Welcome to Kersey Fabrications, your channel for 3D printing, electronics, props, and cosplay. Join me for killer prints, reviews, mods, and step-by-step guides. Unleash your creativity with accessible projects for all skill levels. Currently crafting a high-tech Iron Man suit, including an incredible heads-up display.
before you added the resin, you had the plate lower.. then it jumped cut to the plate being higher. how do i move the plate higher when im putting resin in? 11:11
I like using VSCode better. Not a huge Microsoft fan boy but they really put a lot of effort into there IDE. Anyways, thanks for a great tutorial, just what I needed! Keep up the great work.
Artillery sidewinder X1 here, with Marlin 2.1.2.1 and a version of BIGTREETECH TFT running on touch mode. Is setting the probe offset from the: Motion > Bed Leveling > Probe Z Offset menu, equally as valid as setting the offset the way you did?
I get that its hard not to use the arc reactor to use for storage but it supposed to be the power source for everything in the suit. The giga joules or whatever the movies said isn't going to happen just, if everyone adds on, there's a whole suit for chips and processors. thank you for making it open source and hope this was only taken as constructive criticism.
Ohh, I don't mind at all! I get the criticism. This was only used this way due to the limited costuming I was wearing. In the future, the computer may be in the back of the armor when I have a full suit. Thanks!
Great video !! but still new to this .Have updated using your soft/firmware .However no I have no bltouch/autolevel .Bl touch will power up and self test .I get this message through prontoface when I send command m420s SENDING:M420S Error:Failed to enable Bed Leveling Any ideas ??? huge thanks in advance
Warning trying to load that file into Arduino IDE can kill your operating system first was working. OK until it started lagging out and locked up and windows could not boot because it was missing system files I have a very high-end machine so I doubt slow hardware is the issue here.
Update I luckily backed up the system after a closer inspection when it’s opening the RAM use goes up fast till it maxed it out at 64 gigabytes and locks up don’t know how this is happening
I just got one and been following this video to set up (and the beginners one by lerdge too)I'm stuck on step 7, I keep setting the z axis correctly and the sensor but when I home it , the z axis rises twice and won't lower again to where I adjusted ot to so when I try to print the nozzle is way too hight, I've been trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong and rewatching the video, and still having the same problem, can any of you help me please thanks
Having an issue with an Ender 5 plus. I recently bought a 4.2.7 board. Installed it after watching so many videos and reading documents and all connections are in. flashed the screen thats all good. however plugging in the board to the pc the screen keeps flashing on and off when the usb connects to the pc, then when i turn on the main power of the printer it sits at the loading screen and the bar doesn't fill at all. also the bed gets hot for no reason at all. running the arduino doesn't connect to the printer at all however the pc sees that its using COM 4
Please help, My Ender 5 plus just stops, doesn't matter the slicer, memory card, or file. Full stop. The lcd says temps are at the set print temps but cool to the touch. All motors are not moving(X,Y,Z steppers and the extruder) When I try to cancel the print, it freezes the printer. Its always at the X/Y 0,0 coordinate. I can auto-home, level the bed and heat up the hot end no problem. I tried your firmware updates and nothing helped. Any Idea what this could be?
@@kerseyfabs I was printing a 72 hour print, it did 97 percent of the print and just stopped. I thought the file was bad so i cut it in mesh mixer to print the remainder and it froze printing the raft. I then tried a completely different file that I sliced months ago and it doesnt even finish the raft, stopping at 0,0 with the issue of no errors displayed. I did notice a bin file on the drive that wasnt there before I printed. Update, I bought 4 brand new sd cards, the issue has not presented itself since using new cards.
Question: 1st time 3D printer owners here, so glad to have found your channel! Still working on installing it. Thank you for the BLTouch firmware! It was installed correctly. However the language keeps switching to Chinese after switching the printer off. Is there a more permanent solution to keep it in English?
@@kerseyfabs trying different solutions we could find online, the screen is now stuck, and will only respond if you click on settings, everything else is frozen.
Thanks for the concern and advice! This is my garage. I routinely open the garage door if the fumes are an issue. I also have an air filtration unit installed near the ceiling. Take care!
For the cleaner, I would think that you could let the dirty contents settle to the bottom, drain off the dirty contents on, clean the dirty contents, and then put the clean contents back into the tank. If you do it regularly, you should be able to use UV lamps to clean most of it. Just a thought. P.S. A centrifuge might help too. :)
You are doing a great job on showing resin printing, but as you mentioned - not for the feint of heart. I don't need the resolution or the hassle of resin, but like to keep informed as to the advances.
Anyone else have big problems with the x-axis shifting layers? There's a lot of it on reddit but on youtube everything seems fine. Mine is impossible to get a useful print from. $900 IN THE TRASHBIN. Support from the company is nonexistent.
Very cool. I've been wanting to do this to to my ender 5 pro and this series has fully prepared me to do this. thank you. Also, is it possible to 3d printe th idlers?
I think it would be cool to enable voice recognition and have a secretary like Jarvis respond. And how about putting Object detection on the screen when you forward a voice command?
wondering, as i am having more than a few issues with this make and model of printer, if you know of any support groups? i have only attempted 15 or so prints since purchase nearly 3 years ago, only 2 have come off the bed being even close to what i designed. filliment feeding or overheating issues, the bed itself rocks in place under the extruder, based on that its near impossible to level; just wondering what everyone did with there printer after the reviews were done.
Im honestly having the worst time trying to get firmware stuff done on marlin even trying to get your binaries to work on the skr mini E3. I was following the tutorial on your other videos but somehow Im getting stuck. Clearly an issue between chair and keyboard lol. but help would be greatly appreciated. Its all that darn BL touch POS thats giving me trouble.
@@kerseyfabs awesome. Basically it flips out and says unable to level bed. I bought a new cable and tried to verify pin/cable order for it. Maybe I have something wrong with that. Might be worth doing a segment on the cable order on the back of the BL touch because all the wire colors are different depending on what cable you purchase for it.
@@kerseyfabs Tried it on two different laptop and a desktop all windows machines, all froze up at different points in the folder loading process, one laptop has been attempting to load for over 20 hours.
I'm really sorry to hear that. It's hard for me to debug random issues with software though. I do my best to just provide straight-forward instructions.
When does the reset occur? I haven't seen this problem I believe. You could connect to the printer over USB and manually run 'M500' to save the setting. You can also configure it manually with 'M851 Z1.2' where '1.2' is the offset and then 'M500'.
@@kerseyfabs it resets when I go to print it adds more space in between the bed and the nozzle from what I set previously is there a save setting button on the print it self?
@kerseyfabs - do you have a recommendation for extruder / print head upgrades? Really want to focus on PETG - I do keep having slippage in feeding after about 8-10 layers… which results in under extrusion and often fails or weak parts.
I was also curious if you have ever heard of the Jyers firmware for the ender v2? If you have, Is there any other firmware available like that for the Ender 5 plus? I am interested in maybe finding a better firmware for the ender 5 plus. Do you know of any other firmware that gives more options? I guess I could have just started by asking that! LOL
I purchased an ender 5 plus from my buddy. It was sitting in his closet, brand new, still in the box for about 3 or 4 years. Anyway, I set it up and ran it on the firmware that was on it. So, it was old firmware but it worked for me...Until it didn't. lol! It started dropping the bed like 100mm and then try to automatic bed level. I figured the firmware was bad and decided to change it. I added the DWIN file to the screen and that's when all hell broke loose! I tried to update the firmware using the slicer and it wasn't reading it. I am guessing after watching your video that it was not a data cable, however, it was the blue cable that came with the printer...so I don't know. Anyway, I am going to try and do it all over again and try ordering a data cable from Amazon as well as use the files you provided. By the way, When I updated the screen firmware with that DWIN file, I remember seeing all the images load. It also said end just like yours did. When I turned it off and back on, I just get this: 19 0 both in the bottom left and right corners of the screen and nothing else. It doesn't do anything. It just displays that. Any suggestions? I appreciate you and all your help!
I've just given my Ender 5 Plus a custom print head that has an E3D v6 hotend. Now that it's all wired I can't get it up to temp - setting it to go to 250C it slowly goes up to around 130C than says heating failed bla bla bla. Doing a PID tune via pronterface it again slowly goes up to around the same temperature, than the temp reading jumps over 350C and the autotune stops. I think I just need to somehow tell the printer in the firmware what it now has to deal with, I just don't know how. P. S. it's running a silent board and your firmware at the moment
I've already figured it out. The thermistor type has to be changed to 5 in the firmware, wich corresponds to the thermistor used in the E3D v6 hotend. I wouldn't have gotten here without your video though, so thank you very much!
