We have the same stuck driver's door on a 2006 Tundra, same access door configuration. The driver's door panel is already removed so we can access the driver's door latch from the inside. Perhaps by viewing your latch repair videos we can determine a method to open the driver's door without going through the access door? We'll see.
@@robertzavala7064 Good luck. I tried kicking it from the inside to a point of near damage to my door with zero results. I had no choice but to go thru the Access door.
Yeah Mike doesn't know basic suspension components 101. Either Mike is a total idiot or he did it intentionally. Either way, Mike doesn't deserve the hard earned money of his neighbors given the testimony here.
Awesome Video , A Lot of Hard Work . Congratulations Best Video #1 going though and Cleaning air Cores Is Cool . I`m the same way have to do a complete Repair cleaning job . #1 American Made. Lets Take Care OF HER
Thank you That fixed my truck perfect. My assembly is discontinued and no one could find a used one, if they coud it was $400.00. The cost of the repair was $5.00 for a new clip for one of the rods.
Thank you for posting this. I had already watched this before going to find a mechanic to replace it. First place I went to tried telling me they would have to disassemble everything under the hood and remove my engine to access my replace my heater core because it was all in the engine compartment. The indignation and denials when I called their bluff were awesome.
I am experiencing this failure, but got my door open. After a week or so of the door feeling weird (no positive open feeling, felt like I was pulling open a locked door), it slowly got worse until one time I closed it and it wouldn’t open again. Tried all handles, pulled hard, rolled the window down and pulled as hard as I could…nothing. After finding Ron’s videos, I tried one of the other commenters suggestion…I sat In the drivers seat, pulled the handle, and aggressively threw my shoulder into the door, after 3 big hits, the door broke free. I’m confident it will never open again if I close it, but just wanted to note I got it open by slamming my body in to it. As of 12/23, everywhere is sold out of the actuator. Even if you place an order, they cancel it and email you an out of order error. On to trying to fix it.
IMPORTANT NOTE.. If your doors are stuck closed, just remove the drivers (or passenger door) panel and gain access to the latch mechanism. You can carefully unscrew part of the plastic dust shroud at the bottom, then pry open the side of the shroud enough (about 1") to insert a 10" long flathead screwdriver (with about a 1/4" width head) looking downward about 50-60% down the latch assembly and then push down on the release cog lever (as seen in this video). It's towards the bottom side of the latch, and boom... door opens!!!! We already had the panel off and it took me only 10 seconds. No cutting, no removal of the access cab door panel.. just a screw driver. And then,... Secondly, for the final fix / mod of the latch lever detailed in this video, I instead used a 5/16" plastic nylon washer from Home Depot (about 3/4" in diameter x 1/16" thick with 5/16" hole), but then carefully sanded it down with 220 grit on a very flat surface for 10 minutes to ~.050" (checked with micrometer in several places) and then made a notch cut out that's 1/8" wide to essentially make it into a circlip (like he does in video with the metal tab). Depending on how much slop you have you may only need a washer that's about 1/32" thick. After this you then bend the small metal armature tab which engages the locking lever and dog/cam outward about 30-40 degrees (from a squared 90)... and that's it. Done. The power lock replacements are $250 on Amazon (per door) so this is a fantastic fix. It does however require full disassembly and cleaning of the mechanisms and springs which can be easy to lose. I used an aluminum cookie sheet and paper towels to keep track of everything. From pullout, cleaning, modding, reassembly, and then reinstall in the vehicle you're looking at about 3-4 hours per door. But to do both in a day and save $500.. it's well worth it!
Both of my drivers doors were stuck after what I thought was having fixed the drivers door latch. And with only the drivers door panel off (not messing with rear door at all), I was able to peel back the plastic shroud around the latch assembly just enough to get a 10" long flathead screwdriver in the door latch toward the bottom and push downward on the latch mechanism (the cog/dog lever) and bam, it instantly unlocked the door! Takes all of 10 seconds. I was in fact only able to do this after having watched your Part 1 /Part 2 repair videos so that I could understand where latch armature bar contacts the cog/dog lever which is the part that actually unlocks the door. lastly, for anyone reading, I left added comments on his Part 1 repair for how I fixed my latches. As far as the looseness and up/down play of that little lever arm I made a plastic circlip out of a plastic washer with 5/16" center hole that I then cut a 1/8" slit into to slide it onto the riveted pin. I had to sand the washer down a little with 300 grit paper on a really flat surface so that the lever still moved freely but without any up/down slop and it worked perfect. That and bending out the end of the armature about 30-40 degrees where the contact point engages the lock lever is definitely the business! $250 per door saved with this mod!!!
The cabin filter that I am currently using is no longer available. You have two options for these filters. You can have the one that comes with two filters or you can get just the one filter.BOSCH 6050C is an option. You can also Google cabin filter for the year and model of your vehicle and it should fit.
You rock Mako. I had the exact same issue with the gap in the pressed on washer. (6:30) Followed your tip and it is now working perfectly. Besides that you did a excellent job explaining how the whole thing worked. Like Russ said, I owe you a beer. 🍺
This is absolute gold. Do you also peel off the rest of the degraded / ripped black plastic coating on the rotating disc and latch cog? I notice that once the plastic wears off those two, the edges of the worn plastic will cause them to catch and causes additional issues with closing/opening in addition to the lever mechanisms you're showing in this video. So in other words I think there is two parts to this issue, the two latch cogs which rotate and then the armature bar and rotating lever that the latch cog attaches to.
@@mako00671 Im talking about the two main interior parts, both 1/4” thick. The C shaped latch and the other one which is the unlock part.. They are originally coated in black plastic but it wears off over time and doesn’t allow them to rotate properly. It looks like most or all of the plastic is stripped off yours.
Not sure how you did your cabin air filter, but I'm planning on rerouting the box intake (and add ductwork to utlize the passenger side decorative vent as both the intake and removal/installation location for the Cabin air filter.
Good video, is that an original. My original latch had a plastic coating on the striker. My issue is the plastic coating are damaged and the striker wont latched .
@@266mauricio My blend door stem broke from the flap so when I twist the stem, it just spins so it is not attached to the flap anymore. It is too much of a hassle to remove the whole front consoles, dash etc then remove the air con unit then take it apart then put it back together. My son uses it and he will go off to college in the fall so I will make it a project in my garage and hopefully no major humps with the repair. Also looking for the part is difficult. Have to order a different GMC blend door then midofy it by cutting it and sanding it to be the right fit.
I was thinking on cutting the ac housing just under where that stem is, get it out from under just the stem, then find a way to attach it back to the flap then just reseal the ac housing.
Hey man, thanks so much for this tip. That's exactly what was wrong with my tundra driver side latch. Mine was just sticking bad, so I was able to open door by jerking hard, and didn't have to cut off bolts. I found a small remnant of the disintegrated white plastic washer still in mechanism. Followed your guidance and it seems to be working. Took me about 3 hours, but this is the first time I've taken a door apart. If it happens to my passenger side I think it will only take me about an hour or so next time. You have tremendous diagnostic skills!!! I don't think I would have ever figured it out on my own. THANKS!!!
I had exactly the same problem. I fixed it by bending the metal a little and worked just fine for over a year until it did it again. Now I need to find out if I can open the door by reaching out to that little mechanism and help pushing it to release the door without breaking into the other one.
Good tutorial video. It was reliable for my 2001 Tundra and provided me with the mechanical understanding of the mechanisms. I was able to bend the tab on the throw lever, which gave it a longer push for the release. Thanks for the video. I owe you a beer.
