Specializing in Tier 1 Special Operations Training. Training includes, but not limited to: Marksmanship, CQB, Vehicle Interdiction, Targeting Process and Development, Low Visibility Operations, Surveillance/ Counter-Surveillance, Mechanical and Explosive Entry, Land Navigation, Building / Bus / Aircraft Assault, Hostage Rescue, Vertical Entry, Mobility Operations, Close Target Reconnaissance, Threat awareness, and Night Vision Training.
Excellent presentation with focused content. You've explained the topics at a level of detail so we didn't get lost in the weeds. I'm going to sub and go back 8 episodes and devour them. Thanks for a job well done........
Delta Thirtyfour best vid ever on zero distance this guy is on point just takes forever. There is a part 2 also it is important. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9qkKJyMtpVI.html I use 2.5 H.O.B. at 36 but am thinking about the 3.44 Unity mount... That is part 2
Excellently presented. I firmly believe one should custom sight each weapon for its task and its ammunition… mission specific. ( former military and current state certified instructor)
Great video… one comment on the Urban Tap ( I’ve never used it) but it’s my understanding it is designed for LEO in “Urban” areas Ie not shooting at 300 or even 200 yards so it’s performance is not spelled to apples and whom ever brought that ammunition to that venue obviously didn’t know what they were bringing. Mission specific ad you’re definitely award if applies to all things related.
DON'T DRINK COFFEE DURING YOUR POST, IT IS OBNOXIOUS!!! YOU NEED AN EDITOR BECAUSE YOU USE 5 TIMES AS MANY WORDS AS ARE NEEDED TO CONVEY WHAT YOU ARE TRYING TO SAY. THUS YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME AND MINE!!!
Great info! I enjoy iron sights (while I still can) and my intended target is relatively small and can be located at close to moderately long range. I choose a 36 yard zero so my max bullet rise is about 4” at 200 yards. I like this zero with iron sights because I can lollipop a small target out to 300 yards. The closer the target, the easier it is for me to aim inside my target. At 300 yards I just put the very small target on the front post. At that distance I must confirm it’s really a groundhog and not a clump of dark earth. 😁
I want a 2.6 (hob of A2 sites) eventually. Trying to dial it in at 64 (with so many approximated variables I figure guess and check will be the best way to find the zeros that give me that)
Right now I cannot outshoot the weapon. pretty new to rifles but I like the Point Blank Radius as a free variable and finding the zeros to give me that would give me my best shot in an adrenaline filled expirience. I hope to find my Point Blank Range eventually, but I need to be able to get a decent group at a couple 100 yards with irons first
For this process- the trajectory is analyzed before the grouping. You measure velocity, environment, and critical rifle measurements and run it through software. Grouping just needs to be tight before the application of the zero can be made mechanically through sight adjustment.
As a mathematician I am interested in studying these models and derivations. But like you said *gotta be able to get a decent group first* That's why I figure going through the above process and narrowing in on it based on my holdovers (plus it will help me more quickly adapt to different holdovers, and get a feel for maxima, far zero, pbradius, pbrange, with respect to near zero. Then I can compare the mathematical results (might make a decent paper, diving in from a mathematical perspective. I'm sure it cones down to differential equations ..... everything does. I'm just not quite sure the current model of drag, I know at low velocity it raises with it, but higher up it rises with the square of velocity. But once I look into it I'll know how to work with it
Don't forget that for the Santos 36 yard zero, the factory setting for the rear elevation needs to be reset on where it bottoms out. It should bottom out 2 clicks past where factory set it at on the M16a2.
I only briefly mentioned it to explain the origin of it. That type of zero will not match the ballistics of your common AR-15, ammo and sight combinations
All kidding aside- I get it man. This was just a free content video I put out. It wasn't planned. I'm not a light and sound pro, so the production quality is just homemade. I woke up in the morning and put out a video, wasn't for the clicks or money- just to toss out some thoughts. It isn't the polished and clean videos other guys put out- so it isn't for everyone.
@@Greeneyetactical lol..brother just like I get annoyed by things about others, I’m sure I’m part of that too…lol like your content you’re very knowledgeable of the things you talk about keep it up
what do you recommend for a lpvo with a bdc? i realize the manufacturer wants you to zero at a specific distance (usually 100 yards) and then their holdovers are supposed to be "close" at the ranges, but with all the variables it seems like it might actually be better to have a custom zero and be within 3" at 300 yards or so and just ignore the bdc rather than relying on a bdc that might be wildly off depending on the factors.
I would suggest a standard Christmas tree reticle over a BDC. However if you have a BDC, I would recommend collecting data first, then analyzing it with a ballistic program. Once you can see the data you can decide what the best choice can be, whether it is a MPBR zero or whether you match the BDC's subtentions with the actual drop you calculate to determine what the holds actually match.
I'm a big fan of looking up the ammo ballistics you will be using and type of optic. Just match up the intersection. You can even use shorter ranges to simulate the distance.
It is a good starting point, as long as you remember you still have to physically measure your actual height over bore, the actual muzzle velocity from your rifle and the atmospherics when collected.
@@Greeneyetactical Thank you. The rules state that when displaying both sides of the flag, it should be properly displayed for the greatest number of viewers. For example: When in a window, it is to be displayed PROPERLY for those on the street and sidewalk, not for those in the room. In this case, for those viewing through the camera, not for those in the closet.
14:43 more power, not more energy you just want more of the energy while it's in the barrel. Technical but yeah, thought I'd let you know incase you care
"You need energy to move mass, and if you need to mass to a set speed in a shorter distance you need more energy" 15:05 ish is the sentence I was referring to btw, if both mean kinetic muzzle energy the sentence is circular and makes no sense, one must have been chemically released energy..... I guess you can argue "chemically released energy in the barrel" is implied, but just saying you need higher power rounds means that and has no implication. But I'm a mathematician, maybe y'all get sloppy with your units when it doesn't really matter.
I think thus is the best presentation on youtube btw, not trying to dog you .... I'm an organic chemistry and mathematician.....I can't help myself when it comes to units.
I didn't say "power", that would not be a proper term for this. The statement isn't circular- it is referring to a shorter barrel, where you need faster burning propellant. These are the proper and common terms for ballistics. Usage of terms can vary in different disciplines. If you'd like to deep dive the application of some of these terms, I would suggest picking up Brian Litz's Applied Ballistics books. They are very good.
So basically they should make sights that have maybe 3 saved settings that can quickly be dropped into, kinda like having personalized driver seat settings in a car. You click person 1, 2, or 3 and it moves the seat to that saved position..
I'm aware. There is no way you actually watched this video, otherwise you would not be posting what you did. The drops you listed will not remotely match every AR-15's zero. People run anywhere from -10" to 18" barrels with rounds 50-77gr in weight, various twist rates and powder loads.
Again, you did not watch this video and you do not know what you are talking about. You can keep your snide comments. You made a comment that was outside of your depth of knowledge and then got upset. You could have watched the video or done some basic research and avoided this.
Sorry but I had to turn the sound off. He said “right” over four hundred times and it drove me nuts. I just wanted to know if I should zero at 25 or 50 yards.
This just makes the point that range days are meant to gather data to refine your understanding of your weapon, optic, and ammo. I've also heard a good philosophy for zeroing is to look to have the smallest poa/poi variance for the practical distance you and your rifle will be shooting at and that requires getting out and testing your equipment at those distances.
In terms of your custom zero I'm not completely understanding the point of it. This is my take on things, hopefully it makes sense. You should likely go to some police documents and gather the data on the on the ranges at which shootings take place at and take the average of it. For simplicity, I am going to take your numbers from 50:22. So for my example, we will assume the avg shooting occurs at 50 yds. From there I agree that not all ammo is standardized so you would need to run a specific ammo out of a specific barrel length for this 50 yds range. Obviously, at this point we must then zero for 50 yds, the next part is where we disagree to a point. The shooter needs to know where all the holdovers/unders for various other ranges. In your example at 50:22 I dont really see an issue with having a 50 yd zeros as long as the shooter knows there is a drop of approx 11" at 250 yds and approx 5" drop at 200 yds. I do think the shooter does need to be aware of how much the shot drops, but I would say the same thing about the custom zero you created in the same time hack 50:22 at 32 yds. The shooter should know his/her drops at various different ranges as well. Given your background compared to mine I am going to say it is more than likely I am missing something and that I am in fact wrong here, I would just like to know how I am wrong. I opted for this public format bc I suspect other people might have this question too.
Dude, 1 hour plus? Your up there with conspiracy podcasts. Enjoy the info and the work you put into it, but need to plan ahead to absorb all the good info. Think about making a short to compress your point, then a 18min video explaining your point in the short, then watch this one. It's an hour and not sure it's info I want or need, so people will pass on it
I don't do cliff's notes. Either people want the instruction and the information or they don't. Plenty of people out there happy to just briefly cover things and not get in depth.
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into this... Personally I think those who are arguing about which zero is best is the keyboard commando's that live in mommy's basement, eating Cheeto's and complain to their doctor that the only place they have Jaundice is on their penis.. When the day comes that these people actually need to use these skills,, they will tuck tail and run or just hand over their weapon the same way they rolled up their sleeve in fear and became a guinea pig.. WIth that said,,, those who really are aware of the importance of this,,, are probably more so for LEO's or Schiznit hit the fan patriots.. The question that is most important is what is your mission... That will determine your zero... Are you clearing buildings were your farthest shot is maybe 50 feet? or are you out in the boonies where the closest neighbor is a mile or 2 away? And thats where I am.. Out in the boonies... I set up my AR for 0-700,, with a 100yd zero, and anything further than that goes to the more expensive ammo... which these days are over 2 bucks a round in my area... Good grief.. Unreal.. I do reload but I still shoot factory ammo.. Anyway,,, My favorite is the 100yd zero.. its easier for me to do the math on the fly,, but mostly rely on my kestrel.... That my 2 fractional cents...
Ive been watching a lot of videos and reading articles/books on this subject, and this is the first video that was grounded in logic and did not parrot the bad information of others. Thank you!!
