This channel was created to show off some of the stuff we do here at Midwest Super Cub. We also play on doing some tips and tricks videos down the road so subscribe. We might even announce a sale or coupon code too so stay tuned.
I have personally had the threads pull out of the block when running K series in Wheel Horse when plowing with a moldboard plow or tilling with a rear mounted 36" tiller. That was with 1/2" in the block. Studs should be longer to hold better in the block, less chance of pulling and ruining the block.
No numbers stamped on the caseing just took the pully off to look . The guy said he switched the bad 10 hp for a 12 hp. It's an old cub 102 and am now restoring it and am at the engine. The label is missing that was on the fan shroud, go figure. I would like to get the right parts when ordering.
I ended up buying 2 gears due to one getting ruined. Please do not heat this gear cherry red. i did so and the gear was loose on the crankshaft.This is probably a better gear than the stock one but do yourself a favor and install as follows. Heat geat in an oven to 400 degrees and press on with a hydralic press , thats it. Look at my channel Italianman4you and find kohler command gear replacement video.
Ok mine hase a big chip in the bottom of the cilinder and a crack about 1/2 " I can sea and feel .the rod broke now I'm out a block and crank if I can not fix it and I live in Washington wair parts for these are hard to find.the chip is allso about 1/2 inch into the cilinder.block is marked D-4
Thanks, nice to know. Do you know anywhere that identifies or explains the meaning for the 4 digit spec number that follows the Kohler model number on the CH or ECH series engine?
Brute, my arse..lmfao... More proof we can only build junk today vs Yesterdays Cast Iron true brutes designed/built by our greatest generation these engines are simply trash! They showed us how to overbuild all our products yrs ago but we refuse to do it today just to make an extra buck instead! We need to look back and overbuild all our stuff "again" because everything "you" buy today is actually meant to fail on you decades sooner than it should. Stop building this crap today & you'll stop owning a big pile of crap tomorrow people and anyone bragging over being involved in building any of todays engines, mowers, tools, cars etc.. should be told off quite frankly because they know its all junk but they simply do not care what "you" own. They'll blame it on corp if cornered but no we all should blame it on the entire workforce since all of you worked on building this crap from start to finish so its all on "YOU", but' hell maybe you all just really suck at building anything right today idk? Like big pyramids secret we all forgot it, so don't know how to build stuff right maybe? Just more trash here, this is why I still use my 1976 Wheel Horse with Kohler K series to simply mow/till/move snow and I refuse to buy todays aluminum garbage. I'll just rebuild its engine/trans if it ever needs it, so far it hasn't once and its been mowing over 2 acres since 1977, I bought it used btw. How many mowers have you bought since then and how much do you mow with yours? Just say'n.. All mower engines/trans today are junk!
You camera man is horrible at following what you hands that are moving to fast are doing. You are trying to talk so fast you brain can't keep up to your lips making you stutter rather than provide adequate information. I been a Mechanic for 35 years and the only USEFUL information you gave was that the relief valve sticks due to corrosion or gum. I would STILL like to know how the dang vale works.. Guess I'll tear mine apart and find out. Too lazy to make a vid out of it ~ Sorry about your luck.
Gee, Racing oil is very expensive though. Some are saying to use oil for diesel engines as they have the high zinc and phosphorus content. Oil is a very hard subject
