned never to do that. Ive brought my canister to a local vacuum guy to open up the housing and inspect when i bought it (used) and to replace the cord. I think i want to replace the cord again (the one i bought was non-polarized and seemingly too thin) and i might just do it myself, inspired by your calm approach, despite seemingly knowing next to nothing about miele repair. They're apparently very particular and i didnt wanna break mine. Overall loved this video and your delivery ❤️
Thank you very much for your candid comments! Learning is part of life, and it can be fun! I may not have known about Miele repair when I started, but we all know something now! I'd encourage everyone to try their hand at repair. Most of the time, it just requires the courage to remove that first screw! ( Also, I advise taking lots of pictures so you remember where things go!) Best of luck if you try to repair your machine. I'm glad you didn't click away, and I thank you for watching!
I do still have this tool. The primary reason I got it was to install a new top on a convertable. I don't use it frequently, but whenever I need a stapler, it is the tool I reach for. Thanks for the comment
I don't know the vintage of the donor headstock, but I believe the spindle size was the same for all 10k's. I wish I had been making videos when I restored mine - it was a really fun project, and I highly recommend it!
I would recommend using genuine miele bags. They cost so much because of how much r&d they put into their design. One of best filtering bags on the market.
Well, now that you put it THAT way... 😉 I consider it more exposing a flaw in a product - that being a generic bag. Either way, it was fun! Thank you for your comment!
So it was the bag that was the issue not the vacuum itsel? But shouldn't two filters do the job of protecting the motor and and other components, especially with the vacuum that expensive? @@mainejason
From what I could tell, the second ( HEPA ) filter came post motor, at the exhaust. I think the bag itself is supposed to provide a good amount of pre-filtering. So, a cheap bag........ Thank you for the comment
Sweet result, but as you said it's a puzzle. I wouldn't have thought that just cleaning the dirt would sort it unless maybe there was something conductive you hoovered away. Also, as you said maybe a cold solder joint you knocked back into contact with the nozzle? Loved the screw-removal jazz.
I agree with you on all counts. For now, I'm going with the old, "If it ain't broke.....(anymore)" 😆 I thought jazz seemed to fit the mood Thank you for your comment!
I imagine there can be arguments made for either location - pre or post motor. The OEM Miele bags are substantially thicker than the generics and I assume, designed for a specific amount of filtration that perhaps allows for the filtration placement on this unit. Of course, I have not studied vacuum cleaner filtration design, so I may very well be wrong 😉 Thank you for the comment!
