I sure wish that TSO offered a set with the 20” and 30” rails. I can’t even find the 30” rails for sale separately on their website. I do like the fact that the scales have both metric and imperial. Seems ridiculous that Festool and Woodpecker can’t do that. Very informative video, thanks for posting.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thanks, yeah I searched around a bit more and figured out that I could buy the set with the 30” T-track and add the 20” T-tracks. When order I’ll definitely use your link.
We used to build 8' long versions of these from 2x6 with a crew I worked with building a camp. We could lay out a whole roof of rafters and cut cut cut. You don't even need the top 2x in your video. There not the nicest sawhorse I ever saw, but the definitely do the job
@@balenabros3246 awesome. And thank you for your support. My affiliate link is in the description box but I’ll paste it here for you as well. Just click this link and it will take you straight to my affiliate page tsoproducts.com/?ref=Scolaro
@@smileyhomeimprovementsjohn6165 1.30 hours???? These literally take 10 minutes(for two). I wasn’t joking. And that’s with me explaining how to do it. I can crank out 10 of these in 1.30 hours. If you cut all your parts with a stop block, then just screw them together the way I show you, it’s like 5 minutes a horse. If i used my framing nailer, it would be 3 minutes.
Do you ever stain wood? If so, do you have a table or something that you stain on? I’ve read Formica makes it easy to clean the stain off. I use cardboard boxes right now but looking to see if I find something better. I do a lot of staining. Different colors. So it’s a pain to find a clean space to stain.
@@CustomWoodWorkDecorI do stain grade work all the time. Surprised you haven’t seen that in any of my previous videos. I buy rolls of builders paper, roll it over my work table then when I’m done staining, I throw away the piece I used.
Hey Anthony, thanks for the video. I just did 3 closets this way, but used 3/4" plywood for the shelves and nailed them to the cleats with 1 1/2" brads (its a rental). What pouch/holster is that? thanks -Jeff
I'm adding a third, connected so they're long ways front to back. Full sheet breakdowns are a snap. I'm doing way more on my MFT(s) than on my table saw these days.
Two mft”s!! $$, I’m dying for just one. Question, have for is the mft table from that back wall? How deep of crosscut capacity can you get with this set up? At least 24”? Thanks man.
@@giovannymedina3984 The MFT/3 comes with the fence system and stop block for repeatable cuts. Length wise I believe max cut is about 50”. Max width is 27”.
At what point do you switch from the 10-inch bandsaw to the hefty 14-inch. Is cutting 2-ft and 3-ft hardwood something you need your upgraded bandsaw or could that be handled with the 10-inch. Also, does the number of boards factor in as well? Do you start off with the 10-inch or is the level of difficulty the same for both?
@@CrossoverManiac I have a video where I installed a riser block on this bandsaw to go from a 10” to a 14” resaw capacity. This allows you to start off with a 10” bandsaw if you’re not resawing wide boards. Then later if you need to upgrade, you don’t have to buy a whole new and more expensive saw.
The widest 1x material I’ve cut was 1x8’s and it was fine because of the clamp and I have the crown stops which can also be used as a wider support on the wings.
@@CustomWoodWorkDecor in my opinion, if you’re cutting mostly just 1x12 materials, there are much cheaper saws out there to do it with. The Kapex is a very fine finish saw that is more suited for molding, trim and cabinetry. It’s super expensive with and with the UG stand, it’s pretty outrageous actually. I don’t know if you’re a professional or hobbyist, but as a professional, I can’t recommend this saw enough for the type of work I do. However if you’re not a pro, you can get amazing quality miter saws for less than half the price. But always buy what you need and can afford. You have to be happy. Me personally, I don’t really cut any boards over 6-8 inches wide on a miter saw, because the further out the miter saw travels, the less accurate and square the cut. I make those cuts on my sliding crosscut table saw or MFT table with a track saw.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 I make alot of personalized items for my home business like stove covers, wall name signs, etc. mitered boxes. I was just reading that the accuracy is second to none. Eventually I want to move into kitchen cabinets, walk in closets.
@@CustomWoodWorkDecor I’ve never had a better miter saw in my life, and I’ve been through many saws. I’ve had the Kapex now for almost 4 years and yes it’s still as accurate as day one. I have affiliate links in the description box for the Kapex and stand if you do decide to purchase it.
@@brianwright1413 that’s a Paulk bench, I have a video on building it. Here’s the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mcbnf7lGqF8.htmlsi=84Bcgx5NieAGb6ki
@@DontJudasMe really? Because after more than 7 years, the client’s still have them in the same exact spot I installed them. And yes, they are still strong as ever.
I got some fibers of the lambs wool in my finish, did you have that problem? I did try to remove most of the fibers with twizzers and plan on sanding when it completely dries, I'm going with 24 hrs. Are you rinsing the lambs wool out in mineral spirits after your application? I'm hoping after that first coat, the brush won't do that again. I also saw some streaking in the last few hours. Any tips are appreciated. Your piece looked amazing and I was tired of struggling with a 40 dollar expensive brush. My frustration is that this isn't my first rodeo with oil polyurethane. I've had a lot of success with finishing boards. The difference is, this is a large table. Thank you for responding. 😊
@@msmtnsunny958 I use painters tape to remove all the fuzz before application. After each coat, I put a piece of plastic wrap it until the next coat. I also slightly thin down the poly with mineral spirits so it becomes easier to apply without any streaking.
Please move the tnuts to the opposite side of the plywood from the saw! Tnuts are meant to pull against the bolt! The first time you pick up the whole unit with the mitre saw, the tnuts while come out!
Anthony, Would you ever spray a coat of shellac before 1-2 coats of that Enduro 1K poly? I saw someone post that they like doing it for drawer bottoms, but others have advised that the shellac can crack over time. Just curious if there's any benefit or if the durability of multiple poly coats is more than adequate. Also, any reason you use HVLP versus air assisted airless?
@@MadLadsAnonymous I don’t think I’ve ever sprayed poly or anything over shellac, but shellac makes a sander sealer that can be applied before you spray your topcoat. Maybe that’s what they are using. The reason I spray clears with an hvlp is because it’s much much cheaper than air assisted airless but I use airless for paint finishes.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thanks so much! Our future reno plans are inspiring me to paint our cabinets and doors myself. Already had bad experiences with local contractors.
Unfortunately this video was done many years ago and I no longer have this cut list. I can give you the exact dimensions next time I’m in my shop. Just let me know if you want the measurements in imperial or metric.
@@srairmand usually during installs with any finish carpentry and cabinets/built-ins, there’s also touch ups to be done. Sometimes I do them if the client have the paint and I have the joint compound(if needed) the. I’ll do it. But most of the time the client or the painter will touch up. Sometimes intentional holes even have to be made to make things fit.
Hi Anthony just a question about festool domino they say when you adjusting domino mortise with the buttons on the machine you should adjust them with the domino on ,running. Does it damage the domino machine.? Hey Anthony I brought that festool stm 1800 workbench I saw you had one. It’s very nice to use.
@@shanehertzog5812 hi, yes with the domino df500, you have to switch Mortise sizes when the machine is running, or it damages the motor. With the larger df700, you switch Mortise sizes with the machine off.
@@shanehertzog5812 hi, about 4 years ago, I had the dewalt track saw. I thought it was okay but the plunge motion of the saw was very awkward and I found the tracks to be flimsy and not straight. I don’t know if they have made any upgrades to fix those problems since 4 years ago.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 hi Anthony I would say they have fixed problems with the Dewalt’s tracksaw i brought the tso parallel guide system it has very nice design best I have seen .i like your workbench.Anthony bench dogs have a new new Dewalt square for Dewalt track saw.
Do you know if the Festool FS-WA/90 is identical to the TSO GRS-16 PE v2? Trying to work out if the Festool one will fit the newer (red) Milwaukee tracks as where I am (UK) the TSO is back order only with an ETA of 12 weeks and I don’t really want to wait until Christmas.
@@JameysVideos the piece that slides into the bottom of the rail on the TSO is completely different from the festool one. As far as I know, the festool guide rail is not compatible with the Milwaukee track. TSO made on specifically to fit that new rail.
Couple questions lol.. What was the big Harvey machine behind the dust extractor? which sander is that? Why not a festool? Lastly, what do you do about the glue squeeze out on the inside of miters? I wipe it with a damp rag but it stains nasty. Thanks
@@CustomWoodWorkDecor that was the Harvey g700 dust collector. The sander is a Mirka, I’ve had it for years before I switched everything over to Festool and it still works great and ranks right up there with Festool, so I’ll keep it until it burns out. The glue, with a painted project, glue squeeze out that is wiped with a damp rag doesn’t leave any traces after finishing. Stained projects you have to be more careful with, however if you clean up the squeeze out quickly and make sure you sand it properly, then you shouldn’t have a problem. But don’t over glue to the point of either, making a mess with squeeze out is hard to hide at any level. Also on darker stains, titebond makes a dark glue that hides very well.
great video! I am looking at this bandsaw and this should solve all my needs for occasional resaws. Was 1hp enough for the resaw? did it bog down during this cherry?
@@ashutoshsrivastava303 it was enough and did not big down, and I was using a 1” resaw blade which helped, however a higher horsepower bandsaw would be more suitable for constant resawing.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thanks for the reply! Do just do occasional resaw. Currently resaw a 5in white oak on a 1/3hp bandsaw which was painful so I hope this would fare better.
