Thank you for checking out my RU-vid channel!! I will be posting videos with CNC programming examples, vehicle and tractor projects and other cool stuff :-)
so before I buy this part, I have a question that I hope someone can answer. I have a 2003 Econoline 150, and the switch would blow the same on all settings except high. on high it would blow really hard, but all of the other settings were The lowest blower speed. so in other words I only had two speeds, low on the first three dots, and then high. yesterday it stopped blowing at all on any of the settings, but the compressor works fine and if I set it on normal AC and drive on the highway air conditioning pushes through the vents so I know the problem is either the switch behind the dash itself, or this resistor. any idea which it might be?
Thank you for your question! I'm not sure if you've seen this video from this Ford mechanic...very well explained!! Mayb it will help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RQFK38RlNdM.htmlsi=lhRS_cS-GCwa5d9L
Hi there…….So yes, you can place a G96 surface speed while doing G71. Your G96 will be placed before your G71 cycle. Here’s the tricky part……there are many variables that could be giving you chatter on your finish. Tool nose radius being used. Length of part being turned Finish pass in program might need adjustment So, it could be many variables. You mentioned S1800….is this your max rpm in your program? I’ve worked with A2 also. It can be tricky trying to get a nice finish. If you can let me know as to how long your part being turned…..maybe I could give you more ideas.
Thank you for the vid. Both sides of connector was melted on mine. $26 kit at Advance Auto had the plug and the pigtail, now all fan speeds are working.
Hi there.....if you are manually programming a chamfer, you do need to know what the radius value of the insert is.....then if you are going to use a different angle, it would be helpful to have the HAAS chart to help you with your X and Z starting and ending points. In the manual, there is a section called "Tool nose compensation". The charts should be there. I found this......page 65 has the beginning of charts. www.haascnc.com/content/dam/haascnc/en/service/manual/operator/english---lathe-operator's-manual---2005.pdf
Very nice set up for sure.....my Dad has a 3520 with the 59" front blower. He added an actuator to deflector for in cab adjustment which is a cheap nice addition. How is the UHMW holding up?
Oh wow.....3520 is nice!!! Yeah, I need to get one of those chute adjustment actuators! So far the UHMW is holding up really well !! Thanks for watching my video!
Hi There!....Do you mean sending the machine home? I didn't show that in this video....I only mentioned in the video that you would continue your writing to send your X and Z values home. I ran out of chalkboard in the video (Ha!!). So, after your done machining your G71 canned cycle(in this video it was N12 Q20....which is line 12 to line 20)....I usually program my X axis to head home , and then my Z axis home.
@@TimsCNC-Tractors-and-more no i mean in the G71 cycle how do you know how much the tool is going to retract like after the depth of cut like how much the tool is going to move in x and z positive direction
@@AmanDeep-ki3xf Gotcha....so, I'm going to make sure of my answer when I go back to work on tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the X axis retract is usually the amount of your depth of cut per pass, and the Z axis usually goes back to your original Z starting plane before the G71 was called up. I will reply back again in a day to confirm my answer.
@@AmanDeep-ki3xf…..I wrote a mock program to verify and yes….the D value you have in the G71 line is the retract value in X and the Z retracted to the original Z starting plane just before you call up G71.
Looking at a used 2010 2320 myself, how has yours done?? One I am looking at has 357 hrs on it. I hope to get it for 15--16k Has loader and 62D deck with it. Your video here will help me if I buy it.
That's really low hours on a 2010!! I did mention in your other comment that I've seen other videos of people having issues with the transmission, but I never had those issues. It was a great machine for me and had plenty of power. I did a lot of work around my home using the loader, mowing, snow blowing, and it worked well. I had a driveline axle seal that leaked, and a steering seal also, but I had that taken care of by the dealer. I did sell mine a few years ago, which was a tough decision. The tractor did ride pretty well for the most part. My lawn is about 3 acres and the land is pretty bumpy in spots. The seat wasn't to bad, but I deal with back problems so everyone might react differently.
@@TimsCNC-Tractors-and-more Owner says he took good care of it. Used around the house. Was serviced as needed. I'm going to check it out best I can and see if He'll come down some on it. I'm thinking 16K at most. Thanks for your reply!
So, I've dealt with machining plastic material in the past and once the collet opened to advance the material for the next piece, I've had the material lunge out of the collet a couple of times causing the facing tool to machine off a lot of material. So, here's a couple idea's that worked for me. If you are using a 3 jaw chuck, make sure your clamping jaws are not opening really far.....try to keep them as minimal as possible. If you are using collet chuck system,(such as a 5C collet) try keeping the collet pressure at a lower clamping force to help reduce the snapping effect of the collet when it's opening. Make sure your collet is free of burrs that might be allowing it to stick. Another idea I've done in the past is to install a piece of scrap round stock in one of the tooling holders to act as a dead stop. I would program it to come down to spindle center and then to stop at about .050"-.100" in front of your Z work zero offset.......from there you would do your G105 bar push and if for some reason the material wanted to bounce out, it would hit the dead stop of the tooling block and not go any further, and then the collet would close. From there you would continue with your program. But, doing it this way will require some playing around with, since when a new bar advances, you need to make sure the new bar push doesn't smack the tooling holder dead stop. This can be done by writing a block delete section in your program and have it bypass the new bar push by simply turning on and off block delete. It would require you to keep check on the bar feed page to see how much stock remains before it picks up a new bar and for you to activate your block delete section. (I hope that didn't sound to confusing). I hope these ideas help you.
Could you please do some more videos on canned cycles for lathe, I have learned so much from your videos. Awesome video by the way you really explain things so I can understand. Thanks for the videos!
@@jamesford9917….. I really like the 3039r…..I really wanted to get a cab tractor with heat and air conditioning and sadly, Deere doesn’t make a 2 series with both heat and air. So, I took the plunge and got this. The 2025R was a very good machine…..I had no problems with it and it worked very well for my needs.
Thanks for the great video it did help a lot for me. Quick question, is there a way to program the data inside the program that I run so it does update the machine settings for the bar lenght, initial push and etc? I'm thinking a way that I can ask solidcam to add this to our post processor. Inside solidcam I should be able to fill out the necessary things. Thank you in advance
Thank you for the kinds words and for watching my video!! Sadly, I’ve never use a cam system and I’m not familiar how those do the bar setup. I know you should be able to go to the bar feed page in current commands and view the length of material left. Im not sure if that’s the answer you are looking for.
@@TimsCNC-Tractors-and-more currently I've done it as you described it through the command page, But I've seen somewhere in the manual that all that information could be controlled by a set of codes. I'll look into it, if I find out something I'll post it here :)
The only other thing is using the I, J, K for an incremental override. You still use a G105, but you insert I ,J, K also. For instance, G105 I2.0 J1.500 k1.0 I is the bar push J is part length K is min. Clamp Not sure if this helps at all, but keep me posted!
Thanks for watching my video! Yeah, I've had turf tires on other tractors I've owned and for me, they've actually work pretty well in the snow. If the driveway is covered in ice, then it does spin a little bit. All I'm using on this tractor is some ballast weight in the box and having the tractor in 4 wheel drive.
Thank you for the kind words! Usually, anytime you are doing an outside diameter turning path, you would use a G42 ( which means the cutter comp path stays to the right side of the programmed path)and your tool tip direction is usually 3. If you were doing a Inner boring cycle that had multiple dimensions on the inner diameter, that's usually when you would use a G41( which means the cutter stays to the left side of the programmed path)...You would also need to adjust your tool tip direction for this. I personally use G42 all the time on O.D. turing , because I get lazy trying to figure out all the math needed(haha!!)....so I let the machine figure it out.
Using g71 canned cycle type two with cutter comp g40 where do I compensate apparently the machine doesn’t like the comp because it can’t switch tool nose directions
Hey there….thanks for the question. I’m currently at work and just wanted to send you a quick video link from HAAS talking about this. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0_GiMspK0pc.htmlsi=NF4Mm2pgEGnsa4bI
@@TimsCNC-Tractors-and-moreThank you for your answer (forgive me for my English), my name is Alexey. I'm currently learning on my own to become a Haas lathe!! And I will be glad to any advice from the master!
Yup, I had a gravel driveway for over a year before getting it paved…..I sure didn’t like hearing the rocks getting sucked up into blower! I tried to keep the skid shoes so the blower was about 1” above the rock driveway.
Yeah, I don't remember where I had the throttle at, but I know I didn't have it all the way open. Plus, I need to adjust the chute deflector to be higher up. Thanks for watching !!
Thank you so much for the video. Just picked up a 2024 3039R with a blower and a broom and yet to get to play here in Indiana. After seeing your machine run I’m very hopeful for our plow season. So far I’m in love with the tractor. Can’t believe how much they pack into the cab of such a small thing
Hi Adam…..congratulations on your purchase!! Mine is a 2023 model year that I just got in early November of 2023. This was our first real significant snow storm this season so far and the tractor worked very well going through this heavy wet snow. You are correct, they pack in a lot of features in the cab for sure! I’m definitely spoiled having a heated cab!!
Everything on s/b looks same as on my 1023. The only difference mine does not have any wiring connection on the carrier. What is that for? Other than the linear motor I added for the chute up and down no wiring on mine.
I know on my older Deere 2320, it didn't have the electrical connection for the front blower either. I'm not sure when they started doing this particular electrical connection, but it allows you to go into reverse and keep the PTO engaged.
@@TimsCNC-Tractors-and-moreOK gotta be something like my daughter’s lawn mowing tractor has where they have to lift up on the PTO handle to back up or the tractor stalls. Seems crazy to do that while looking behind one’s self and having to hold on to PTO and still have other hand on steering wheel. Thank you for info on wire connection.
I had to make a fixture to mount the jaws on. So, in the first Op, I drilled & tapped 3 holes on the bottom along with a locating pin hole, then once the parts where finally separated in the first op, they got removed and then they were flipped and mounted onto the custom fixture and tighten and proceeded to do a final pass. We didn't have material at the time to do this in one step....but going forward if they decide that the part is doing what the company hopes, they will buy thicker stock material and I can do the full profile in Op 1 and then flip in Op 2 and machine to proper thickness.
With the addition of the uhmw material 4” wide do you see less wear on your skid shoes and could you possible raise your skid shoes and let the uhmw material support the blower?
Yes, I did bring up the skid shoes so just the UHMW material was contacting my driveway. Even though I no longer have this tractor....I did the exact same thing to my new tractor. The material is very durable. If you have a stone driveway, I'm not sure about the longevity of the material.
Oh man.....that's a bummer. There is a Ford mechanic RU-vid channel who did a great job going in depth on this issue. I will post his video link. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RQFK38RlNdM.html
How did the UHMV end up wearing on this did you have any concerns ? I think I’m going to try this on my 47 blower but curious how fast it will wear down
I didn't get a whole lot of time using this material on my 2025R since I installed it during mid-winter. From what I can see, it's very durable. I just got a new cab tractor and installed it on the snowblower unit. Since the material comes to you as a blank piece, you will have to drill the holes and possibly other modifications to make it work. Good luck to you if you decide to get it! :-)
I originally ordered 4” wide by 3/4” thick. They didn’t have anymore 4” wide material so they sent me 5” wide material by 3/4” thick. I ordered a 60” piece for my 3039r. I did use my table saw to cut the width and length to what I wanted. My 2025r I had, I used 2 pieces of the poly, and I’m not sure if you watched my video on that.
Oh man....sorry to hear that. There's a Ford mechanic who produced a video similar to mine and he went more in depth on other factors that could be the culprit .....I believe he even mentioned the fan switch could be bad....I'm noy positive on that. I hope you get it figured out 🙂
