I opened up my car and found out there was one hose at bottom on intercooler on left side. My hand won’t reach that hose from bottom nore side and even removing the bumper didn’t worked Now the bumper ain’t aligned and hood won’t close properly 💀 I think I will have to get it towed
If just the head of bolt is stripped out, you can drill or grind and break off head of bolt. Then slide off tensioner from bolt stud. Stud should spin out by hand once tensioner is out. Using an extractor tool might be easier if still possible. If bolt is seized inside the block, an extractor is needed to get bolt out. Hope this is helpful.
Hey buddy I have few questions 1) I have leak from the same spot and I wanna ask it possible to fill that crack JB Weld? It’s available on amazon it was recommended by mechanic to patch crack on radiators 2) I went to dealership and I was told water pump is needed to be replaced too. However he wasn’t very clear about it.. He didn’t mentioned he saw it leaking instead he said there were signs of coolant flung around… white marks probably coolant. However I never noticed any leak in my 2 month of ownership (im second owner) and I would be surprised if both leaks happened the same moment. I just scrapped the car from bottom while leaving plaza. And I assume it caused the stress on radiator or just time itself cracked it. So the main question is… the second tank the little one beside radiator coolant tank is it for water pump?? I opened it and the coolant was on max level. 3) I noticed you topped up your second tank… do I have to do the same?? My AC works fine and the level of second tank is perfect
Hello, JB weld would be possible but I would not recommend it. The radiator if already cracked/leaking has the chance to leak again in a different spot. All plastic on radiator has gone through the same miles of driving. If the radiator doesn’t get replaced there is that chance vehicle will get a random coolant leak and possible leave you stranded. With radiator leaking up front the coolant will get splashed onto the front of the engine where the water pump is located. The engine fan and driving could cause the coolant to go everywhere in engine bay. Its very possible radiator is the only leak. If there is a lot of the white coolant build up, on the bottom of the pump, then the pump can also be leaking. I would recommend doing the radiator to start and then see if the leak remains. The small tank coolant is used for the charge air cooler and the coolant/refrigerant heat exchanger (A/C). When replacing the radiator, you have to remove the main radiator with the aux radiator together and then replace radiator separately once both are outside. This is only reason I had to top off both tanks because I removed both radiators. If main radiator or engine water pump is leaking, only the bigger expansion tank has to get topped off. Thank you for the comment.
M550i is the same as this model to remove metal cross connection/plate. Then should be; unlock connector and detach, Loosen screws 2x, Release coolant hose from fan cowl, Feed out fan cowl upwards and remove.
Its hard to release once tensioner is out. With belt already off you can release tensioner/remove Allen, then remove tensioner. I had extra pin to use so I leave pin in and save pin from the new tensioner.
@@thatonebmwguy9925 Thanks! I ended up bolting the tensioner back in to torque it enough to get the wrench back! Awesome help. couldn't have done without your vid!
Yes, the other radiator is for the Coolant-cooled air conditioning condenser and for the Charge air cooler. If that cooling system has low or no coolant, a/c will not work correctly and possible a check engine light might also come on.
Yes, this is how you can start the coolant bleeding procedure for the electric coolant pumps installed. This also activates the electric thermostat and opens a shut-off valve to the heater core to allow the coolant to circulate through the heater core and remove any air pockets. The low temperature AUX coolant pump (electric) will activate along with the high temperature turbo charger coolant pump (electric). This helps get most of the air from both systems, but starting the car is still needed to finish bleeding the high temperature cooling system. The main engine coolant pump is a mechanical belt driven pump. Start bleeding procedure with diagnostic mode (hit start/stop button 3 times fast without pressing brake pedal), turn both side temperature dials to max heat, use blower on lowest air setting and last hold the accelerator down for 10 seconds Hope this is helpful.
The way the bmw just enters in the screen it’s crazy that bmw has such amazing technology and I’m just asking does the car have a muffler? I’m asking because the first rev sounded amazing and so did the sport plus.
Yes, the way the car comes into the screen is very cool. The car has two mufflers but only one is open at all times. The other side/muffler opens when the car is in Sport mode or if the engine is revved high enough. The muffler flap also opens up during quick acceleration. Having both mufflers open, frees up the exhaust flow, for better performance. Check out this video, the exhaust flap on this car operates the same way. ru-vid.comJpn5wRKOLkk Thank you for the question!
Idk if ur trying to hate but it’s not stupid tech it’s an automatic cleaner for the back-up camera and no it’s not gonna break bmw is to smart for that
Wrong. I don't have or like BMW, but it's a great idea. On both my Volkswagon Atlas and Jaguar Fpace, I need to get out and clean the camera in the winterall the time. This fixes that. Great idea indeed!
@user-px5bh8zt7s You are posting comments no one asked for. BMW has options and features you never knew you needed. German cars are some of the most reliable out there. Things wear out and break over time, no part will last forever. It will be years before this part goes out, will give you an update when it does. Don’t stay waiting, might be a while.
The coolant hose from upper radiator to the coolant outlet pipe on engine block, was replaced about 2 months before the radiator started leaking. It was first the coolant outlet pipe on block was leaking. Then upper radiator hose leaking. Then high temperature (big) coolant expansion tank leaking. And last repair was the radiator leaking. Most coolant components are made of the same plastic type material and by 70-100k miles its normal for coolant parts to begin to leak and need replacement. All these cars on the road need to get fixed, thank you for your service as a Technician. Any BMW, any questions, please comment. On any video. Have 15+ years, BMW and ASE master.
@@trishonya so is the radiator the called the secondary radiator? What is the secondary radiator that I need to replace for my A/C to properly work? If someone can explain.
The air flaps are automatically controlled. With a cold engine the air flaps will stay closed to help the engine heat up faster. While driving high speeds air flaps also remain closed to help with the aerodynamics of the car. Many things will affect the air flap control like; Coolant temperature, air conditioning condenser temperature, transmission oil temperature, catalytic converter temperature, charge air temperature, brake temperature and driving speed. Easiest way, with a cold engine, turning air temperature to coldest setting and a/c on, should make them open. Turning air all the way off should make them close. Thank you for the comment.
When car is orange, it is used with the active cruise control option to show a vehicle ahead is detected. Orange car is also used with the 4 lines underneath (pyramid shape) for the distance control selection. When car is red, or flashing red, it is a forward collision warning. A beeping sound will also chime, for driver to hear, depending on distance from car ahead. Thank you for the comment.
You do not need to evacuate a/c with a 2018 530i xDrive. Procedure should be very similar if not exact same as this video. Front differential or front axles should not get in the way. I checked repair instructions (All Data) for the 2018 530i xDrive model, and it does not show work for a/c either before removal or after to recharge. Hope this is helpful.
540i B58 should not need to evacuate A/C. If the condenser/heat exchanger is coolant cooled, not air cooled (like the older vehicles) evacuating a/c is not required. The heat exchanger should allow for fan and radiator to get removed with enough clearance. The G30 with B48 and B58, A/C has the coolant cooled heat exchangers. G30 M550i model has, older style, air cooled condenser in the front of radiator. This one does need to have A/C evacuated. Hope this is helpful.
The exhaust flap opens automatically during heavy acceleration in "Hybrid/Comfort" drive modes. The exhaust flap stays open at all times when "Sport" drive mode is selected. If the engine is cold and in sport mode, the exhaust flap will not open until engine is warmed up. Exhaust flap actuator is installed on only one of the two exhaust tips. Hope this is helpful.
hello dear friend at the moment I am driving a f11 bmw 530d with the n57d30 engine with 258ps I had a problem with the car like in a cold start I hear from the driver side bubbling like there are air in the coolant system and the car get hot when I accelerate over 120kmh I have changed the waterpump thermostat und bleed the coolant over 5 times but the car keep on losing coolant water and I can’t determine where the leaking at also I’ve changed the agr coolant I am stuck with the radiator I am not sure if it is broke and also don’t know what to do next, I brought the car to a workshop and I felt like he want to scam me because he mentions that the head is broken und he will repair it and it would take like a day the thing is I know that he’s a scammer and I had giving him a chance but he still remain the same didn’t change
Hello. When bleeding coolant system try to switch between max cold for a few minutes and max heat for a few minutes, two or three times. Lifting the front of the car with a jack can also help get any air out of coolant system. The engine I believe has an engine oil/coolant heat exchanger and also a transmission oil/coolant heat exchanger. You can check both engine oil and transmission oil for contamination. If something is found cooler is internally leaking. Last, is possible the heater core inside the cabin is leaking and the coolant is dripping onto the underside of car through the A/C water drain. There might be coolant stains where vehicle is parked. Hope this is helpful. If you find cause of the coolant loss please update comment. Thank you!
This vehicle is capable of charging faster/quicker with a High-powered DC Fast charging station. The charging station used in the video; Max output is 62kW. In the cluster, charging speed is about 60kW, or about 1/3 the charging gauge.
Important question 🙋♂️ Right at 6:06 minutes where your right hand is holding the radiator from, that hole has no hose connected on my 2019 530i am I missing it and if so can you please tell me what that hose is? I’ve seen the diagram and shows nothing there on the BMW Site which is confusing because at 6:42 in the video you connect a hose on that exact hole, 3rd one on the right side of the radiator under the big hose hole please any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
For this vehicle its a hose that connects the main coolant radiator to a seperate/side external radiator on the right front lower side. The hose is part number 17 12 8 602 633. In the BMW diagram its not part of the main coolant system diagram, there is a seperate one with only 2 coolant hoses and a bracket. Hope this is helpful.
yes, it is hard to tell in video. I checked with an extra set of starter bolts and confirmed the front and back bolts are the same standard type thread. Will try to get better view/angle in videos when removing bolts. Thank you for the comment.
Engine did not have the crank seal guard, got lucky the belt did not damage or enter through front main seal. I ordered the crank seal guard and will install next time work in that area is needed. Thank you for the comment!
www.bmwpartsnow.com had it in stock at the time i needed, all other places radiator was not available/sold out. www.ecstuning.com is also a great site for BMW parts.
Cuz of this plastic couplings you need to replace whole cooler. That's the problem with bmws. I have similar problem, but with coolant reservoar. Thought it was o-ring in the tube, but apparently the plastic part shrunk causing it to leak. Cheap solution would be just to fix it with silicone glue.
DO NOT make the same mistake I did and buy a cheap aftermarket radiator for this repair. I will now have to do this job over again with OEM parts as the cheap stuff found online will leak 😅
Changing out the radiator on my 2018 m550i tmrw…only question is about the ac condenser that appears to be attached to the radiator when you removed it as one? Is there an air evacuation step I need to take? And a recharge maybe? Or am I overthinking?
Yes, for your m550i model evacuating and recharging the a/c is needed when replacing the coolant radiator. On the 530i model the a/c does not need to get evacuated, the condenser on this one is coolant cooled and uses a smaller heat exchanger that does not block the radiator from coming out. I pulled out the high temperature and low temperature coolant radiators at the same time. I searched for 2018 m550i and for that one it does show the a/c condenser is a normal air-cooled condenser, in the front, and system does have to get evacuated when replacing the coolant radiator. Evacuating the a/c is a listed previous step before removing radiator. Then shows, “Feed the radiator with the air conditioning condenser out through the top and remove it with the help from a second person." Hope this is helpful.
@@thatonebmwguy9925very helpful, thank you for your time, acknowledgment and information. I performed this on my own following practically all of your steps and the added step for my condenser and had no issues at all! Quoted at $1100 for labor without parts and this only took me maybe 2 hours.
Same spot on my 540 all these mechanics try scamming on told me upper radiator hose and needs to. Take out manifold to replace I was like fuck that shit brought to another mecanic they told me radiator and was told they need to take the whole front end off thanks for this video now I’m going to do everything my self can’t with these people and it’s because I’m 18 and drive this car they all think they can take my money
Awesome video, my 540i is leaking from the exact same corner at 72k miles. Gotta love plastic radiator end caps :) must be a wide spread issue with these models
Oh man thanks for this wonderful video. Mine is leaking from the exact sopt. The car has only 35k miles on it . This is stupid. this should be a recall or class action lawsuit. Just one question. You didn't have to add coolent. How the air bleeding works on this.!?
!!Do not open cooling system if vehicle was just driven or if engine is hot. Wait until engine is cold before opening cooling system caps!! Start bleeding procedure with diagnostic mode (hit start/stop button 3 times fast without pressing brake pedal), turn both side temperature dials to max heat, use blower on lowest air setting and last hold the accelerator down for 10 seconds. The smaller expansion tank (low temp cooling) should start running the electic coolant pump and begin to bleed, showing bubbles or flow in the small expansion tank. I recommend doing ths first and then topping off if any more coolant is needed. Tighten small expansion tank cap. For the big expansion tank (high temp cooling), the vehicles engine has to get started to run the mechanical water pump driven from the engine belt. With the car cold, you can start the engine and let it run for a couple minutes at idle with the expansion tank cap off (You can place cap on the tank, but not twisted on, to help avoid coolant splashing out). After a couple minutes, or if engine temperature level gets to the middle in cluster, shut engine off and and add more coolant to expansion tank if needed. Tighten big expansion tank cap. !While the engine is on, keep an eye on temperature gauge in the cluster to make sure the vehicle does not overheat. If temperature guage starts to rise, past the middle, shut the engine off and recheck coolant level! Hope this is helpful.
@@thatonebmwguy9925 Its done. It worked thank you very much. Eventho mine is 540i, but it was the same thing. God know how long this new one will last. The 6 cylinder was a little harder of a job i had to use some one else help holding the radiator for me.
