Thanks........well, bad luck........after placing my order with EA, they've filed bankruptcy and shutdown the plant. At least they didn't take my money up front on the rake and toothbar this time like they did with the disk harrow and grapple I bought from them. Guess I'll have to do some more research on rakes.
Thanks for the video. I’m in the market for one. My lawn is nice, but I know I have a lot of stones under the surface, (I’m from New England , too). Can you comment on how you think this will do when hitting occasional stones?
Good review. This is what I decided to order too. Pretty long build time, but I think it will be worth the wait. Like you, I'd rather buythe best and pay a little more and wait than buy an inferior implement. Buy once, cry one. 🙂 What tractor are you using?
@@FreightDog2129 I would say depends. If your yard is relatively flat and you have enough grip with the rear tires then no. If you are going to spin the rears at any point and ruin your lawn then yes.
Good job. With a little more wiring and a few more bolt on items, you can easily wire in a limit switch (or two) to stop the actuator in either direction. Simply series in a limit switch to the common wire. This way you can set the opening for the type of fertilizer/seed your using and not have to manually stop the gate.
I already had a battery tender style connection to the battery so I was able to utilize that. Something like this. Battery Tender Ring Terminal Harness Accessory Cable, Cord Adapter with SAE Quick Disconnect a.co/d/2WHY1yX
Thanks for this video. I have the cellulose insulation in my house and I noticed my house just doesn’t retain heat that well. At first I thought I need to replace all my windows ( 30 years old ) but I figured to start out with I’d try adding some insulation to the attic
I just replaced my tow behind with a new one. Always a problem with opening, closing, and adjusting the flow gate. Also a problem with gate corrosion making it inoperable. Check out the Chapin 8620B tow behind. It has a AUTO on/off for product, no levers to bother with, AND a non corrosive gate. It's a winner!!!
@@adventureswithtim5598 i have thoes old paper attached insulation R21 , should i trash them and put some new ones, because i want to use the loose insulation 1st and then put R30 rolls without paper.
The paper is a barrier and should only be facing the drywall. The key is not to have insulation-paper-insulation or you will have a mold issue. You can pull the paper off to save some money! Not sure how easy it would be on old insulation.
@@adventureswithtim5598 that's what i was thinking, i probably try to save some of it by taking the paper off and use it. That video helped me a lot . Also if i want to put some boards so to walk on is it a good idea to put boards like 8 inch wide and 60 or 70 inch in length on top of insulation or just leave it as is
If you need walking platform I wouldn't put it directly on the insulation. Compressed insulation is useless. Build a frame and make sure to insulate under it.
Thanks for the share - I may have missed this answer that I about to ask. How many stumps and their average circumference did you accomplish in your 4 hour window? (and I realize you had some setup time and recording time you dealt with as well). Thanks again!
Hard to fully remember but I was able to get rid of at least 10-15 little 4-16" stumps. I think 2-3 12" stumps and then a monster. Species of wood and age of stump really will determine time as I was working through black cherry and its very tough! Cuts through pine like it wasn't even there.
I am unsure of the oil. The manufacturer is Barreto which you may be able to find on their website. This unit barely heated up for me and I bet it is designed to work all day!
I just had 3 trees removed. All about 30-35" diameter stumps from 50+ year old trees. It cost me $4600 to have them removed and to remove stumps was gonna cost about another $2k so I was wondering how hard these were to use since it's only about $320 at my local home depot. I think I'll try this myself. Thanks for showing us how it works!
I highly doubt that unless that's a friend, family members price. I also live in upstate NY with a stump grinder, and I wouldn't touch 3 - 36" stumps for less than $1,200 it's not worth the drive and your time to do for less when you factor in the cost of equipment, insurance etc... running a legitimate business isn't cheap. However, I completely agree if you are able and have a truck to transport you will save a ton renting one and doing it yourself!
@@xtexbrown technically he told me it would be approximately $1400 just to do basic grinding to the ground but if I wanted him to go down below the surface and grind all the big roots since this was a big tree that would bring it closer to $2000 including hauling away all the chips. This is in Washington state south of Seattle.
@@osuevans86 Unfortunately the factory light switch was already missing so I had to get a little creative wiring it. I was able to use some original wires so it is fused and connected to the ignition switch. I did add an additional switch for independent control of headlights and rear lights. The original hazard switch was still there so I was able to reuse that.
@@adventureswithtim5598 Gotcha, yeah I may have to totally rewire all the lights on mine, luckily it seems all the switches work. It’s a shame support for these tractors is so hard to come by. There is a place out in Elizabethtown, PA that deals primarily in used Ford tractor parts called Long Lane Tractor. I was able to find the hazard lights through them and they seem to have a pretty good inventory of stuff. I didn’t know if you knew about them or not, but sounds like you’ve got it pretty well figured out. Looks like a really nice machine!
The manual for this machine says to start at full throttle in the cold. There seems to be a lot of controversy on that topic. Maybe you could try and see if it makes a difference? I would pull it down to idle after starting.
I use the foot throttle to hold it down and then let go to idle. Recently installed a kats circulating tank heater into the block (previous owner looks like they had one). Starts up soooo easily now.
Nice machine...drive belt needs adjustment and don't come down on top of the stump...set your depth and work your way in using the front of the wheel...not the bottom...then you wont miss anything
So far so good here. I haven't found a way to break it yet and I would definitely buy it again. I find myself using my mig to tack pieces in place and then coming back for the nice welds (well nice for me) with this thing. Truthfully though these units seem to be simple so if you find something cheaper I wouldn't really hesitate too much unless there are 0 reviews from a unknown brand.
@@adventureswithtim5598 I own a Metal Man Arc80T but that is maxed at 80 amps at 110 no 220 option and that machine is very good atleast for my purposes
