My old faithful friend of 10 yrs Mr Coffee 5 cup coffee maker just stopped working after 10 yrs. A big lost for me to say the least. After checking around to see if I could savage my friend, I figured by the time I disassemble, diagnose the issue, run around town looking for parts or the internet, pay for shipping or gas, then spend time assembling....I came to the conclusion it’s best to simply pay $28 or $30 for a new 5 cup Mr Coffee. Done. I ain’t gonna make a career out of replacing parts in a $30 coffee maker and my time is at a premium. I’d rather buy new, make a coffee of coffee and move on to the next thing and enjoy my life at whatever time left God has allocated to me. Have a good day. I appreciate the video nonetheless.
Dear Julius Caesar, Thank you for all your contributions to mankind. I respectfully want to point out that I could have fixed 3 Mr.Coffee's during the premium time you spent writing your comment lol I am not saying this to antagonize you, just adding some more humor :-) Have a nice day!
@@philliplviana I tried but noticed the screws are not either flat head or Phillips. The screw heads have two notches and small nipple in the middle. I don’t have that kind screwdriver. You you happen to know what screws driver I need to open the stupid thing?
@@philliplviana yeah you would think they’re regular screws but they’re not. They made it so you can’t unscrew the bottom to get to the components. Either it was made intentionally that way to keep from fixing it yourself or to keep you from risk of a fire.
@@philliplviana Right on point. But at some earlier point in a person's life, he or she had to get over the learning curve in order to make it seem simple, rather than frightening and confusing.
Phil, You may want to update the video to cover conditions of the melting point of the solder used. The thermal fuses are designed to blow at 216 deg C in the coffee maker i have. Most common solders melt below or around this temp. I used slightly higher temp solder Keser K100LD which melts at 227 deg C. Problem is that the thermal fuse can be bonded (welded) to the nichrome heating elemment which gets way hotter than the 227 deg melting point. This causes the 110volt leads of the thermal fuse to sag or desolder and touch other parts in the coffee maker causing a short. I do not think any solder will withstand the temperature right at the heater element. I saw some other videos recommending crimping these but info is still lacking out there on the web.
I had exactly this issue, I found two new identical fuses at a local electronics store. I replaced them as shown and both blew out the first time I switched the pot on with just some cold water in it to test it. First one fuse blew, I replaced it with a jumper, and then the second fuse blew. So I just pulled out the fuses and replaced them with some light gauge (~24 g.) solid copper wire...a jumper across the two end points. It's working fine, but what's the danger in not using the fuses? Is the machine likely to catch fire or explode? It has always worked fine until two days ago when the original fuses, both of them, blew, and then I had the above described experience with the new fuses, so am I risking a kitchen fire by eliminating the fuses?
This gets the job done, however this guy is displaying a serious lack of knowledge which could be dangerous. 1. You DO NOT need to have the machine on, exposing mains voltage, to measure if the fuse has gone bad, use the same multimeter to measure the resistance when the unit is unplugged. this is a continuity check, simply measure the resistance across each fuse if there are two. If the meter shows 0 ohms it is good if high value then it is blown. 2. The fuse will blow if the current gets too high however that is not how they work, the important part is the temperature in this case 216F, they blow if the temperature gets too high and it is important to replace the fuse with one of the correct temperature as well as sufficient current. Unless you have some knowledge, it is very dangerous to work on any appliance when plugged in and wires exposed.
Thanks. Very helpful video. I replaced both fuses as neither of the originals were functioning and my Bella Brand Walmart coffee maker works good as new.
If you're going to work on an appliance with the power on, you should offer a warning to the viewer to be very careful so they don't get shocked. Also, you could have checked the fuses with the power turned off. This would have been the safe way to do it. Check for continuity across each fuse with you meter switched to RESISTANCE setting. If the fuse is good, you should measure zero ohms, or very close to zero. Ideally, the fuses should be removed to get the most accurate reading, but you can test it while it's still installed in the coffee maker. If you get a high resistance reading, you know the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced.
Very helpful video not pretentious. One thing I might add is to pay attention which direction the fuse goes when it was removed and replace it in the same direction there seems to be a little black area at one end of the fuse and not at the other so it is directional. Thanks for the video
One of the problems can be that the thermal switch is okay but the thermal paste between the switch and the heating element/tube is old and no longer efficient at transferring heat to the switch.
I bought a black and decker coffee pot a few years ago, and never used it. When I took it out and tried it, it turned on, but didn't heat up. I saw there was no voltage between the fusses, but didn't know that's what they were. After watching this video, I wondered if heating the fuse slightly with a lighter would fix it. I have no idea why that would work, but thought I'd try it. I heated the non-working fuse for a few seconds with the lighter, and immediately, it had continuity. The coffee pot works now.
Soldering a thermal fuse is not wise, as the heat from the soldering iron can easily blow the fuse. Next time CRIMP the connector legs to the machine. Also a blown thermal fuse in a coffeemaker is usually not an isolated malfunction, but a warning sign that something went wrong. IOW it blew for a reason. The most likely rerason is a malfunctioning ceramic thermostat (aka thermal switch) causing the heatpipe to overheat. FYI its the little white disk on your video with the red and white wires attached. It can cheaply be replaced, just make sure you order the exact same (themperature) type as the broken one.
While the video did tell me how to ID the problem, (in my case it is the round thermal switch) I do not know where to get a new one from. Amazon had one at the correct (145 Deg F) rating but it does not have the Flange. Do you know where to buy the correct one for the Mr. Coffee ? I know you can not remove the flange from the old thermal switch. Thank you