Let MiracleMAX show you how to 'Make The Complex, Simple!'
This channel is designed to inspire others to 'give it a go' and see what skills you can gain. Most things we learn are from others and MiracleMAX is no exception.
He would like to thank all others on RU-vid, the Web, tradesmen that were willing to share and an old school generation that just wants to pass on their years of accumulated knowledge.
By following MiracleMAX's logical diagnostic path, you too will be able to 'make the complex, simple'.
Just remember, as long as you are humble and willing to listen, you are never too old to learn!
I changed the diesel filter after that I start the vehicle about 30minute the engine running as normal but after that when I try to do the road test the edc light on and now the vehicle cannot start at all😢Can you give me some opinion?
Those VZ ECM's are notorious for playing up according to my auto electrician, he replaced mine with one I purchased new from Zupps. The engine had a miss when hot, I could always get it to play up by heating the ECM with a heat gun, that's how I proved it was the ECM. The auto electrician said that the replacement ECM is an upgraded unit and are far more reliable than the original.
@@MiracleMAX When I pulled the faulty one apart, using a microscope I noticed that some of the fine wires that went to the sockets looked as though they were touching, whether that was causing the problem or not I'm not sure. The car was fixed so I didn't want to mess with it.
Difficult to say. What fault codes do you have and what testing have you done so far? Does it happen at idle, higher RPM or only when the vehicle is driving?
Thanks Max. Great video. I have done this crappy job before but have saved this video to re-watch for next time as a familiarisation. Took me approx 6 hours (including intake cleaning). Certainly didn't set any speed records.
I also have another video in the pipeline for intake cleaning on a 4M41. Lots of fun.......NOT. I've done heaps of cleans on the 4D56 & I am not a speedster either. Quality work takes time.
Great video Max. I found this on the TaT repair solutions when i had a VZ v6 in for a similar fault (intermittent no start). Replaced the sensor and checked at the ecm plug, found no oil, but i didnt check the cam sensors 😯 I did replace the crank sensor and seems to have lasted a few months now without further faults, fingers crossed. These can also get coolant through a failing ect sensor. Cheers mate
you're the man buddy, mine 2017 model had the light on, stopped to put oil, cos i was worried, i hoped that the light will go off, but it didn't. I saw your video and bang, it f........ worked. thanks a lot
Gee Max, You have me worried now. I have got to do the same thing with my Crewman. I have many scan tools and two of them that I was going to use was either my G-Scan or G-Scan2. The scan-2 has been updated till 2020 so hopefully will still have the required software. I may play it safe and use the old faithful G-Scan as that has not been updated since 2014. Thats plain wrong on the manufactures side especially the ridiculous price to update the machines. Not sure on the price now, but as of 2020 the updates were $750 for either of the G-Scans. Needless to say, I never updated as $750 is better spent on upgrading to the G-Scan3 and with that will have up to date software as well as probably two years of future updates. My guess is there is not the capacity of these tools to have all the old as well as the new software on at the same time, so some has to go. Definitely something to quiz the supplier about if and when I bite the bullet. So, was the coils and other work really required before? Great video as usual there Max
They are making it more difficult for us. Charging more, but cutting out the older vehicles, which most of us are still working on. One scan tool will just not cut it and it also makes you think about whether you should get rid of the older scan tools that you might have or not. The other video about the ignition coil replacement on this vehicle is here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l3jQBpqO6Qc.html Yes, one of the 'new' coils had failed. 🤔
Scan tools dropping functionality....... that's flippin cheeky! I would 100% expect/demand that for the $1200+ worth of update licence I would have legacy support indefinitely.
Yup, it's getting worse with also now having to purchase secure gateway access as well. Customers might complain about the cost of repair, but we have to gain access to all sorts of data and information to repair their vehicles and that money has to come from somewhere. Everyone is selling products with less quantity (even scan tools) for the same price or more. It's not getting better, that's for sure! 🤔
I’d also suggest doing the PCV mod that solves oiling issues with them. When the PCV is blocked we can see oil coming out of every weak point in the crank case or otherwise. Top hole should be drilled out to 3mm and the bottom two holes drilled out to 2mm. It’s a solid fix. A blocked and undersized PCV flow could well be forcing oil through a compromised Oil Pressure Sensor.
Yes they did have blockages there. I cleaned them out when I did the spark plugs and coils. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l3jQBpqO6Qc.html
@@FuManchu5ltr Yeah, that's right, & plus I put a air/oil separator can in the crankcase to inlet path, to reduce carbon build-up. Some may call it a 'catch can', but mine has a pipe & tap, where I can drain it into a container. I've heard catch cans just send the oily mist to atmosphere. My can is normally sealed.
@@nevillegoddard4966 The catch can does not release the emissions to atmosphere. It separates oil, hydrocarbons, soot, and condensation from the crankcase gasses, recirculating the filtered gasses back into the intake system.
@@MiracleMAX Oh right! Good to know! Thanks! Anyway, they're a good idea especially on Direct-Injected engines, & I was pleased to learn the timing chains of my VZ alloytec still aren't 'rattly' yet. Hey, & thanks heaps Miracle Max! - I changed my leaking, growly water pump a coupla weeks ago on the same engine with the aid of one of your videos - Well done! Cheers!
Great advice and fault finding bliss 😍 These coild are like Crank/Cam sensors, is why they usually come in packs of 2 (sensors) or 4 (in the coils case) Had a few Pulsars and Xtrails where customer has replaced one or two coils and now the others have failed! Bad spark plugs, as well, can ovetload these coil types ive found. Cheers Max 👍
OMG!! That was all diagnostic time :O Great techniques through those steps. Well done, I like how you asked the Customer to buy his own genuine parts, as sometimes they can do this but take them elsewhere to be fitted. I hope you charged for all that time. Wow she is running smooth as!! well done, Cheers
Actually I did a quote for genuine injectors, but he said that he could get them cheaper through his brother who was in the trade. Yes a lot of diagnostic time, but I had to be sure before recommending these expensive parts.
Hello Max, excellent video, thanks for all the info. I have a similar problem with my 2.5 triton, the EGR have been already been replaced and the code persists. I don't have the tools to do a diagnosis like you, but with the engine light still on, i removed the motor of the EGR and when i turn the vehicle on i can see the egr motor moving, also if i push with my fingers on the valve i can move it, so im thinking that the EGR is not stuck and the motor its also receiving signal and working. What else should i be checking? I also notice that if i let the engine idle for a few minutes after i turn it on, then when I'm driving around at 2000 or 3000 rpm, i feel like the power get inconsistent. Thanks!
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the reply, I only have a multimeter, the code is also P2413, do you think the map sensor may have something to do with it? When you spray the cleaner through the map sensor hose, you did that to clean the intake and the EGR? Or to clean map sensor conduct?
@@Carloscf13 It is very difficult to make suggestions without inspecting it myself. If you have limited tools and knowledge on testing procedures, it may be best to take it to a local workshop where they can examine live data and carry out activations with a scan tool. I have found this relating to your fault code that may be helpful. mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/pajero_iv/online/Service_Manual/2008_eu/13/html/M113350830014200ENG.HTM
@@MiracleMAXoh yeah I'll check it out, I am a subscribed member of TaT 😁 a great bunch of Auto Techs they are (you included) I have gotten some excellent repair info and tips off their website and contributed my own repair solutions. Cheers mate
@@MrConspark Excellent! I've just put in a TATAssist for a VE I'm working on that's causing a major headache. It's great to get feedback from others. We all need help at one time or another.
Great tutorial, but what a gin around just to get the tappet cover off. I thought modern sport bikes were bad. I'll definitely be watching again when it's time to do my valves.
"Mechanic" lol Very good video Max, I now know how to read fuel trim numbers :) (I am making one of those test globy thingys like yours, hope I don't infringe on the Max part # copywrite) very good observation and fault location techniques, great to see helpers getting involved (Frankenswine? LOL) That other guy really knows how to fire the ole parts cannon at jobs hey? But without any sorta hand skills or observation of what he did there :(
I am sometimes amazed at what others feel comfortable throwing at a vehicle. Not their problem - the customer has to pay. Bad attitude. It is great having helpers....even Frankenswine 🤣
I have a little knobby bit that tends to hang out sometimes LOL Thanks again Max, sometimes these are hard to get to and sometimes not. Cheers A bit of warning to peeps with an Isuzu MUX or Dmax, A Dealer charged me $78 for this filter (when I can get them for $30 odd as I have a trade account) was NOT happy Jan
The best way to test them or most suspension components is to get a screwdriver and lever against the bush and the metal holding it. Have you checked them? Don't forget to check the sway bar bushes as well.
I wish i watched this b4 buying a Triton. Such a labor intensive motor. From balance shaft belts to valve clearances and injectors. All requiring huge amounts of time to carry out any work.
Yup, when they are going well, they are great......when they are not going so well, then not so much. I have quite a few Triton videos on the channel that might interest you. Yes the maintenance is quite labour intensive. Thanks for your comment 😉
Good idea Max... Hallo from S Africa. Interesting how different manufacturers utilise those bushes... many Volkswagen and Audi products use them as control arm bushes in the front.... and yes they can be a pain if ever you tried to do it yourself. This seems like an easy solution.
You could use a tool such as this one. www.ebay.com.au/itm/154409022546 which would be a better option, but the way I have shown is just for a quick test method to see if the coil will actually fire. As mentioned, this is for testing purposes only. I am showing it particularly for DIY guys if they have no other testing equipment. What method would you use?
never buying one of those cars , removing the inlet manifold just to do plugs etc NUTS , like the modern V8's take the heads off to change lifters NUTS
This is one of the easy ones to do. I did a Toyota Kluger the other day, which was a pain to replace the spark plugs in. Other trauma inducing vehicles are the 2.7 lt diesel in the Ford Territory (Land Rover engine) and Toyota Landcruiser V8, where the starter motor is underneath the inlet manifold. Engineers really do hate us! 🤔☹️
@@MiracleMAXmy 4.0lt V6 Hilux comes to mind, had one failed spark plug, after replacing all 6 (manifold off job) only 6 months prior with genuine Denso, so went looking for other things. Coils, air leaks etc. Engineers hey? Gotta love to hate them 😲🤣👍
@@MiracleMAX i was a kid but the days before iraq etc etc were better . if only i could live as long as the women in the family they all made it into the mid to late 90's . nana etc had a horse n buggy as a kid , no refridgeration etc , home grown foods, even in her nineties she only ate meat n veg, salad n meat ,nothing sweet almost no bread. ive gone oldschool massive veg garden, chooks, fruit trees , wood fired stove etc im fighting modernity LOL. Got an old CL val and hz one tonner to restore.
Love your informative videos. I have a Triton ML with the 4M41 motor, which has done 113.500 klms It is hard to start and blows white smoke on cold mornings. Went into limp mode and scan shows P0089 , changed SCV , filter , fuel in tank but still showing code . FRP is 9,500 psi at idle and around 15,000 at cruising speed but occasionally runs rough at idle and builds rail pressure up to 25,000 psi and blows white smoke but clears when you restart the vehicle. I was told the SCV needs a relearn . Any help would be appreciated!
Have you checked for any air to the high pressure pump? Have you done a small injection quantity relearn? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z6_ru3XxO20.html What are your desired compared to your actual fuel pressures? You should do a fuel pump supply relearn. Pressures should be roughly 33000 kpa at idle, 56000 kpa at 2000 RPM....roughly. You also may need to check the fuel pressure regulator.
Professional trouble shooting and very good presentation. I know that many electrical and mechanical tradespeople have encountered defective new parts. Sometimes depending on the component, it may be best to use OEM. Look forward to your video on pico.
Stay tuned. I'll have a video coming out soon using the Pico to confirm my diagnosis. I agree with the OEM suggestion. Some of the aftermarket is getting a bit dodgy.
Good advice and fault finding techniques Max. Always try to visually identify those signs, of bad connections everywhere, including the basics like battery terminal condition. Good pick up with the burn marks on that coil. Cheers mate
I don't have a proper diagnostic tool, I have had a lot of coil pack problems over the years with the VZ. I test the coil packs with an oscilloscope while the engine is running by placing the probe on top of each coil pack, the spike should be around the same amplitude on each coil, if I'm lucky, the faulty coil pack is one that is not covered by the plenum chamber. The probe needs to be placed exactly in the same position on each unit, it won't damage the oscilloscope because it is capacitively coupled, probably only a few Pico farads.
You are using a proper diagnostic tool! The oscilloscope is an amazing piece of equipment that is becoming vital to proper automotive diagnostics. You can also use a relay across the control coil with an oscilloscope as a pick up on the ignition coil to get a great waveform. I have a video coming up shortly testing the injectors with my Picoscope. Something to look forward to if you are interested in oscilloscope diagnosis.
@@krystal5887 I have used my lab Rigol oscilloscope before in the workshop. Sounds like you are good at thinking outside the box. Keep up the good work!
Have you had trouble finding one? Here is just one located through Repco. www.repco.com.au/parts-service/fuel-system/fuel-pressure-regulators/bosch-fuel-pressure-regulator-0280160592/p/A9412410?kwSearch=fuel%20pressure%20regulator
@@MiracleMAX Thanks but the VS is different and harder to get than a comprehensive policy statement out of Don old Trump. BUT just as I was going to give up, I found the last one on earth and drove nearly 2 hours to get it before it disappeared and now they have. This must have sidelined stacks of VS ecotech cars. Don't buy a non runner unless you want it for parts...
AutoData says it should take 3.10 hours. Not unless you are strung up on 20 cups of coffee! These times are based on a new vehicle with no issues. No overtightened bolts, no injectors that are stuck in place, no updating of the coding or small injection quantity relearn. I am not fast by any means, just thorough. I would personally allow another hour or two, especially if this is your first time.
