If you're going to do a test like this, don't do 0.05 layer height or anti-aliasing, as both of these settings absolutely annihilate detail and don't really show off what the resin can do. Also don't compare 8k to ABS-like, that's an apples to oranges test. 8k is a detail resin, ABS-like is a drafting resin, these have completely different properties, where ABS-like sacrifices detail fidelity for strength (supposedly anyway, personally I've never found them to be much better strength wise which is why I've stopped bothering with ABS-like resins). A better test would be 0.02 layer height and no anti-aliasing, comparing an 8k resin against a standard resin. In theory the 8k resin should have a finer particle size and thus be able to achieve crisper edges and finer surface texture.
I've got the Heygears Ultracraft A3D, with the blade to remove parts from the build plate, proprietary resin is nothing new for commercial printers, Formlabs, Carbon, Envisiontec, etc. Shoutout to Vincent if you still work for HeyGears. The bad side, while getting set up there was one part that the tech couldn't get to fit into the machine, so he had to 3D print a temporary replacement on site until a replacement came in, but it was like one of the first 10 printers of that model produced so growing pains?
Dumb question for the day , has anyone tried to use a USB WiFi Adapter on these , I have the pro version. I dont feel up to buying a more updated printer just to get the wifi . That and or add a card to the board and take a risk of breaking something . Just a thought ..
A lot of people want a printer with a "fire and forget " mode. I am in this category. I am averse to tinkering with printers. I use the technology to print stuff, and that's precisely why I dumped my Anycubics (FDMs and LSAs) for Bambu Lab and HeyGears (on order). The extra money is well spent, in my opinion, to ensure a fantastic outcome almost every time. The tinkerers do not understand the purpose of this printer. It does not address the reasons why they got into 3D printing in the first place, but this push-button system will open the space to an entire sector of people who are afraid to jump in because of the technical requirements of the "traditional" printers. And that will unleash a new wave of creativity. I also vehemently disagree with opening up the slicer to a more advanced mode and third-party resin (unless certified by HeyGears). Keep the system pristine and under control, just like Bambu Lab and Apple. Those brands are trendy because they democratize their sectors by pushing and controlling great products. Great video. I subscribed 😀
I know im late to the game :D But is it possible to do a sound comparison between the A1 and the P1S ? Atm i got a ender 3 v2 neo, and its just too damn slow so looking to buy a new printer. Im leaning a bit towards the P1S because of the coreXY and the enclosure. But i have found a couple of reddit posts that states the A1 is quieter. Just FYI atm i am only printing PLA.
Brilliant. I'm more like your dad, in age and interest (Napoleon's), but I suspect my painting style is more like you - speedpaint and getting figures on the table. I started painting Napoleonics over 40 years ago, and was always looking for a faster way to get them on the table. I see your dad's style is very traditional British - with lining for straps and such. While I admire the dedication, for myself that was always an obstacle to more models on the table. Contrast/Speedpaint was a game changer for me. On the other hand, while I've been into 3d printing for a few years, applying that to my wargame figures is fairly new. I'm still trying to find STLs for purchase. I've bought a collection ofr STLs from Piano Wargames, and they are excellent. Are you able to say who produced the STL for that limber and horse train you show? It looks brilliant, and limbers are always in short supply for Napoleonic gamers because the number of models makes them expensive, and for me, in Canada, postage these days makes them difficult to justify, as the post cost can exceed the cost of the miniatures. 3D printing has been a saviour for me in that regard, especially since my printers are not exclusively used for miniatures, so their own cost is mitigated.
Get your bag, I guess. But this company seems pathetic. I don't even care about the quality of the printer, the proprietary resin along with what they've done with influencer "marketing" are both major red flags. Not sponsored, okay bud. You just happen to use the same exact talking points as people that at least disclosed that they were sponsored.
Their resin is meant to cure at a different wavelength than your typical hobbyist resins. And such their machines output the appropriate wavelength. This is one factor of why their prints look good. If the whole market switched wavelengths then having an open system might be more practical or reasonable.
I really would love to have one but the Proprietary resin is just a hard pass for their price. I use a lot of Sunlu ABS like resin where 2kg is about 40 bucks where HeyGears is 65 for 1kg .I cant see how they justify that price. I mean come on. Even their "Affordable" resin is 32 for 1kg. I just cant imagine they are doing something so different when the are getting their resin made that makes it just SO much better.
Their resin cures/specified at a different wavelength. Based on personal industry experience, proprietary/closed materials can and need to charge a premium because they have to pay the engineers to tune and optimize the materials. Also the r&d and formulation work. You pay less for hobby resins because I'm the intent is that you (the user) are responsible for the tuning.
I agree. For the big price of the printer and their resin it's just not worth it. It is a very good printer but so is the uniformation gktwo. I've never had any problems. I'll never go for a printer where I'm locked into their products. I need to see more testing with other resin brands.
People keep comparing this machine to bamboo but what makes bamboo successful IMO is because you're allowed to use other filaments besides theirs, a lot of people at first were turned off by the company because they thought it was 100% closed which a lot of the system is closed but the consumables art and that's a big thing with 3D printing people don't mind spending money on an expensive machine as long as they can use the consumables they want and save a good chunk of money in the process, this machine is not that it's 100% completely closed even though you can use some resins with the pap 10 settings it's 99% closed, they could have allowed you to use another slicer and other resins if they wanted to while also only giving customer service to the people who were in the closed system through their slicer
How does the proprietary resin bottles work? Once slotted in, do you have to use it up or can you swap them out? Also how do you use non HG resins? Do you wash out the HG bottle and refill it or just pour resin in the vat?
You can take it out when ever you want, so there is this prod at the bottom that pushes a valve in the bottle that makes the resin leak out. But once you pull it out the valve will close, I would still say hold it there while the ex ess drips down and then you can put the second lid on. With using non HG resins you need to go into the settings and just switch off auto filling, and then you can just pour in the third party resin in the VAT as normal. I personally keep the bottles and just fill them with the new type of resin I am using as well as fill the VAT. But HG bottles are meant to be used and then thrown out I guess, better to keep them on you.
They’ve also got their new bottles coming out which are the same as traditional ones, so you could just fill these slot in bottles up. Keeps the price down which is nice. I’ve hung onto the empty bottles because I can just fill them up with other types of resin, or get the refillable HeyGears stuff
@@abtinbozorg I have used Anycubic standard, wargamer resin, elegoo standard 2.0, Elegoo ABS like. With profile I just use the Miniature setting with the 50um or the 30um either is fine. The HeyGears will adjust its self during the printing process.
Just stumbled on the channel. I really like the monthly breakdown and review of various creators and what’s new this month. This is going to be a huge help navigating the print and patreon space! Like and subscribed!
The wash station sounds really interesting, although it looks a bit violent. Do you think prints might get damaged or bent in it, because of clashing against each other? I would also love to see the cure station.
I have had it for almost a year now and never had an issue, works well and fun to watch. Like @greyscalpminiatures said it is really good with small parts because you won't lose them no more XD. It is an expensive piece of kit for a washing solution.
This is what happens when a major medical/dental printer creator, who must design for very non-technical medical office personnel, creates a printer for hobbyists. All of those ease of use designs come into play right off the bat. I've wasted so much time and resin due to setting fiddling and failures because of my mistakes in those settings of supporting, I'm not even phased by an closed ecosystem that means I don't have to become a printer technician. If I'd have started here, with the nearly 100% success in prints, I's say lock it down and throw away the key. I have seen that other RU-vidrs who have used other reasons as well with great results. Oh, and Sean, your video stabilization during the "Editor Sean" segment was nausea inducing if you watch your sound deadening panels ... 🤢
I just backed Solgood Studios latest "Might against the Maledict" Frontier. Not only do the minis look amazing, but as a studio their work has for a long time now been helping fund aid relief in Ukraine (one of the team of two is Ukrainian).
Better than a rattle can for primer and base coating. Don't even think about putting a good airbrish on as you will only burn it out. There is cordless compressors out there that will turn off when the trigger is released thereby taking the strain from the motor. This is ok as long as you dont expect to much from it.
I wonder if the back portion could be at an angle to help reduce the size increase? I think the big difficulty there is that the horizontal approach is likely far better for ensuring proper build plate alignment when putting on a new plate.
I love the champions of the critterfolk release. It is very much based on an old book series called "Redwall." I read them all when I was a kid. I will be picking them up thanks to your video.
