This channel is all about Making, Fixing , Shop tips and various how-to videos filmed and edited by Mike Freda. Main focus is on Tube amps, Coleman lanterns, Toyota Tacoma & Landcruisers, Biking, Flyball Racing, Flyball Equipment and other a few random videos to mix things up a bit! Just a guy who likes to keep busy making things and going on adventures!
BCIT and UFV graduate majoring in Electrical and Design Drafting.
I have an older version of the HT5 and just did this repair. The board does not have dedicated Test Points for balance and bias The schematic doesn’t show any either. I see the pots with adjustable screws for adjustment. What do I need to measure across for the balance operation, and bias? Thanks
I'm not familiar with that particular model but you basically want to measure the Plate, Cathode and the grid voltages on each half of the 12BH7. On the first triode, pin 1 is the plate and pin 3 is the cathode. On the second half, pin 6 is the plate and pin 8 is the cathode. The cathodes are joined together with one bias resistor so their voltages should be the same. You can measure the plate voltages to see if they are similar. The Test Points are actually measuring the grids, Pins 2 & 7. You adjust the balance pot until the Grid voltages and plate voltages are the close to each other. I doubt you can get them exactly the same since each triode are typically not 100% identical. I hope that helps? Cheers
Big thanks.Had my 2006 since 2017,fob never worked.Told by dealer and others $250 to replace. With your instructions and a new battery,fob works fine. Cost 2$ for the battery.😃
great build! do you find sonic differences/characteristics to SE el84? vs SET or anything else? I'm looking for crystal-clear sound but with tube magic.
Thanks for commenting. This amp can be wired SEP (Single End Pentode) or SET (Single End Triode) by strapiing the grid. Triode mode has less power but also sound good. Not much of a difference but it can be noticeable. When running in triode, I find the bass not as deep but the vocals/mid range a bit more pronounced. You really have to do quality listening and A/B them to really hear a difference. To be honest, EL84 are good tubes, they are affordable and widely available but if you are looking for that "tube" magic you may want to look at my 6DN7 SET amp build. It's a low cost tube that sounds amazing! If you are looking to take a big leap into SET, another great sounding tube is the 2A3. These tubes do cost a bit more and the build process is a bit more complex but they are magical when paired with a higher efficacy speakers. I will be doing a build video using a 2A3 tube. Cheers
Thanks for commenting. I can make this for people but they are labour intensive and a bit fragile to ship. That's why I created the build series of this start gate and timing system. Please have a look at all the other related video's. Cheers
Outstanding build. Your tone was great and the steps were clear, concise and easy to follow. Very clean throughout. I even enjoyed how you built the chassis using TIG welding. Sounds great.
Thanks for commenting, I really appreciate it! It was a fun build. I liked it so much I'm making a High Gain and a JTM version using this output section. Cheers.
@@MikeFreda Don't laugh, but I got into fiddling with amps. I would find these old tube amps on eBay that didn't work. Through the grace of God and help from a guy I befriended, (Jon Besent, who was an amp builder that started "Austone"), I never blew myself up. I bought a tube PA amp at the swap meet for $5.00, and converted into a amp head. It had 2 EL-84s and 1 12AX7. Believe it or not it rocked.
We all have to start somewhere. I started building tube amps in my late 20's when I came across a Fender Amp book that had a Schematic of a Champ in it. I said to myself, "is that all it is?" I bought the book and took it to work. An old guy I worked with was into ham radios. He laughed when I showed him the book and told him I wanted to make this Champ amp. He then proceeded to educate me a bit. The one major thing he told me was to always keep on hand in my pocket when testing. I still do that today. Cheers
@@MikeFreda Very cool to have a mentor. The electronic guys are not around anymore, or at least in my neck of the woods. I live in the desert area of California, and when I was in high school we had electronics class. I wish I took it, but being a 16 year old kid with a 68 Dodge Super Bee, I dove into auto shop 100%, and we cruised the main drag in Palm Springs. It was a great time to be alive. Wish I would have picked up a guitar way back then too.
Thanks. With the new bushing and 1” spacer lift all I has to adjust was the fan shroud. I had to lower it a bit and clearance the bottom the bottom of the shroud a bit. That was it. If you go more the 1”, you will have to do a few other things to make it work. Cheers.
Hey Mike, it's Mike...lol. I didn't have carb cleaner left, but I did have mass air flow cleaner. I removed the pump and rod, filled the chamber halfway and dumped it out a couple times because it just looked horrible. Once it was cleaned, I let the MAF cleaner do it's work for a couple hours. Then I put it together and tried to pump it, but still wouldn't pump. So I sprayed some more MAF cleaner into it and waited another hour. Was about to order the check valve tool, but I thought I give it another go. At first, same thing and then I tried pumping with a little more force and Bam!!! The check valve broke free and I was able to pump it up! Thanks so much for this video! Saved me from buying a tool.
Thanks for commenting. Glad it worked out. You can also poke the check ball with a piece of wire to get it to move. The CV still may a small air leak if there is some left over residue. Keep a look out for that. If that is the case you may try the Carb Cleaner trick again but it's been my experience that the CV will need to be removed for a more aggressive approach to cleaning it. Cheers.
@@MikeFreda Thank for the tip. I did do a test fire of my lantern and didn't hear any hissing sounds before and after start up. But will keep my ears open...
Thanks for commenting. I don't disagree due to the rectifier tube and moderate B+ voltage these amps use but it doesn't hurt things. The main reason for the video is to show people the unique dual function switch and as I mentioned, I like using the switch for switching leads. I don't like the POP sounds of the input jacks disengaging and engaging. Cheers
My check valve was stuck and clogged up,therefore wouldn’t allow air to pump into the tank. I took out the shaft and insert rod,then sprayed a little carb cleaner down inside the check valve where the ball sets. I let it set for about an hour or so. Then took some mig welding wire,size 0.30 and pushed down on the ball. A little pressure was in the tank and some carb cleaner came out. After I seen the carb cleaner come out I knew it was free from debris and functioning like it should. Just make sure you don’t have a lot of pressure in the tank or you will get a face full of carb cleaner and Coleman fuel. But it works in a pinch.
Thanks for commenting. I'm glad you sorted it out. Good reminder! Yes, you should always release the pressure and/or have to cap off when working on the CV. Cheers.
Thanks for commenting and for the feedback. It's always a fine line to what to focus on. If I make the video too long, people will not watch. I will keep it in mind though. My next tube amp video will be more about the circuit/wiring and less about the chassis. I figured that people who are watching my build videos know how to solder and install components, but I could be wrong. I guess I could do a seperate video just on that. Cheers.
Great video on the TPMS fix. I would use a plain alligator clip or other holder, the connected red wire makes it misleading. Just curious to know if the ECU threw any codes after the hack.
Thanks for the feedback. My code reader and it shows nothing wrong. Most basic store bought code readers only typically show something when the engine light is on. I'm not sure if a high end / factory code reader would register anything. The method I show is just "tricking" the ECU with a "high pin" value. Cheers
Hi Mike , thanks for showing how to make the match . Definitely will be trying to make one . I know your Into fixing lanterns , where do you get your parts from being in Canada .
Thanks for commenting. I’m glad you like the video. As for Coleman parts, I typically purchase from OCP and get it shipped to a mail box in Sumas Washington. I work near there and just drive across the border to pick it up. I also goto gatherings and obtain parts. What I’ve also done is find/buy beater lanterns and drive for parts. I have enough common parts to make things work. I hope that helps? Cheers.
Hi Mike, nice job on the tapping jig! I'd like to make one for my lathe. I know this is an old video which explains why the plan link in the description is broken. Do you have an updated download link you can share? Thanks!
Thanks for commenting. The transformer I'm using in this preamp is actually used in a Fender Champ amp and its overkill for this circuit. This amp does not draw a lot of current, around 8-10ma. The tubes are bias very lightly to help minimize gain and distortion. The PT you quoted is rated to give 300-0-300 at 50ma of current draw. If you have small amount of current draw you will typically see the B+ voltage being a bit higher. Will it work in the circuit? Yes, it will. The 0D3 will cap the operating voltage at 150VDC but you may have to adjust the large dropping resistors that are placed right in front of the 0D3. Simple ohms law equation will get you in the ballpark. You "may" have to go slightly larger. Its hard to tell until you build and test it. I hope that helps?
@@MikeFredayes, that does help! I’ll do some more research in to a better suited transformer, but I’m finding some champ transformers that should work either way. I’ve built a few paint by numbers, high gain guitar amplifiers… but this will be my first hifi build! This looks like a great build! Thank you… I will post a video when I finish!
I followed all the steps and everything worked until I got to the part where you press the lock and unlock of the key fob. when I did that step, nothing happened.
Thanks for commenting. I typically order from Mouser and Antique Electronic Supply. For filter caps, there is a large selection of them. The main criteria is Voltage, heat range and life span so you have to pick wisely. Cheers.
@@MikeFreda I didn't see a chassis layout file, like dimensions(like you did for the 12AU7 linestage). Did you make one? totally cool, if not, i'm about to buy metal and just thought i'd ask. Thank you
No, I did not do a chassis layout. You could probably screen shot the chassis footage on the first video and draw it out by hand. I suspect most people would just do a large top plate so my layout probably wouldn’t work. If you want something, I could do a quick sketch for you. Cheers.
OMG !!!. it doesn't only have the Military vibe. but also looks so neat and beautiful .i'm green with envy. i wish i had your knowledge, tools, and manual dexterity to make equipment like these. there's so much Pride & Joy one can take in building his own . wow. very impressive. KUDOS
I can make some more if people like. Please send me a PM. You can do that by signing into RU-vid and going to my About section. Email address there. Thanks.