Welcome to Follow The Builds. This all started when I was 16 and got my first Mustang. It was quadruple tone color and barely running. My dad said if you want to drive this then fix it. I dug into the Mustang magazines and started building my dream ride. After over a dozen builds it has become a passion of mine to find and put these ole Mustangs back on the streets and upgraded with a few creature comforts and subtle mods. If you are in the learning phase of restoconversion then you are in the right place. There will be plenty of amature problems to solve, as well as some “would you look at this” moments. Also, plenty of fun moments as these Mustangs hit the streets. If you wanna build it, you can. Please like and subscribe.
I haven’t. It has not been an issue at all like I thought it might. There is a gps sensor that I’ve been contemplating trying out but haven’t yet. It adjusts sensitivity by speed.
Hey so I’m thinking about installing the old air system in our son’s 67 and saw your video. He has a curved Monte Carlo bar installed. Question I have is do you think that it will still fit after the compressor install? Thanks for any info!
It looks like you had to weld one of the tabs on the center section part. Did you have any trouble since the center section is cast? When I talked to ridetech they said don’t weld the tabs on the cast part
Bro thanks that was a great video … if you can’t easily get a donner back end can you buy 2 separate outer quarters and a roof outer skin? Or is the inner on the roof panel different ? Love from 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Can you offer any advice for someone dealing with the passenger side rear brake getting stuck and smoking, however the driver side rear is not. Any suggestion of what is going on or how to fix it? (btw I have a 68 straight 6, four lug wheel nuts) Thanks
The rear brake cylinder likely needs replacing. It is likely you are in for a fight to get the rear drum off but that’s what needs to happen so that you can investigate and replace. Search for videos on how to adjust classic stang rear brakes…this will save you hours of time.
This is slick but... something I believe that isn't addressed. The E-brake solenoids need to be isolated to work while the transmission is in neutral or park. If the driver or passenger, hits the button while the vehicle is in gear, bad things may happen.
Or another idea is I have a GPS potentiometer…I could tie into that. It reduces amperage based on speed. That still may not address what you’re talking about with the vehicle in gear though.
Great video! Have one question? That center bump, did you cut a hole and replace the sheet metal to make it stronger? Mine was welded but it hasn't held on too well. Hope to hear back from ya! Keep up the good work
For the cables fraying where you cut them, you can use a propane torch and silver solder them. Just watch the heat carefully so the heat up the cable doesn't melt the inner sleeve on the sheath.
Nice setup, simple and cheap, just my style. It’s more of a parking brake than emergency brake. Engaging while driving will likely cause lock up and result in a skid. I lost all brakes in a modern vehicle a few years ago in traffic. The e-brake handle allowed me to stop without skidding, otherwise I would have plowed into stopped cars. I know a lot of modern vehicles have went to an electric parking brake but I don’t think I could have found the little button quick enough to avoid a collision in my situation. The chances of losing all brakes with a split reservoir master cylinder is slim but it does happen. Not sure what manufacturers are thinking with electric parking brakes. If using a system like this, an easily accessible potentiometer that would allow gradual braking pressure would be good. Might need a different controller that can accepts a potentiometer. Maybe install a potentiometer on the brake pedal and when the parking braking switch is activated, application of the brake pedal would modulate how hard the actuator pulls the cable. Installing an electric brake on a vehicle with a single pot master isn’t a good idea as the electric brake is the redundant system and it will lock up the wheel is applied at full force. Not saying anybody shouldn’t install these but it’s something to think about. I have SN95 mustang rear brakes on my 65 that I adapted to the factory emergency brake cable. If I had no other choice, I would use an electric system. With a 4 speed, gotta have a good parking brake.
I have a 68 and am looking for E-e brake options, great work! I would have to change it up slightly as it looks where you put the actuators is where the sub-frame connectors are on the frame. I'm assuming that the actuators stay in the activated position when the key is off, but needs key on to move?? What is the rear brake set up and what rear is that? I have an 8.8 from an explorer.
Perhaps you could tie into the subframe connectors as there likely added strength there? No residual draw when key off. Needs key on to loosen. 9inch rear with Mustang Steve conversion brackets to s197 brakes