Helping Farmers since 1980 with fast, friendly service and expert advice!
In the late 1970's, Charles Kendall needed a better fence for his dairy cattle. He tried the high-tensile steel wire he had read about and was very impressed, finding it actually has solid advantages over any other fence he knew of - low cost, rugged strength and long life. He and his family started Kencove's fence business in 1980 because they felt the great advantages of the fence materials we sell should be known and available to everyone.
Since then, we have been constantly improving our services and knowledge to help you, our customers. Kencove Farm Fence 800 phone support team can guide you to the best fence supplies and tools for your situation. Top Quality, Reasonable Prices, Fast Delivery, VISA, MC, Discover payment - we want to make it easy for you to get the best so your fence project is a fulfilling success.
Is it your actual energizer or elsewhere? Whe I hear a pop it's on the wires which are grounding out as the energizer pulses voltage (the light blinking on the energizer). Your wire is probably grounding against a tstake if you hear an actual popping. Check each stake and where the wire is. You'll probably see the spark jumping from wire to post (grounding out and what you hear popping)
Hi there excellent comparison video Shane! For the rangemaster high tensile hinged knot field fence, how far would you stretch fence between H braces (on relatively flat ground). With rolls of 330', can you splice two rolls together and stretch the fence 660' between H braces? Can you stretch further than 660'? Are there downsides to stretching further runs?
You can splice 330' rolls together, make sure your slices are consistent so the wire pulls and tensions even across the entire length. You can stretch further than 660' as well, just pay attention to changes in topography/elevation. That consideration may be your biggest limiting factor in how far you can stretch.
@@KencoveFarmFence Thank you! Assuming a run that starts from a corner, is there a length at which you would need to double the H brace at the corner?
You show the strap on the pack at the start pf the video, then it's removed for the rest of. Can you explain how the strap is used/worn? Or better still, show this?
Eli prefers to use it without the strap as he feels it gets in his way, that's why it was removed. The strap clips to the metal loop on the upright of the yellow post holder, the other end clips to the guide close to the gear box. In the original Kiwitech videos (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z4S5Yse4MMw.html), they set the drag for easy pay out while strapped into the carry pack but they wind up while the pack is on the ground in an inverted/upside down orientation. This allows the crank handle to spin without tangling with the strap. Eli prefers to wind up while walking and therefore removes the strap so the crank handle is unhindered.
@@KencoveFarmFence Have found a workaround Clip the strap on to the metal riser from the gearbox It slides around, but once in place, and the strap is the correct length it works Either way it's not that ergonomic, rides up when you're winding in particularly
As a general rule of thumb, black insulator products seem to have a better UV resistance than other colors. Not sure which color you ordered, but that might be helpful insight for the future. Please give us a call and speak to our product specialists. Let's see what we can do about replacing those!
These posts are tapered, so we drove the tapered end into the ground. This creates a natural wedge effect and a tight hold in the ground without cement. We drive all our posts directly into the ground, only rarely using cement for specific situations.
Hi great videos. Never considered making the top wire an earth - how did you arrive at that concept. My standard cattle and sheep fence has over the last fifty years become a seven wire with 3 hot wires - every second wire starting with the top wire being hot. The bottom wire is always earthed the 6 th wire next to it is optionally earth - simply by connecting it with a wrap of wire to the adjacent earth or hot wire. Every second hole from the top of a standard Warratah Star Picket gives good spacing for a seven wire electric fence. Using this spacing makes it easy to replace a broken timber post with a star picket. In other cases I use Gallagher’s recommended wire spacing.
For a 7 or 6 wire fence the professional fencing contractors and myself included here in southern Australia use a 10’ minimum top brace, but usually no more than 12’. A double brace is used on any thing over a 4’ high fence.
Check out the Warratah Three Way Wire Spinner - probably expensive compared to this machine, but very versatile. My tip always yes always put a bend near the end of the wire before letting it return any were near the spinner - then just let it go or poke it into the ground - no need to fiddle around poking it into a hole. Without the small sharp bend (kink) in the wire if you just intentionally or accidentally let it go that end will disappear into the coil never to be found - yes it has happened to me
When I was broke I learnt to tie several good knots the tex broken is one of them - they are tied with the wire under tension - hence just use the chain walking type strainer to pull things up tight then tie off under tension (Hayes Strainers have been around for a long time there are several copies of this now fence line solutions au have one with an in-built tension indicator). On the rare occasion that I have need to retention a strainer assembly - just cut out the knot and put in a piece of wire using two Tex brown or similar knots one inside the wire strainer and one outside so it gets pulled up tight (a standard figure eight knots works here. Sure beats using expensive permanent strainers and crimps. Some use gripples but again they are getting expensive - best to learn how to tie knots between the wire strainer jaws with the wire under tension. As I said Tex Brown is the name of one, the other knot I cannot remember but it will be in the internet
Typically reels have handles attached at the open end. This allows you to attach to wires or posts at the other end. Everyone's context is different and there is no shortage of creative ways that people terminate their handle ends. The important thing to remember is conductivity. Is the gate handle attached to your reel/twine conductive or non-conductive? Make sure you don't ground out your voltage by hooking your handle to a wire or post that isn't insulated.
You can run high tensile around many corners and bends before you need to terminate. We only terminate where we want gate openings. More bends and corners only means you may have to install more strainers to evenly tension the wire the whole way around. Terminating at each corner can introduce issues when trouble shooting when each strand has a jumper wire connecting it to the next run of fence. If those connections are not neat and tidy, we have seen it cause a really headache for people trying to track down issues on their electric fence.
Thank you for the videos and fast shipment of my fence equipment. I have one question you have 6 strands 3 hot 3 ground. Where does the 3 ground wire connect to? I know the ground rods connect to the energizer and to each other. But where does the ground wires of the fence connect to? Thank you
I watched quite a few of videos on this product. Looks like it works geat but there is NO documentation on recommended torque settings for the size of the wire being used.
QUESTION: What is the length of the T-posts used in this video, & how far do they stick out of the ground to the top point? For the angled brace post, the angle created & placement location of the vertical post with the lower bracket, would vary based on the length of the posts. For distance accuracy of vertical posts placement for the lower brace, the formula of 12" to 16" from bottom of the plate on angled post, would create various lengths based on each posts overall length that is sticking out of the ground. Different fence heights would require different height of fence posts. This may be something for future videos.
Thank you KENCOVE for the arena I haven't personally used it yet but I do show and rodeo down there so when my horse is fired up I'm sure to take it to the practice arena thank you
We are thankful to have been able to help with this project and look forward to the arena serving the rodeo community for years to come! Best of Luck this season!
You say in the video that a Wedge-Loc diagonal brace is needed, but the brace serves no purpose when bracing a gate hinge post. You can see the post moving easily toward the gate (sag) in your video at about 4:51. As you say in your response to af7559, diagonal bracing wire will help, as it always does with any gate hinge post. I plan to use Wedge-Loc corner braces with a longer gate, with bracing wire aligned with the diagonal bracing T-post, pulling the posts together against the brace. (Fingers crossed.) If you have an opportunity to provide feedback to Wedge-Loc, you might want to request a means of securing the brace T-post to the 60deg socket, and locking the 60deg socket to the collar. With those features, no bracing wire would be needed.
Came here to say the same thing. The corner braces work well because the tension of the fence pulls them together. There is nothing on this gate pulling the brace together and thus nothing holding the t post in place or adding any strength. What is the solution then?
@@rosemcommm I used bracing wire as I propose above, and it worked very well. Two strands from top of hinge post to bottom of brace post, twisted until taught. I also added a separate diagonal brace post from from the top of the brace post to a large rock on the ground between the hinge and brace posts, and it's rock solid. 10' gate, multiple posts braced with Wedge-Loc, and barbed wire turns cattle and seems very rigid.
I like this mount kit for a gate. I noticed on the web site that this bracket is on back order. Do you have an estimate on when they will be available?
This is a common question - There is no "gate". You simply turn off the power supply and can either step over the fence, or move your end post. If you want to make a small opening to use as the access point, purchase an additional step-in post and place it a short distance from your end post. That will act as a pivot point when you remove the end post to use as the entrance
@@KencoveFarmFence Thanks a lot for the answer! May i also ask the wall thickness? it´s just because i´ve seen many with the legs bent, and i would like to know if i could make a replacement for them
On electrified strands, does the loop around the strainer or tensioner provide good continuity to allow continuous flow or would wrapping the wire be better?
Crimping a regular strainer or using the quick end strainer both provide excellent conductivity. Wrapping vs crimping is only a preference for how you want to make that connection, both with conduct the electricity for you.
@@KencoveFarmFence Thank you. Alright - We will need to redesign our fence plan. We were planning for 6 strands of electrified high tensile and one additional bottom strand non-electrified barb wire and have a tight budget.
I like the gate brackets! Another question, what are you using for the 3 horizontal rails & associated brackets on the fence itself? I like that look and might fit a use case I have.
The insulators you choose would depend on what style of fence you are using. We have a wide variety of T-Post insulators. kencove.com/fence/t-post-insulators_listing.php
Wire spacing and configuration is truly dependent on your specific context and the species of animal. With five or six strand designs, usually two or three wires are electrified. There is no one-size-fits all answer, but we can give you solid recommendations for various species of livestock. Please give us a call at 1-800-536-2683 and we'd be happy to help you come up with the best configuration based on your needs!
Hi! This wedge lock system works very well! I have used them on 3 of my 4ft gates. Im getting a couple of 6 foot gates and one gate will be on a corner. Is there any kind of tension system that would work for the gate not to sag? I have googled and searched but cant find anything. Thanks!
You could clip insulators on the hanging post and the vertical brace post to allow you to run a brace wire, similar to how you would run diagonal brace wires on a wood post H brace. You could also use an earth anchor system to solidify the hanging post so it doesn't sag or lean with the weight of the gate. Both of these options would unify and solidify your Wedge-Loc braces and make them stronger for preventing leaning or sagging.
