You may have issues with them stupid sensors on the breaks alot people do with these kits! Don't know why they even use these they don't on manufactured ebikes
The Bafang mid-drive is good. It goes straight through the bottom bracket hole; great design! But if you can get hold of a cheap Kona Process 134, it's a good bike for conversion. Just use all the Bafang kit; it comes as a package with a Bafang Samsung battery and charger! These non-branded batteries and chargers scare the heck out of me!
Just bite the bug and buy one honestly totally different feel with the new geometry and alot safer! I had one these GTs years ago i know its not the best ride i went and boght a Bosch emtb with the smart system after watching alot these amd then getting a shot on someone's home mader and a real ebike the difference was a no brainer totally different
$693.56, to be precise. I'll update the description. I may have mentioned it in the video somewhere, but I forget where. I ordered it with one of the battery options that came with it. Thanks for watching!
You should be able to get a USB connector to reprogram your PAS levels so that you've got better control at each level. Changing the power curves I believe.
Thank you. I am planning on doing that soon. That is the next step and I will make a quick video about it. I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching.
I watched a few YT vids and read some forums only to notice people were using the Bafang ekit without many problems. I just looked it up on Amazon and ordered it from there. I think the kit was around $275 and the battery came with it for a total around $700 or so here in 2024. Thanks for watching!!
You're welcome! I'm glad to help. I watched a few vids before, and didn't understand it either. I feel your pain! Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I do! Morning calf cramps are hitting me lately, so I'm drinking more water and doing full-body stretches more often, usually earlier at the gym during the day, then before bed at night. Crazy how my calves can cramp up when I first move them right after I wake up in the mornings. Thank you for the advice and the compliment! I appreciate it a ton.
The chargers are very delicate aka cheaply made if you move them when its on they can break the insides and little bits of plastic damage the internals of it be careful
Good to know. Thank you. I will be very careful with it in the future. It definitely feels very light and cheap. I'll research better chargers at some point.
It has allways like this also big ballast' for big hps lamps it is the same thing if they get the slightest chok / when warm after use they break inside
That's pretty cool. They say to keep the battery cool with plenty of air flow so hopefully sitting on it won't be too hot. That motor must be a beast compared to mine. I think that's what some of those electric dirt bikes have. Saw one go up that steep incline easily the other day. I was in awe.
Super-interesting topic, and I really wanted to, but the constant cutting made it physically uncomfortable for me to watch your video. (Example: Around 7:50 when you talk about connectors, there's something like 5 cuts in just a couple of seconds.) Guess I'm just getting old... :-/
Haha. You think you're getting old? I'll say a word, then a minute passes, then I'll say a few more words, then another minute passes, then I'll finish the sentence, but I'll studder 4x in the sentence. I can barely watch my own footage back like that, so I was just chopping out any and all "nothing" parts due to my own problem with not speaking very well and thoroughly yet. I'm working on it, but I appreciate the comment. I'll try to be much smoother in future videos with speaking so there won't be a need for so many cuts. It was a lot of just staring at the bike with nothing going on in many of those moments. It would have been a very long video if I kept em all in. Super helpful comment, though. I'm a progress at work, first year making vids really. Thanks for your interest!
Felt like I would have smashed it into a log or rock since I pass over so many. Sorta wanted to play it safe for my first build, but I am very curious about those motors and I'd love to install one on something, someday. Thanks for the comment, though.
@@iforgotilikebikes8543 Better feedback from pedaling, regardless of if you have a torque or a cadence sensor. Your center of mass is also not offset by the weight of a hub motor. Also it lets you run gears rather than being stuck at a single speed of the hub motor, you'll be ghost pedaling a lot more if you go top speed. I upgraded from a 1000W direct-drive rear hub motor to a Bafang BBS02 750W Mid-Drive and it's like night and day. Installation is also way easier due to the bafang having standardised (and waterproof) HiGO connectors. The only upside to a direct-drive style hub motor is being able to regenerate power when you brake. (you can still use e-brake cutoff on other styles of motors but it won't add charge to your battery). Also without a torque arm your hub motor puts wear on your bike's dropouts as compared to the mid drive wearing your drivetrain which is easier to replace and with maintenance should last a long time.
I dropped the SRAM Eagle into it. I'll post the link. I'm sure you could build a drivetrain for cheaper but I chose this path and have been very happy with it so far. Eagle groupset specs are here: www.sram.com/en/sram/models/gs-nx-1-a1
My new 5 month old bike skips on the smallest cog? Judging by many of the comments here...stiff chain link or something? I haven't lubed the chain since I bought it. EDIT: Issue seems for me that several chain links had gone stiff. I hadn't oiled the chain since purchase 5 months ago. There were minor rust sections and raised links you could see from sideways. It was slipping mainly on the smallest cog I suppose because the smallest cog has the least surface area so when those seized and raised chain links went around it they just did not fit snug, whereas on the larger cogs with more surface area that wasn't so much a problem. I figured this out and fixed it myself before I had to go cap in hand to the bike shop. So...oil your chain kids.
Thanks for the vid. I have the same headset. The black washers are a pain . I think the larger one goes on top but not sure . The Instruction manual doesn’t mention them
Hey. Was just chuckling to myself, thinking "If you are lucky it's a Japanese made Bianchi". I'm sure it is. I have a 1990's manganese-alloy Peugeot, everything is threaded French/ Italian. So bottom bracket and headset ate a pain.
if cassette teeth are worn, do not replace it, reshape teeth and save money from new cassette, who wants to watch how:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AhR02NmQxF4.htmlsi=X7O21ZX2gCR9uRSl
Even I can't believe how many people watched this by now. lol. I even looked up a few chain slipping vids before but sorta noticed no one had a crappy old odoro head cam to tape onto the pole, so I did! haha. Thanks for watching even if you got nothing out of it.
Had the same issue after replacing new chain and new cassette on a 10 speed rear. Specifically the chain was bouncing between the 10th (hardest) and 9th cogs. Ended up being my rear derailleur was slightly bent that I must have knocked when taking the rear wheel off. Anyhow went to the LBS and the mechanic said within 5 secs just eyeballing my RD it would be the problem, and so it was. I guess like a lot of guys on this thread you think you know how to fix most things, and it’s times like these that bring you back to reality 😎
I hear you. I made sure my chain line and RD were as straight as humanly possible with my eyes long before this problem happened. I knew about it, but the RD seemed fine. Luckily, someone else's comment worked for me! This journey is all about learning through screwing up and breaking stuff, for me, that is.
It looks like one of the teeth on the smallest cog is partly damaged ( 2:56), and your entire cassette looks worn down. Pretty sure, it is the problem. New cassette and new chain would solve it.
Based on my experience, if the chain is new, the most common cause is chain with stiff link. You can easily find the stiff link when you reverse the pedaling direction. Just loosen the stiff link. Another is worn out cog.
@@alo0ann If you find the stiff link, lubricate it, try to bend it sideways, both directions and work it and repeat as necessary. If that doesn't work, you can use a right size flat head screwdriver. Place the head between the plates and twist it to open it up a bit.
I‘ve the same problem. Originally my bike was a 3x9 Slx transmission and it slip gears. I converted to a 1x9 using the same cranks, new cassette, new chain, new chainring and it still slips gears in the smallest cogs. I’ve checked the chain line and put washers to correct the angle since the cranks are not designed to work in a one-by setup, and it looks fairly ok. I don't have any idea what is happening, since the original configuration happened either. Can anyone give any advice of how to solve it pls 😭
It's usually caused by a new chain on a badly worn cassette (even moderately worn cassette can cause problems)/new cassette on a worn chain. Mixing new and worn drivetrain components do not go along well. The chain and the cog do not fit when one is worn, and when you pedal hard, the chain tends to go over the top of the cassette teeth, slips, and falls on the next valley of the cassette, and the cycle repeats...the solution for that is to replace the worn part with a new one...
Having this issue since last week, one of the spokes broke off of my rear wheel, so i ordered a replacement wheel (came with a pre-installed shimano cassette), and the chain slips every few links it seems, virtually unrideable. Just saw your comment, and i'm going to try a new chain, hoping this fixes it!
@@johnrefecheck that the rear derailleur is not bent or misaligned, and the chainrings upfront are not worn out..also check that the derailleur jockey wheels are not worn out as well ..
I ended up getting a shimano hyperglide chain, and it works perfectly. I'm assuming my old chain was stretched from use, and just didn't want to connect properly with the new cassette 👍 works fine now, yay.
Yeah, man! Replacing both together totally worked for me. I should have done that first but was playing the "why replace it because it looks fine" angle, which failed. lol
@@mellow2879 I had this problem after replacing the chain.I took chain off and compared it to old one and found new chain was three full links longer.I removed them and problem solved.Thanks.
@@surendharm3566 im having the same issue. Im using a brand new shimano groupset. The issue had been there already and i thought changing everything would fix it but even with compatible chains cassette and crank, it still slips in the smallest and the next one
Ahahahahahaha! Thanks, man! Talk about a time-consuming challenge! Would it be worth it? Who knows! Great idea though. I had to search the MTB forums looking for pictures and info of what people used and I did the same after researching a ton. I wanna see your 2001 6.0! My bike came out pretty heavy at about 38 lbs or so. I didn't take into account weight very much. Perhaps I may in the future.
I have this exact issue as well. I have a brand new chain ( KNC generic ) and Shimano Ultegra components Tried new casette - same issue. Tried new casette, different wheel - same Issue Fiddled with B-screw - same issue Shifting is crisp and clean and indexed correctly. It does not change gear, it literally just seems to pull over the sprocket under load. It's the most frustrating problem ever. Given the process of elimination above I can assume only 2 issues. Either the frame is flexing to a point where alignment is an issue ( doubt it, Trek Madone 5.2 - bulletproof ) or the rear derailleur is misaligned / bent / not wrapping around enough ( weak spring ) Gonna investigate the latter and will give feedback
That's super annoying! How's your chainline looking? Definitely check your angles of your derailleur. Hopefully you figured it out by now. Sorry for the late reply.
@@fahadiqbal6019 - I fixed it by replacing my chainrings. Turns out they were totally worn. Only noticed it when comparing to the new one, but now its like a new bike. I had to get a tiagra 10spd double 53/36 because A. Its a 10spd and B. Shimano has absolutely no stock in SA since covid. But its looks great and works even better! And was less than half the price of ultegra!
Absolutely. I needed a new cassette so I bought one and no more slipping at all. I think the slight wear on the cassette is the culprit even if you don't notice any by eye. Try installing a new cassette and let me know how it worked out for ya.
@Jack Ophelott Make sure your chainline is as straight as possible. My chain was slipping as I was pedaling backwards until I moved my BB over a bit to the right and the chainline was perfect which solved my problem. Hopefully you figure it out.
